London Fashion Week AW24: Talent Talks As Creativity Is Set To Shine

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London Fashion Week turns 40 this year. Since 1984, it's been the definitive platform for fashion in the United Kingdom, garnering an enduring reputation for being the world's most dynamic style capital and the most steadfast incubator for emerging design talent.

The British Fashion Council also turns 40 in 2024, and though its plans are said to pull focus to the anniversaries in September for the spring/summer 2025 shows, there's much to consider, anticipate and no doubt applaud coming our way for the soon-come autumn/winter 2024 shows, running from Friday 16 to Monday 19, February.

Saturday feels especially prodigious. The day begins with Marco Capaldo's 16Arlington at 11, before moving through the likes of Roksanda, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Labrum, Erdem and Ahluwalia, all of whom are amongst those making it worthwhile for the fashion set to come into town on a Saturday, and then some.

'This season is going to look particularly exciting because of the lineup of shows,' says Caroline Rush, chief executive of The British Fashion Council. 'We continue to be this creative capital and a hotbed of innovation. Last year we celebrated 30 years of New Gen and I think that the legacy of that is that it's put it even higher on everybody's agenda in terms of new talent to watch.’

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Many of those designers that receive the New Gen bursary, including the opportunity for a free show venue at The Old Selfridges Hotel, will show on Friday, making for a dynamic line-up of emerging designers including Chet Lo, Sinead O’Dwyer, Fashion East and Tolu Coker.

Coker’s collections have fast become of note on the London scene, known for her ability to weave storytelling into pieces that are particularly strong on silhouette.

‘When I create, I think about the connection people have to the clothes,’ the designer tells ELLE UK ahead of her Friday evening show. ‘From the quality of it, through to the story behind it. There's a connection beyond just the physical garment itself. Every collection is an extension of a story I’m trying to tell, based on experiences I’ve had or people who I’ve been able to spend time with.’