Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-

"I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".

Well as I already had a tin of Hammerite in the garage the only expense
was 10 minutes of my time, so it was a no brainer.

My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run
into thousands?

A link to the installation (post application of hammerite is below)

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZMM5pVZDi3XX2M5RjbUK83EseKtI4Bx1KB7

--
Chris B (News)

On Tue, 3 May 2022 17:15:27 +0100, Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:

>Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
>he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>
>"I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
>on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>
>Well as I already had a tin of Hammerite in the garage the only expense
>was 10 minutes of my time, so it was a no brainer.
>
>My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run
>into thousands?
>
>A link to the installation (post application of hammerite is below)
>
>
>https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZMM5pVZDi3XX2M5RjbUK83EseKtI4Bx1KB7

When I had my gas meter moved from inside the garage to outside so
that it could be read without having to involve me, I had to have the
whole length of ?black iron pipe replaced in 'plastic' right back to
the main in the road, because it was 'policy'.

Perhaps that would happen in your case.

--
Chris

On 03/05/2022 17:52, Chris Hogg wrote:
> On Tue, 3 May 2022 17:15:27 +0100, Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>
>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>
>> Well as I already had a tin of Hammerite in the garage the only expense
>> was 10 minutes of my time, so it was a no brainer.
>>
>> My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run
>> into thousands?
>>
>> A link to the installation (post application of hammerite is below)
>>
>>
>> https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZMM5pVZDi3XX2M5RjbUK83EseKtI4Bx1KB7
>
> When I had my gas meter moved from inside the garage to outside so
> that it could be read without having to involve me, I had to have the
> whole length of ?black iron pipe replaced in 'plastic' right back to
> the main in the road, because it was 'policy'.
>
> Perhaps that would happen in your case.

Although if the pipe is before the meter, then it is not part of your
installation. I can see them wanting to charge for the work if you
instigate the change by wanting the meter moved, but not sure if they
could charge for it if is for maintenance required as a result of
general wear and tear on the distribution network?

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-

> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".

Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
through.

--
*Change is inevitable ... except from vending machines *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2022 18:23, John Rumm wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 17:52, Chris Hogg wrote:
>> On Tue, 3 May 2022 17:15:27 +0100, Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
>>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>>
>>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>>> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
>>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>>
>>> Well as I already had a tin of Hammerite in the garage the only expense
>>> was 10 minutes of my time, so it was a no brainer.
>>>
>>> My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run
>>> into thousands?
>>>
>>> A link to the installation (post application of hammerite is below)
>>>
>>>
>>> https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZMM5pVZDi3XX2M5RjbUK83EseKtI4Bx1KB7
>>
>> When I had my gas meter moved from inside the garage to outside so
>> that it could be read without having to involve me, I had to have the
>> whole length of ?black iron pipe replaced in 'plastic' right back to
>> the main in the road, because it was 'policy'.
>>
>> Perhaps that would happen in your case.
>
> Although if the pipe is before the meter, then it is not part of your
> installation. I can see them wanting to charge for the work if you
> instigate the change by wanting the meter moved, but not sure if they
> could charge for it if is for maintenance required as a result of
> general wear and tear on the distribution network?

From
<https://sgn.co.uk/sites/default/files/media-entities/documents/2020-01/SGN-Getting-Connected-Guide.pdf>:

"Bringing gas to you:

We own the pipes which transport gas into homes across southern England
and the whole of Scotland, but we don’t own the gas. We look after the
pipes up to the emergency control valve (ECV), which is located before
your meter and allows you to turn off gas in an emergency."

And from page 3 of that document:

"How much will it cost?

Every job is different but the majority of domestic work we carry out
costs customers between £400 and £1,000."

I assume other areas are similar.

--

Jeff

John Rumm explained :
> but not sure if they could charge for it if is for maintenance required as a
> result of general wear and tear on the distribution network?

It's what you pay for, as part of the meter standing charge.

Chris B used his keyboard to write :
> My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run into
> thousands?

It wouldn't. The thousands might refer to if there was a leak and the
leakage cuaght fire, burning your house down. Those are thick steel and
will take many decades to rust through.

On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
> Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>
>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>
> Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
> meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
> I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
> through.
>
Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the
photo

--
Chris B (News)

Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the photo
>
>

In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.

On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>> the photo
>>
>>
>
> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.

Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the meter
to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to do it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

John Rumm pretended :
> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the
>>> photo
>>>
>>>
>>
>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
>
> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the meter to
> the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to do it.

I agree, only if it leaked and caused serious damage to the house would
it cost thaousands.

In article <t4rqcr$kcs$1@dont-email.me>,
Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> > In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
> > Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
> >> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
> >> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
> >
> >> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
> >> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
> >> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
> >> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
> >> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
> >> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
> >> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
> >
> > Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
> > meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
> > I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
> > through.
> >
> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the
> photo

Then I'd contact BG or whoever and ask why it had been fitted with
materials not fit for purpose?

However, it's hardly going to cost thousands to replace a rusty coupler.

--
*A day without sunshine is like... night.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 04/05/2022 11:49, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <t4rqcr$kcs$1@dont-email.me>,
> Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>> On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>>> In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
>>> Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler. When
>>>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>>
>>>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>>>> rusted. The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>>>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>>>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>>>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>>>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap. A small expense
>>>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>>
>>> Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
>>> meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
>>> I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
>>> through.
>>>
>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the
>> photo
>
> Then I'd contact BG or whoever and ask why it had been fitted with
> materials not fit for purpose?
>
> However, it's hardly going to cost thousands to replace a rusty coupler.

When has iron barrel become not fit for purpose?

I would be worried about the copper side suffering damage from sticking
out so far with unknown support.

In article <t4tpik$4ph$1@dont-email.me>,
Fredxx <fredxx@spam.uk> wrote:
> >> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
> >> the photo
> >
> > Then I'd contact BG or whoever and ask why it had been fitted with
> > materials not fit for purpose?
> >
> > However, it's hardly going to cost thousands to replace a rusty
> > coupler.

> When has iron barrel become not fit for purpose?

If it has rusted through, obviously not?

> I would be worried about the copper side suffering damage from sticking
> out so far with unknown support.

--
*The more people I meet, the more I like my dog.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2022 18:56, Chris B wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>> In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
>>     Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler.  When
>>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>
>>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>>> rusted.  The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts right
>>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap.  A small expense
>>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>
>> Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
>> meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
>> I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
>> through.
>>
> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in the
> photo
>

Why is your pipework a mix of copper and 3/4 inch 'black' iron ?.

I would be more concerned about the gap between the 3/4 inch iron
and the sleeving where it goes through the wall because
that is a water trap and painting the outside won't protect what you
cannot see.

I would buy a can of spray grease from a motor factor and liberally
spray into that gap after a period of dry weather. Then wrap some
desno tape around the bit of iron on show to completely seal the
gap between gas pipe and sleeving.

On 03/05/2022 23:07, John Rumm wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>>> the photo
>>>
>>>
>>
>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
>
> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the meter
> to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to do it.
>

We don't know what is on the other side of that wall, only that
copper is connected to 3/4 inch screwed iron as it traverses the
wall on the outside.

If there is a matching iron->copper compression joint on the
other side (so must be accessible ??) then why is there a short
run of iron running through the wall ?. Easy to replace with
copper.

On 04/05/2022 13:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <t4tpik$4ph$1@dont-email.me>,
> Fredxx <fredxx@spam.uk> wrote:
>>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>>>> the photo
>>>
>>> Then I'd contact BG or whoever and ask why it had been fitted with
>>> materials not fit for purpose?
>>>
>>> However, it's hardly going to cost thousands to replace a rusty
>>> coupler.
>
>> When has iron barrel become not fit for purpose?
>
> If it has rusted through, obviously not?
>
>> I would be worried about the copper side suffering damage from sticking
>> out so far with unknown support.
>

If it was galvanised then there is no problem, but unprotected
3/4 inch 'black' iron pipe should have been wrapped with denso tape
or painted with bitumen paint (not Hammerite).

On 03/05/2022 18:53, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> Chris B used his keyboard to write :
>> My question is why might repair of this innocent looking component run
>> into thousands?
>
> It wouldn't. The thousands might refer to if there was a leak and the
> leakage cuaght fire, burning your house down. Those are thick steel and
> will take many decades to rust through.

The problem is what you cannot see, i.e. the small gap between pipe and
sleeve which is a water trap, where corrosion can occur more quickly
because it tends to be wet or damp for longer than exposed pipe.

In my house, the 3/4 inch iron pipe running to the meter under the
garage floor and into the house (under a metre wiode path) is inside
4 inch salt glazed pipes to isolate it from contact with soil and
is painted with black bitumen pipe (1976 build).

Modern installations (where iron pipe) is used, seem to use a mix of
galvanised or yellow plastic coated steel.

On 04/05/2022 15:28, Andrew wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 18:56, Chris B wrote:
>> On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>>> In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
>>>     Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler.
>>>> When
>>>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>>
>>>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>>>> rusted.  The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts
>>>> right
>>>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>>>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>>>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>>>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap.  A small expense
>>>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>>
>>> Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
>>> meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
>>> I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
>>> through.
>>>
>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>> the photo
>>
>
> Why is your pipework a mix of copper and 3/4 inch 'black' iron ?.
>
> I would be more concerned about the gap between the 3/4 inch iron
> and the sleeving where it goes through the wall because
> that is a water trap and painting the outside won't protect what you
> cannot see.
>
> I would buy a can of spray grease from a motor factor and liberally
> spray into that gap after a period of dry weather. Then wrap some
> desno tape around the bit of iron on show to completely seal the
> gap between gas pipe and sleeving.

I thought that was forbidden. While you can seal between the two pipes
on the inside of a wall, any leak between the two must be allowed to
escape outside.

On 04/05/2022 15:28, Andrew wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 18:56, Chris B wrote:
>> On 03/05/2022 18:41, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>>> In article <t4rkev$v16$1@dont-email.me>,
>>>     Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> Had a gas man round today for an annual service of the gas boiler.
>>>> When
>>>> he arrived and at no extra charge he commented that:-
>>>
>>>> "I notice where your gas pipe goes into the house the coupling is badly
>>>> rusted.  The ends of those couplers are quite thin and if it rusts
>>>> right
>>>> through the repair will be very expensive (in the thousands of pound).
>>>> If I were you I would buy a little tin of Hammerite and paint the rusty
>>>> bit of iron making sure that you try and run some paint as far as you
>>>> can inside the white sleeving without filling the gap.  A small expense
>>>> on a tin of Hammerite might save you a lot of money".
>>>
>>> Is this before or after the meter? When it became the fashion to move
>>> meters outdoors, iron barrel was generally replaced at the same time.
>>> I'd say an iron barrel coupling would take a very long time to rust
>>> through.
>>>
>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>> the photo
>>
>
> Why is your pipework a mix of copper and 3/4 inch 'black' iron ?.
>
> I would be more concerned about the gap between the 3/4 inch iron
> and the sleeving where it goes through the wall because
> that is a water trap and painting the outside won't protect what you
> cannot see.

The sleeving is a requirement if a pipe is passing through a cavity
wall. Typically gap between pipe and it's sleeve is sealed at the inside
interface, and the outside must be open such that leak is vented outside.

> I would buy a can of spray grease from a motor factor and liberally
> spray into that gap after a period of dry weather. Then wrap some
> desno tape around the bit of iron on show to completely seal the
> gap between gas pipe and sleeving.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 04/05/2022 15:32, Andrew wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 23:07, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>>>> the photo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
>>
>> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the
>> meter to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to
>> do it.
>>
>
> We don't know what is on the other side of that wall, only that
> copper is connected to 3/4 inch screwed iron as it traverses the
> wall on the outside.

There is nothing "visible" on the inside. The pipe disappears under the
floor to feed boiler/stove/fireplace on the other side of the house.

>
> If there is a matching iron->copper compression joint on the
> other side (so must be accessible ??) then why is there a short
> run of iron running through the wall ?. Easy to replace with
> copper.

--
Chris B (News)

On 04/05/2022 15:32, Andrew wrote:
> On 03/05/2022 23:07, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>>>> the photo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
>>
>> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the
>> meter to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to
>> do it.
>>
>
> We don't know what is on the other side of that wall, only that
> copper is connected to 3/4 inch screwed iron as it traverses the
> wall on the outside.
>
> If there is a matching iron->copper compression joint on the
> other side (so must be accessible ??) then why is there a short
> run of iron running through the wall ?. Easy to replace with
> copper.

It appears that the iron does not run all the way through the wall.
Although obliviously difficult to see there is a significant reduction
in pipe diameter just inside the sleeve. I assumed that this is a
return to copper and if it is then I have no idea why the iron coupler
has been fitted. Unless this is to satisfy some requirement or other.

--
Chris B (News)

On 05/05/2022 09:00, Chris B wrote:
> I have no idea why the iron coupler has been fitted.  Unless this is to
> satisfy some requirement or other.

Or it 'was all I had to hand at the time in the van, guv'

--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

In article <t50067$hom$1@dont-email.me>,
Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
> On 04/05/2022 15:32, Andrew wrote:
> > On 03/05/2022 23:07, John Rumm wrote:
> >> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> >>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
> >>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
> >>>> the photo
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
> >>
> >> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the
> >> meter to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to
> >> do it.
> >>
> >
> > We don't know what is on the other side of that wall, only that
> > copper is connected to 3/4 inch screwed iron as it traverses the
> > wall on the outside.
> >
> > If there is a matching iron->copper compression joint on the
> > other side (so must be accessible ??) then why is there a short
> > run of iron running through the wall ?. Easy to replace with
> > copper.

> It appears that the iron does not run all the way through the wall.
> Although obliviously difficult to see there is a significant reduction
> in pipe diameter just inside the sleeve. I assumed that this is a
> return to copper and if it is then I have no idea why the iron coupler
> has been fitted. Unless this is to satisfy some requirement or other.

I'd get in touch with your gas board. They will have originally sited the
meter outdoors. And should have used galvanised fittings, if iron barrel.

--
*Frustration is trying to find your glasses without your glasses.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 05/05/2022 15:12, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <t50067$hom$1@dont-email.me>,
> Chris B <news@salis.co.uk> wrote:
>> On 04/05/2022 15:32, Andrew wrote:
>>> On 03/05/2022 23:07, John Rumm wrote:
>>>> On 03/05/2022 19:00, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>>>>> Chris B explained on 03/05/2022 :
>>>>>> Its my side of the meter. The meter is outside, just to the left in
>>>>>> the photo
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> In that case, your responsibility to pay for any repairs.
>>>>
>>>> Still can't see it costing thousands to re-pipe in copper from the
>>>> meter to the existing copper inside... even if paying someone else to
>>>> do it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> We don't know what is on the other side of that wall, only that
>>> copper is connected to 3/4 inch screwed iron as it traverses the
>>> wall on the outside.
>>>
>>> If there is a matching iron->copper compression joint on the
>>> other side (so must be accessible ??) then why is there a short
>>> run of iron running through the wall ?. Easy to replace with
>>> copper.
>
>> It appears that the iron does not run all the way through the wall.
>> Although obliviously difficult to see there is a significant reduction
>> in pipe diameter just inside the sleeve. I assumed that this is a
>> return to copper and if it is then I have no idea why the iron coupler
>> has been fitted. Unless this is to satisfy some requirement or other.
>
> I'd get in touch with your gas board. They will have originally sited the
> meter outdoors. And should have used galvanised fittings, if iron barrel.

I'm not sure if the OP will thank you for his floor being dug up!

Though something tells me they will reroute any pipework to take an
easier path.