On 24/11/2022 10:20, alan_m wrote:
> On 24/11/2022 10:00, Davidm wrote:
>
>
>> I always tie a bit of rope around the window casement and the other
>> end to something solid inside the room, just in case of a mishap when
>> removing or refitting!
>
> After the first mishap, I can remember always tying a bit of string to a
> spring when servicing the back brakes on a Mk3 Cortina to prevent said
> spring from disappearing into the distance when extended fully it
> slipped from the jaw of long nose pliers :)
>
Ah a BIG pingfuckit
--
"Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will
let them."

> It looks like the overhanging outer metal frame of the casement covers
> the lower screws, but if this is a Velux, does the casement hinge
> and rotate about its mid point ?. If so does anything cover those
> two top screws when the window is closed ?.
>
> If not, then those screws and the metal 'tab' that is bent
> over just below them are points of weakness.
>
> I would search the internet and locate the manufacturers
> full installation instructions and see how it was meant
> to be done.
>
> An external photo of the whole window taken from the
> outside with the window closed would help, but unless
> you can take the glass out or borrow a drone then
> this is tricky.

I'm pretty sure nothing covers them. The attic room has two Velux windows and luckily the side that's leaking on the one faces the other one so I just leaned out of it to try and get the best shot of the leaking window closed and it looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/QZPio2A.jpg

I've labelled where the screw is and you can see the dimple in the frame which is also visible here: https://i.imgur.com/I47m5BJ.jpg

But I presume any water that enters that screw hole drops onto the plate that runs underneath...

On 24/11/2022 12:37, Darrell Blake wrote:
>> It looks like the overhanging outer metal frame of the casement covers
>> the lower screws, but if this is a Velux, does the casement hinge
>> and rotate about its mid point ?. If so does anything cover those
>> two top screws when the window is closed ?.
>>
>> If not, then those screws and the metal 'tab' that is bent
>> over just below them are points of weakness.
>>
>> I would search the internet and locate the manufacturers
>> full installation instructions and see how it was meant
>> to be done.
>>
>> An external photo of the whole window taken from the
>> outside with the window closed would help, but unless
>> you can take the glass out or borrow a drone then
>> this is tricky.
>
> I'm pretty sure nothing covers them. The attic room has two Velux windows and luckily the side that's leaking on the one faces the other one so I just leaned out of it to try and get the best shot of the leaking window closed and it looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/QZPio2A.jpg
>
> I've labelled where the screw is and you can see the dimple in the frame which is also visible here: https://i.imgur.com/I47m5BJ.jpg
>
> But I presume any water that enters that screw hole drops onto the plate that runs underneath...

This video looks like it could be the Velux installation
instructions for your window, *excpet* the lower screws
are not shown. Did the builder add his own or use two
screws that were intended to secure the hood ?.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgJkwFKgrYQ

Also refer to this video which is even more useful -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY7LxqAH5KQ

There is no mention of fitting those two lower screws.
I suspect the builder incorrectly drilled holes for the
two lower screws and used a pair of 30mm stainless screws
intended for other parts of the installation. It looks
like the side flashing should only be held in place with
those fold-down tabs.

If this the case you are stuffed. The only solution is
to wait for dry weather and put a big glob of black
neutral cure silicon over the heads of all exposed
screws that are holding the side and hood flashing
into position.

Also, note that the correct installation should have
incorporated a water deflector, (6:48) set at a slight
downwards slope about 20 cm above the top of the
window frame to deflect any water that gets under
the files and runs down the underfelt. If this is
missing and rain water is blown *under* the tiles
then this might be why you get water inside sometimes.

You can remove the entire sash according to those
videos by depressing a button near the hinge and
stand on a chair and push back the tiles above
the window to check for the presence of this rain
deflector.

> This video looks like it could be the Velux installation
> instructions for your window, *excpet* the lower screws
> are not shown. Did the builder add his own or use two
> screws that were intended to secure the hood ?.
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgJkwFKgrYQ
>
> Also refer to this video which is even more useful -
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY7LxqAH5KQ
>
> There is no mention of fitting those two lower screws.
> I suspect the builder incorrectly drilled holes for the
> two lower screws and used a pair of 30mm stainless screws
> intended for other parts of the installation. It looks
> like the side flashing should only be held in place with
> those fold-down tabs.
>
> If this the case you are stuffed. The only solution is
> to wait for dry weather and put a big glob of black
> neutral cure silicon over the heads of all exposed
> screws that are holding the side and hood flashing
> into position.
>
> Also, note that the correct installation should have
> incorporated a water deflector, (6:48) set at a slight
> downwards slope about 20 cm above the top of the
> window frame to deflect any water that gets under
> the files and runs down the underfelt. If this is
> missing and rain water is blown *under* the tiles
> then this might be why you get water inside sometimes.
>
> You can remove the entire sash according to those
> videos by depressing a button near the hinge and
> stand on a chair and push back the tiles above
> the window to check for the presence of this rain
> deflector.

That's excellent, thanks! I think the second one is my window because the model number (according to the plate that's on the underside of the window) says GGLC04. It looks to me like the screws are meant to be there, though, because there's actual recesses in the plate for the screws to go into. It doesn't look like the plate's been drilled through. Regardless, I might just try and wait for the weather to dry out and then seal the screw heads anyway. I'm not going to know if it is that until I at least try it.

On 25/11/2022 09:52, Darrell Blake wrote:
>> This video looks like it could be the Velux installation
>> instructions for your window, *excpet* the lower screws
>> are not shown. Did the builder add his own or use two
>> screws that were intended to secure the hood ?.
>>
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgJkwFKgrYQ
>>
>> Also refer to this video which is even more useful -
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY7LxqAH5KQ
>>
>> There is no mention of fitting those two lower screws.
>> I suspect the builder incorrectly drilled holes for the
>> two lower screws and used a pair of 30mm stainless screws
>> intended for other parts of the installation. It looks
>> like the side flashing should only be held in place with
>> those fold-down tabs.
>>
>> If this the case you are stuffed. The only solution is
>> to wait for dry weather and put a big glob of black
>> neutral cure silicon over the heads of all exposed
>> screws that are holding the side and hood flashing
>> into position.
>>
>> Also, note that the correct installation should have
>> incorporated a water deflector, (6:48) set at a slight
>> downwards slope about 20 cm above the top of the
>> window frame to deflect any water that gets under
>> the files and runs down the underfelt. If this is
>> missing and rain water is blown *under* the tiles
>> then this might be why you get water inside sometimes.
>>
>> You can remove the entire sash according to those
>> videos by depressing a button near the hinge and
>> stand on a chair and push back the tiles above
>> the window to check for the presence of this rain
>> deflector.
>
> That's excellent, thanks! I think the second one is my window because the model number (according to the plate that's on the underside of the window) says GGLC04. It looks to me like the screws are meant to be there, though, because there's actual recesses in the plate for the screws to go into. It doesn't look like the plate's been drilled through. Regardless, I might just try and wait for the weather to dry out and then seal the screw heads anyway. I'm not going to know if it is that until I at least try it.

As your original posts show the loose screws means that the metal bits
are not fixed tightly to the wood frame underneath so just covering the
screw heads now is not going to stop water getting in anywhere along the
length of of that frame. Originally water may have entered via the
screw head because of a bad initial assembly but now you may have a
secondary problem now that the screws can no longer grip into the wood.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

> As your original posts show the loose screws means that the metal bits
> are not fixed tightly to the wood frame underneath so just covering the
> screw heads now is not going to stop water getting in anywhere along the
> length of of that frame. Originally water may have entered via the
> screw head because of a bad initial assembly but now you may have a
> secondary problem now that the screws can no longer grip into the wood.

Yeah, that's a good point. I'm probably going to have to use one of your inital solutions with the rotten wood hardener too. At least if I do that and then seal the screw heads and water is still coming in then I'll know that it was a red herring all along.

I would contact Velux directly and ask for help/advice. In my (limited)
experience, their support line is excellent. As an example, recently
they replaced four glazed panels which were manufactured in 2003, under
a recall scheme. Send them your photos and see what they say.

On 23/11/2022 10:20, Darrell Blake wrote:
> During the heavy rain last week one of the Velux windows in my daughter's attic bedroom started to leak. I've had a quick look at it and there's clear signs of water getting under a metal bar on the right hand side and has rotted away a screw hole over time allowing the bar to loosen and then let in more water. I think that's what's happened, anyway.
>
> Is this something I can fix myself? Ideally I'd like to fill the screw hole to allow me to screw the bar down properly again, maybe with some sealant to try and stop it happening again. I've spoken to a few window repair companies in the area but they all only replace Velux windows, they don't repair. Moreover, it's in the roof of a four storey town house so they'd have to get scaffolding up so it wouldn't be cheap and with the cost of living at the moment we're just not in a position to afford that.
>
> I need some way to fix it from the inside myself, really, which severly limits what I'm able to do. Also, with it constantly raining the weather isn't on my side to give me time for the wood to dry out or anything. I know that ultimately it needs fixing properly or replacing, I'm just trying to come up with a temporary measure that can tide us over until we are in a better position to afford it. And it'll stop my daughter from complaining that she has kitchen roll jammed in the window frame :D I did try replacing the screw with a slightly longer one temporarily to try and hold the bar better but I think the hole is too rotten.
>
> Here's a picture of the metal bar which I've unscrewed at the bottom so you can see the rotten hole (this is about as far as I can lift the bar up from the inside too): https://i.imgur.com/UKTe1h0.jpg
>
> I also recorded a couple of videos whilst trying to diagnose the problem which might give some more info:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jWopGo8tEo
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D1rQWZmHu8
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

> I would contact Velux directly and ask for help/advice. In my (limited)
> experience, their support line is excellent. As an example, recently
> they replaced four glazed panels which were manufactured in 2003, under
> a recall scheme. Send them your photos and see what they say.

Yeah, I will. They might even be able to point towards a local company who will actually be willing to repair it.