I don't post many tasting notes these days, but I am inspired to do so
today due to the remarkable nature of the title wine. This was the
third of three bottles that I purchased upon release. At the time, $40
a bottle for a St Joseph sounded expensive; nowadays, $40/bottle for
Gonon would be a steal (and immediately make me suspect shenanigans).

The previously opened bottles showed promise and development, but last
night's bottle was hitting on all cylinders and damn near perfect for my
tastes. It was opened at cellar temperature, which these days is down
around 55F, and immediately the nose transported me. It had a pronounced
"animale" quality, distinctly different from the barnyard character one
can get from Brett infections, and pretty much absent in earlier
encounters. There was also the tell-tale green olive note and Jean was
picking up some licorice. It is fair to say that I haven't smelled a
nose like that on Syrah since the late Lou Kessler opened a bottle of
1986 Noel Verset Cornas at a dinner in Berkeley in 2005.

On the palate, it was medium-bodied with silky tannins and lush
red-berry fruit. The acidity was just what one would expect and it was
a marvelous foil for rack of lamb with sauteed shiitakes and shallots
and baby bok choy in a garlic-black pepper sauce. Jean and I both could
not stop smelling and drinking this wine.

Alas, that bottle also exhausted my supply of Gonon St. Joseph. No more
are likely owing to the collector-driven price escalation reminiscent of
Gentaz, Chave, Verset and Allemand, all now well out of our reach. I
told Jean the story of the Gonon St J VV bottling and now she wants to
get one :o.

Mark Lipton

On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 4:02:53 PM UTC-5, Mark Lipton wrote:

>
> Alas, that bottle also exhausted my supply of Gonon St. Joseph. No more
> are likely owing to the collector-driven price escalation reminiscent of
> Gentaz, Chave, Verset and Allemand, all now well out of our reach. I
> told Jean the story of the Gonon St J VV bottling and now she wants to
> get one :o.
>
I have one bottle of 06 left and I think one each of '10 and '11 (regular St Jo). When gone, I'll assume I will never own another Gonon.
But it was a good run while it lasted!
I've only had the VV once, the old Trollat vines? .

On 11/16/23 3:38 PM, dalewilli...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 4:02:53 PM UTC-5, Mark Lipton wrote:
>
>>
>> Alas, that bottle also exhausted my supply of Gonon St. Joseph. No more
>> are likely owing to the collector-driven price escalation reminiscent of
>> Gentaz, Chave, Verset and Allemand, all now well out of our reach. I
>> told Jean the story of the Gonon St J VV bottling and now she wants to
>> get one :o.
>>
> I have one bottle of 06 left and I think one each of '10 and '11 (regular St Jo). When gone, I'll assume I will never own another Gonon.
> But it was a good run while it lasted!
> I've only had the VV once, the old Trollat vines? .

Yup, that's the one. The unicorniest of unicorn wines. I did a quick
price check: $1800/bottle. Yup, that's going to happen...

Mark Lipton