Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops.. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.

Got me stumpted..

--
Speedgazebo

On 21/01/2022 16:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
> Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
> It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
>
> Got me stumpted..
>
> --
> Speedgazebo

Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

On 21/01/2022 16:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:

> no blockages any where

uh huh

+1 on wot Pete says.

--
/Simon

On Friday, 21 January 2022 at 16:35:52 UTC, Pete Fisher wrote:
> On 21/01/2022 16:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
> > Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
> > It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
> >
> > Got me stumpted..
> >
> > --
> > Speedgazebo
> Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
> lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
> gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
> never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.
>
I did, every removeable bit removed. I've just put it in for another go, again striped bare.

--
Speedgezebo

On 21/01/2022 17:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
>Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
>It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
>
>Got me stumpted..
>
>--
>Speedgazebo

No air leuks in the rubber bit twixt carb and head ?

--
Geoff

Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:

> diaphram is a bit baggy

I don't suppose that's helping either

--
"There's nothing more dangreous than a resourceful idiot"

Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote:
> "Speedgazebo <nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs?
>
> Jets are actually clear and round if you sight through them? I've seen
> bits of crud partially blocking jets before now.

+1 on that. A bit of monofilament fishing line can be useful for
cleaning out those tiny holes. Against the fuel flow.

Diaphragms in CV carbs mostly (I think) help lifting the piston to allow
full air flow at high speed/performance, not off-idle or partial load.

--
ts // scrap vehicle to send e-mail
Finally four Boxers!

Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Jan 2022 08:04:21 -0800 (PST), "Speedgazebo MOTP #1"
> <nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs?
>
> Not an expert by any means but at idle so long as the diaphragm isn't
> leaking then it's much more likely to be jets, as others have said.
> Needing choke implies idle / pilot jet (or the associated passages)
> problems.
>
> Fuel is flowing freely? Float level about right (though IMLE they're
> pretty tolerant of this at least for starting), but it's easy to
> elliminate.
>
> Jets are actually clear and round if you sight through them? I've seen
> bits of crud partially blocking jets before now.

+1 on the diaphragm, so long as it's not holed or ripped, should not
affect idle.

It's nearly always crud in a jet, crud in a passageway, or fuel
level too high or too low, or a faulty float valve failing to seal
or stuck closed.

And most fuel level problems are down to well meaning folk who can't
leave well enough alone, or fit aftermarket float valves that are a
different length from OEM.

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao

On Friday, 21 January 2022 at 19:25:55 UTC, Mark Olson wrote:
> Pipl <plus...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> > On Fri, 21 Jan 2022 08:04:21 -0800 (PST), "Speedgazebo MOTP #1"
> > <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >>Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs?
> >
> > Not an expert by any means but at idle so long as the diaphragm isn't
> > leaking then it's much more likely to be jets, as others have said.
> > Needing choke implies idle / pilot jet (or the associated passages)
> > problems.
> >
> > Fuel is flowing freely? Float level about right (though IMLE they're
> > pretty tolerant of this at least for starting), but it's easy to
> > elliminate.
> >
> > Jets are actually clear and round if you sight through them? I've seen
> > bits of crud partially blocking jets before now.
> +1 on the diaphragm, so long as it's not holed or ripped, should not
> affect idle.
>
> It's nearly always crud in a jet, crud in a passageway, or fuel
> level too high or too low, or a faulty float valve failing to seal
> or stuck closed.
>
> And most fuel level problems are down to well meaning folk who can't
> leave well enough alone, or fit aftermarket float valves that are a
> different length from OEM.
>
Thanks for those comments. The carb doesn't look like its ever been off or opened before and the internals all look original. It's had another hour in the ulrasonic bath and now it's ready to go back on later for another go.

--
Speedgazebo

On 22/01/2022 08:54, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
> On Friday, 21 January 2022 at 19:25:55 UTC, Mark Olson wrote:
>> Pipl <plus...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>>> On Fri, 21 Jan 2022 08:04:21 -0800 (PST), "Speedgazebo MOTP #1"
>>> <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs?
>>>
>>> Not an expert by any means but at idle so long as the diaphragm isn't
>>> leaking then it's much more likely to be jets, as others have said.
>>> Needing choke implies idle / pilot jet (or the associated passages)
>>> problems.
>>>
>>> Fuel is flowing freely? Float level about right (though IMLE they're
>>> pretty tolerant of this at least for starting), but it's easy to
>>> elliminate.
>>>
>>> Jets are actually clear and round if you sight through them? I've seen
>>> bits of crud partially blocking jets before now.
>> +1 on the diaphragm, so long as it's not holed or ripped, should not
>> affect idle.
>>
>> It's nearly always crud in a jet, crud in a passageway, or fuel
>> level too high or too low, or a faulty float valve failing to seal
>> or stuck closed.
>>
>> And most fuel level problems are down to well meaning folk who can't
>> leave well enough alone, or fit aftermarket float valves that are a
>> different length from OEM.
>>
> Thanks for those comments. The carb doesn't look like its ever been off or opened before and the internals all look original. It's had another hour in the ulrasonic bath and now it's ready to go back on later for another go.
>

I once had an idle jet on a Keihin MX type carb that just refused to
unblock despite repeated ultrasonic soaks and tentative prods with
suitable poky things. In the end I just purchased a new one. The machine
in question still seems to be performing OK - eh Ogden?

What fluid are you using in the bath and at what temperature?

The SROB[1] Sunbeam fooled me when I first was tinkering with it. The
(separate) float chamber was flooding so I treated it to a full strip
and ultrasound, then a new float and needle. Luckily nobody had tried
'lapping' the old one in so i didn't need a new chamber. On reassembly
it would start and idle OK but not rev up (for 1937 long stroke 250
values of rev up). Turned out I hadn't clipped the throttle needle in to
the valve securely and so the needle wasn't lifting as you opened the
throttle.

Absolute refusal to tick over very much suggests a problem with fuel
flow in the idle 'circuit'. Which particular carb is it? Not a dual
stage normal/CV like the Teikei on XT600 or Gilera Nordwest is it? They
can be bastards, if left standing. But at least once started using the
appropriate technique[2] the beast will usually idle and run OK.

[1] Shite Really Old Bike
[2] Answer may be found on a Gilera website/forum not unknown to some.

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

On 21/01/2022 17:26, geoffC wrote:
> On 21/01/2022 17:04, Speedgazebo  MOTP #1 wrote:
>> Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought
>> it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650
>> and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as
>> I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a
>> good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it
>> won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy,
>> do we think  this likely to be the issue? It's not an ignition issue,
>> there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
>> Got me stumpted..
>>
>> --
>> Speedgazebo
>
> No air leuks in the rubber bit twixt carb and head ?
>
Those 2 letters are not even next to each other on the keyboard!

--
Bruce Porter
"The internet is a huge and diverse community but mainly friendly"
http://ytc1.blogspot.co.uk/
There *is* an alternative! http://www.openoffice.org/

YTC#1 wrote:

> On 21/01/2022 17:26, geoffC wrote:
> > On 21/01/2022 17:04, Speedgazebo  MOTP #1 wrote:
> > > Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have
> > > thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have
> > > this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on
> > > choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in
> > > an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like
> > > new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a
> > > diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think  this
> > > likely to be the issue? It's not an ignition issue, there a good
> > > spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb. Got me
> > > stumpted..
> > >
> > > -- Speedgazebo
> >
> > No air leuks in the rubber bit twixt carb and head ?
> >
> Those 2 letters are not even next to each other on the keyboard!

Haha, indeed, my phone has a predictive text/spill chucker thing and
you can switch between languages by swiping the space bar. Sometimes
helpful, sometimes annoying and sometimes just plain amusing.

--
Geoff
Honda NTV650

Speedgazebo MOTP #1 <nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Friday, 21 January 2022 at 16:35:52 UTC, Pete Fisher wrote:
>> On 21/01/2022 16:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
>> > Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
>> > It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
>> >
>> > Got me stumpted..
>> >
>> > --
>> > Speedgazebo
>> Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
>> lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
>> gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
>> never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.
>>
> I did, every removeable bit removed. I've just put it in for another go, again striped bare.

New diaphram.

--
http://www.netunix.com/

On Saturday, 22 January 2022 at 11:25:39 UTC, c...@nospam.com wrote:
> Speedgazebo MOTP #1 <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Friday, 21 January 2022 at 16:35:52 UTC, Pete Fisher wrote:
> >> On 21/01/2022 16:04, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
> >> > Does anyone know anything about diaphram carbs? I would have thought it was pretty simple but it's not working out. I have this Honda 650 and it simply won't run, it'll only run a bit on choke but as soon as I let go it stops. I have put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good clean, and now it loks like new, no blockages any where but it won't run. It's got a diaphram carb and the diaphram is a bit baggy, do we think this likely to be the issue?
> >> > It's not an ignition issue, there a good spark and it'll run if I squirt Bradex into the carb.
> >> >
> >> > Got me stumpted..
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > Speedgazebo
> >> Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
> >> lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
> >> gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
> >> never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.
> >>
> > I did, every removeable bit removed. I've just put it in for another go, again striped bare.
> New diaphram.

Unfortunately unavailable. But I'm not convinced it's the issue.

--
Speedgazebo

> >
> I once had an idle jet on a Keihin MX type carb that just refused to
> unblock despite repeated ultrasonic soaks and tentative prods with
> suitable poky things. In the end I just purchased a new one. The machine
> in question still seems to be performing OK - eh Ogden?

I have found a s/h one on Fleabay which I have ordered as a prercaution.

> What fluid are you using in the bath and at what temperature?

I have the bath at 40c and I'm using a squirt of Elbow Gease kitchen degreaser. Really.

>
> The SROB[1] Sunbeam fooled me when I first was tinkering with it. The
> (separate) float chamber was flooding so I treated it to a full strip
> and ultrasound, then a new float and needle. Luckily nobody had tried
> 'lapping' the old one in so i didn't need a new chamber. On reassembly
> it would start and idle OK but not rev up (for 1937 long stroke 250
> values of rev up). Turned out I hadn't clipped the throttle needle in to
> the valve securely and so the needle wasn't lifting as you opened the
> throttle.
>
> Absolute refusal to tick over very much suggests a problem with fuel
> flow in the idle 'circuit'. Which particular carb is it? Not a dual
> stage normal/CV like the Teikei on XT600 or Gilera Nordwest is it? They
> can be bastards, if left standing. But at least once started using the
> appropriate technique[2] the beast will usually idle and run OK.

It's a Kehin 40V, I had one of those dual stage things on my 600 Tenere, it always seemed to be a complicate way to do it. The bike had a period of disuse from 2008 to 2018 and has only done 30 miles since then.

--
Speedgazebo

Speedgazebo MOTP #1 <nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >> > --
>> >> > Speedgazebo
>> >> Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
>> >> lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
>> >> gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
>> >> never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.
>> >>
>> > I did, every removeable bit removed. I've just put it in for another go, again striped bare.
>> New diaphram.
>
> Unfortunately unavailable. But I'm not convinced it's the issue.

Unlikely to be the cause of bad starting, it sounds like you have an air
leak somewhere. A sloppy or possbly perforated diaphram will however
cause serious bad running issues.
Try googling the part number for the diaphram, it will be a part for
several other bikes and you might get lucky.
--
http://www.netunix.com/

On 22/01/2022 18:42, Speedgazebo MOTP #1 wrote:
>
>>>
>> I once had an idle jet on a Keihin MX type carb that just refused to
>> unblock despite repeated ultrasonic soaks and tentative prods with
>> suitable poky things. In the end I just purchased a new one. The machine
>> in question still seems to be performing OK - eh Ogden?
>
> I have found a s/h one on Fleabay which I have ordered as a prercaution.
>
>> What fluid are you using in the bath and at what temperature?
>
> I have the bath at 40c and I'm using a squirt of Elbow Gease kitchen degreaser. Really.
>
>>
>> The SROB[1] Sunbeam fooled me when I first was tinkering with it. The
>> (separate) float chamber was flooding so I treated it to a full strip
>> and ultrasound, then a new float and needle. Luckily nobody had tried
>> 'lapping' the old one in so i didn't need a new chamber. On reassembly
>> it would start and idle OK but not rev up (for 1937 long stroke 250
>> values of rev up). Turned out I hadn't clipped the throttle needle in to
>> the valve securely and so the needle wasn't lifting as you opened the
>> throttle.
>>
>> Absolute refusal to tick over very much suggests a problem with fuel
>> flow in the idle 'circuit'. Which particular carb is it? Not a dual
>> stage normal/CV like the Teikei on XT600 or Gilera Nordwest is it? They
>> can be bastards, if left standing. But at least once started using the
>> appropriate technique[2] the beast will usually idle and run OK.
>
> It's a Kehin 40V, I had one of those dual stage things on my 600 Tenere, it always seemed to be a complicate way to do it. The bike had a period of disuse from 2008 to 2018 and has only done 30 miles since then.
>

I've found investing in dedicated ultrasonic bath carb cleaner fluid
used at recommended ratio is worth it, or a good slosh of Autoglym
engine and machine cleaner. I run mine at 50 degrees. Despite being a
cheap Chinese unit it hasn't burnt out yet. Only fault is I can no
longer change the bath temperature with the buttons. Should have gone
for a simpler non digital display one with knobs.

It could be a massive air leak, but I would have thought it could have
been coaxed in to running on choke then.

I had the dickens of a job with the twin Keihin CR33s when I first put
them on the 'race' Nordwest to replace the standard Teikei two stage
thing. Would just about start on full choke but not run unless 1/3
throttle. Had a look inside the carbs supplied by Allens. No idle jets -
at all!

A pity you can't borrow a 'known' good carb. It's amazing what engines
will tolerate at a fundamental just starting and running albeit badly
level. I first started the rebuilt Morini 350 (VHB 25 Dellortos) on the
22mm carbs from a 250. Started easily but was somewhat stifled as you
might expect. The Dellorto on the Gilera 98 was in a very bad state and
to prove that it was the problem I put on a new dirt cheap Chinese pit
bike carb that happened to have nearly the right flange fitting and
similar bore size. I had to elongate the flange screw holes to get it
on, yet on whatever jets it came with it started first kick. That
problem turned out to be an utterly shagged needle jet in the Dellorto.
So worn it was resulting in super rich mixture even at idle.

<Googles> Ah that looks a rather complicated carb.

I bet there's a new knock off copy of something that would work
available for less than 50 quid - though jetting it would be a learning
curve. Is there a FX650 forum or FB page to seek alternative solutions?

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

> I bet there's a new knock off copy of something that would work
> available for less than 50 quid - though jetting it would be a learning
> curve. Is there a FX650 forum or FB page to seek alternative solutions?

It seems that Harleys use a similar carb, so I have bought a knock off copy for £50 as you suggest, but it's actually different in that it has a flange fitting to the head and the Vigor is a push fit into a rubber adaptor, and its got a different piston, so that's on it's way bach now.
There is an FX 650 forum, there are a few posts about carbs, but nothing useful and a few , mostly mercans flogging replacement flat slide carbs, but ther are spendy and in the USA so I'm not doing that yet.
The engine is the same as the FMX 650 and I've found a TRF member with one so I may be able to try his, but as I've found a used FX one I'll try that first.
A possible complication is that it seems there is a sort of exhast gas recirculation system of some sort that's been removed and blanked off and some blanked vac pipes on the carb, they are blanked off and not leaking air, but I'm suspicious of this. I did question this on the forum and responses were that it wouldn't make any difference and most people remove the pipes. This is the sort of forum speak of which I am suspicious as I doubt the technical credentials of people who just rip bits off their bikes.

--
Speedgazebo

Pete Fisher <peter@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote:

> I've found investing in dedicated ultrasonic bath carb cleaner fluid
> used at recommended ratio is worth it, or a good slosh of Autoglym
> engine and machine cleaner. I run mine at 50 degrees. Despite being a
> cheap Chinese unit it hasn't burnt out yet. Only fault is I can no
> longer change the bath temperature with the buttons. Should have gone
> for a simpler non digital display one with knobs.

I also bought one of those cheap Chinese ultrasonic bath carb cleaners.
It's big enough to fit a full rack of 4 carbs and seems to work
well enough.

However, while it has a digital temperature readout, and it heats up,
there is no way to control the temperature, despite it having the +
and - controls present on the panel.

I contacted the seller and they admitted that the buttons don't do
anything, and offered to give me a 50% refund, if I agreed to keep it
vs. having them pay for return shipping and a 100% refund. I agreed
to that, but I'm still a bit cheesed off, because I do want to be
able to control the temperature, not just watch it continue to rise
uncontrolled so long as the heater is on.

I also would be perfectly happy with an analog knob (Fnaar) that works,
rather than digital controls that don't work.

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao

On 23/01/2022 01:22, crn@nospam.com wrote:
> Speedgazebo MOTP #1 <nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Speedgazebo
>>>>> Did you completely strip down the carb first? IME Japanses carbs have
>>>>> lots of tiny fuel passages and you need to take all the removable
>>>>> gubbins out before dunking the body in the bath. SWMBO's CB250 Nighthawk
>>>>> never ran properly until I gave it that treatment.
>>>>>
>>>> I did, every removeable bit removed. I've just put it in for another go, again striped bare.
>>> New diaphram.
>>
>> Unfortunately unavailable. But I'm not convinced it's the issue.
>
> Unlikely to be the cause of bad starting, it sounds like you have an air
> leak somewhere. A sloppy or possbly perforated diaphram will however
> cause serious bad running issues.
> Try googling the part number for the diaphram, it will be a part for
> several other bikes and you might get lucky.

I'm unfamiliar with the bike but I was also going to say air leak is
favourite. Maybe also check any related vacuum pipes - like ones that
may go to the fuel tap etc? If they are not connected they need to be
sealed :-)

HTH, Chris

--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

On Sun, 23 Jan 2022 11:40:17 -0000 (UTC), Mark Olson
<olsonm@tiny.invalid> wrote:

>I contacted the seller and they admitted that the buttons don't do
>anything, and offered to give me a 50% refund, if I agreed to keep it
>vs. having them pay for return shipping and a 100% refund.

I had this once, having bought an Android (car nav/media) head unit,
which when it arrived (shipped from Hong Kong, IIRC) wasn't Android.
Cheaky fuckers tried the same trick with me, asking if I'd accept 50%
back, even though it was clearly as much use to me as a chocolate
teapot.

I refused and demanded a full refund, even though it was only 50 Euros
or so, which I eventually got - one of the good things about buying on
Amazon c/w Alibaba and the like - but they still weren't interested in
having the old one back. Prolly still kicking around somewhere.

I dread to think how low their profit margins must be, cutting prices
such that the shipping and handling of a return would probably cost
them significantly more than the product did in the first place.

--
Ace
http://www.chaletbeauroc.com/

Ace <Ace@ch.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 23 Jan 2022 11:40:17 -0000 (UTC), Mark Olson
> <olsonm@tiny.invalid> wrote:
>
>>I contacted the seller and they admitted that the buttons don't do
>>anything, and offered to give me a 50% refund, if I agreed to keep it
>>vs. having them pay for return shipping and a 100% refund.
>
> I had this once, having bought an Android (car nav/media) head unit,
> which when it arrived (shipped from Hong Kong, IIRC) wasn't Android.
> Cheaky fuckers tried the same trick with me, asking if I'd accept 50%
> back, even though it was clearly as much use to me as a chocolate
> teapot.

I'd say my situation was a bit different, as the unit actually did most
of what I *needed* it to do, but not 100% what I *wanted* it to do.

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao

On 23/01/2022 13:40, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:

> I'm unfamiliar with the bike but I was also going to say air leak is
> favourite. Maybe also check any related vacuum pipes - like ones that
> may go to the fuel tap etc?  If they are not connected they need to be
> sealed :-)
>
> HTH, Chris
>

A long shot. Try a much 'softer' plug. The 'race' Nordwest could be a
bugger to get going in cold weather. Would turn over but not fire, or
just the odd fart, then occasional 'natural' KSB.

Two grades softer on the plug and it was a pussycat.

There was an underlying reason for that, which I eventually traced to
the rotor/ignition sender clearance though.

Worth a try, as IIRC that would fire up on Bradex Easy Start - for a
while at least.

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

On Monday, 24 January 2022 at 07:19:58 UTC, Pete Fisher wrote:
> On 23/01/2022 13:40, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>
> > I'm unfamiliar with the bike but I was also going to say air leak is
> > favourite. Maybe also check any related vacuum pipes - like ones that
> > may go to the fuel tap etc? If they are not connected they need to be
> > sealed :-)
> >
> > HTH, Chris
> >
> A long shot. Try a much 'softer' plug. The 'race' Nordwest could be a
> bugger to get going in cold weather. Would turn over but not fire, or
> just the odd fart, then occasional 'natural' KSB.
>
> Two grades softer on the plug and it was a pussycat.
>
> There was an underlying reason for that, which I eventually traced to
> the rotor/ignition sender clearance though.
>
> Worth a try, as IIRC that would fire up on Bradex Easy Start - for a
> while at least.

Fixed. Well, not actually fixed, but sorted with a s/h carb. Put it on and it started and ran fine almost straight away. The original one now looks so shiny you could wear it as bling but it doesn't work. The replacement looks like shit but works fine. I'll take it off and give it a squirt of carb cleaner and then I can get it MOT'ed.
Thanks for the comments even if eventually it was an issued solved by replacement rather than repair.

--
Speedgazebo

On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:30:39 -0800 (PST), "Speedgazebo MOTP #1"
<nickaird@gmail.com> wrote:

>Fixed. Well, not actually fixed, but sorted with a s/h carb.

>Put it on and it started and ran fine almost straight away.

>Thanks for the comments even if eventually it was an issued solved by replacement rather than repair.

No, that's definitely *fixed* :-)
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old