On 03/02/2022 15:02, Dave Brown wrote:
> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 1:34:22 PM UTC, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>> On 02/02/2022 17:24, sweller wrote:
>>> ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>>>
>>>>> I think it's to do with older engines that use materials not
>>>>> compatible with Ethanol, such as brass inside carbs, plastic or
>>>>> rubber parts that soften and/or swell.
>>>>>
>>>> Brass and ethanol? Is that really a problem?
>>>
>>> The E10 fuel is hygroscopic and the water it collects corrodes the
>>> brass, apparently.
>>>
>>> Only really a problem if you leave the vehicle unused for long periods.
>>>
>>> Personally I don't think it's any greater problem than leaving a
>>> vehicle with E5 in the carbs. Most classic vehicle unreliability
>>> problems are down to not being used.
>>>
>> Fairy snuff
>> I won't worry then, ta
>> Chris
>
>
> Just in case anyone still trusts the guvmint. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol
Yes thanks, I saw that - both of mine came back basically "Not sure,
contact the manufacturer" :-/
I'll just keep running them, checking the rubbery bits for perishment...
and see what happens...

Chris

--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

ChrisND @UKRM wrote:

> > I think it's to do with older engines that use materials not
> > compatible with Ethanol, such as brass inside carbs, plastic or
> > rubber parts that soften and/or swell.
> >
> Brass and ethanol? Is that really a problem?

Apparently not - I checked with the guy who rebuilt the Alvis engine
(98 years old) and he said it would make no difference whatsoever.

--
"There's nothing more dangreous than a resourceful idiot"

On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 3:45:15 PM UTC, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
> On 03/02/2022 15:02, Dave Brown wrote:
> > On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 1:34:22 PM UTC, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
> >> On 02/02/2022 17:24, sweller wrote:
> >>> ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>> I think it's to do with older engines that use materials not
> >>>>> compatible with Ethanol, such as brass inside carbs, plastic or
> >>>>> rubber parts that soften and/or swell.
> >>>>>
> >>>> Brass and ethanol? Is that really a problem?
> >>>
> >>> The E10 fuel is hygroscopic and the water it collects corrodes the
> >>> brass, apparently.
> >>>
> >>> Only really a problem if you leave the vehicle unused for long periods.
> >>>
> >>> Personally I don't think it's any greater problem than leaving a
> >>> vehicle with E5 in the carbs. Most classic vehicle unreliability
> >>> problems are down to not being used.
> >>>
> >> Fairy snuff
> >> I won't worry then, ta
> >> Chris
> >
> >
> > Just in case anyone still trusts the guvmint. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol
> Yes thanks, I saw that - both of mine came back basically "Not sure,
> contact the manufacturer" :-/
> I'll just keep running them, checking the rubbery bits for perishment...
> and see what happens...
> Chris

Ditto, I haven't used it in the Bogno due to lot's reports of poor fuel consumption and rough running and it being over populated with 30 year old Japanese rubber.
Being a 2.5L V6 it goes rather well on the Super, and coming from a cage that could only use super, it's not really a bother - bar the price of fuel.

On 04/02/2022 09:36, Dave Brown wrote:
> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 3:45:15 PM UTC, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>> On 03/02/2022 15:02, Dave Brown wrote:
>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 1:34:22 PM UTC, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>>>> On 02/02/2022 17:24, sweller wrote:
>>>>> ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> I think it's to do with older engines that use materials not
>>>>>>> compatible with Ethanol, such as brass inside carbs, plastic or
>>>>>>> rubber parts that soften and/or swell.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Brass and ethanol? Is that really a problem?
>>>>>
>>>>> The E10 fuel is hygroscopic and the water it collects corrodes the
>>>>> brass, apparently.
>>>>>
>>>>> Only really a problem if you leave the vehicle unused for long periods.
>>>>>
>>>>> Personally I don't think it's any greater problem than leaving a
>>>>> vehicle with E5 in the carbs. Most classic vehicle unreliability
>>>>> problems are down to not being used.
>>>>>
>>>> Fairy snuff
>>>> I won't worry then, ta
>>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>> Just in case anyone still trusts the guvmint. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol
>> Yes thanks, I saw that - both of mine came back basically "Not sure,
>> contact the manufacturer" :-/
>> I'll just keep running them, checking the rubbery bits for perishment...
>> and see what happens...
>> Chris
>
> Ditto, I haven't used it in the Bogno due to lot's reports of poor fuel consumption and rough running and it being over populated with 30 year old Japanese rubber.
> Being a 2.5L V6 it goes rather well on the Super, and coming from a cage that could only use super, it's not really a bother - bar the price of fuel.
>

A's Mazda 2 is claimed to be E10 compatible. It usually gets that so I
can't comment on any significant difference when running on E5. The 3's
and the 6 seemed to definitely go better on 'super' but that was when
there was very little En about.

I run all the PTWs on E5, including the 2019 MY Husky (E10 OK according
to sticker). The most likely to be effected would in theory be the 37
Sunbeam. That has a copper fuel line, so no issue. I did have trouble
with the tap even using E5. Cork inserts seemed to shrink more than they
should and the tap ended up oozing and dribbling (well it is nearly 85
years old). I treated it to a new tap with ethanol proof sealing which
has fixed it. Not in the slightest correct period appearance, but the
bike is far from patina originality.

The Amal carb is 'monkey metal' with a brass jet block. The separate
float chamber was flooding with the original float, but probably more to
do with float needle valve seat wear. Treated it to a new plastic float
and brass? needle and it has been fine.

Ethanol does seem to seek out any weakness in fuel systems. The tank has
only ever had E5 (Esso for choice) in it, but the patches applied by
whoever 'refurbished' it (lovely paint Job TBF) literally came unstuck.
No idea what 'glue' had been used (yes - should have been welded or
silver soldered on) but it softened when in E5 for just a few weeks.

JBWeld 'steelstik' has held now for 3 months.

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

Dave Brown <browniebrownz@googlemail.com> wrote in
news:0a41eb97-a5d0-4fe2-bc79-3c1c59bbce6an@googlegroups.com:

> Ditto, I haven't used it in the Bogno due to lot's reports of poor
> fuel consumption and rough running and it being over populated with 30
> year old Japanese rubber. Being a 2.5L V6 it goes rather well on the
> Super, and coming from a cage that could only use super, it's not
> really a bother - bar the price of fuel.
>

that V6 motor is lovely. Mine was in a 1993 MX6 auto. Lovely car but at the
time I was doing regular runs to see my kid in Bedhampton. I thought it was
getting costly to run then, and changed it for a small hatchback in Dec
2000. I'd hate to run a car that only did 27mpg at best, nowadays.

My S1000XR makes similar power but on a run to Hampshire, sticking to
mostly legal speeds, would return twice the mpg. Drops a tad if you keep
the revs at 8-10k, mind. Then, running costs would soon drop whilst you did
18 months on the naughty step.

On 04/02/2022 10:26, Pete Fisher wrote:
> Ethanol does seem to seek out any weakness in fuel systems. The tank has
> only ever had E5 (Esso for choice) in it, but the patches applied by
> whoever 'refurbished' it (lovely paint Job TBF) literally came unstuck.
> No idea what 'glue' had been used (yes - should have been welded or
> silver soldered on) but it softened when in E5 for just a few weeks.
>
> JBWeld 'steelstik' has held now for 3 months.
>
In my yoof I had a Reliant van (eyes glaze over with nostalgia) with a
slight leak on the tank. After several attempts, a pin head sized piece
of chewing gun stopped the leak for long enough for some metal mender to
set which was followed up by glass epoxy resin and some manky black
paint to hide it all. The repair outlived the van.

HTH, Chris

--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

On 03/02/2022 17:00, Buzby wrote:
> ChrisND @UKRM wrote:
>
>>> I think it's to do with older engines that use materials not
>>> compatible with Ethanol, such as brass inside carbs, plastic or
>>> rubber parts that soften and/or swell.
>>>
>> Brass and ethanol? Is that really a problem?
>
> Apparently not - I checked with the guy who rebuilt the Alvis engine
> (98 years old) and he said it would make no difference whatsoever.
>
Swot I thought - taking into account sweller's comment up there^ about
corrosion of course.

Chris

--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:40:28 PM UTC, wessie wrote:
> Dave Brown <browni...@googlemail.com> wrote in
> news:0a41eb97-a5d0-4fe2...@googlegroups.com:
> > Ditto, I haven't used it in the Bogno due to lot's reports of poor
> > fuel consumption and rough running and it being over populated with 30
> > year old Japanese rubber. Being a 2.5L V6 it goes rather well on the
> > Super, and coming from a cage that could only use super, it's not
> > really a bother - bar the price of fuel.
> >
> that V6 motor is lovely. Mine was in a 1993 MX6 auto. Lovely car but at the
> time I was doing regular runs to see my kid in Bedhampton. I thought it was
> getting costly to run then, and changed it for a small hatchback in Dec
> 2000. I'd hate to run a car that only did 27mpg at best, nowadays.
>

That V6 is smoother than a peach smoothie dipped in KY jelly, you can balance a coin on the cam cover (horizontally). I had the Tesco value half price version in a MX-3 (V6 24V 1.8i) which was delightful, if a little underpowered for a hot hatch.

The Bogno is just screaming out for cruise control to keep it at wallet friendly speeds on the motorway/peáge. They do a kit - but it's a bit wallet busting.

Dave Brown <browniebrownz@googlemail.com> wrote in
news:13b58358-ed99-4cb6-b439-fb8a39185f01n@googlegroups.com:

> On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:40:28 PM UTC, wessie wrote:

> That V6 is smoother than a peach smoothie dipped in KY jelly, you can
> balance a coin on the cam cover (horizontally). I had the Tesco value
> half price version in a MX-3 (V6 24V 1.8i) which was delightful, if a
> little underpowered for a hot hatch.
>
> The Bogno is just screaming out for cruise control to keep it at
> wallet friendly speeds on the motorway/peáge. They do a kit - but
> it's a bit wallet busting.
>

the MX6 was my first (and only) auto and first car with cruise control -
still struggled to get 30mpg

lacked aircon so you had to use the hole in the roof, electric of course

ChrisND @UKRM <chrisnd@privacy.net> wrote:
> On 04/02/2022 10:26, Pete Fisher wrote:
>> Ethanol does seem to seek out any weakness in fuel systems. The tank has
>> only ever had E5 (Esso for choice) in it, but the patches applied by
>> whoever 'refurbished' it (lovely paint Job TBF) literally came unstuck.
>> No idea what 'glue' had been used (yes - should have been welded or
>> silver soldered on) but it softened when in E5 for just a few weeks.
>>
>> JBWeld 'steelstik' has held now for 3 months.
>>
> In my yoof I had a Reliant van (eyes glaze over with nostalgia) with a
> slight leak on the tank. After several attempts, a pin head sized piece
> of chewing gun stopped the leak for long enough for some metal mender to
> set which was followed up by glass epoxy resin and some manky black
> paint to hide it all. The repair outlived the van.

JB Weld- what it can't fix, isn't worth fixing.

IME it is absolutely brilliant. Fuel and oil resistant to the
greatest degree. I've used it to plug a hole in a Ford Mondeo
transmission. Slathered a bolt with it and stuffed it in a degreased
hole. Lasted for the couple more years I owned the car and I suspect
it's still sealing great (in the scrapyard).

I used JB Weld to make/mend a fuel line adapter to join together
a couple of mismatched diameter pieces of fuel line on a VF500F. I
was concerned about whether it could withstand continuous exposure to
petrol but I needn't have worried. Holed stator cover or clutch cover?
Degrease, apply JB Weld, never worry about it again. I've also repaired
side cover nubbies (not sure what they're officially called) that
plug into the rubber grommets on the frame. Broken indicator stalk?
JB Weld it together.

I keep at least a couple of packages of it lying about the house and
garage at all times, as well as some JB Kwik for jobs where you can't
wait the full 24 hours. I've also got some of the JB Weld SteelStik
which I haven't yet used in anger.

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao

On 04/02/2022 17:17, Mark Olson wrote:

> I keep at least a couple of packages of it lying about the house and
> garage at all times, as well as some JB Kwik for jobs where you can't
> wait the full 24 hours. I've also got some of the JB Weld SteelStik
> which I haven't yet used in anger.
>

It works very well but 'goes off' quite quickly so you need to work fast
getting it in place and smoothed out if applicable. It seems even more
petrol resistant than the two tubes 'liquid' version.

--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera 175 Sport, Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen
1937 Sunbeam Model 14 250 Sports
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"

Pete Fisher <peter@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> On 04/02/2022 17:17, Mark Olson wrote:
>
>> I keep at least a couple of packages of it lying about the house and
>> garage at all times, as well as some JB Kwik for jobs where you can't
>> wait the full 24 hours. I've also got some of the JB Weld SteelStik
>> which I haven't yet used in anger.
>>
>
> It works very well but 'goes off' quite quickly so you need to work fast
> getting it in place and smoothed out if applicable. It seems even more
> petrol resistant than the two tubes 'liquid' version.

Good to know!

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao