I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98

My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25

This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
the 3. ;-)

Who knew?

It might be supply and demand - you can't use MDO for wall/roof
sheathing when building a house. When we built our house, you could use
*only* plywood sheathing for roofs - we used OSB for everything else.

> Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of the
> 3. ;-)

but not water resistant.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2021 18:07:07 -0400, DJ Delorie <dj@delorie.com> wrote:

>
>It might be supply and demand - you can't use MDO for wall/roof
>sheathing when building a house. When we built our house, you could use
>*only* plywood sheathing for roofs - we used OSB for everything else.

Plywood takes nails. OSB, not so well.
>
>> Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of the
>> 3. ;-)
>
>but not water resistant.

Are you sure about that? (I don't know, just asking)

<https://www.lowes.com/pd/Medium-Density-Overlay-1-2-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Douglas-Fir-Application-as-4-x-8/1000049011>

krw@notreal.com writes:
> Plywood takes nails. OSB, not so well.

We didn't have any problems with it; maybe it depends on the grade, or
the nails, or the technique. Of course, we were only nailing *through*
the osb, not *to* it.

>>but not water resistant.
>
> Are you sure about that? (I don't know, just asking)
>
> <https://www.lowes.com/pd/Medium-Density-Overlay-1-2-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Douglas-Fir-Application-as-4-x-8/1000049011>

The laminate is generally water resistant (or even water proof) but if
you get water under it, you're at the mercy of whatever's under there.
If the underlayment is fiberboard it will swell like a sponge. If the
underlayment is wood, it won't.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2021 21:06:18 -0400, DJ Delorie <dj@delorie.com> wrote:

>krw@notreal.com writes:
>> Plywood takes nails. OSB, not so well.
>
>We didn't have any problems with it; maybe it depends on the grade, or
>the nails, or the technique. Of course, we were only nailing *through*
>the osb, not *to* it.

Right. I was thinking about nailing shingles *to* it. One of my
previous houses had OSB sheathing. When I replace the (cedar) siding,
I had to nail into the studs to get them to hold.
>
>>>but not water resistant.
>>
>> Are you sure about that? (I don't know, just asking)
>>
>> <https://www.lowes.com/pd/Medium-Density-Ov erlay-1-2-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Douglas-Fir-Application-as-4-x-8/1000049011>
>
>The laminate is generally water resistant (or even water proof) but if
>you get water under it, you're at the mercy of whatever's under there.
>If the underlayment is fiberboard it will swell like a sponge. If the
>underlayment is wood, it won't.

I suppose it depends on paint to keep the edges sealed. At $71/sheet
it should be gold!

On Monday, July 5, 2021 at 9:06:27 PM UTC-4, DJ Delorie wrote:
> k...@notreal.com writes:
> > Plywood takes nails. OSB, not so well.
> We didn't have any problems with it; maybe it depends on the grade, or
> the nails, or the technique. Of course, we were only nailing *through*
> the osb, not *to* it.
> >>but not water resistant.
> >
> > Are you sure about that? (I don't know, just asking)
> >
> > <https://www.lowes.com/pd/Medium-Density-Overlay-1-2-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Douglas-Fir-Application-as-4-x-8/1000049011>
> The laminate is generally water resistant (or even water proof) but if
> you get water under it, you're at the mercy of whatever's under there.
> If the underlayment is fiberboard it will swell like a sponge. If the
> underlayment is wood, it won't.

I've looked but I can't fine any reference to fiberboard being used as an underlayment.
Everything I've read so far indicates that the core is all wood. So references even
discuss the sanding of the top and bottom plies to ensure good adhesion with the
overlay.

Some also talk about

Curtis says it's 100% waterproof

https://www.clp-inc.com/what-is-mdo-plywood/

"How Is MDO Plywood Made?
Using layers of C grade and B grade wood, the thin wood veneers are layered
perpendicular to each other to provide stability. In between each veneer a layer
of waterproof resin is applied, and then everything is fused together with heat
and pressure. The overlay coatings are made from waterproof resin-impregnated
fiber, making MDO 100% waterproof."

https://justpaint.org/medium-density-overlay/

"The Resin
Most wood panel products are manufactured using either a urea formaldehyde or
a phenol formaldehyde adhesive. The difference between the two and why one
would be used over another has a lot to do with urea formaldehyde being a water
resistant adhesive and phenol formaldehyde being waterproof. Manufacturing
cost and emissions are also factors. (APA, 2015) MDO plywood uses a phenol
formaldehyde resin, also known as a phenolic resin, to adhere and saturate the
overlay as well as bond the plywood veneer together. "

I can certainly see an issue if the edges aren't sealed.

On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
> Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
> can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
>
> My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
> Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
> could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
> the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
>
> This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
> more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
> but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
> the 3. ;-)
>
> Who knew?
>

I knew... ;!)

So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
many people know about it and demand "has" been low.

I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.

I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.

This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
of. It Paints up great.

Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
expect it to be.

The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.

Little to no splintering when cut.

Currently I am working on a Murphy bed set.

The bed is done except for a permanent pull handle and I am currently
working on tower cabinets on both sides of the bed. The panels in all
of the pictures below are MDO.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51189492922/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51191984996/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660354/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660369/in/dateposted/

On 7/5/2021 5:07 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:
>
> It might be supply and demand - you can't use MDO for wall/roof
> sheathing when building a house. When we built our house, you could use
> *only* plywood sheathing for roofs - we used OSB for everything else.
>
>> Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of the
>> 3. ;-)
>
> but not water resistant.
>

Actually it is. The surface has a resin bonded veneer., When painted
this material was used for road signs. MDO is nothing like MDF.

On 7/5/2021 8:06 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:
> krw@notreal.com writes:
>> Plywood takes nails. OSB, not so well.
>
> We didn't have any problems with it; maybe it depends on the grade, or
> the nails, or the technique. Of course, we were only nailing *through*
> the osb, not *to* it.
>
>>> but not water resistant.
>>
>> Are you sure about that? (I don't know, just asking)
>>
>> <https://www.lowes.com/pd/Medium-Density-Overlay-1-2-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Douglas-Fir-Application-as-4-x-8/1000049011>
>
> The laminate is generally water resistant (or even water proof) but if
> you get water under it, you're at the mercy of whatever's under there.
> If the underlayment is fiberboard it will swell like a sponge. If the
> underlayment is wood, it won't.
>

Cant say that I have ever seen or heard of MDO having anything but
plywood as a core.

On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
> > Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
> > can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
> >
> > My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
> > Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
> > could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
> > the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
> >
> > This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
> > more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
> > but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
> > the 3. ;-)
> >
> > Who knew?
> >
> I knew... ;!)
>
> So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
> many people know about it and demand "has" been low.
>
> I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
> per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.
>
> I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
> suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.
>
> This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
> of. It Paints up great.
>
> Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
> plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
> expect it to be.
>
> The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
> the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.
>
> Little to no splintering when cut.

The one thing that I found (and totally expected) is that the laminate
is so thin that putting a roundover on the sheet did not come out very
pretty. But, in my case I knew it would happen and really don't care.

I will be covering the material with carpet and wanted to soften the edge
so the carpet wraps around easier. I'm making two platforms for the back
of my Odyssey. One will be for the rear cargo area when the 3rd row bench is
stowed in the floor. That platforms will stay in the Ody >99% of the time. The
second platform will be used when the 2nd row captain chairs are removed.
The platforms are built, carpeting to start tonight.

With each generation of the Ody (approximately every 5 years) they made
the floor less and less smooth. My 04 was almost complete flat. The 06 was
a little worse and my 17 is a real PITA. The 18+ vans are even worse.

It's hard to tell from this picture, but that hump is about 3" high. It may look
like it just slants downward, but it's actually a hump. (3rd row bench hinges).

The goal is to go from this:

https://i.imgur.com/L0rpCbe.jpg

To this, with the 2nd row seats in....

https://i.imgur.com/012o8wP.jpg

....and this with the 2nd row seats out.

https://i.imgur.com/lHtubcP.jpg

One full sheet of MDO, a 8" x 33" patch of 1/2" sheathing (scrap) and a
couple of 2 x 4's to level it all out.

>
> Currently I am working on a Murphy bed set.
>
> The bed is done except for a permanent pull handle and I am currently
> working on tower cabinets on both sides of the bed. The panels in all
> of the pictures below are MDO.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51189492922/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51191984996/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660354/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660369/in/dateposted/

Looking good!

On 7/6/2021 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
>>> Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
>>> can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
>>>
>>> My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
>>> Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
>>> could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
>>> the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
>>>
>>> This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
>>> more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
>>> but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
>>> the 3. ;-)
>>>
>>> Who knew?
>>>
>> I knew... ;!)
>>
>> So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
>> many people know about it and demand "has" been low.
>>
>> I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
>> per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.
>>
>> I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
>> suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.
>>
>> This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
>> of. It Paints up great.
>>
>> Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
>> plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
>> expect it to be.
>>
>> The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
>> the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.
>>
>> Little to no splintering when cut.
>
> The one thing that I found (and totally expected) is that the laminate
> is so thin that putting a roundover on the sheet did not come out very
> pretty. But, in my case I knew it would happen and really don't care.

That would be the case with any plywood. Wood veneers on plywoods are
getting pretty thin! Way too freaking easy to sand through the veneer.
So adding an edge, to hardwood veneer plywood, has to be attached
perfectly or proud of the veneer surface.

FWIW I switched to MDO years ago when I am going to use paint for the
finish. I simply cannot depend on the outer veneers, on paint grade
plywood's, to not de-laminate, even with oil based products. I ran into
that about 7 years ago and was not happy. AND another reason that I
prefinish panels before assembly. At least then I have a chance to
correct the problem with a replacement piece. Finishing, especially
painting after assembly is both risky and much more difficult.

>
> I will be covering the material with carpet and wanted to soften the edge
> so the carpet wraps around easier. I'm making two platforms for the back
> of my Odyssey. One will be for the rear cargo area when the 3rd row bench is
> stowed in the floor. That platforms will stay in the Ody >99% of the time. The
> second platform will be used when the 2nd row captain chairs are removed.
> The platforms are built, carpeting to start tonight.
>
> With each generation of the Ody (approximately every 5 years) they made
> the floor less and less smooth. My 04 was almost complete flat. The 06 was
> a little worse and my 17 is a real PITA. The 18+ vans are even worse.
>
> It's hard to tell from this picture, but that hump is about 3" high. It may look
> like it just slants downward, but it's actually a hump. (3rd row bench hinges).
>
> The goal is to go from this:
>
> https://i.imgur.com/L0rpCbe.jpg
>
> To this, with the 2nd row seats in....
>
> https://i.imgur.com/012o8wP.jpg
>
> ...and this with the 2nd row seats out.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/lHtubcP.jpg
>
> One full sheet of MDO, a 8" x 33" patch of 1/2" sheathing (scrap) and a
> couple of 2 x 4's to level it all out.
>

Looks good!

>>
>> Currently I am working on a Murphy bed set.
>>
>> The bed is done except for a permanent pull handle and I am currently
>> working on tower cabinets on both sides of the bed. The panels in all
>> of the pictures below are MDO.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51189492922/in/photostream/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51191984996/in/photostream/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660354/in/photostream/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660369/in/dateposted/
>
> Looking good!
>

On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 12:07:02 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 7/6/2021 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
> >>> Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
> >>> can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
> >>>
> >>> My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
> >>> Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
> >>> could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
> >>> the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
> >>>
> >>> This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
> >>> more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
> >>> but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
> >>> the 3. ;-)
> >>>
> >>> Who knew?
> >>>
> >> I knew... ;!)
> >>
> >> So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
> >> many people know about it and demand "has" been low.
> >>
> >> I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
> >> per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.
> >>
> >> I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
> >> suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.
> >>
> >> This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
> >> of. It Paints up great.
> >>
> >> Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
> >> plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
> >> expect it to be.
> >>
> >> The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
> >> the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.
> >>
> >> Little to no splintering when cut.
> >
> > The one thing that I found (and totally expected) is that the laminate
> > is so thin that putting a roundover on the sheet did not come out very
> > pretty. But, in my case I knew it would happen and really don't care.
> That would be the case with any plywood. Wood veneers on plywoods are
> getting pretty thin! Way too freaking easy to sand through the veneer.

BTDT

> So adding an edge, to hardwood veneer plywood, has to be attached
> perfectly or proud of the veneer surface.

BTDT too.

>
> FWIW I switched to MDO years ago when I am going to use paint for the
> finish. I simply cannot depend on the outer veneers, on paint grade
> plywood's, to not de-laminate, even with oil based products. I ran into
> that about 7 years ago and was not happy. AND another reason that I
> prefinish panels before assembly. At least then I have a chance to
> correct the problem with a replacement piece. Finishing, especially
> painting after assembly is both risky and much more difficult.

I hate painting.

> >
> > I will be covering the material with carpet and wanted to soften the edge
> > so the carpet wraps around easier. I'm making two platforms for the back
> > of my Odyssey. One will be for the rear cargo area when the 3rd row bench is
> > stowed in the floor. That platforms will stay in the Ody >99% of the time. The
> > second platform will be used when the 2nd row captain chairs are removed.
> > The platforms are built, carpeting to start tonight.
> >
> > With each generation of the Ody (approximately every 5 years) they made
> > the floor less and less smooth. My 04 was almost complete flat. The 06 was
> > a little worse and my 17 is a real PITA. The 18+ vans are even worse.
> >
> > It's hard to tell from this picture, but that hump is about 3" high. It may look
> > like it just slants downward, but it's actually a hump. (3rd row bench hinges).
> >
> > The goal is to go from this:
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/L0rpCbe.jpg
> >
> > To this, with the 2nd row seats in....
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/012o8wP.jpg
> >
> > ...and this with the 2nd row seats out.
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/lHtubcP.jpg
> >
> > One full sheet of MDO, a 8" x 33" patch of 1/2" sheathing (scrap) and a
> > couple of 2 x 4's to level it all out.
> >
> Looks good!
> >>
> >> Currently I am working on a Murphy bed set.
> >>
> >> The bed is done except for a permanent pull handle and I am currently
> >> working on tower cabinets on both sides of the bed. The panels in all
> >> of the pictures below are MDO.
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51189492922/in/photostream/
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51191984996/in/photostream/
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660354/in/photostream/
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/51294660369/in/dateposted/
> >
> > Looking good!
> >

On 7/6/2021 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 12:07:02 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 7/6/2021 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
>>>>> Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
>>>>> can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
>>>>>
>>>>> My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
>>>>> Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
>>>>> could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
>>>>> the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
>>>>>
>>>>> This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
>>>>> more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
>>>>> but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
>>>>> the 3. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Who knew?
>>>>>
>>>> I knew... ;!)
>>>>
>>>> So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
>>>> many people know about it and demand "has" been low.
>>>>
>>>> I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
>>>> per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.
>>>>
>>>> I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
>>>> suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.
>>>>
>>>> This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
>>>> of. It Paints up great.
>>>>
>>>> Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
>>>> plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
>>>> expect it to be.
>>>>
>>>> The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
>>>> the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.
>>>>
>>>> Little to no splintering when cut.
>>>
>>> The one thing that I found (and totally expected) is that the laminate
>>> is so thin that putting a roundover on the sheet did not come out very
>>> pretty. But, in my case I knew it would happen and really don't care.
>> That would be the case with any plywood. Wood veneers on plywoods are
>> getting pretty thin! Way too freaking easy to sand through the veneer.
>
> BTDT
>
>> So adding an edge, to hardwood veneer plywood, has to be attached
>> perfectly or proud of the veneer surface.
>
> BTDT too.
>
>>
>> FWIW I switched to MDO years ago when I am going to use paint for the
>> finish. I simply cannot depend on the outer veneers, on paint grade
>> plywood's, to not de-laminate, even with oil based products. I ran into
>> that about 7 years ago and was not happy. AND another reason that I
>> prefinish panels before assembly. At least then I have a chance to
>> correct the problem with a replacement piece. Finishing, especially
>> painting after assembly is both risky and much more difficult.
>
> I hate painting.

The bed probably took me less than 45 minutes to paint and clean up.
The 6 panels for the lower tower cabinets. Probably 20 minutes total
and 10 to clean up. I used a small foam roller for 98% of the painting.

I used General Finishes Milk Paint. Super easy to use.

On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 6:01:00 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 7/6/2021 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 12:07:02 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 7/6/2021 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >>>> On 7/5/2021 4:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>> I just bought a sheet of 1/2" Douglas Fir MDO Plywood at Lowes.
> >>>>> Actual thickness: 0.484. The entire stack (50 sheets?) was flat as
> >>>>> can be, no gaps between sheets. $73.98
> >>>>>
> >>>>> My other choice was 1/2" Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
> >>>>> Actual thickness: 0.438. All through out the stack (50 sheets?) you
> >>>>> could see gaps where many sheets were so warped, they pushed all
> >>>>> the sheets above them up. Gaps > 1". $75.25
> >>>>>
> >>>>> This was my first purchase of MDO. I just assumed that it would be
> >>>>> more expensive than crappy sheathing. I don't need MDO for my project,
> >>>>> but why not? Cheaper, thicker, flatter - and I don't have to pick any 2 of
> >>>>> the 3. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Who knew?
> >>>>>
> >>>> I knew... ;!)
> >>>>
> >>>> So no, it is not always cheaper but times are strange right now. Not
> >>>> many people know about it and demand "has" been low.
> >>>>
> >>>> I pay $69 per sheet for 3/4". Until last week, the price went up to $89
> >>>> per sheet. AND they had to check to see if they had any left.
> >>>>
> >>>> I got it for my regular price but I think they are doing what all
> >>>> suppliers are doing now, marking up low inventories.
> >>>>
> >>>> This is the stuff that highway departments used to make road signs out
> >>>> of. It Paints up great.
> >>>>
> >>>> Also the inner plies tend to be higher quality, reminiscent of how
> >>>> plywood looked 50 years ago and thickness is verrrrrry close to what you
> >>>> expect it to be.
> >>>>
> >>>> The surface smells like plastic laminate does when milled. So basically
> >>>> the surface is a craft like paper with infused with a resin.
> >>>>
> >>>> Little to no splintering when cut.
> >>>
> >>> The one thing that I found (and totally expected) is that the laminate
> >>> is so thin that putting a roundover on the sheet did not come out very
> >>> pretty. But, in my case I knew it would happen and really don't care.
> >> That would be the case with any plywood. Wood veneers on plywoods are
> >> getting pretty thin! Way too freaking easy to sand through the veneer.
> >
> > BTDT
> >
> >> So adding an edge, to hardwood veneer plywood, has to be attached
> >> perfectly or proud of the veneer surface.
> >
> > BTDT too.
> >
> >>
> >> FWIW I switched to MDO years ago when I am going to use paint for the
> >> finish. I simply cannot depend on the outer veneers, on paint grade
> >> plywood's, to not de-laminate, even with oil based products. I ran into
> >> that about 7 years ago and was not happy. AND another reason that I
> >> prefinish panels before assembly. At least then I have a chance to
> >> correct the problem with a replacement piece. Finishing, especially
> >> painting after assembly is both risky and much more difficult.
> >
> > I hate painting.
> The bed probably took me less than 45 minutes to paint and clean up.
> The 6 panels for the lower tower cabinets. Probably 20 minutes total
> and 10 to clean up. I used a small foam roller for 98% of the painting.
>
> I used General Finishes Milk Paint. Super easy to use.

I hate painting.