The home being a bungalow.

Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
to get air to move around the place ?

Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
get a tiny trickle ?

Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
the house help.

Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
solution.

Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> The home being a bungalow.
>
> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?

First question: why is there a difference? Is it one end is south facing
(ie solar gain)? More electricial appliances? Better insulated?

Or just that your radiators aren't properly balanced?

> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?

Yes, a few people have tried that:
https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/27198-fan-assisted-radiators/
Makes the rad slightly more efficient at the cost of parts and noise.
> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.
>
> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> solution.

I think you need to understand what the problem actually is before throwing
things at fixing it.

Theo

On 04/12/2022 13:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
> The home being a bungalow.

So is ours.

> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?

Only 3°C? Ours is 4 - 5, but then we have a log-burning stove in the
lounge, and that keeps us as warm as toast and the wireless stat in the
lounge doesn't turn the heating on, so all the rads remain cold. I let
the stove burn out around 9pm, and then put the stat in our bedroom so
the rad there comes on. It's warm enough in time for bed. Sure, it's a
bit cold in the kitchen, but we aren't in there for long and any cooking
can soon warm it up.

Is there any reason you need to heat the bungalow all through? If so,
then there would appear to be an imbalance in the rads, and/or the
insulation in the loft is a lot thinner at the cold end of the bungalow.

> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.

No doubt, but it might also create a draft - air moving one way means it
has to enter the fan by moving from somewhere else.

> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> solution.

Or you could temporarily use a fan heater for the times you actually
need to be in the "cold" part of the house.

--

Jeff

On 04/12/2022 13:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
> The home being a bungalow.
>
> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?

It is probably better to rebalance the radiators so that you even out
the temperatures. Moving air tends to be perceived as a draft!

It has to be quite a bit above ambient before it feels warm.
>
> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?

Bleeding any radiators that are cold at the top is the other obvious one.

> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.

Figuring out why different bits are at different temperatures would be
my first suggestion. Adding insulated heat reflectors down the back of
any radiators on outside walls can only help warm the room.

My wood burning stove has a TEC powered fan on top which runs because of
the huge temperature difference between the stove and the warm air above
it. The net effect is to move very warm air out of the inglenook around
the stove where it would otherwise stagnate getting hotter and hotter.

I was surprised quite how much of a difference it made.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> The home being a bungalow.
>
> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.
>
> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> solution.
>

Do you want the whole house at the same temperature? As a general ‘rule’ (
note quotes) bedrooms should be slightly cooler for example than sitting
rooms. Before the days of radiator thermostatic valves, this was ( in
theory) entirely achieved by having larger radiators in some rooms than
others and balancing the system.

Thermostatic rad valves refined this idea, allowing for personal taste.

Smart / Wi-Fi rad valves further refine the idea, including for example,
not heating bedrooms during the day and perhaps the sitting room first
thing in the morning.

There are also zone valves, you could split the house into areas to be
heated at different times.

We have a Hive system and dumb rad thermostatic valves. Plus we turn of the
rads in the rooms we don’t use, except when we have visitors etc.

By careful tweaking*, I’ve reduced the gas use by about 25 to 30% and we
are still comfortable. I recently tweaked the flow temp. I’ve not noticed a
drop in comfort but it is too early to judge consumption.

* on/off times, main temp, and rad settings etc.

On Sun, 04 Dec 2022 13:23:58 +0000, Jethro_uk wrote:

> The home being a bungalow.
>
> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.
>
> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> solution.

Thanks for all the replies. Here's a mass reply back :)

House shape is an "L" - not sure what that does to heat distribution.

Radiators are all bled.

+Will check the balancing. I have an IR point & shoot thermometer for hot
things (not a clinical one). Is that good enough ?+

We had the whole place insulated under a grant in 2005 - cavity wall and
extra loft. Can that degrade ?

Radiators have backing.

Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
valves.

Jethro_uk wrote:

> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?

Surely if you use a fan to move warm air from the hot end to the cold end,
you'll just cause the hot end to cool down and need extra heating?

On Sunday, 4 December 2022 at 14:07:49 UTC, Theo wrote:
> Jethro_uk <jeth...@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> > The home being a bungalow.
> >
> > Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> > heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> > to get air to move around the place ?

if you want to even the temp, the solution is normally to fix the heating. If for some reason that's unworkable, moving air around is done with fans, but a fan makes the air feel colder, increasing the cost of feeling comfortable.

> First question: why is there a difference? Is it one end is south facing
> (ie solar gain)? More electricial appliances? Better insulated?
>
> Or just that your radiators aren't properly balanced?
>
> > Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> > get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Yes, a few people have tried that:
> https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/27198-fan-assisted-radiators/
> Makes the rad slightly more efficient at the cost of parts and noise.

I've done it a few times. It increases rad output a bit, no way is it going to move air from one room to another. It doesn't improve efficiency significantly, though I expect if all rads got a fan it would slightly by dropping the return temp. It also reduces temp behind the rad, causing a slight heat loss reduction, but these effects are small.

> > Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> > the house help.

it would help you feel colder.

> > Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> > solution.

why would you need those?

> I think you need to understand what the problem actually is before throwing
> things at fixing it.

absolutely.

On 04/12/2022 16:02, Jethro_uk wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Dec 2022 13:23:58 +0000, Jethro_uk wrote:
>
>> The home being a bungalow.
>>
>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>
>> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
>> get a tiny trickle ?
>>
>> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
>> the house help.
>>
>> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
>> solution.
>
> Thanks for all the replies. Here's a mass reply back :)
>
> House shape is an "L" - not sure what that does to heat distribution.
>
> Radiators are all bled.
>
> +Will check the balancing. I have an IR point & shoot thermometer for hot
> things (not a clinical one). Is that good enough ?+

Should be provided that you don't have any fancy mirror or metallic
finish ones. Any colour of paint pigment is black in the thermal band.

> We had the whole place insulated under a grant in 2005 - cavity wall and
> extra loft. Can that degrade ?
>
> Radiators have backing.
>
> Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
> don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
> valves.

The other option if you are prepared to get a plumber in is to split the
heating system into 2 zones. Typically daytime and night time
configurations that allow you to control where actually gets heated.

Smart valves might do what you want provided that there is a bypass -
otherwise for radiators that are in series it could have unintended
consequences.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 04/12/2022 16:17, Animal wrote:
> On Sunday, 4 December 2022 at 14:07:49 UTC, Theo wrote:
>> Jethro_uk <jeth...@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
>>> The home being a bungalow.
>>>
>>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>>> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> if you want to even the temp, the solution is normally to fix the heating.

A better, long term solution is identify why there is a temperature
difference and fix it with effective insulation (which at some
point becomes cost negative)

On 04/12/2022 14:44, Jeff Layman wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 13:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
>> The home being a bungalow.
>
> So is ours.
>
>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> Only 3°C? Ours is 4 - 5, but then we have a log-burning stove in the
> lounge, and that keeps us as warm as toast and the wireless stat in the
> lounge doesn't turn the heating on, so all the rads remain cold. I let
> the stove burn out around 9pm, and then put the stat in our bedroom so
> the rad there comes on. It's warm enough in time for bed. Sure, it's a
> bit cold in the kitchen, but we aren't in there for long and any cooking
> can soon warm it up.
>
> Is there any reason you need to heat the bungalow all through? If so,
> then there would appear to be an imbalance in the rads, and/or the
> insulation in the loft is a lot thinner at the cold end of the bungalow.
>

Bungalows tend to have a poor perimeter to area calculation which
means increased heat loss from that 1 metre wide strip of floor
that follows the perimeter external walls. Even worse if assorted
ad-hoc extensions have been added over the years.

If your bungalow is also on sloping land such that ~half of it has
many courses of exposed brickwork *below* the dpc + facing north or
east then you have a significant flooring heat loss too. If it was
built with solid/screeded floors then triple whammy heatloss.

On 04/12/2022 15:03, Martin Brown wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 13:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
>> The home being a bungalow.
>>
>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> It is probably better to rebalance the radiators so that you even out
> the temperatures. Moving air tends to  be perceived as a draft!
>
> It has to be quite a bit above ambient before it feels warm.
>>
>> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
>> get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Bleeding any radiators that are cold at the top is the other obvious one.
>
>> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
>> the house help.
>
> Figuring out why different bits are at different temperatures would be
> my first suggestion. Adding insulated heat reflectors down the back of
> any radiators on outside walls can only help warm the room.

A conservative councillor came in for a lot of stick when she made that
claim on ??GB news recently. She seemed to think that it would solve
all the energy problems.

If you have solid and uninsulated external walls and the radiator is on
an external wall then that reflective stuff reduces the heat *loss*
through the wall, but only if it was behind the radiator and extended
up the wall too. This is not the same as 'warming up' the room.

If the walls have cavities which are insulated then the benefits of
this stuff are minimal (which probably explains why the sheds don't
seem to sell this stuff as much as they used to).

On 04/12/2022 15:04, Brian wrote:
> Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
>> The home being a bungalow.
>>
>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>
>> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
>> get a tiny trickle ?
>>
>> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
>> the house help.
>>
>> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
>> solution.
>>
>
> Do you want the whole house at the same temperature? As a general ‘rule’ (
> note quotes) bedrooms should be slightly cooler for example than sitting
> rooms. Before the days of radiator thermostatic valves, this was ( in
> theory) entirely achieved by having larger radiators in some rooms than
> others and balancing the system.
>
> Thermostatic rad valves refined this idea, allowing for personal taste.
>

BBC "Inside Health" podcast 1-Nov-2022

"How can a cold home affect your health?"

17:30 Interviewee -

"Women prefer the thermostat set to 23C, so they
should have control of it".

Interviewer -
"That's Hot !, That should bring comfort to at least
half the population"

Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Dec 2022 13:23:58 +0000, Jethro_uk wrote:
>
> > The home being a bungalow.
> >
> > Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> > heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> > to get air to move around the place ?
> >
> > Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> > get a tiny trickle ?
> >
> > Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> > the house help.
> >
> > Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> > solution.
>
> Thanks for all the replies. Here's a mass reply back :)
>
> House shape is an "L" - not sure what that does to heat distribution.

More external walls means more losses. Does the cool part have more wall
area or face north?

> Radiators are all bled.
>
> +Will check the balancing. I have an IR point & shoot thermometer for hot
> things (not a clinical one). Is that good enough ?+

Should be, although I'd put some black tape on the pipes to avoid
reflectivity affecting the readings.

Note that the point of balancing is to adjust the kW going into the room, so
if you have too little kW coming out of the radiator it won't be able to
keep up with the losses from the room. While a starting point is to balance
for a particular temp difference from flow to return, the point of which is
to avoid one room hogging all the heat, really what you want is to control
the kW so all rooms are at the same baseline temp even though they have
different losses. If the room is cold even with the TRV full on, maybe you
want to open the lockshield a bit so you get more flow through the rad.

> We had the whole place insulated under a grant in 2005 - cavity wall and
> extra loft. Can that degrade ?

Not unless it's got damp, which I would only expect if you had roof
problems.

> Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
> don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
> valves.

Do you have TRVs? A TRV will allow you to adjust the temperatures of rooms
individually.

A smart TRV will allow you to do that electronically. I could see two use
cases for that - one is if you want to change temperatures across the day
(eg warm in the daytime, cool at night) at a more fine-grained level than
just tweaking the main thermostat. The other is if adjusting mechanical
TRVs is awkward, eg if you can't lean down to twist them.

For a lot of people they just want rooms at an unchanging temperature
(living room warm, bedroom cooler, spare room barely heated) and the smart
TRV is overkill, because it can be done by properly balancing the rad, a
regular TRV and the main thermostat. No need to throw extra tech at it
unless those won't do what you want.

Theo

On 04/12/2022 17:52, Andrew wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 14:44, Jeff Layman wrote:
>> On 04/12/2022 13:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
>>> The home being a bungalow.
>>
>> So is ours.
>>
>>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>
>> Only 3°C? Ours is 4 - 5, but then we have a log-burning stove in the
>> lounge, and that keeps us as warm as toast and the wireless stat in the
>> lounge doesn't turn the heating on, so all the rads remain cold. I let
>> the stove burn out around 9pm, and then put the stat in our bedroom so
>> the rad there comes on. It's warm enough in time for bed. Sure, it's a
>> bit cold in the kitchen, but we aren't in there for long and any cooking
>> can soon warm it up.
>>
>> Is there any reason you need to heat the bungalow all through? If so,
>> then there would appear to be an imbalance in the rads, and/or the
>> insulation in the loft is a lot thinner at the cold end of the bungalow.
>>
>
> Bungalows tend to have a poor perimeter to area calculation which
> means increased heat loss from that 1 metre wide strip of floor
> that follows the perimeter external walls. Even worse if assorted
> ad-hoc extensions have been added over the years.

But then they don't have that internal chimney, better known as a
staircase, where all the ground floor heat disappears up the stairs into
the bedrooms!

> If your bungalow is also on sloping land such that ~half of it has
> many courses of exposed brickwork *below* the dpc + facing north or
> east then you have a significant flooring heat loss too. If it was
> built with solid/screeded floors then triple whammy heatloss.

Although we are on a slope, the slope is down to the west (where there
is a garage), and the front is to the south.

--

Jeff

On 04/12/2022 16:02, Jethro_uk wrote:
> Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
> don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
> valves.

You are the smart. All you need is a (thermostatic?) valve to shut down
areas not needing heat.

--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

On 4 Dec 2022 at 17:45:49 GMT, Andrew wrote:

> On 04/12/2022 16:17, Animal wrote:
>> On Sunday, 4 December 2022 at 14:07:49 UTC, Theo wrote:
>>> Jethro_uk <jeth...@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
>>>> The home being a bungalow.
>>>>
>>>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>>>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>>>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>
>> if you want to even the temp, the solution is normally to fix the heating.
>
> A better, long term solution is identify why there is a temperature
> difference and fix it with effective insulation (which at some
> point becomes cost negative)

Agreed - although the gross benefits (comfort, environmental, stress, etc.)
may benefit things out a little more.
--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

On 4 Dec 2022 at 16:45:11 GMT, Martin Brown wrote:

>> +Will check the balancing. I have an IR point & shoot thermometer for hot
>> things (not a clinical one). Is that good enough ?+
>
> Should be provided that you don't have any fancy mirror or metallic
> finish ones. Any colour of paint pigment is black in the thermal band.

Not much, but colour can make a difference:

https://www.thermoworks.com/emissivity-table/
--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

On 04/12/2022 18:00, Andrew wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 15:03, Martin Brown wrote:

>> Figuring out why different bits are at different temperatures would be
>> my first suggestion. Adding insulated heat reflectors down the back of
>> any radiators on outside walls can only help warm the room.
>
> A conservative councillor came in for a lot of stick when she made that
> claim on ??GB news recently. She seemed to think that it would solve
> all the energy problems.

It won't solve them but it will stop the radiators thermal footprint
being visible on the outside wall. Every little helps.

> If you have solid and uninsulated external walls and the radiator is on
> an external wall then that reflective stuff reduces the heat *loss*
> through the wall, but only if it was behind the radiator and extended
> up the wall too. This is not the same as 'warming up' the room.

It is good enough to have it behind the radiator. A lot of radiators are
on external walls traditionally in front of the windows so that warm air
ends up going up behind the curtains unless you are careful.

It makes not one jot of difference to a radiator on an internal wall.

> If the walls have cavities which are insulated then the benefits of
> this stuff are minimal (which probably explains why the sheds don't
> seem to sell this stuff as much as they used to).

I'd say less. But my walls are all solid stone or three courses of
handmade Victorian engineering brick so it does work for me. A fair
proportion of houses from the Victorian era are solid wall.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Dec 2022 13:23:58 +0000, Jethro_uk wrote:
>
>> The home being a bungalow.
>>
>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>
>> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
>> get a tiny trickle ?
>>
>> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
>> the house help.
>>
>> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
>> solution.
>
> Thanks for all the replies. Here's a mass reply back :)
>
> House shape is an "L" - not sure what that does to heat distribution.
>
> Radiators are all bled.
>
> +Will check the balancing. I have an IR point & shoot thermometer for hot
> things (not a clinical one). Is that good enough ?+
>
>

I’ve not had much joy using an IR thermometer on pipes. I suspect the
‘sensor area’ averages and includes the pipe and the area behind, giving a
lower reading.

You could, perhaps, use the corner of the rad near the valve / exit but it
is probably less accurate.

A couple of thermocouples and clamps with a cheap meter?

On 05/12/2022 10:48, RJH wrote:
> On 4 Dec 2022 at 17:45:49 GMT, Andrew wrote:
>
>> On 04/12/2022 16:17, Animal wrote:
>>> On Sunday, 4 December 2022 at 14:07:49 UTC, Theo wrote:
>>>> Jethro_uk <jeth...@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
>>>>> The home being a bungalow.
>>>>>
>>>>> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
>>>>> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
>>>>> to get air to move around the place ?
>>>
>>> if you want to even the temp, the solution is normally to fix the heating.
>>
>> A better, long term solution is identify why there is a temperature
>> difference and fix it with effective insulation (which at some
>> point becomes cost negative)
>
> Agreed - although the gross benefits (comfort, environmental, stress, etc.)
> may benefit things out a little more.

Insulation unless its infinite, will not fix temperature differentials.
My living room is SE facing and gets sun all day, its boiling in summer
if I dont close the curtains, whereas my NW facing workshop is
wonderfully cool

--
“Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere, may be happy.”

H.L. Mencken, A Mencken Chrestomathy

In article <tmklc3$7b6$2@gioia.aioe.org>,
Martin Brown <'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk> wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 18:00, Andrew wrote:
> > On 04/12/2022 15:03, Martin Brown wrote:

> >> Figuring out why different bits are at different temperatures would be
> >> my first suggestion. Adding insulated heat reflectors down the back of
> >> any radiators on outside walls can only help warm the room.
> >
> > A conservative councillor came in for a lot of stick when she made that
> > claim on ??GB news recently. She seemed to think that it would solve
> > all the energy problems.

> It won't solve them but it will stop the radiators thermal footprint
> being visible on the outside wall. Every little helps.

> > If you have solid and uninsulated external walls and the radiator is on
> > an external wall then that reflective stuff reduces the heat *loss*
> > through the wall, but only if it was behind the radiator and extended
> > up the wall too. This is not the same as 'warming up' the room.

> It is good enough to have it behind the radiator. A lot of radiators are
> on external walls traditionally in front of the windows so that warm air
> ends up going up behind the curtains unless you are careful.

> It makes not one jot of difference to a radiator on an internal wall.

> > If the walls have cavities which are insulated then the benefits of
> > this stuff are minimal (which probably explains why the sheds don't
> > seem to sell this stuff as much as they used to).

> I'd say less. But my walls are all solid stone or three courses of
> handmade Victorian engineering brick so it does work for me. A fair
> proportion of houses from the Victorian era are solid wall.

and later, my house in Georgian (George Vian) and has solid walls.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Well how big are the rooms and what is the output of the heaters warming
them. Also of course which have north facing walls and how good is the
insulation. One does need to take a lot of things into account.
In answer to the questions, I doubt any of the quick fixes will work as
once you have temperature differences you get draughts, like the one
dropping from the window I have behind me now.
Brian

--

--:
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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
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"Jethro_uk" <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote in message
news:tmi71d$2b9ba$12@dont-email.me...
> The home being a bungalow.
>
> Noticing a 3C differential between ends of the house, and not wanting to
> heat one end at ludicrous energy prices, what's most cost effective way
> to get air to move around the place ?
>
> Did I imagine someone here talked of using PC CPU fans on radiators to
> get a tiny trickle ?
>
> Alternatively would an oscillating fan in the warmer (or colder) part of
> the house help.
>
> Also looking at WiFi radiator valves, but they are the more premium
> solution.

On 05/12/2022 10:09, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 04/12/2022 16:02, Jethro_uk wrote:
>> Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
>> don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
>> valves.
>
> You are the smart. All you need is a (thermostatic?) valve to shut down
> areas not needing heat.
>
>

Not when there is a female who 'needs' 23C+

On Monday, 5 December 2022 at 18:41:40 UTC, Andrew wrote:
> On 05/12/2022 10:09, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> > On 04/12/2022 16:02, Jethro_uk wrote:
> >> Being the 2 of us (just SWMBO during the day) there are whole rooms that
> >> don't need the same level of heating. Hence the vague idea of smart
> >> valves.
> >
> > You are the smart. All you need is a (thermostatic?) valve to shut down
> > areas not needing heat.
> >
> >
> Not when there is a female who 'needs' 23C+
The solution to that is a dummy (disconnected) thermostat, preferably with an audible click, for her to play with while the real one is out of sight.