I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
horses in.

I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
supporting a 4" x 2" rail.

For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
are suitable trees.

However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)

So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
wooden strut to it.

The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).

Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
tent peg that could well work.

--
Chris Green
·

On Sun, 19 Feb 2023 11:16:56 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

>
>The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
>steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
>and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>
>Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
>peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
>pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
>tent peg that could well work.

Old iron bed frames are made of that sort of sized angle iron, if you
can get them from your local scrappie. Whoever owned my previous
property before me used them extensively.

--
Chris

In message <82d9cj-75pe.ln1@esprimo.zbmc.eu>, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net>
writes
>I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
>many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
>doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
>rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
>horses in.
>
>I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
>refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
>supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
>
>For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
>difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
>struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
>are suitable trees.
>
>However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
>and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
>
>So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
>some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
>problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
>doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
>To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
>2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
>needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
>grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
>wooden strut to it.
>
>The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
>steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
>and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>
>Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
>peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
>pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
>tent peg that could well work.

My grazing tenant uses galvanised steel strainer posts for his electric
fencing. I'll ask where he gets them.

We had a thread on fencing way back. My view is that you need to
increase the area of post in contact with soft soils. Only easy when
first fitting the posts. Dig a hole using a *shuv-holer* or similar.
Insert post and backfill with tamped broken rubble.

I'll bet your horses are scratching their arses on the fence. Strand of
barbed wire cures that:-)
>
>

--
Tim Lamb

On 19/02/2023 11:16, Chris Green wrote:
> I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> horses in.
>
> I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
>
> For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> are suitable trees.
>
> However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
>
> So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
> To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> wooden strut to it.
>
> The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>
> Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> tent peg that could well work.
>
>
Howsabout digging a larger hole, attaching battens to the bottom of the
post on one side and just below ground level on the opposite side. Put
the post in the ground such that the top batten is on the side away from
the expected load. Add small hardcore and Postcrete to taste. I did that
here when fencing across an area of sandy soil and it has worked well
(admittedly, it hasn't had to withstand a hungry or excited horse).

On 2/19/2023 6:16 AM, Chris Green wrote:
> I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> horses in.
>
> I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
>
> For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> are suitable trees.
>
> However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
>
> So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
> To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> wooden strut to it.
>
> The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>
> Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> tent peg that could well work.

There's always a post hole digger. It depends on how many you
can dig per hour, as to whether it is cheaper than trying to
use metals to shore up the posts (fence spike).

https://www.teamtractor.com/blog/using-your-tractors-pto-post-hole-digger-to-install-a-fence--29926

Even metal stock is dearly priced, so you can't even buy metals
and weld up your own fence spike design. Still too expensive.
When I price metals here, a metal bar costs as much as a similarly
sized finished-good. Ridiculous.

The previous city I lived in, had a metal supply (iron monger but
with a city slicker name), and if you wanted better rates on metals
than you could get at a builder merchant, that's where you would go.
That's where I would attempt to get lengths of angle. When you're
driving the angle, you want the right adapter to fit over the top while driving it.
As otherwise, your sledge will deform the end. If the angle is
large enough in size, wear hearing protection while driving it :-)
That's for the swearing.

Paul

Horses? You say electric fences work? Why are you then bothering with ad hoc
fences which when a horse leans on it will break.

Brian

--

--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
briang1@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Chris Green" <cl@isbd.net> wrote in message
news:82d9cj-75pe.ln1@esprimo.zbmc.eu...
>I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> horses in.
>
> I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
>
> For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> are suitable trees.
>
> However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
>
> So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
> To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> wooden strut to it.
>
> The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>
> Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> tent peg that could well work.
>
>
> --
> Chris Green
> �

Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Feb 2023 11:16:56 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> >steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> >and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
> >
> >Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> >peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> >pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> >tent peg that could well work.
>
> Old iron bed frames are made of that sort of sized angle iron, if you
> can get them from your local scrappie. Whoever owned my previous
> property before me used them extensively.
>
Good idea, yes, thanks!

--
Chris Green
·

Brian Gaff <brian1gaff@gmail.com> wrote:
> Horses? You say electric fences work? Why are you then bothering with ad hoc
> fences which when a horse leans on it will break.
>
Because keeping an electric fence working in undergrowth etc. below
trees isn't practical.

The existing D-I-Y 'post and rail' has worked pretty well for 20 years
or so, it just needs some maintenance! :-)

--
Chris Green
·

Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:
> On 2/19/2023 6:16 AM, Chris Green wrote:
> > I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> > many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> > doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> > rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> > horses in.
> >
> > I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> > refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> > supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
> >
> > For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> > difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> > struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> > are suitable trees.
> >
> > However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> > and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
> >
> > So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> > some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> > problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> > doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
> >
> > To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> > 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> > needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> > grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> > wooden strut to it.
> >
> > The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> > steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> > and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
> >
> > Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> > peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> > pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> > tent peg that could well work.
>
> There's always a post hole digger. It depends on how many you
> can dig per hour, as to whether it is cheaper than trying to
> use metals to shore up the posts (fence spike).
>
> https://www.teamtractor.com/blog/using-your-tractors-pto-post-hole-digger-to-install-a-fence--29926
>
>
> Even metal stock is dearly priced, so you can't even buy metals
> and weld up your own fence spike design. Still too expensive.
> When I price metals here, a metal bar costs as much as a similarly
> sized finished-good. Ridiculous.
>
Yes, metal (steel) is becoming ridiculously expensive isn't it!

Post hole digger isn't practical even though I have a suitable
tractor, the ground is simply too loose and tractor access very
difficult due to trees.

--
Chris Green
·

Tim Lamb <tim@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In message <82d9cj-75pe.ln1@esprimo.zbmc.eu>, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net>
> writes
> >I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> >many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> >doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> >rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> >horses in.
> >
> >I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> >refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> >supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
> >
> >For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> >difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> >struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> >are suitable trees.
> >
> >However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> >and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
> >
> >So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> >some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> >problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> >doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
> >
> >To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> >2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> >needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> >grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> >wooden strut to it.
> >
> >The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> >steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> >and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
> >
> >Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> >peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> >pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> >tent peg that could well work.
>
> My grazing tenant uses galvanised steel strainer posts for his electric
> fencing. I'll ask where he gets them.
>
I suspect that they will be quite expensive.

> We had a thread on fencing way back. My view is that you need to
> increase the area of post in contact with soft soils. Only easy when
> first fitting the posts. Dig a hole using a *shuv-holer* or similar.
> Insert post and backfill with tamped broken rubble.
>
Yes, the bigger the better. However digging a hole is somewhat
difficult in the area concerned, it's dry and loose so holes don't
stay as holes, plus there's lots of undergrowth and roots etc. to
fight your way through. Thus knocking a post in plus knocking
something in to support a strut is rather more attractive than
'digging a hole'. :-)

> I'll bet your horses are scratching their arses on the fence. Strand of
> barbed wire cures that:-)

It already has an electric wire to discourage them.

--
Chris Green
·

nothanks@aolbin.com wrote:
> On 19/02/2023 11:16, Chris Green wrote:
> > I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> > many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> > doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> > rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> > horses in.
> >
> > I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> > refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> > supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
> >
> > For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> > difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> > struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> > are suitable trees.
> >
> > However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> > and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
> >
> > So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> > some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> > problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> > doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
> >
> > To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> > 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> > needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> > grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> > wooden strut to it.
> >
> > The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> > steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> > and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
> >
> > Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> > peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> > pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> > tent peg that could well work.
> >
> >
> Howsabout digging a larger hole, attaching battens to the bottom of the
> post on one side and just below ground level on the opposite side. Put
> the post in the ground such that the top batten is on the side away from
> the expected load. Add small hardcore and Postcrete to taste. I did that
> here when fencing across an area of sandy soil and it has worked well
> (admittedly, it hasn't had to withstand a hungry or excited horse).

As I commented to a previous post 'digging a hole' in this area is an
exercise in frustration.

--
Chris Green
·

On Sunday, 19 February 2023 at 15:48:08 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
> noth...@aolbin.com wrote:
> > On 19/02/2023 11:16, Chris Green wrote:
> > > I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
> > > many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
> > > doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
> > > rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
> > > horses in.
> > >
> > > I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
> > > refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
> > > supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
> > >
> > > For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
> > > difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
> > > struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where there
> > > are suitable trees.
> > >
> > > However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
> > > and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
> > >
> > > So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level, i.e.
> > > some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
> > > problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
> > > doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
> > >
> > > To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
> > > 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
> > > needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
> > > grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix a
> > > wooden strut to it.
> > >
> > > The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
> > > steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
> > > and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
> > >
> > > Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
> > > peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
> > > pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
> > > tent peg that could well work.
> > >
> > >
> > Howsabout digging a larger hole, attaching battens to the bottom of the
> > post on one side and just below ground level on the opposite side. Put
> > the post in the ground such that the top batten is on the side away from
> > the expected load. Add small hardcore and Postcrete to taste. I did that
> > here when fencing across an area of sandy soil and it has worked well
> > (admittedly, it hasn't had to withstand a hungry or excited horse).
> As I commented to a previous post 'digging a hole' in this area is an
> exercise in frustration.

The way forward is to look at the options & decide which is most practical. None will give you all you want.
Some options:
post driven in deep by machine - access problem. Would an SDS-max be any use?
thin profile post driven in by hand - mfr cost. ask for scrap steel on freebie lists?
large hole filled with crete - labour
And finally, a large heavy base above ground. Bang post into ground enough to keep it upright, surround with shuttering ply, pour a big crete base.

In message <gur9cj-a8mf.ln1@esprimo.zbmc.eu>, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net>
writes
>Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2023 11:16:56 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> >
>> >The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x 40mm
>> >steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's expensive
>> >and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>> >
>> >Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
>> >peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all tent
>> >pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
>> >tent peg that could well work.
>>
>> Old iron bed frames are made of that sort of sized angle iron, if you
>> can get them from your local scrappie. Whoever owned my previous
>> property before me used them extensively.
>>
>Good idea, yes, thanks!

There's these..

https://mcveighparker.com/fencing/triple-x-fencing/clipex-posts?gclid=Cj0
KCQiArsefBhCbARIsAP98hXSEExWWPXzjfTEoiGuA05eawOq9B-wKhUkjvvT0lIuF8LL6ih4q
LOwaAn-vEALw_wcB
>

--
Tim Lamb

On Sunday, 19 February 2023 at 15:48:06 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
> Brian Gaff <brian...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Horses? You say electric fences work? Why are you then bothering with ad hoc
> > fences which when a horse leans on it will break.
> >
> Because keeping an electric fence working in undergrowth etc. below
> trees isn't practical.
>
> The existing D-I-Y 'post and rail' has worked pretty well for 20 years
> or so, it just needs some maintenance! :-)
>
> --
> Chris Green
> ·
A modicum of maintenance with a scythe a slasher or a knapsack sprayer of selective weedkiller works wonders.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 03:21:06 +1100, Animal <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Sunday, 19 February 2023 at 15:48:08 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
>> noth...@aolbin.com wrote:
>> > On 19/02/2023 11:16, Chris Green wrote:
>> > > I have a length of (sort of) post and rail fence which I constructed
>> > > many years ago along one side of our land where an electric fence
>> > > doesn't work too well (under trees, lots of undergrowth, etc.). The
>> > > rest of our land just has electric fencing. The fences are to keep
>> > > horses in.
>> > >
>> > > I am currently working my way along the fence, repairing and
>> > > refurbishing it. It consists basically of driven in wooden posts
>> > > supporting a 4" x 2" rail.
>> > >
>> > > For much of its length the ground is very soft and sandy and it's
>> > > difficult to get the posts firmly fixed. In many places I have run
>> > > struts from adjacent trees and this has worked pretty well where
>> there
>> > > are suitable trees.
>> > >
>> > > However there are some sections where there no trees strong enough
>> > > and/or trees have the same problems as my posts! :-)
>> > >
>> > > So I'm looking for some way to fix wooden struts at ground level,
>> i.e.
>> > > some sort of ground anchor that can be hammered into the ground. The
>> > > problem is that I simply can't find anything that's big enough and
>> > > doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>> > >
>> > > To get any sort of grip in the ground a stake needs to go at least
>> > > 2ft, preferably more so I need something at least that long. It also
>> > > needs to be quite fat, a thin steel 'rebar' post doesn't have enough
>> > > grip. The anchor also needs to have some reasonably easy way to fix
>> a
>> > > wooden strut to it.
>> > >
>> > > The best solution I've come up with so far is a length of 40mm x
>> 40mm
>> > > steel angle (I had a couple of bits lying around) but that's
>> expensive
>> > > and will, eventually, corrode (though it may well outlast me).
>> > >
>> > > Can anyone come up with a better/cheaper idea? A giant plastic tent
>> > > peg would probably work but I can't find anything like that, all
>> tent
>> > > pegs seem to be a maximum of 12" long. If I could find a 2ft long
>> > > tent peg that could well work.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > Howsabout digging a larger hole, attaching battens to the bottom of
>> the
>> > post on one side and just below ground level on the opposite side. Put
>> > the post in the ground such that the top batten is on the side away
>> from
>> > the expected load. Add small hardcore and Postcrete to taste. I did
>> that
>> > here when fencing across an area of sandy soil and it has worked well
>> > (admittedly, it hasn't had to withstand a hungry or excited horse).
>> As I commented to a previous post 'digging a hole' in this area is an
>> exercise in frustration.
>
> The way forward is to look at the options & decide which is most
> practical.

You quite sure you aint one of those rocket scientist animals ?

> None will give you all you want.

Thats silly apart from the price.

> Some options:
> post driven in deep by machine - access problem.

But not when driven with a kango hammer.

> Would an SDS-max be any use?

Unlikely.

> thin profile post driven in by hand - mfr cost. ask for scrap steel on
> freebie lists?

We have things called droppers, work fine in soil like that.

> large hole filled with crete - labour
> And finally, a large heavy base above ground. Bang post into ground
> enough to keep it upright, surround with shuttering ply, pour a big
> crete base.

John J <johnjessop46@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sunday, 19 February 2023 at 15:48:06 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
> > Brian Gaff <brian...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > Horses? You say electric fences work? Why are you then bothering with ad hoc
> > > fences which when a horse leans on it will break.
> > >
> > Because keeping an electric fence working in undergrowth etc. below
> > trees isn't practical.
> >
> > The existing D-I-Y 'post and rail' has worked pretty well for 20 years
> > or so, it just needs some maintenance! :-)
> >
> > --
> > Chris Green
> > ·
> A modicum of maintenance with a scythe a slasher or a knapsack sprayer
> of selective weedkiller works wonders.

It's not,in the main, weeds and other things that are growing. It's a
mess of dead elder trees, fallen trunks of old oak and elm trees, old
greenhouse frames, etc. Yes, ideally one would clear it properly, but
life's too short! :-)

--
Chris Green
·

On 20/02/2023 08:35, Chris Green wrote:
> It's not,in the main, weeds and other things that are growing. It's a
> mess of dead elder trees, fallen trunks of old oak and elm trees, old
> greenhouse frames, etc. Yes, ideally one would clear it properly, but
> life's too short! 😄

Can you use old greenhouse frames as posts?

Andy

Vir Campestris <vir.campestris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On 20/02/2023 08:35, Chris Green wrote:
> > It's not,in the main, weeds and other things that are growing. It's a
> > mess of dead elder trees, fallen trunks of old oak and elm trees, old
> > greenhouse frames, etc. Yes, ideally one would clear it properly, but
> > life's too short! 😄
>
> Can you use old greenhouse frames as posts?
>
I did take a look at some of them but they're not quite fat enough I
don't think.

--
Chris Green
·

Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
> Vir Campestris <vir.campestris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> On 20/02/2023 08:35, Chris Green wrote:
>>> It's not,in the main, weeds and other things that are growing. It's a
>>> mess of dead elder trees, fallen trunks of old oak and elm trees, old
>>> greenhouse frames, etc. Yes, ideally one would clear it properly, but
>>> life's too short! 😄
>>
>> Can you use old greenhouse frames as posts?
>>
> I did take a look at some of them but they're not quite fat enough I
> don't think.
>

Have you considered ground screws they are a bit pricey but no digging
required. They are mostly designed for beam support eg. Decking, garden
rooms, sheds, but can have posts attached instead

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PWU-Ground-Sleeve-Screw-Anchor/dp/B08VND32Z1/ref=asc_df_B08VND32Z1/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=501097570217&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18245912736046658640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006553&hvtargid=pla-1271726470030&th=1

Richard