One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
>
> Bob

Good job.

More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours.... I want 4 of them.

Sonny

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948-a058-fc1f86c9370bn@googlegroups.com>):

> I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
> These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
> hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
> was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for
years...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image
?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Joe

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 9:06:24 PM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >
> > Bob
>
> Good job.
>
> More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
> I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours..... I want 4 of them.
>
> Sonny

Sonny, I wish I could help. The holes in my bench are 3/4". All of the hardware used with these holes came from Leevalley. I've never seen 7/8" hardware. If I do, I will post it here.

Bob

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 4:47:49 AM UTC-6, 10x wrote:
> On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
> (in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):
> > I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
> > These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
> > hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
> > was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.
> Bob,
>
> One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
> screwdriver.
> A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
> smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for
> years...
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image
> ?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the great tips, as well as the source for the beeswax.

Bob

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 9:06:24 PM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >
> > Bob
>
> Good job.
>
> More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
> I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours..... I want 4 of them.
>
> Sonny

This looks like what you describe:

https://www.amazon.com/Large-woodworking-holdfast-benchdog-hole/dp/B07PBCFTY5

Bob

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>te:
>
>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>=20
>> Bob
>
>Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

On 12/31/2021 6:20 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 4:47:49 AM UTC-6, 10x wrote:
>> On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
>> (in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):
>>> I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
>>> These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
>>> hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
>>> was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.
>> Bob,
>>
>> One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
>> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
>> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
>> screwdriver.
>> A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
>> smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for
>> years...
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image
>> ?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>>
>> Joe
>
> Joe,
>
> Thanks for the great tips, as well as the source for the beeswax.
>
> Bob

Yes! using steel screws of the same size, to prethread, is preferred to
having the brass screws do the work.
And any wax will do. I use Briwax, expensive, but I always have it
around for ummmm, waxing wood surfaces.

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 5:47:49 AM UTC-5, 10x wrote:
> On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
> (in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):
> > I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
> > These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
> > hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
> > was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.
> Bob,
>
> One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
> screwdriver.
> A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
> smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for
> years...

Grandpa always soaped his screws. When he passed I inherited most of his
tools. I opened a small wooden box of drill bits and found the last chunk of
soap he had been using, all marked up with grooves from the screws he swiped
across it.

I used it until I barely hold onto the sliver any more.

On 12/31/2021 12:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 5:47:49 AM UTC-5, 10x wrote:
>> On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
>> (in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):
>>> I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
>>> These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
>>> hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
>>> was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.
>> Bob,
>>
>> One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
>> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
>> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
>> screwdriver.
>> A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
>> smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for
>> years...
>
> Grandpa always soaped his screws. When he passed I inherited most of his
> tools. I opened a small wooden box of drill bits and found the last chunk of
> soap he had been using, all marked up with grooves from the screws he swiped
> across it.
>
> I used it until I barely hold onto the sliver any more.

Yes soap works well too. BUT soap has water in it and in some cases
will react with the steel and the wood, rust.

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 7:58:58 AM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

> This looks like what you describe:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Large-woodworking-holdfast-benchdog-hole/dp/B07PBCFTY5
>
> Bob

Thanks Bob. I placed an order.

Sonny

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
>
> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
>
> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
>
> Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
> >te:
> >
> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
> >>=20
> >> Bob
> >
> >Good job.
>
> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Thanks. I don't have a 1/4" plug cutter. 5/16" would have been too large for this fix. I ordered a 1/4" plug cutter for the next mistake I make. :-)

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> > One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
> >
> > I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
> >
> > The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
> >
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >
> > Bob
> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
> of hinge.
>
> --
> Jack
> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
> >te:
> >
> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
> >>=20
> >> Bob
> >
> >Good job.
>
> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

Bob

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
>> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>> >te:
>> >
>> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>> >>=20
>> >> Bob
>> >
>> >Good job.
>>
>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>
>Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 12:14:59 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
> >> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
> >> >te:
> >> >
> >> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
> >> >>=20
> >> >> Bob
> >> >
> >> >Good job.
> >>
> >> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
> >> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
> >
> >Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.
> A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
> I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

Yes, I understand the strength issues. Apparently, I am looking at my dowels wrong. I will see if I can post some closeup pictures of my dowels and seek an opinion.

Thank you,
Bob

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/

On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
>>>
>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
>>>
>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
>>>
>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
>>>
>>> Bob
>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
>> of hinge.
>>
>> --
>> Jack
>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>
> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
>
> Bob

On 1/3/2022 12:14 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
> <wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>> te:
>>>>
>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>> =20
>>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Good job.
>>>
>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>
>> Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.
>
> A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
> I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

While that is generally true, long narrow plugs, an inch and longer made
from face grain are easily broken during insertion.

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

>Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>te:
>>
>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>=20
>>> Bob
>>
>>Good job.
>
>Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
>
> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> > On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> >> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
> >>>
> >>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
> >>>
> >>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
> >>>
> >>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> >> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
> >> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
> >> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
> >> of hinge.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Jack
> >> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
> >
> > I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
> >
> > Bob
Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
> wrote:
> >Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
> >>On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
> >>te:
> >>
> >>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
> >>>=20
> >>> Bob
> >>
> >>Good job.
> >
> >Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
> >plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
> a bonus.

I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.

Bob Davis <wrobertdavis@gmail.com> writes:
>On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:=20
>> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com =
>wro=3D=20
>> >te:=20
>> >=20
>> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=3D20=20
>> >>=3D20=20
>> >> Bob=20
>> >=20
>> >Good job.=20
>>=20
>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain=20
>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>
>Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. =
> I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not fi=
>nd any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using =
>a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, =
>I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

I've never, ever seen a dowel where the _ends_, i.e. the part you are
driving your screws into, was not endgrain - the dowel would have no
strength along the length of the dowel.

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>> wrote:
>> >Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
>> >>On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>> >>te:
>> >>
>> >>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>> >>>=20
>> >>> Bob
>> >>
>> >>Good job.
>> >
>> >Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>> >plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>> a bonus.
>
>I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.

I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
never had any luck cutting them myself.

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
> wrote:
>
>> Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>> te:
>>>
>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>> =20
>>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Good job.
>>
>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>
> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
> a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
PIA.