The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved with
some quality bodging.

The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the drum
I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.

A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back to
glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles on
the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.

The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
until I actually fit it.

Any tips or cunnings suggestions?

--
Sig's sig

On 06/07/2022 21:24, sig wrote:
> The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved with
> some quality bodging.
>
> The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
> pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the drum
> I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.
>
> A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
> provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back to
> glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles on
> the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.
>
> The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
> problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
> until I actually fit it.
>
> Any tips or cunnings suggestions?

No sign of vintage cars here so their prices might be reasonable?

<https://ldsengineering.co.uk/brake-disc-and-drum-skimming-surrey-hampshire/>

--
Bruce Horrocks
FJR1300AS

sig wrote:

> The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved
> with some quality bodging.
>
> The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
> pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the
> drum I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.
>
> A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
> provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back
> to glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles
> on the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.
>
> The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
> problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
> until I actually fit it.
>
> Any tips or cunnings suggestions?

I've had oval brake drums on the lorry and I would describe as more of
a pulsating brake pedal which clearly varies according to speed. You
mention juddering, maybe oil/grease or rust on the inside surface of
the drum, maybe worth giving it a clean or a bit of a rub with wet or
dry. Brake shoes OK? bit of grease on the pivot point and cam. Also
check the brake arm (torque rod?) bolts aren't worn or loose.
Failing that, scrap it?

--
Geoff
NTV 650

On 06/07/2022 23:07, Bruce Horrocks wrote:
> On 06/07/2022 21:24, sig wrote:
>> The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved
>> with some quality bodging.
>>
>> The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
>> pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the
>> drum I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.
>>
>> A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
>> provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back to
>> glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles on
>> the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.
>>
>> The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
>> problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
>> until I actually fit it.
>>
>> Any tips or cunnings suggestions?
>
> No sign of vintage cars here so their prices might be reasonable?
>
> <https://ldsengineering.co.uk/brake-disc-and-drum-skimming-surrey-hampshire/>
>
>
I might give them a call although it looks like I can get a replacement
used wheel for about £40, so that would probably be cheaper.

On 07/07/2022 00:24, GeoffC wrote:
> sig wrote:
>
>> The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved
>> with some quality bodging.
>>
>> The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
>> pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the
>> drum I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.
>>
>> A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
>> provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back
>> to glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles
>> on the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.
>>
>> The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
>> problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
>> until I actually fit it.
>>
>> Any tips or cunnings suggestions?
>
> I've had oval brake drums on the lorry and I would describe as more of
> a pulsating brake pedal which clearly varies according to speed. You
> mention juddering, maybe oil/grease or rust on the inside surface of
> the drum, maybe worth giving it a clean or a bit of a rub with wet or
> dry. Brake shoes OK? bit of grease on the pivot point and cam. Also
> check the brake arm (torque rod?) bolts aren't worn or loose.
> Failing that, scrap it?
>

Torque arm is all solid. Actuator arm fixings are all OK. The shoes have
just over 3mm of wear left against a limit of 2mm, and they look evenly
worn.

The drum itself has patches which are shiny and patches which are rusty,
which to me suggests interrupted wear i.e. it's ovalised.

On 07/07/2022 13:05, sig wrote:
>On 07/07/2022 00:24, GeoffC wrote:
>> sig wrote:
>>
>>> The SOER5 failed its MoT on a few things, all but one I've resolved
>>> with some quality bodging.
>>>
>>> The remaining issue is a juddering from the rear drum brake when the
>>> pedal is depressed. Having taken measurements of the inside of the
>>> drum I'm pretty sure it's gone a bit oval.
>>>
>>> A perusal of the websites of various companies which do drum skimming
>>> provide a parade of classic cars and motorcycles being brought back
>>> to glorious newness. I'm not sure my tatty commuter with 51,000 miles
>>> on the clock justifies that sort of expenditure.
>>>
>>> The other option is to get a replacement wheel from a breaker. The
>>> problem I see there is that I won't know the new wheel is any better
>>> until I actually fit it.
>>>
>>> Any tips or cunnings suggestions?
>>
>> I've had oval brake drums on the lorry and I would describe as more of
>> a pulsating brake pedal which clearly varies according to speed. You
>> mention juddering, maybe oil/grease or rust on the inside surface of
>> the drum, maybe worth giving it a clean or a bit of a rub with wet or
>> dry. Brake shoes OK? bit of grease on the pivot point and cam. Also
>> check the brake arm (torque rod?) bolts aren't worn or loose.
>> Failing that, scrap it?
>>
>
>Torque arm is all solid. Actuator arm fixings are all OK. The shoes have
>just over 3mm of wear left against a limit of 2mm, and they look evenly
>worn.
>
>The drum itself has patches which are shiny and patches which are rusty,
>which to me suggests interrupted wear i.e. it's ovalised.

Indeed, a smoking gun.
--
Geoff
NTV 650

On 07/07/2022 15:16, geoffC wrote:
> On 07/07/2022 13:05, sig wrote:
>> On 07/07/2022 00:24, GeoffC wrote:
>>> sig wrote:
[snip]
>> Torque arm is all solid. Actuator arm fixings are all OK. The shoes
>> have just over 3mm of wear left against a limit of 2mm, and they look
>> evenly worn.
>>
>> The drum itself has patches which are shiny and patches which are
>> rusty, which to me suggests interrupted wear i.e. it's ovalised.
>
> Indeed, a smoking gun.

Failed to find anyone local who would attempt the job, local breakers
out-of-stock so found a replacement wheel on eBay for £45 including
postage. As a bonus the wheel came with a new nearly-new tyre. Which
obviously saved me the extra cost of swapping the existing tyre over.

I've fitted the wheel without any problems; riding it up and down my
street it felt much better and definitely no pulsing. So I've booked it
for another MoT next week.

--
Sig's sig

sig wrote:

> As a bonus the wheel came with a new nearly-new tyre.

How do you know it's nearly new? Date markings or because it has some
decent tread depth?

In the past I wouldn't really be too bothered by tyre age, as long as
it gave the pretence of being legal and wasn't "Golden Boy" brand.

I had a lot of MZs and could ride around the bakelite East German
Pneumats (now Heidenau) and various other everlasting tyres.

I'm now a bit more cagey with very old tyres (6 or 7+ years) - perhaps
modern compounds go off quicker? Old modern tyres (IYSWIM) do seem to
lose their grip earlier than old old tyres.

Modern compounds are much better than old but perhaps go off sooner.

I know that a proper test of this would be difficult, if only by the
inexorable passage of time.

The spare on the Jag was dated at 1986 when I changed it a few years
ago. The sidewalls looked interesting when it took the cars weight -
got me home though.

--
Simon

On 19/07/2022 07:57, sweller wrote:
> sig wrote:
>
>> As a bonus the wheel came with a new nearly-new tyre.
>
> How do you know it's nearly new? Date markings or because it has some
> decent tread depth?
>
> In the past I wouldn't really be too bothered by tyre age, as long as
> it gave the pretence of being legal and wasn't "Golden Boy" brand.
>
> I had a lot of MZs and could ride around the bakelite East German
> Pneumats (now Heidenau) and various other everlasting tyres.
>
> I'm now a bit more cagey with very old tyres (6 or 7+ years) - perhaps
> modern compounds go off quicker? Old modern tyres (IYSWIM) do seem to
> lose their grip earlier than old old tyres.
>
> Modern compounds are much better than old but perhaps go off sooner.
>
> I know that a proper test of this would be difficult, if only by the
> inexorable passage of time.
>
> The spare on the Jag was dated at 1986 when I changed it a few years
> ago. The sidewalls looked interesting when it took the cars weight -
> got me home though.
>

I didn't read the date but it has plenty of tread, nice and clean
without any cuts or damage or embedded stones, the wheel-balancing
weights look new and there was still a smear of the fitting gunk. I
don't know how good a tyre it is, some brand I didn't recognise and
can't now recall. I'll be happy if it gets through the MoT tomorrow.

On 15/07/2022 12:37, sig wrote:
>
> I've fitted the wheel without any problems; riding it up and down my
> street it felt much better and definitely no pulsing. So I've booked it
> for another MoT next week.
>

Update: I know the wait has been even more tantalising than the
Conservatov party leadership contest but I can report that the bike now
has an MoT, albeit with an impressive list of advisories.

Next job is to wash it and put it up for sale. It's reached that point
where more time is spent on maintenance than actually riding it.

--
Sig's sig.

On 21/07/2022 14:15, sig wrote:

>
> It's reached that point where more time is spent on maintenance than actually > riding it.
>

This is a problem?

--
/Simon

On 21/07/2022 20:57, siwilson wrote:
> On 21/07/2022 14:15, sig wrote:
>
>>
>> It's reached that point where more time is spent on maintenance than
>> actually > riding it.
>>
>
> This is a problem?
>

I know this is probably a rhetorical question but yes. It's not a shiny
epitome of engineering excellence which I can admire, it's a tatty
commuter bike. When I look at it I just see all the upcoming jobs: fork
seals, front disc, yoke bearings, frame rust, mysterious radiator leak -
none of which fills me with a sense of eager anticipation. By selling it
my mind is clear of those.

When I had a 1980 VW T3 (2l air-cooled) the necessary work increased
until it overwhelmed my time. I felt a great sense of relief when I took
the decision to sell it.

--
Sig's sig.