On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >> > On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> >> >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> >> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> >>>> On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >> >>>>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
> >> >> >>>>>>> For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
> >> >> >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
> >> >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.
> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>>> How man TPI should I be looking for.
> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>>> I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>>> Any other considerations?
> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>>> Thanks
> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>> The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
> >> >> >>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>> Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
> >> >> >>>>>>
> >> >> >>>>>> Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >>>>> And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >>>>> That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
> >> >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >>>> My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
> >> >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> Seen it, never tried it. I should.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
> >> >> >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
> >> >> >
> >> >> > My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
> >> >> > went looking.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
> >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
> >> >> > molds.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
> >> >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
> >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Maybe coasters would be a good start.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
> >> >> >
> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
> >> >> >
> >> >> I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
> >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
> >> >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
> >> >
> >> >Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
> >> >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
> >> >makes them work so well for deep pours.
> >> >
> >> >There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
> >> >use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
> >> >starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
> >> I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
> >> tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
> >
> >It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
> >start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like
> >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
> G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
> clear, AFAIK.

G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:

"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."

> The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.

The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

> >>
> >> There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
> >> so it goes go a long way.
> >
> >I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
> That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
> >A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
> >of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
> >for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
> >
> >One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
> >tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
> >showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
> >tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
> >his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
> >really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
> >they slowly died in various states of contortion.
> Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
> take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
> they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
> but...
> >
> >> >
> >> >I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
> >> >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
> >> >before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
> >> It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
> >> acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
> >
> >I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
> >cure and are sanded.
> >
> >I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping
> >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the
> >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
> >
> >It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
> >hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
> I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.

Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue,
that makes sense.

The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than
"thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just went
too far.

On Sat, 20 Nov 2021 06:56:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
>> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> >> >> On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> >> > On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> >> >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
>> >> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> >> >> >>>> On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> >> >>>>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
>> >> >> >>>>>>> For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
>> >> >> >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
>> >> >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.
>> >> >> >>>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>>> How man TPI should I be looking for.
>> >> >> >>>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>>> I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
>> >> >> >>>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>>> Any other considerations?
>> >> >> >>>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>>> Thanks
>> >> >> >>>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>> The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
>> >> >> >>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>> Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
>> >> >> >>>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>>> Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
>> >> >> >>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>> And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
>> >> >> >>>>>
>> >> >> >>>>> That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
>> >> >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
>> >> >> >>>>>
>> >> >> >>>> My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
>> >> >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> Seen it, never tried it. I should.
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
>> >> >> >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
>> >> >> > went looking.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
>> >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
>> >> >> > molds.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
>> >> >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
>> >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Maybe coasters would be a good start.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
>> >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
>> >> >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
>> >> >
>> >> >Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
>> >> >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
>> >> >makes them work so well for deep pours.
>> >> >
>> >> >There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
>> >> >use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
>> >> >starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
>> >> I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
>> >> tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
>> >
>> >It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
>> >start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like
>> >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
>> G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
>> clear, AFAIK.
>
>G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
>flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:

OK, but it's not something intended for A&C. AFAIC, Epoxe is a glue.
>"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
>expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."

Ok...

>> The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.
>
>The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.
>
>https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

The result isn't clear. That's what matters.
>
>> >>
>> >> There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
>> >> so it goes go a long way.
>> >
>> >I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
>> That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
>> >A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
>> >of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
>> >for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
>> >
>> >One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
>> >tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
>> >showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
>> >tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
>> >his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
>> >really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
>> >they slowly died in various states of contortion.
>> Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
>> take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
>> they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
>> but...
>> >
>> >> >
>> >> >I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
>> >> >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
>> >> >before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
>> >> It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
>> >> acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
>> >
>> >I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
>> >cure and are sanded.
>> >
>> >I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping
>> >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the
>> >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
>> >
>> >It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
>> >hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
>> I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.
>
>Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue,
>that makes sense.

On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 8:32:56 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Nov 2021 06:56:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> >> On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >> >> > On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> >> >> >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> >> >> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> >> >>>> On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >> >> >>>>> On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.
> >> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> How man TPI should I be looking for.
> >> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
> >> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> Any other considerations?
> >> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>>> Thanks
> >> >> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>> The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
> >> >> >> >>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>> Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
> >> >> >> >>>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>>> Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
> >> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>> And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
> >> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>>> That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
> >> >> >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
> >> >> >> >>>>>
> >> >> >> >>>> My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
> >> >> >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
> >> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >> >>> Seen it, never tried it. I should.
> >> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >> >>> Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
> >> >> >> >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
> >> >> >> > went looking.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
> >> >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
> >> >> >> > molds.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
> >> >> >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
> >> >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > Maybe coasters would be a good start.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
> >> >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
> >> >> >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
> >> >> >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
> >> >> >makes them work so well for deep pours.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
> >> >> >use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
> >> >> >starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
> >> >> I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
> >> >> tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
> >> >
> >> >It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
> >> >start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like
> >> >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
> >> G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
> >> clear, AFAIK.
> >
> >G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
> >flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:
> OK, but it's not something intended for A&C. AFAIC, Epoxe is a glue.

We could spend hours debating definitions & terms, but I don't plan to. ;-)

Epoxy, epoxy resins, epoxy coating resins, casting resins, oh my!

https://epoxycountertopdiy.com/difference-between-epoxy-and-resin/

> >"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
> >expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."
> Ok...
> >> The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.
> >
> >The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.
> >
> >https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/
> The result isn't clear. That's what matters.
> >
> >> >>
> >> >> There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
> >> >> so it goes go a long way.
> >> >
> >> >I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
> >> That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
> >> >A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
> >> >of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
> >> >for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
> >> >
> >> >One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
> >> >tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
> >> >showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
> >> >tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
> >> >his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
> >> >really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
> >> >they slowly died in various states of contortion.
> >> Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
> >> take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
> >> they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
> >> but...
> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
> >> >> >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
> >> >> >before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
> >> >> It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
> >> >> acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
> >> >
> >> >I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
> >> >cure and are sanded.
> >> >
> >> >I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping
> >> >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the
> >> >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
> >> >
> >> >It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
> >> >hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
> >> I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.
> >
> >Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue,
> >that makes sense.
> I would expect the instructions to give the bounds. "Heating" could
> be/do anything.