I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
(so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
down quickly so I can get on with that.

The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
use.

I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347

which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
job would be far beyond it though.

Other options:

Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
productivity?

Reciprocating saw - I don't have one, but I could use it elsewhere if it'll
do the job (although the pruning saw is a poor man's substitute for cutting
pipes and similar)

Axe - for splitting it vertically. I'm not sure how well that's going to
work? Wouldn't it need a very large axe? (and I'm quite attached to my feet)

First fix wood saw - likely to get stuck often?

Angle grinder - would be 'interesting'

Some other method?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Theo

On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.
>
> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>
> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
> job would be far beyond it though.
>
> Other options:
>
> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
> productivity?

In the past I've found a bow saw suitable for this type of application
possible with a blade designed for wet/green wood. To stop the saw being
trapped consider banging in a small wedge into the edge of the cut as
you get deeper in.

wood splitting grenade?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-wood-grenade-4-way-log-splitter-1-6kg/51334
Demonstration
https://youtu.be/AKEEtnXlC0w?t=117

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 27 Aug 2023 20:00:41 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:

>On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
>> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
>> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
>> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
>> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
>> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>>
>> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
>> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
>> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
>> use.
>>
>> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
>> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>>
>> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
>> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
>> job would be far beyond it though.
>>
>> Other options:
>>
>> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
>> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
>> productivity?
>
>
>In the past I've found a bow saw suitable for this type of application
>possible with a blade designed for wet/green wood. To stop the saw being
>trapped consider banging in a small wedge into the edge of the cut as
>you get deeper in.
>
>wood splitting grenade?
>https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-wood-grenade-4-way-log-splitter-1-6kg/51334
>Demonstration
>https://youtu.be/AKEEtnXlC0w?t=117

+1 to all that Alan said, although an 18" diameter trunk isn't going
to allow much to-and-fro with a bow saw when your cut start to reach
the centre of the trunk. Get the biggest bow saw you can find. Also,
as an alternative to a wedge to keep the cut open, try pulling the
trunk away from the cut with a strong rope fixed someway up so that it
levers the cut open.

In addition to the saw, you might find it worth drilling into the
trunk radially all round with say a spade drill to remove a lot of the
wood before cutting it with the bow saw. That way it involves less
effort on your part because the drill does a lot of the work before
you start sawing.

--
Chris

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.
>

Why would you not want a chainsaw? Surely this is the perfect excuse to buy
one.

Plenty of “adequate” safety gear on ebay. I find being petrified of losing
a limb works well towards keeping me safe. ;-)

Everyone needs a chainsaw in their lives.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

In article
<1656008020.714862102.800965.tim.downie-gmail.com@news.individual.net>,
Tim+ <tim.downie@gmail.com> wrote:
> Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
> > I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before
> > stump grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some
> > months ago (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as
> > the roots are attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I
> > want to cut them down quickly so I can get on with that.
> >
> > The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> > slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> > really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what
> > else to use.
> >

> Why would you not want a chainsaw? Surely this is the perfect excuse to
> buy one.

> Plenty of "adequate" safety gear on ebay. I find being petrified of
> losing a limb works well towards keeping me safe. ;-)

> Everyone needs a chainsaw in their lives.

> Tim

Indeed, I have 4!" A big mains one; a small mains on on a long pole; a
small batttery one on a long pole and the newest - a small battery one.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.

Most people with stump grinders will have chainsaws or did you intend to
DIY the grinding?

Hiring chainsaws became expensive once HSE got involved, requiring PPE
and a new chain being part of the package.

When I grind stumps I do a fair bit of excavation and preparation
(hollowing out) with a chainsaw first because my grinder is only 5hp and
hard work. I also sharpen it with a diamond disc fairly frequently.

On 8/27/2023 2:06 PM, Theo wrote:
> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.
>
> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>
> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
> job would be far beyond it though.
>
> Other options:
>
> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
> productivity?
>
> Reciprocating saw - I don't have one, but I could use it elsewhere if it'll
> do the job (although the pruning saw is a poor man's substitute for cutting
> pipes and similar)
>
> Axe - for splitting it vertically. I'm not sure how well that's going to
> work? Wouldn't it need a very large axe? (and I'm quite attached to my feet)
>
> First fix wood saw - likely to get stuck often?
>
> Angle grinder - would be 'interesting'
>
> Some other method?
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Theo
>

I left maybe six inches to a foot, on mine, and let the stump grinder
guy cut it off.

You do not want to get your own chainsaw, into dirt or sand.
That is very hard on the chain and the bar. This is why, on
your last cut on the trunk, you leave a bit of space to grade.

What you don't do, is leave six feet of trunk on the thing.
That's too much, and the stump grinder guy does not have a
helper and he can't lift or work heavy loads.

But as long as you're down to six inches to a foot, it's
his job to use his chainsaw to prepare the work site for
the tracked grinder. The grinder is heavy and built like a tank.
It relies on ballasting, to behave with civility under load.

You don't want a trunk, which is green and springy looking.
But after a tree has been dead for a few months, the colour
goes out of it, and the stump grinder will work just fine.
The stump grinder is not a sofa queen. It does the job.

*******

You can rent chainsaws by the hour. A half day rental you could
do as much puttering around as you would like.

There is a lot to know about chainsaws. Ask the guy who is missing
two fingers, what the rules are.

When you are getting an estimate for a stump grinding, the
estimator can eyeball the job and tell you if any of the
conditions are not right. For example, if the terrain is
unsuited (excessive terrain slope), they'll just tell you they
can't do it. If they don't like the six foot of trunk you left
on there, they'll tell you what their requirements are.

But I wasn't putting my chainsaw in the muck, and the guy
did not complain or look concerned about prepping the trunk.

Summary: The way I looked at it, I'm paying for the job, the estimator
inspected it, and I'm just going to sit back and watch.
Making it pretty is nice, but at some point you have to
let it go. I wanted to leave enough material, so that if
the guy needed to make a cut, he could make the cut safely.
If you leave a sliver he needs to clear, that's not nice.
There should be enough material, so he can do an "honest" cut.

Paul

I was just thinking on US sites they seem to go to explosives very quickly.
They just like big bangs though. This is the problem with conifers when they
get out of hand, not easy to remove. Brian

--

--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
briang1@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"alan_m" <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote in message
news:kl1kqoFoeriU1@mid.individual.net...
> On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
>> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
>> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months
>> ago
>> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
>> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
>> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>>
>> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
>> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
>> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else
>> to
>> use.
>>
>> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
>> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>>
>> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
>> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think
>> this
>> job would be far beyond it though.
>>
>> Other options:
>>
>> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
>> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
>> productivity?
>
>
> In the past I've found a bow saw suitable for this type of application
> possible with a blade designed for wet/green wood. To stop the saw being
> trapped consider banging in a small wedge into the edge of the cut as you
> get deeper in.
>
> wood splitting grenade?
> https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-wood-grenade-4-way-log-splitter-1-6kg/51334
> Demonstration
> https://youtu.be/AKEEtnXlC0w?t=117
>
> --
> mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
>

ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:
> On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
> > The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> > slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> > really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what
> > else to use.
>
>
> Most people with stump grinders will have chainsaws or did you intend to
> DIY the grinding?

DIY with hire of the grinder. Or is that not a good idea?

I have a quote for about £500-600 for someone to grind them, versus £100
for grinder hire (various sizes from different places, eg 13hp). That
seemed like a suitable difference to make it worthwhile DIY, although that
depends on the extras I would need.

(apart from reinforced trousers, I have all the PPE)

> Hiring chainsaws became expensive once HSE got involved, requiring PPE
> and a new chain being part of the package.

I did see someone mention £50 for chainsaw hire, but most are 50-100% more
than that. Some of the cheaper new petrol or mains chainsaws are into that
territory, eg:
https://www.toolstation.com/hawksmoor-22kw-40cm-electric-chainsaw/p53454

There's also the 'mini' chainsaws, of uncertain quality:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-FIT-BAT-Cordless-Chainsaw-Batteries/dp/B093PG1N2C/

I'm guessing a proper chainsaw is far and away better than a reciprocating
saw?

I'm mostly thinking that if I buy a tool I'd rather have a use for it after
this one job.

> When I grind stumps I do a fair bit of excavation and preparation
> (hollowing out) with a chainsaw first because my grinder is only 5hp and
> hard work. I also sharpen it with a diamond disc fairly frequently.

Good point, I suppose whatever general abuse of the stump and the roots you
can do ahead of time would aid the job.

Theo

On 8/28/2023 4:51 AM, Brian Gaff wrote:
> I was just thinking on US sites they seem to go to explosives very quickly.
> They just like big bangs though. This is the problem with conifers when they
> get out of hand, not easy to remove. Brian
>

That was a practice used by farmers, for clearing stumps from fields.

The trees might be cut down first and cleared. The stumps needed to be
cleared, so that the land could be tilled.

Farmers have rights to materials, that others could only dream of.
In the old days, a farmer could have a case or two of dynamite sticks,
plus a collection of blasting caps or other pyrotechnical triggers.

The only problem with a farmer owning such things, is if the farmer
forgets about the case of dynamite, and the dynamite sticks start to "sweat".

*******

Stump grinders are very popular, so if you're not a farmer, you
likely used a less-spectacular method.

People have fished with dynamite here. In one instance, someone fished
in a lake that had a Boy Scout camp, by using sticks of dynamite. The
explosion kills the fish, which float to the surface and you scoop them up.
Presumably, you only take home the "whole" fish, and any half-fishes are
left in the lake.

And you know where the dynamite is coming from in cases like that.
That's farm dynamite, which someone has stolen from a farm. You don't
drop down to the hardware store, and outfit yourself. That's not a
hardware store item.

Paul

On 28/08/2023 10:32, Theo wrote:

> I did see someone mention £50 for chainsaw hire, but most are 50-100% more
> than that. Some of the cheaper new petrol or mains chainsaws are into that
> territory, eg:
> https://www.toolstation.com/hawksmoor-22kw-40cm-electric-chainsaw/p53454

For an 18" stump, do you need a chainsaw that's more than 18" long?

GB <NOTsomeone@microsoft.invalid> wrote:
> On 28/08/2023 10:32, Theo wrote:
>
>
>> I did see someone mention £50 for chainsaw hire, but most are 50-100% more
>> than that. Some of the cheaper new petrol or mains chainsaws are into that
>> territory, eg:
>> https://www.toolstation.com/hawksmoor-22kw-40cm-electric-chainsaw/p53454
>
> For an 18" stump, do you need a chainsaw that's more than 18" long?
>

Only if you want to cut through it in one “slice”. In theory a 10” bar
would do it. In practice a chainsaw with an 18” bar would probably be
bigger and heavier than most folk would need for light use. A 14” bar would
be more typical.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
> I'm guessing a proper chainsaw is far and away better than a reciprocating
> saw?

If you use a blade designed for bricks, it only takes 4 days:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikg3uLodG_A
(including battery charges)

It appears there are 'pruning' blades up to 12" which might do better, but I
imagine a chainsaw is going to be much less work...

Theo

On 28/08/2023 10:32, Theo wrote:

> DIY with hire of the grinder. Or is that not a good idea?

My limited experience of hire tools in arboriculture is that they come
blunt or otherwise un serviceable, that includes chainsaws, stump
grinders and chippers, MEWPS arrive with flat batteries.

>
> I have a quote for about £500-600 for someone to grind them, versus £100
> for grinder hire (various sizes from different places, eg 13hp). That
> seemed like a suitable difference to make it worthwhile DIY, although that
> depends on the extras I would need.

How many stumps at 18"? I would guess most firms with a self propelled
grinder would expect £100+ and hour plus the VAT and travel.

Picture of preparation for a small machine

https://dcn6x9s7fzj11.cloudfront.net/monthly_2020_05/IMG_20200529_193609_992.thumb.jpg.26ba37a4f0bc75295187c2dda5f323e3.jpg
>
> (apart from reinforced trousers, I have all the PPE)

Not a lot of good with a grinder, don't look if you are squeamish:

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/131716-to-all-stump-grinder-operators/?do=findComment&comment=2011100

> https://www.toolstation.com/hawksmoor-22kw-40cm-electric-chainsaw/p53454

I would definitely go for that or the Titan if you can get the power to
it and don't foresee roaming with it. Indeed with these modern lipo home
power stations...

Sharpening can take a while to learn but is straightforward
>
> There's also the 'mini' chainsaws, of uncertain quality:
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-FIT-BAT-Cordless-Chainsaw-Batteries/dp/B093PG1N2C/

Useless
>
> I'm guessing a proper chainsaw is far and away better than a reciprocating
> saw?

The longest blade for my Makita sabre saw (used mostly for cutting tanks
out of lofts so far, quicker and less sparks than an angle grinder) is
only about 9" long so the only ways that would work would be to run
round the tree multiple times or work your way in by cutting slabs, a
waste of time.
>

>
> Good point, I suppose whatever general abuse of the stump and the roots you
> can do ahead of time would aid the job.

Yes and no, the 75hp tracked one I had at work just ploughed through
anything, the 400hp Awhi I drove did a 2ft stump to ground level in 30
seconds. My 13hp chinese stump grinder takes a long time but gets there.
It cost 1200 quid and has saved me most of that in doing three stumps
and still on the original teeth. Still less than 10hours on the clock
but a fair few hours of my time was needed.

https://www.monstershop.co.uk/t-mech-13hp-stump-grinder

I guess you are too far from near J11 M25 else I could lend a saw and
probably the tmech but you would have to pay for consumables

ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:
> On 28/08/2023 10:32, Theo wrote:
>
> > DIY with hire of the grinder. Or is that not a good idea?
>
> My limited experience of hire tools in arboriculture is that they come
> blunt or otherwise un serviceable, that includes chainsaws, stump
> grinders and chippers, MEWPS arrive with flat batteries.

There is that risk.

> How many stumps at 18"? I would guess most firms with a self propelled
> grinder would expect £100+ and hour plus the VAT and travel.

Four. So £500-600 sounds not too far off. I think the higher quote was
with grindings taken away.

> Not a lot of good with a grinder, don't look if you are squeamish:
>
> https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/131716-to-all-stump-grinder-operators/?do=findComment&comment=2011100

Eww. What's the specific risk with a grinder, beyond getting in front of
the blade? If you stand behind it and make sure it is very off before
messing with the sharp end? Are there kickback, overturning or similar
risks?

> Yes and no, the 75hp tracked one I had at work just ploughed through
> anything, the 400hp Awhi I drove did a 2ft stump to ground level in 30
> seconds. My 13hp chinese stump grinder takes a long time but gets there.
> It cost 1200 quid and has saved me most of that in doing three stumps
> and still on the original teeth. Still less than 10hours on the clock
> but a fair few hours of my time was needed.
>
> https://www.monstershop.co.uk/t-mech-13hp-stump-grinder
>
>
> I guess you are too far from near J11 M25 else I could lend a saw and
> probably the tmech but you would have to pay for consumables

Thanks. This job is in Hampshire, so not implausible, although I suppose
it's too big/heavy to go in the back of a car so transport might be an
issue. (paying for consumables/wear and tear no problem)

It's starting to sound like the pro quote doesn't sound so bad, given all
the extras needed...

Theo

On 29/08/2023 19:15, Theo wrote:

>
> Eww. What's the specific risk with a grinder, beyond getting in front of
> the blade? If you stand behind it and make sure it is very off before
> messing with the sharp end? Are there kickback, overturning or similar
> risks?

Not so much with big ones but the light ones like mine do kick back and
will run up the stump if you take too big a bite.
>
>
> Thanks. This job is in Hampshire, so not implausible, although I suppose
> it's too big/heavy to go in the back of a car so transport might be an
> issue. (paying for consumables/wear and tear no problem)

I go down to Petersfield occasionally, the grinder needs a truck or
trailer. May be worth a look.

email valid

AJH

On Sunday, 27 August 2023 at 19:06:56 UTC+1, Theo wrote:
> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.
>
> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>
> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
> job would be far beyond it though.
>
> Other options:
>
> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
> productivity?
>
> Reciprocating saw - I don't have one, but I could use it elsewhere if it'll
> do the job (although the pruning saw is a poor man's substitute for cutting
> pipes and similar)
>
> Axe - for splitting it vertically. I'm not sure how well that's going to
> work? Wouldn't it need a very large axe? (and I'm quite attached to my feet)
>
> First fix wood saw - likely to get stuck often?
>
> Angle grinder - would be 'interesting'
>
> Some other method?
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Theo

In your situation I'd take a different tack to anyting mentioned so far. A chainsaw is fast but you have no other use for it, and they're not known for being friendly. Stump grinders would do it but cost unnecessarily. I'd pick a circular saw, primarily cos you should have plenty of uses for it later.
How does that work? Put the saw on top of the stump and cut lots of crisscross all over. Smack it sidways with a hammer so the uprights you just cut all snap off. Repeat until gone. Circs are ways less susceptible to soil than chainsaws, cheaper, safer & a lot more useful to most diyers.

Animal <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote:
> In your situation I'd take a different tack to anyting mentioned so far.
> A chainsaw is fast but you have no other use for it, and they're not known
> for being friendly. Stump grinders would do it but cost unnecessarily.
> I'd pick a circular saw, primarily cos you should have plenty of uses for
> it later. How does that work? Put the saw on top of the stump and cut
> lots of crisscross all over. Smack it sidways with a hammer so the
> uprights you just cut all snap off. Repeat until gone. Circs are ways
> less susceptible to soil than chainsaws, cheaper, safer & a lot more
> useful to most diyers.

I have one of those, but I understand the kickback is lethal if it hits a
stone or whatever?

On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
> grinding. They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some months ago
> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
> attached?). Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>
> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise. So I was wondering what else to
> use.
>
> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>
> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable. I think this
> job would be far beyond it though.
>
> Other options:
>
> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
> don't want to take all day over it). Any tips on how to maximise
> productivity?
>
> Reciprocating saw - I don't have one, but I could use it elsewhere if it'll
> do the job (although the pruning saw is a poor man's substitute for cutting
> pipes and similar)
>
> Axe - for splitting it vertically. I'm not sure how well that's going to
> work? Wouldn't it need a very large axe? (and I'm quite attached to my feet)
>
> First fix wood saw - likely to get stuck often?
>
> Angle grinder - would be 'interesting'
>
> Some other method?
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Theo
There's lots of advice on t'web if you search for "burning tree stump" -
I haven't tried it but would be interested to hear how you get on if you do.

On Tuesday, 29 August 2023 at 22:10:05 UTC+1, Theo wrote:
> Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > In your situation I'd take a different tack to anyting mentioned so far.
> > A chainsaw is fast but you have no other use for it, and they're not known
> > for being friendly. Stump grinders would do it but cost unnecessarily.
> > I'd pick a circular saw, primarily cos you should have plenty of uses for
> > it later. How does that work? Put the saw on top of the stump and cut
> > lots of crisscross all over. Smack it sidways with a hammer so the
> > uprights you just cut all snap off. Repeat until gone. Circs are ways
> > less susceptible to soil than chainsaws, cheaper, safer & a lot more
> > useful to most diyers.
> I have one of those, but I understand the kickback is lethal if it hits a
> stone or whatever?

I find mine are no problem to hold against kickback. Unlike chainsaws.

On 30 Aug 2023 at 00:52:18 BST, Animal wrote:

> On Tuesday, 29 August 2023 at 22:10:05 UTC+1, Theo wrote:
>> Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> In your situation I'd take a different tack to anyting mentioned so far.
>>> A chainsaw is fast but you have no other use for it, and they're not known
>>> for being friendly. Stump grinders would do it but cost unnecessarily.
>>> I'd pick a circular saw, primarily cos you should have plenty of uses for
>>> it later. How does that work? Put the saw on top of the stump and cut
>>> lots of crisscross all over. Smack it sidways with a hammer so the
>>> uprights you just cut all snap off. Repeat until gone. Circs are ways
>>> less susceptible to soil than chainsaws, cheaper, safer & a lot more
>>> useful to most diyers.
>> I have one of those, but I understand the kickback is lethal if it hits a
>> stone or whatever?
>
> I find mine are no problem to hold against kickback. Unlike chainsaws.

Even my 18V Lidl, which has been hammered over the past 12 years and is still
on the original blade, isn't a problem. It just stops and cuts out, requiring
a reset.

--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

On 29/08/2023 22:47, nothanks@aolbin.com wrote:

> There's lots of advice on t'web if you search for "burning tree stump" -
> I haven't tried it but would be interested to hear how you get on if you
> do.

Usually posted by those who have neighbours that don't mind you having a
bonfire for a week or more :)

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 29/08/2023 22:47, nothanks@aolbin.com wrote:
> On 27/08/2023 19:06, Theo wrote:
>> I have four conifer tree stumps to chop down to ground level before stump
>> grinding.  They're about 18" diameter and have been chopped some
>> months ago
>> (so in theory dead but maybe still green to some extent as the roots are
>> attached?).  Since the stump grinder is the main event I want to cut them
>> down quickly so I can get on with that.
>>
>> The proper tool for this is a chainsaw, and I could get a cheap one for
>> slightly more than hiring but I'm a bit nervous about safety and don't
>> really have a use for a chainsaw otherwise.  So I was wondering what
>> else to
>> use.
>>
>> I have at my disposal a battery 'pruning saw', one of these:
>> https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/parkside-12v-branch-cutter/p378347
>>
>> which I've previously used for hacking up small logs, up to maybe 6"...
>> it's very hard work (both for me and for the tool) but doable.  I
>> think this
>> job would be far beyond it though.
>>
>> Other options:
>>
>> Bow saw (hand) - would do it, but not sure how much effort it would be (I
>> don't want to take all day over it).  Any tips on how to maximise
>> productivity?
>>
>> Reciprocating saw - I don't have one, but I could use it elsewhere if
>> it'll
>> do the job (although the pruning saw is a poor man's substitute for
>> cutting
>> pipes and similar)
>>
>> Axe - for splitting it vertically.  I'm not sure how well that's going to
>> work?  Wouldn't it need a very large axe? (and I'm quite attached to
>> my feet)
>>
>> First fix wood saw - likely to get stuck often?
>>
>> Angle grinder - would be 'interesting'
>>
>> Some other method?
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Theo
> There's lots of advice on t'web if you search for "burning tree stump" -
> I haven't tried it but would be interested to hear how you get on if you
> do.

I had several conifers here when I rebuilt the house that had to go. I
think they might have been thujas rather than cupressis leylandii.
I cut them down and burn them (resin burns well) but was left with large
stumps.

I kept on lighting fires on top. Until they gave up,

--
In todays liberal progressive conflict-free education system, everyone
gets full Marx.