Was copying 80 GB from a sata drive to a usb hd and it crapped out, now
I can't even mount that usb drive. Usually if I do a fresh start the usb
drive becomes usable again, is there some solution?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-AXat2J-tQ

TheSidhe wrote:
> Was copying 80 GB from a sata drive to a usb hd and it crapped out, now
> I can't even mount that usb drive. Usually if I do a fresh start the usb
> drive becomes usable again, is there some solution?
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-AXat2J-tQ
>

Unmount, unplug and replug. Do /dev entries show
up for the device ?

If the device does not appear in the device tree,
or if "lsusb" does not show it, the drive may have
died altogether.

Alternately, that 2TB stick you bought for $15, isn't
really a 2TB stick, and is only a 32GB stick. And the
write cache ran out of room and that's when the transfer
stopped.

You don't mention exactly what this "USB hd" is.

Is it a hard drive in a USB enclosure ?

Is it a drive on a USB cable adapter ?

My suspicion is, this is a USB flash stick, and
there's a lot of fraud with those (goods not as
received, not fit for purpose).

https://www.amazon.ca/Flash-Drive-Memory-Stick-Storage/dp/B079BNB1DT?th=1

"DO NOT BUY THESE. THEY DO NOT WORK PROPERLY.
Reviewed in Canada on February 29, 2020

TRIED 5 TIMES TO COPY ABOUT 1.4T TO ONE OF THESE.
EPIC FAIL. COPYING RAN FOR OVER 24 HOURS AND THEN
FAILED — AND NEVER GOT OVER 6% FINISHED."

It's sad, but such posts rate a "No shit, Sherlock".
The drive costs $20 when it should cost $500+ .

If the storage device you bought is "too good to be true",
that explains it all.

Paul

On 5/23/21 6:34 PM, Paul wrote:
> TheSidhe wrote:
>> Was copying 80 GB from a sata drive to a usb hd and it crapped out,
>> now I can't even mount that usb drive. Usually if I do a fresh start
>> the usb drive becomes usable again, is there some solution?
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-AXat2J-tQ
>>
>
> Unmount, unplug and replug. Do /dev entries show
> up for the device ?
>
> If the device does not appear in the device tree,
> or if "lsusb" does not show it, the drive may have
> died altogether.
>
> Alternately, that 2TB stick you bought for $15, isn't
> really a 2TB stick, and is only a 32GB stick. And the
> write cache ran out of room and that's when the transfer
> stopped.
>
> You don't mention exactly what this "USB hd" is.
>
> Is it a hard drive in a USB enclosure ?
>
> Is it a drive on a USB cable adapter ?
>
> My suspicion is, this is a USB flash stick, and
> there's a lot of fraud with those (goods not as
> received, not fit for purpose).
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/Flash-Drive-Memory-Stick-Storage/dp/B079BNB1DT?th=1
>
>   "DO NOT BUY THESE. THEY DO NOT WORK PROPERLY.
>    Reviewed in Canada on February 29, 2020
>
>    TRIED 5 TIMES TO COPY ABOUT 1.4T TO ONE OF THESE.
>    EPIC FAIL. COPYING RAN FOR OVER 24 HOURS AND THEN
>    FAILED — AND NEVER GOT OVER 6% FINISHED."
>
> It's sad, but such posts rate a "No shit, Sherlock".
> The drive costs $20 when it should cost $500+ .
>
> If the storage device you bought is "too good to be true",
> that explains it all.
>
>    Paul
It is a spin type WD hd in a usb package, which I run through a powered
usb hub. The drive craps out, it does not show up in the device
tree-which I take to mean the Computer icon on the desktop screen. I did
power off the hub and unplugged it and gave it some time to cool of and
it still did not show up. I gave up on it for the day. In the morning I
tried it again, this time the drive did not auto mount-that is it did
not show in the device tree. My first thought was that the drive really
gave up the ghost, considering that it was purchased from amazon 2
months ago. What I did next was to use the gnome disks program and the
drive appeared in the list, so I did a file check and got the results
that the file system was damaged and needed repair, I performed the
repair and quit the Disks program, went back to the device tree and the
drive appeared, I then began my file copy process of the 80GB from the
sata hd to the usb drive, this time in smaller steps, 12GB at a time,
there are 7 directory each containing ~12GB, everything seems to be
going smoothly.

TheSidhe wrote:

> It is a spin type WD hd in a usb package, which I run through a powered
> usb hub. The drive craps out, it does not show up in the device
> tree-which I take to mean the Computer icon on the desktop screen. I did
> power off the hub and unplugged it and gave it some time to cool of and
> it still did not show up. I gave up on it for the day. In the morning I
> tried it again, this time the drive did not auto mount-that is it did
> not show in the device tree. My first thought was that the drive really
> gave up the ghost, considering that it was purchased from amazon 2
> months ago. What I did next was to use the gnome disks program and the
> drive appeared in the list, so I did a file check and got the results
> that the file system was damaged and needed repair, I performed the
> repair and quit the Disks program, went back to the device tree and the
> drive appeared, I then began my file copy process of the 80GB from the
> sata hd to the usb drive, this time in smaller steps, 12GB at a time,
> there are 7 directory each containing ~12GB, everything seems to be
> going smoothly.

OK, so there's a power limit involved here somewhere.

2.5" hard drives, draw 5V @ 1A when spinning up.
They may draw 5V @ 500mA or less, while writing.

They draw a lower current, while writing.

The problems sometimes come, if the drive decides to
spin down, part way through the transfer. When it
decides to spin up again, it draws 5V @ 1A and
that's enough to cause the Polyfuse on the computer
end to open up.

Removing power like that, is bad for file systems.
Normally, the file system would automatically be
fsck'ed at next session, when the hardware is
detected. If that fails to work, you can run
a command manually to do it.

There are lots of USB situations that involve
"not guaranteed powering". The configuration sometimes
works, and sometimes does not. This is hard on a HDD,
to be hammered by power failures all the time.

A USB3 port would have slightly more current to
offer to a 2.5" drive. On laptops, a "silicon chip"
is used for fusing, and has much tighter control
of current flow, and removes power with less hesitation
than a Polyfuse. The USB-C connector is not found on
a lot of drive adapters, but if it was, it should
solve the powering problem for 2.5" HDD.

Computer_Fuse DriveSpinup
USB2 TypeA 5V @ 500mA 1.1A 1A
USB3 TypeA 5V @ 900mA 2.0A??? 1A
USB-C 5V # 1500mA ??? 1A <=== should work

Paul

On 5/24/21 10:01 AM, Paul wrote:
> TheSidhe wrote:
>
>> It is a spin type WD hd in a usb package, which I run through a
>> powered usb hub. The drive craps out, it does not show up in the
>> device tree-which I take to mean the Computer icon on the desktop
>> screen. I did power off the hub and unplugged it and gave it some time
>> to cool of and it still did not show up. I gave up on it for the day.
>> In the morning I tried it again, this time the drive did not auto
>> mount-that is it did not show in the device tree. My first thought was
>> that the drive really gave up the ghost, considering that it was
>> purchased from amazon 2 months ago. What I did next was to use the
>> gnome disks program and the drive appeared in the list, so I did a
>> file check and got the results that the file system was damaged and
>> needed repair, I performed the repair and quit the Disks program, went
>> back to the device tree and the drive appeared, I then began my file
>> copy process of the 80GB from the sata hd to the usb drive, this time
>> in smaller steps, 12GB at a time, there are 7 directory each
>> containing ~12GB, everything seems to be going smoothly.
>
> OK, so there's a power limit involved here somewhere.
>
> 2.5" hard drives, draw 5V @ 1A when spinning up.
> They may draw 5V @ 500mA or less, while writing.
>
> They draw a lower current, while writing.
>
> The problems sometimes come, if the drive decides to
> spin down, part way through the transfer. When it
> decides to spin up again, it draws 5V @ 1A and
> that's enough to cause the Polyfuse on the computer
> end to open up.
>
> Removing power like that, is bad for file systems.
> Normally, the file system would automatically be
> fsck'ed at next session, when the hardware is
> detected. If that fails to work, you can run
> a command manually to do it.
>
> There are lots of USB situations that involve
> "not guaranteed powering". The configuration sometimes
> works, and sometimes does not. This is hard on a HDD,
> to be hammered by power failures all the time.
>
> A USB3 port would have slightly more current to
> offer to a 2.5" drive. On laptops, a "silicon chip"
> is used for fusing, and has much tighter control
> of current flow, and removes power with less hesitation
> than a Polyfuse. The USB-C connector is not found on
> a lot of drive adapters, but if it was, it should
> solve the powering problem for 2.5" HDD.
>
>                            Computer_Fuse   DriveSpinup
>    USB2 TypeA  5V @  500mA    1.1A          1A
>    USB3 TypeA  5V @  900mA    2.0A???       1A
>    USB-C       5V # 1500mA    ???           1A    <=== should work
>
>   Paul
My original question of resetting the usb function of the computer may
have to do with that "Polyfuse", keep in mind that I am using a powered
usb hub see:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XTKV8V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1..

tiny=https://is.gd/bc2hY1

It is a usb 3.0 hub plugged into a usb 3.0 port on the rear of the
computer. I am not sure if such an arrangement would beef up the power
source that the usb spin drive sees and thus taking the voltage load off
the computer end, thus voiding the possibility of the "Polyfuse"
opening. But I have successfully copied the files to the usb drive this
am but his seems to be a reoccurring problem for me and other than
rebooting the machine it would be nice if there was a terminal command
that would reset the usb function. Perhaps I am misunderstanding the
process because if the usb function of the computer fails or goes into
an open condition my usb keyboard and usb mouse would also experience
such a problem, which I have not noticed, so the problem may be drive
related. But thank you for your help.

TheSidhe wrote:
> On 5/24/21 10:01 AM, Paul wrote:
>> TheSidhe wrote:
>>
>>> It is a spin type WD hd in a usb package, which I run through a
>>> powered usb hub. The drive craps out, it does not show up in the
>>> device tree-which I take to mean the Computer icon on the desktop
>>> screen. I did power off the hub and unplugged it and gave it some
>>> time to cool of and it still did not show up. I gave up on it for the
>>> day. In the morning I tried it again, this time the drive did not
>>> auto mount-that is it did not show in the device tree. My first
>>> thought was that the drive really gave up the ghost, considering that
>>> it was purchased from amazon 2 months ago. What I did next was to use
>>> the gnome disks program and the drive appeared in the list, so I did
>>> a file check and got the results that the file system was damaged and
>>> needed repair, I performed the repair and quit the Disks program,
>>> went back to the device tree and the drive appeared, I then began my
>>> file copy process of the 80GB from the sata hd to the usb drive, this
>>> time in smaller steps, 12GB at a time, there are 7 directory each
>>> containing ~12GB, everything seems to be going smoothly.
>>
>> OK, so there's a power limit involved here somewhere.
>>
>> 2.5" hard drives, draw 5V @ 1A when spinning up.
>> They may draw 5V @ 500mA or less, while writing.
>>
>> They draw a lower current, while writing.
>>
>> The problems sometimes come, if the drive decides to
>> spin down, part way through the transfer. When it
>> decides to spin up again, it draws 5V @ 1A and
>> that's enough to cause the Polyfuse on the computer
>> end to open up.
>>
>> Removing power like that, is bad for file systems.
>> Normally, the file system would automatically be
>> fsck'ed at next session, when the hardware is
>> detected. If that fails to work, you can run
>> a command manually to do it.
>>
>> There are lots of USB situations that involve
>> "not guaranteed powering". The configuration sometimes
>> works, and sometimes does not. This is hard on a HDD,
>> to be hammered by power failures all the time.
>>
>> A USB3 port would have slightly more current to
>> offer to a 2.5" drive. On laptops, a "silicon chip"
>> is used for fusing, and has much tighter control
>> of current flow, and removes power with less hesitation
>> than a Polyfuse. The USB-C connector is not found on
>> a lot of drive adapters, but if it was, it should
>> solve the powering problem for 2.5" HDD.
>>
>> Computer_Fuse DriveSpinup
>> USB2 TypeA 5V @ 500mA 1.1A 1A
>> USB3 TypeA 5V @ 900mA 2.0A??? 1A
>> USB-C 5V # 1500mA ??? 1A <=== should work
>>
>> Paul
> My original question of resetting the usb function of the computer may
> have to do with that "Polyfuse", keep in mind that I am using a powered
> usb hub see:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XTKV8V
>
>
> tiny=https://is.gd/bc2hY1
>
> It is a usb 3.0 hub plugged into a usb 3.0 port on the rear of the
> computer. I am not sure if such an arrangement would beef up the power
> source that the usb spin drive sees and thus taking the voltage load off
> the computer end, thus voiding the possibility of the "Polyfuse"
> opening. But I have successfully copied the files to the usb drive this
> am but his seems to be a reoccurring problem for me and other than
> rebooting the machine it would be nice if there was a terminal command
> that would reset the usb function. Perhaps I am misunderstanding the
> process because if the usb function of the computer fails or goes into
> an open condition my usb keyboard and usb mouse would also experience
> such a problem, which I have not noticed, so the problem may be drive
> related. But thank you for your help.

Yes, your powered hub has a stout power supply, and that should
be enough to power a 2.5" HDD. The only way it would not work, is if
there were 900mA fuses on each connector. And since fuses cost money,
they are not likely to use them. Since the wall adapter has a 3 ampere limit,
they may choose to use the adapter current limit, as protection for
the ports.

Only the charging port guarantees 2.4A . The other ports, no specification
tells us what the available power is. To be standards compliant, it would
be 900mA. Intel writes technical documents for these people, telling them
to use a "larger" fuse for the port, but not everybody listens. For example,
on a 900mA port, they may select a 2000mA Polyfuse (green colored).

*******

You can get a power meter for a USB port. In your case, you want
the USB3 version. Not because the circuit has anything to do
with D+/D- or TX+/- RX+/- . These devices do not "touch" the
data signals, and just pass the data signals through. The device
only samples the VBUS conductors and attempts to measure the
current. Now, this one is too expensive, and you can shop around
and look for a slightly cheaper version of the same thing. They
tend to have similar display screens.

https://www.amazon.ca/MakerHawk-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07DK6FT4Q

Using such a device, you should see "1000mA" when the disk starts spinning
and "500mA" during write operations. The display will likely update around
once a second. It costs money to make those, but they're not
particularly sophisticated. There are no sigma-delta converters
in there or anything. It might be as crude as a dual slope integration
measurement circuit. Like they've been making for the last 20 or 30 years,
only miniaturized a bit.

Rene got one of those. I don't have one, so cannot comment on the
"goodness" of the circuit.

The difference between a USB3 meter of that type, and the USB2 meter
version, is the USB3 one has 9 wires on each connector, while the
USB2 one only has four wires on each connector. The power meter
is put "in series with" the USB peripheral. If VBUS is 5.2 volts on the
hub side, it might be 5.1 volts on the downstream side where the
peripheral plugs in. There will be a slight voltage drop across the
meter. This should not hurt anything.

*******

One other point about disk drives. They are voltage sensitive.
If the voltage drops too low, the disk will stop spinning on
purpose. On a desktop, if you use too many of those extension cables
for Molex power, a disk can stop spinning as a result. This means
there are two failure mechanisms

1) Drive draws more current than fuse rating, fuse opens...

2) Voltage to drive is a lot lower than 5V, drive stops spinning.
Then drive attempts to start spinning again, a moment later.

I've had (2) happen here, and the disks don't like that one bit.
The controller goes crazy and then you have to turn the power off
for a bit to allow them to recover. I removed some extension cables
for power, and the disks (which I'm using right now), have been
flawless ever since. No more problems.

But as for (1), I haven't had too many fuses open, because I use
drive enclosures with their own power adapter. I use 3.5" enclosures
for 2.5" drives. There are *still* power limits on those, and
those are not miracle-workers. The reason for this, is the wall
adapter provides only +12V, the +5V signal is locally regulated
on the enclosure PCB and that regulator has its own power limit
(which is not very high!). But so far, I haven't had a problem.

It's a good thing that bad engineering, is so readily available :-/ :-/

Paul

On 5/24/21 2:27 PM, Paul wrote:
> TheSidhe wrote:
>> On 5/24/21 10:01 AM, Paul wrote:
>>> TheSidhe wrote:
>>>
>>>> It is a spin type WD hd in a usb package, which I run through a
>>>> powered usb hub. The drive craps out, it does not show up in the
>>>> device tree-which I take to mean the Computer icon on the desktop
>>>> screen. I did power off the hub and unplugged it and gave it some
>>>> time to cool of and it still did not show up. I gave up on it for
>>>> the day. In the morning I tried it again, this time the drive did
>>>> not auto mount-that is it did not show in the device tree. My first
>>>> thought was that the drive really gave up the ghost, considering
>>>> that it was purchased from amazon 2 months ago. What I did next was
>>>> to use the gnome disks program and the drive appeared in the list,
>>>> so I did a file check and got the results that the file system was
>>>> damaged and needed repair, I performed the repair and quit the Disks
>>>> program, went back to the device tree and the drive appeared, I then
>>>> began my file copy process of the 80GB from the sata hd to the usb
>>>> drive, this time in smaller steps, 12GB at a time, there are 7
>>>> directory each containing ~12GB, everything seems to be going smoothly.
>>>
>>> OK, so there's a power limit involved here somewhere.
>>>
>>> 2.5" hard drives, draw 5V @ 1A when spinning up.
>>> They may draw 5V @ 500mA or less, while writing.
>>>
>>> They draw a lower current, while writing.
>>>
>>> The problems sometimes come, if the drive decides to
>>> spin down, part way through the transfer. When it
>>> decides to spin up again, it draws 5V @ 1A and
>>> that's enough to cause the Polyfuse on the computer
>>> end to open up.
>>>
>>> Removing power like that, is bad for file systems.
>>> Normally, the file system would automatically be
>>> fsck'ed at next session, when the hardware is
>>> detected. If that fails to work, you can run
>>> a command manually to do it.
>>>
>>> There are lots of USB situations that involve
>>> "not guaranteed powering". The configuration sometimes
>>> works, and sometimes does not. This is hard on a HDD,
>>> to be hammered by power failures all the time.
>>>
>>> A USB3 port would have slightly more current to
>>> offer to a 2.5" drive. On laptops, a "silicon chip"
>>> is used for fusing, and has much tighter control
>>> of current flow, and removes power with less hesitation
>>> than a Polyfuse. The USB-C connector is not found on
>>> a lot of drive adapters, but if it was, it should
>>> solve the powering problem for 2.5" HDD.
>>>
>>>                             Computer_Fuse   DriveSpinup
>>>     USB2 TypeA  5V @  500mA    1.1A          1A
>>>     USB3 TypeA  5V @  900mA    2.0A???       1A
>>>     USB-C       5V # 1500mA    ???           1A    <=== should work
>>>
>>>    Paul
>> My original question of resetting the usb function of the computer may
>> have to do with that "Polyfuse", keep in mind that I am using a
>> powered usb hub see: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XTKV8V
>>
>> tiny=https://is.gd/bc2hY1
>>
>> It is a usb 3.0 hub plugged into a usb 3.0 port on the rear of the
>> computer. I am not sure if such an arrangement would beef up the power
>> source that the usb spin drive sees and thus taking the voltage load
>> off the computer end, thus voiding the possibility of the "Polyfuse"
>> opening. But I have successfully copied the files to the usb drive
>> this am but his seems to be a reoccurring problem for me and other
>> than rebooting the machine it would be nice if there was a terminal
>> command that would reset the usb function. Perhaps I am
>> misunderstanding the process because if the usb function of the
>> computer fails or goes into an open condition my usb keyboard and usb
>> mouse would also experience such a problem, which I have not noticed,
>> so the problem may be drive related. But thank you for your help.
>
> Yes, your powered hub has a stout power supply, and that should
> be enough to power a 2.5" HDD. The only way it would not work, is if
> there were 900mA fuses on each connector. And since fuses cost money,
> they are not likely to use them. Since the wall adapter has a 3 ampere
> limit,
> they may choose to use the adapter current limit, as protection for
> the ports.
>
> Only the charging port guarantees 2.4A . The other ports, no specification
> tells us what the available power is. To be standards compliant, it would
> be 900mA. Intel writes technical documents for these people, telling them
> to use a "larger" fuse for the port, but not everybody listens. For
> example,
> on a 900mA port, they may select a 2000mA Polyfuse (green colored).
>
> *******
>
> You can get a power meter for a USB port. In your case, you want
> the USB3 version. Not because the circuit has anything to do
> with D+/D- or TX+/- RX+/- . These devices do not "touch" the
> data signals, and just pass the data signals through. The device
> only samples the VBUS conductors and attempts to measure the
> current. Now, this one is too expensive, and you can shop around
> and look for a slightly cheaper version of the same thing. They
> tend to have similar display screens.
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/MakerHawk-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07DK6FT4Q
>
>
> Using such a device, you should see "1000mA" when the disk starts spinning
> and "500mA" during write operations. The display will likely update around
> once a second. It costs money to make those, but they're not
> particularly sophisticated. There are no sigma-delta converters
> in there or anything. It might be as crude as a dual slope integration
> measurement circuit. Like they've been making for the last 20 or 30 years,
> only miniaturized a bit.
>
> Rene got one of those. I don't have one, so cannot comment on the
> "goodness" of the circuit.
>
> The difference between a USB3 meter of that type, and the USB2 meter
> version, is the USB3 one has 9 wires on each connector, while the
> USB2 one only has four wires on each connector. The power meter
> is put "in series with" the USB peripheral. If VBUS is 5.2 volts on the
> hub side, it might be 5.1 volts on the downstream side where the
> peripheral plugs in. There will be a slight voltage drop across the
> meter. This should not hurt anything.
>
> *******
>
> One other point about disk drives. They are voltage sensitive.
> If the voltage drops too low, the disk will stop spinning on
> purpose. On a desktop, if you use too many of those extension cables
> for Molex power, a disk can stop spinning as a result. This means
> there are two failure mechanisms
>
> 1) Drive draws more current than fuse rating, fuse opens...
>
> 2) Voltage to drive is a lot lower than 5V, drive stops spinning.
>    Then drive attempts to start spinning again, a moment later.
>
> I've had (2) happen here, and the disks don't like that one bit.
> The controller goes crazy and then you have to turn the power off
> for a bit to allow them to recover. I removed some extension cables
> for power, and the disks (which I'm using right now), have been
> flawless ever since. No more problems.
>
> But as for (1), I haven't had too many fuses open, because I use
> drive enclosures with their own power adapter. I use 3.5" enclosures
> for 2.5" drives. There are *still* power limits on those, and
> those are not miracle-workers. The reason for this, is the wall
> adapter provides only +12V, the +5V signal is locally regulated
> on the enclosure PCB and that regulator has its own power limit
> (which is not very high!). But so far, I haven't had a problem.
>
> It's a good thing that bad engineering, is so readily available :-/ :-/
>
>    Paul
I like that meter, hope it is large enough to read without a magnifying
glass:) Here is another one
https://www.amazon.ca/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=pd_bxgy_2/132-7240193-5003030?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JYVPLLJ&pd_rd_r=db37626a-fb76-49c1-95b5-dcda96bf0ee6&pd_rd_w=Ukacm&pd_rd_wg=tfE0F&pf_rd_p=67279b87-ccd3-46cd-8df4-d8c53edf84d3&pf_rd_r=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F&psc=1&refRID=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F

TheSidhe wrote:

> I like that meter, hope it is large enough to read without a magnifying
> glass:) Here is another one
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=pd_bxgy_2/132-7240193-5003030?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JYVPLLJ&pd_rd_r=db37626a-fb76-49c1-95b5-dcda96bf0ee6&pd_rd_w=Ukacm&pd_rd_wg=tfE0F&pf_rd_p=67279b87-ccd3-46cd-8df4-d8c53edf84d3&pf_rd_r=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F&psc=1&refRID=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F
>
>
> tiny=https://is.gd/cHloIS
>
> I am assuming that it is for usb3.0
> If I continue to experience problems I might invest in such a meter, it
> would be nice if it had an alarm to notify me of a voltage problem.

Well, basically, I'd want something to measure the current, because
you can tell from the current going too high, that the drive is
spinning down, and then spinning up again. If you're doing a long
disk transfer, that's not supposed to happen.

The voltage does not vary too much from the 5.0V value. Normally.

Paul

On 5/24/21 9:13 PM, Paul wrote:
> TheSidhe wrote:
>
>> I like that meter, hope it is large enough to read without a
>> magnifying glass:) Here is another one
>>
>> https://www.amazon.ca/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Indicator-DC3-6-30V/dp/B07JYVPLLJ/ref=pd_bxgy_2/132-7240193-5003030?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JYVPLLJ&pd_rd_r=db37626a-fb76-49c1-95b5-dcda96bf0ee6&pd_rd_w=Ukacm&pd_rd_wg=tfE0F&pf_rd_p=67279b87-ccd3-46cd-8df4-d8c53edf84d3&pf_rd_r=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F&psc=1&refRID=VNZP8KWMDDYWNPQ68B5F
>>
>>
>> tiny=https://is.gd/cHloIS
>>
>> I am assuming that it is for usb3.0
>> If I continue to experience problems I might invest in such a meter,
>> it would be nice if it had an alarm to notify me of a voltage problem.
>
> Well, basically, I'd want something to measure the current, because
> you can tell from the current going too high, that the drive is
> spinning down, and then spinning up again. If you're doing a long
> disk transfer, that's not supposed to happen.
>
> The voltage does not vary too much from the 5.0V value. Normally.
>
>    Paul
Right, the current, not the voltage, thanks