On 25/02/2023 15:44, Paul wrote:
> On 2/21/2023 5:10 AM, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 16/02/2023 07:33, Paul wrote:
>>> On 2/15/2023 4:41 AM, pinnerite wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 14 Feb 2023 15:51:41 +0000
>>>> Sargan <rick_hughes@gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 11/02/2023 22:10, Paul wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Normally, you would look on the Sound Bar manufacturer
>>>>>> site, for hookup diagrams.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If a device has HDMI-In and HDMI-Out, then you can route to
>>>>>> the Sound Bar first, then run the HDMI-Out to the TV set.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> They give some examples of testing, here.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/390907/sound-via-hdmi-on-arch-linux
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      Paul
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Confirm my Soundbar has that ..... HDMIin and HDMIout as well as
>>>>> optical out
>>>>
>>>> Mine is a Kubik One.
>>>>
>>>> Only micro usb in,
>>>> two optical in,
>>>> L & R RCA out; and
>>>> Sub out whatever that is. looks like RCA).)
>>>>
>>>> :(
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>> Does the product line include a sub to go with it ?
>>>
>>> Here is a short discussion about the sub option.
>>>
>>> https://www.avforums.com/threads/sub-for-dali-kubik-soundbar.2074867/
>>>
>>> This is an example of a bottom-firing sub. 150W.
>>> You can set the cutoff frequency, so the bottom end of the Kubic
>>> meshes with the top end of the sub.
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.co.uk/BK-Subwoofers-Gemini-II-Black-Ash/dp/B00KGC0VII
>>>
>>> It's a box the cat can sleep on top of.
>>>
>>> The problem with subs, where the amp is integral to the speaker cabinet,
>>> is the amp runs hot because there's no cooling for it. This one could
>>> be Class-D though, so it won't be as inefficient as older amps. The
>>> capacitors inside units like this, are glued to one another, so the
>>> vibration from the sub, doesn't snap the legs off the caps. One of the
>>> failure modes, is the glue is actually conductive, and if it comes
>>> in contact with conductors inside the design, it can short stuff.
>>> (The glue ages when it is heated.)
>>
>> On ones like my Monolith DF, the amp is built on a large heatsink
>> which pokes out of the case:
>>
>> http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/monolith-df_Plus.htm
>>
>> It seems to run at most "warm" for AV use... (heavy music use might
>> push it harder).
>
> Some of the audio systems in cars, use two alternators for power.
> That's to make the panels on the car rattle a bit more.
>
> If your speaker is ported, that might double as an "air exchange"
> feature.

Yup mine (Monolith) is - but it is also a 300W amp!

> but the one above that runs at 150W, I didn't see a
> port on it. The poor amp must be frying in there.

I don't think the Gemini is ported... I would guess that is kind of the
spiritual successor to the compact form factor REL units like the Q-Bass
(the box is about 1ft^3)

(the designer at BK is the same chap who designed most of the REL subs -
I had a chat with him before I bought mine since I was trying to work
out if it was worth repairing my old Q-Bass (not really was the answer))

> Having fins on the back of the sub, at least gives the amp a chance.
>
> I did see a home sub that runs at 1200W. What are they thinking ???
> The cat won't be able to stay on top of that for too long.
:-)

--
Cheers,

John.

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