Addressed especially to Clare and to anyone who thinks he's as smart as
Clare is.

Here is the wiring diagram for this car,
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoj71v8wiwwqtd7/Solara-Clock.odg?dl=0
It's an odg file, that LibreOffice Draw creates. I think most people
have programs that can display it, or the notes below have almost all
the same information.

I made an understandable but mistaken assumption in my first posts about
this, so let's forget about them and let me ask the question correctly:

The instruments above my car radio on a 2005 Toyota Solara can't be seen
in the daytime, unless the sun shines in directly through the rear
window, but they are illuminated when it's dark out. The illumination is
fine and they are easy to read.

I want to read them in the daytime too!

The instrument unit includes
1 Trip Monitor (MPG, Avg MPG, DTE, avg MPH, ET)
2 Clock
3 Outdoor Temp
Passenger present but seat belt not on - light.

From now on I'll call this whole thing the Clock.

1 and 2 light up with ignition in ACC and ON, 3 lights up in ON, but in
all cases, only if it's dark out.
This is true when the headlight switch is in the Auto position or any
other position such as Parking light, Headlight, or OFF.

What misled me before is that I've observed and the wiring diagram
agrees that when it gets dark, a photocell signals the Body ECU which
closes the Taillight relay and that sends power to the taillights and
the Panel fuse, and the Panel fuse powers lights in the speedometer
cluster, radio buttons, AC buttons, seat heater switches, gear shift
indicator and the glove box.

I mistakenly assumed that since those lights go on at night, the Clock
lights go on for the same reason. But in fact, the Clock lights go on
in the dark even if the Panel fuse has been removed, and they don't go
on in the daytime even if the Panel fuse has been bypassed to a source
that is 12V whenever the car is running, even in the daytime, and when
doing that has made all those other lights go on all the time that
normally go on only at night.

So am I to believe there are two separate mechanisms for turning on
lights at night? Why would they do that, and what would be the other
mechanism?

BTW, if I use a dark-colored multi-layer rag to cover the light sensor
in the dashboard, I will trick the headlights into going on in the day
time. It takes 4 or 5 seconds for them to go on, and then about the
same for them to go off when I remove the rag. But doing this doesn't
make the Clock lights go on. But night time does make the clock lights
go on. What makes the car think it's night if covering the light
sensor didn't do that? WHAT ELSE COULD THERE BE?

So I looked in detail at the Clock. It's supplied by 5, count 'em,
five, fuses. Pins 7, 15, 16, 17, 22

7 comes from the IGN fuse, 12v when engine running
15 comes from the Panel fuse, 12v when it's dark out
16 comes from the Gauge1 fuse, 12v when ignition sw. is ON
17 comes from the ECU ACC fuse, 12v when key in ACC or ON
22 comes from the Dome fuse, always 12v,

All the pins are described next. Pin 6 seems hard to understand.

Pin 6. TAU terminal on the clock. Goes to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why
does it have input from the Injector. To calculate MPG, really? Even
though it has input on 5 labeled Fuel and on 12 labeled Speed. So why?
Certainly not to tell the clock when it's dark out.

Label Color Conn. Function
1 GND1 W-B
2 TH- B-W IG6 AC ambient temp sensor (near front bumper)
3 TH+ G-R IG6 return from 2
4 SW 1 R Steering wheel display-control, and on to ground
5 FUEL LG-R to speedo cluster, fuel gauge, used for mpg display
6 TAU L IM2 to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why does it have input
from the Injector. For MPG? but it has input from 5-Fuel and
12-Speed.
7 TAUB B-R IM2 return from Injector No. 1 and also to IGN FUSE, 12v
when engine running
8 TBD L-B airbag sensor, 1
9 TX-1 W-B **but doesn't appy to my car
10 TX-2 W-B same as 1 for some reason
11 PBEW L-R airbag sensor, 2
12 SPD V-W to speedometer, used I'm sure for mpg display
13 DATA G-Y IK1 WHY? to TAM A11(A) A/C Control Assembly. So does
TAM mean Temperature AMbient? I guess so, since the AC page shows just
this part of the clock including pins 2 and 3 (the ambient temperature
sensor), and since the instrument 3 in the list at the top is the
outdoor temperature.
14 P-AB V airbag sensor, 3
15 TAIL G to Panel FUSE, but light goes on at night even when
Panel fuse is missing, and doesn't go on in day-time, even when
Taillight relay is bypassed and Panel Fuse is energized.
16 IG R-L to Gauge1 FUSE, 12v when ign. sw. ON, powers the
pass. seat belt warning light and much other stuff, only have 2006
list.)
17 ACC Gr to ECU ACC FUSE, 12v when key in ACC or ON (also
headlights, fog light, speedo meter, power mirror, AUTO LIGHT CONTROL)
18 ILL- W-G to speedo cluster (combination meter)
19 TAMO LG-R to skid control ECU. What does this have to do with
any of the 3 gauges in the clock?
22 B+ R from Dome FUSE, always 12v, needed to keep clock
running all the time (also dome light, fob receiver, garage door
opener)

But does any of this show how the lights in the Clock are on at night
and not on during the day?

(Part of the reason it's taken so long to ask this question is that some
testing can only be done at night and some only int

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> writes:
>

>BTW, if I use a dark-colored multi-layer rag to cover the light sensor
>in the dashboard, I will trick the headlights into going on in the day
>time. It takes 4 or 5 seconds for them to go on, and then about the
>same for them to go off when I remove the rag. But doing this doesn't
>make the Clock lights go on. But night time does make the clock lights
>go on. What makes the car think it's night if covering the light
>sensor didn't do that? WHAT ELSE COULD THERE BE?

Um. It's a clock. Maybe it just knows what time it is.

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote in message
news:sqrbagd8hslel2n2e03kd2orqk71rsnfm4@4ax.com...
>
> Addressed especially to Clare and to anyone who thinks he's as smart as
> Clare is.
>
> Here is the wiring diagram for this car,
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoj71v8wiwwqtd7/Solara-Clock.odg?dl=0
> It's an odg file, that LibreOffice Draw creates. I think most people
> have programs that can display it, or the notes below have almost all
> the same information.
>
> I made an understandable but mistaken assumption in my first posts about
> this, so let's forget about them and let me ask the question correctly:
>
> The instruments above my car radio on a 2005 Toyota Solara can't be seen
> in the daytime, unless the sun shines in directly through the rear
> window, but they are illuminated when it's dark out. The illumination is
> fine and they are easy to read.
>
> I want to read them in the daytime too!
>
>
> The instrument unit includes
> 1 Trip Monitor (MPG, Avg MPG, DTE, avg MPH, ET)
> 2 Clock
> 3 Outdoor Temp
> Passenger present but seat belt not on - light.
>
> From now on I'll call this whole thing the Clock.
>
> 1 and 2 light up with ignition in ACC and ON, 3 lights up in ON, but in
> all cases, only if it's dark out.
> This is true when the headlight switch is in the Auto position or any
> other position such as Parking light, Headlight, or OFF.
>
> What misled me before is that I've observed and the wiring diagram
> agrees that when it gets dark, a photocell signals the Body ECU which
> closes the Taillight relay and that sends power to the taillights and
> the Panel fuse, and the Panel fuse powers lights in the speedometer
> cluster, radio buttons, AC buttons, seat heater switches, gear shift
> indicator and the glove box.
>
> I mistakenly assumed that since those lights go on at night, the Clock
> lights go on for the same reason. But in fact, the Clock lights go on
> in the dark even if the Panel fuse has been removed, and they don't go
> on in the daytime even if the Panel fuse has been bypassed to a source
> that is 12V whenever the car is running, even in the daytime, and when
> doing that has made all those other lights go on all the time that
> normally go on only at night.
>
> So am I to believe there are two separate mechanisms for turning on
> lights at night? Why would they do that, and what would be the other
> mechanism?
>
> BTW, if I use a dark-colored multi-layer rag to cover the light sensor
> in the dashboard, I will trick the headlights into going on in the day
> time. It takes 4 or 5 seconds for them to go on, and then about the
> same for them to go off when I remove the rag. But doing this doesn't
> make the Clock lights go on. But night time does make the clock lights
> go on. What makes the car think it's night if covering the light
> sensor didn't do that? WHAT ELSE COULD THERE BE?
>
>
> So I looked in detail at the Clock. It's supplied by 5, count 'em,
> five, fuses. Pins 7, 15, 16, 17, 22
>
> 7 comes from the IGN fuse, 12v when engine running
> 15 comes from the Panel fuse, 12v when it's dark out
> 16 comes from the Gauge1 fuse, 12v when ignition sw. is ON
> 17 comes from the ECU ACC fuse, 12v when key in ACC or ON
> 22 comes from the Dome fuse, always 12v,
>
> All the pins are described next. Pin 6 seems hard to understand.
>
> Pin 6. TAU terminal on the clock. Goes to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why
> does it have input from the Injector. To calculate MPG, really? Even
> though it has input on 5 labeled Fuel and on 12 labeled Speed. So why?
> Certainly not to tell the clock when it's dark out.
>
>
> Label Color Conn. Function
> 1 GND1 W-B
> 2 TH- B-W IG6 AC ambient temp sensor (near front bumper)
> 3 TH+ G-R IG6 return from 2
> 4 SW 1 R Steering wheel display-control, and on to ground
> 5 FUEL LG-R to speedo cluster, fuel gauge, used for mpg display
> 6 TAU L IM2 to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why does it have input
> from the Injector. For MPG? but it has input from 5-Fuel and
> 12-Speed.
> 7 TAUB B-R IM2 return from Injector No. 1 and also to IGN FUSE, 12v
> when engine running
> 8 TBD L-B airbag sensor, 1
> 9 TX-1 W-B **but doesn't appy to my car
> 10 TX-2 W-B same as 1 for some reason
> 11 PBEW L-R airbag sensor, 2
> 12 SPD V-W to speedometer, used I'm sure for mpg display
> 13 DATA G-Y IK1 WHY? to TAM A11(A) A/C Control Assembly. So does
> TAM mean Temperature AMbient? I guess so, since the AC page shows just
> this part of the clock including pins 2 and 3 (the ambient temperature
> sensor), and since the instrument 3 in the list at the top is the
> outdoor temperature.
> 14 P-AB V airbag sensor, 3
> 15 TAIL G to Panel FUSE, but light goes on at night even when
> Panel fuse is missing, and doesn't go on in day-time, even when
> Taillight relay is bypassed and Panel Fuse is energized.
> 16 IG R-L to Gauge1 FUSE, 12v when ign. sw. ON, powers the
> pass. seat belt warning light and much other stuff, only have 2006
> list.)
> 17 ACC Gr to ECU ACC FUSE, 12v when key in ACC or ON (also
> headlights, fog light, speedo meter, power mirror, AUTO LIGHT CONTROL)
> 18 ILL- W-G to speedo cluster (combination meter)
> 19 TAMO LG-R to skid control ECU. What does this have to do with
> any of the 3 gauges in the clock?
> 22 B+ R from Dome FUSE, always 12v, needed to keep clock
> running all the time (also dome light, fob receiver, garage door
> opener)
>
>
> But does any of this show how the lights in the Clock are on at night
> and not on during the day?
>
>
> (Part of the reason it's taken so long to ask this question is that some
> testing can only be done at night and some only int

Its certain that the problem is the programming, not the simple
electrical connections. The evidence for that is the delay you
see when covering and uncovering the photocell. That proves
that it isnt simple electrical connections driving what you see.

On Fri, 21 May 2021 05:43:40 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
>
<FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest trollshit unread>

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rodent Speed:
"You can fuck off as you know less than pig shit you sad
little ignorant cunt."
MID: <62dcaae57b421e2b3b10e97d9c0ddf08@haph.org>

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 May 2021 05:43:40 +1000, "Rod Speed"
<rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
>"micky" <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote in message
>news:sqrbagd8hslel2n2e03kd2orqk71rsnfm4@4ax.com...
>>
>> Addressed especially to Clare and to anyone who thinks he's as smart as
>> Clare is.
>>
>> Here is the wiring diagram for this car's Clock,
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoj71v8wiwwqtd7/Solara-Clock.odg?dl=0
......
>>
>> BTW, if I use a dark-colored multi-layer rag to cover the light sensor
>> in the dashboard, I will trick the headlights into going on in the day
>> time. It takes 4 or 5 seconds for them to go on, and then about the
>> same for them to go off when I remove the rag. But doing this doesn't
>> make the Clock lights go on. But night time does make the clock lights
>> go on. What makes the car think it's night if covering the light
>> sensor didn't do that? WHAT ELSE COULD THERE BE?
>>
>>
>> So I looked in detail at the Clock. It's supplied by 5, count 'em,
>> five, fuses. Pins 7, 15, 16, 17, 22
>>
>> 7 comes from the IGN fuse, 12v when engine running
>> 15 comes from the Panel fuse, 12v when it's dark out
>> 16 comes from the Gauge1 fuse, 12v when ignition sw. is ON
>> 17 comes from the ECU ACC fuse, 12v when key in ACC or ON
>> 22 comes from the Dome fuse, always 12v,
>>
>> All the pins are described next. Pin 6 seems hard to understand.
>>
>> Pin 6. TAU terminal on the clock. Goes to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why
>> does it have input from the Injector. To calculate MPG, really? Even
>> though it has input on 5 labeled Fuel and on 12 labeled Speed. So why?
>> Certainly not to tell the clock when it's dark out.

Below, I'm assuming what some of the pins do. For example, if it's
called Fuel and comes from tghe speedo cluster, I asssume it's coming
from the fuel gauge and has to do with computing MPG.
>>
>>
>> Label Color Conn. Function
>> 1 GND1 W-B
>> 2 TH- B-W IG6 AC ambient temp sensor (near front bumper)
>> 3 TH+ G-R IG6 return from 2
>> 4 SW 1 R Steering wheel display-control, and on to ground
>> 5 FUEL LG-R to speedo cluster, fuel gauge, used for mpg display
>> 6 TAU L IM2 to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why does it have input
>> from the Injector. For MPG? but it has input from 5-Fuel and
>> 12-Speed.
>> 7 TAUB B-R IM2 return from Injector No. 1 and also to IGN FUSE, 12v
>> when engine running
>> 8 TBD L-B airbag sensor, 1
>> 9 TX-1 W-B **but doesn't appy to my car
>> 10 TX-2 W-B same as 1 for some reason
>> 11 PBEW L-R airbag sensor, 2
>> 12 SPD V-W to speedometer, used I'm sure for mpg display
>> 13 DATA G-Y IK1 WHY? to TAM A11(A) A/C Control Assembly. So does
>> TAM mean Temperature AMbient? I guess so, since the AC page shows just
>> this part of the clock including pins 2 and 3 (the ambient temperature
>> sensor), and since the instrument 3 in the list at the top is the
>> outdoor temperature.
>> 14 P-AB V airbag sensor, 3
>> 15 TAIL G to Panel FUSE, but light goes on at night even when
>> Panel fuse is missing, and doesn't go on in day-time, even when
>> Taillight relay is bypassed and Panel Fuse is energized.
>> 16 IG R-L to Gauge1 FUSE, 12v when ign. sw. ON, powers the
>> pass. seat belt warning light and much other stuff, only have 2006
>> list.)
>> 17 ACC Gr to ECU ACC FUSE, 12v when key in ACC or ON (also
>> headlights, fog light, speedo meter, power mirror, AUTO LIGHT CONTROL)
>> 18 ILL- W-G to speedo cluster (combination meter)
>> 19 TAMO LG-R to skid control ECU. What does this have to do with
>> any of the 3 gauges in the clock?
>> 22 B+ R from Dome FUSE, always 12v, needed to keep clock
>> running all the time (also dome light, fob receiver, garage door
>> opener)
>>
>>
>> But does any of this show how the lights in the Clock are on at night
>> and not on during the day?
>>
>>
>> (Part of the reason it's taken so long to ask this question is that some
>> testing can only be done at night and some only int
>
>Its certain that the problem is the programming, not the simple
>electrical connections. The evidence for that is the delay you
>see when covering and uncovering the photocell. That proves
>that it isnt simple electrical connections driving what you see.

Even so, regardless of what the programming in the body ECU or elsewhere
is, where the wires go into the Clock, there has to be something at
night that provides power to those lights, or in the daytime, a signal
that tells the Clock not to light up.

I'm ready to rewire the car to make up for that.

In the first case, if I could figure out*** what pin provides the power
for the light during the night, I could hot wire** it to provide the
same power during the day.

In the second case, if I could figure out which pin the signal comes to
the Clock to say don't light up, I could cut that wire. At least until
I saw what else that disabled. It might be worth it, it might not.

**That's what I tried to do in the first place. I removed the Panel
fuse but ran a jumper from the "On-when-runing power to the Seat Heater
switch" to the Seat-heater-light. Now all those dash lights in parallel
with the seat heater light are on whenever he car is running, not just
at night.

I want to do something similar for the Clock, but... Pin 18 goes to
terminal Ill-, which stand for Illumination, but it's negative. I guess
the possitive is one of those fuses.

Hmm going back to the speedo cluster would make sense if there was a
dimmer control on the speedo, and in some of the toyotanation posts
about dashlight, they had success by twisting the dimmer knob past the
detent. But those cars were a year or two newer, and I don't have a
detent. If I twist any harder, I'll break it.

Still, maybe if I "hot"-wire Ill-, pin 18, that is, not making it bot
but grounding it, maybe that will bypass something in the speedo part of
the dash board. The wire is W-G and goes to the combinaton meter,
their word for the speedo cluster. There are in the wiring manual 160
instances of the word "combination". [-(

***I tried taking the Clock apart, but it was just a circuit board with
a chip and a few other parts.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 May 2021 00:57:36 -0400, Clare Snyder
<clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

>
>>>Its certain that the problem is the programming, not the simple
>>>electrical connections. The evidence for that is the delay you
>>>see when covering and uncovering the photocell. That proves
>>>that it isnt simple electrical connections driving what you see.
>>
>>Even so, regardless of what the programming in the body ECU or elsewhere
>>is, where the wires go into the Clock, there has to be something at
>>night that provides power to those lights, or in the daytime, a signal
>>that tells the Clock not to light up.
>>
>>I'm ready to rewire the car to make up for that.
>>
>>In the first case, if I could figure out*** what pin provides the power
>>for the light during the night, I could hot wire** it to provide the
>>same power during the day.
>>
>>In the second case, if I could figure out which pin the signal comes to
>>the Clock to say don't light up, I could cut that wire. At least until
>>I saw what else that disabled. It might be worth it, it might not.
>
>
>I THINK it is the green and white wire on pin 18 - the "illum -" wire
>- if Im right disconnecting will make he light stay off?

Makes sense.

> This is ASSUMING it is not STILL just an issue of not having the
>instrument panel dimmer adjusted properly which was my FIRST
>suggestion months ago.

I don't remember ignoring that line but I've been busy lately and
haven't caught readers here up on a lot of projects in progresss. I
hope to do that soon.

Anyhow, the dimmer didn't solve my problem (even though it seemed to
solve the opposite problem for people asking questions on the web.

And there is no detent on this dimmer.

BUT WHAT IS REALLY INTERESTING I LEARNED LAST NIGHT. I went out at 2AM
to check the car, even though I was sleepy and didn't really want to,
because if I didn't, I'd have to have waited until the next night.

So... in the dark, when the taillight relay is bypassed so that the dash
lights** are on even in the daytime, and the Clock lights are on
(because it's dark) the dimmer controls the brightness of all the
lights, every one***

BUT, AND GET THIS BUT, when I remove the jumper wire**** so that the the
dash lights** are not lit, then the dimmer control has NO EFFECT on the
Clock lights. The lights are at full brightness.

So in a way the Clock lights are independant of the Dash lights, but
otoh, they're simultaneously controlled by the same dimmer. That took
some work on Toyota's part.

The dimmer wiring isn't shown in the wiring manual -- I don't think the
dimmer is shown at all and certainly not individual wires -- but now
that the speedometer is out and its back off, I can see a little box
1/2" cube, on the surface of the circuit board, directly behind the
dimmer knob. It has a short connector, 1" wires, to the ciruit board
with yellow, red, blue, and black wires. I think it might only need 3
wires if Toyota had wired all the lights the same and the fourth might
be related to the Clock.

But I don't know which wire is the fourth, and if I did I wouldn't know
whether to cut it or to ground it, or what. The circuitry is too
confusing to me, since sometimes the dimmer has an effect and sometimes
it doesn't. And it's too close to other wiring it could affect. OTOH,
if nothing else works I might come back and fool around here.

It is so complicated, and Toyota went to a lot of trouble to make it
work this way, when if they'd done nothing and wired the Clock lights
the same as the other panel lights, it would have made more sense IMO,
not just for me but for anyone. And it would have enabled me to easily
hotwire them.

I don't miss not having lights on the other dash lights during the day
time, because everything is visible anyhow. The instruments are moving
needles, or there are buttons that can't be missed. As to the shift
indicator, I rarely look at that. I know where I put the shifter. As to
the glove box light, I think it should be illuminated in the day time
too, but it's been 30 years since I hunted for something in the glove
box. It's only the clock and the mpg/etc. that I want to see, and
because they are the only LCD indicators in the car, these are the ones
I can't read.

**Speedo, radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, console gear indicator
light, and glovebox light.

***(FWIW, the clock lights start to dim a little behind the others but
they all get totally dark at the same point, or maybe almost totally
dark.)

****The jumper wire goes from one wire to another on a seat heater
switch, from 12volts when the car is running to the switch light and
from that wire to all the other dash lights. I've removed the Panel
fuse that would power all these things, so that the taillight relay is
closed has no effect. The power is totally dependant on whether the
jumper wire is in position.

>>
>>
>>**That's what I tried to do in the first place. I removed the Panel
>>fuse but ran a jumper from the "On-when-runing power to the Seat Heater
>>switch" to the Seat-heater-light. Now all those dash lights in parallel
>>with the seat heater light are on whenever he car is running, not just
>>at night.
>>
>>I want to do something similar for the Clock, but... Pin 18 goes to
>>terminal Ill-, which stand for Illumination, but it's negative. I guess
>>the possitive is one of those fuses.
>>
>>Hmm going back to the speedo cluster would make sense if there was a
>>dimmer control on the speedo, and in some of the toyotanation posts
>>about dashlight, they had success by twisting the dimmer knob past the
>>detent. But those cars were a year or two newer, and I don't have a
>>detent. If I twist any harder, I'll break it.
>>
>>Still, maybe if I "hot"-wire Ill-, pin 18, that is, not making it bot
>>but grounding it, maybe that will bypass something in the speedo part of
>>the dash board. The wire is W-G and goes to the combinaton meter,
>>their word for the speedo cluster. There are in the wiring manual 160
>>instances of the word "combination". [-(
>>
>>***I tried taking the Clock apart, but it was just a circuit board with
>>a chip and a few other parts.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 May 2021 00:50:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
<clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

>On Thu, 20 May 2021 12:40:39 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>Addressed especially to Clare and to anyone who thinks he's as smart as
>>Clare is.
>>
>>Here is the wiring diagram for this car,
>>https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoj71v8wiwwqtd7/Solara-Clock.odg?dl=0
>>It's an odg file, that LibreOffice Draw creates. I think most people
>>have programs that can display it, or the notes below have almost all
>>the same information.
>>
>
>Why couldn't you just use a JPEG file??

Maybe I could have, but... When I used the mouse select the Clock pages
from the PDF, it only picked up the small amount of text. and I didn't
know how else to separate the 3 pages I wanted from the 400 page manual.
Is there another way?

>>I made an understandable but mistaken assumption in my first posts about
>>this, so let's forget about them and let me ask the question correctly:
>>
>>The instruments above my car radio on a 2005 Toyota Solara can't be seen
>>in the daytime, unless the sun shines in directly through the rear
>>window, but they are illuminated when it's dark out. The illumination is
>>fine and they are easy to read.
>>
>>I want to read them in the daytime too!
>>
>>
>>The instrument unit includes
>> 1 Trip Monitor (MPG, Avg MPG, DTE, avg MPH, ET)
>> 2 Clock
>> 3 Outdoor Temp
>> Passenger present but seat belt not on - light.
>>
>>From now on I'll call this whole thing the Clock.
>>
>>1 and 2 light up with ignition in ACC and ON, 3 lights up in ON, but in
>>all cases, only if it's dark out.
>> This is true when the headlight switch is in the Auto position or any
>>other position such as Parking light, Headlight, or OFF.
>>
>>What misled me before is that I've observed and the wiring diagram
>>agrees that when it gets dark, a photocell signals the Body ECU which
>>closes the Taillight relay and that sends power to the taillights and
>>the Panel fuse, and the Panel fuse powers lights in the speedometer
>>cluster, radio buttons, AC buttons, seat heater switches, gear shift
>>indicator and the glove box.
>>
>>I mistakenly assumed that since those lights go on at night, the Clock
>>lights go on for the same reason. But in fact, the Clock lights go on
>>in the dark even if the Panel fuse has been removed, and they don't go
>>on in the daytime even if the Panel fuse has been bypassed to a source
>>that is 12V whenever the car is running, even in the daytime, and when
>>doing that has made all those other lights go on all the time that
>>normally go on only at night.
>>
>>So am I to believe there are two separate mechanisms for turning on
>>lights at night? Why would they do that, and what would be the other
>>mechanism?
>>
>>BTW, if I use a dark-colored multi-layer rag to cover the light sensor
>>in the dashboard, I will trick the headlights into going on in the day
>>time. It takes 4 or 5 seconds for them to go on, and then about the
>>same for them to go off when I remove the rag. But doing this doesn't
>>make the Clock lights go on. But night time does make the clock lights
>>go on. What makes the car think it's night if covering the light
>>sensor didn't do that? WHAT ELSE COULD THERE BE?
>>
>>
>>So I looked in detail at the Clock. It's supplied by 5, count 'em,
>>five, fuses. Pins 7, 15, 16, 17, 22
>>
>>7 comes from the IGN fuse, 12v when engine running
>>15 comes from the Panel fuse, 12v when it's dark out
>>16 comes from the Gauge1 fuse, 12v when ignition sw. is ON
>>17 comes from the ECU ACC fuse, 12v when key in ACC or ON
>>22 comes from the Dome fuse, always 12v,
>>
>>All the pins are described next. Pin 6 seems hard to understand.
>>
>>Pin 6. TAU terminal on the clock. Goes to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why
>>does it have input from the Injector. To calculate MPG, really? Even
>>though it has input on 5 labeled Fuel and on 12 labeled Speed. So why?
>>Certainly not to tell the clock when it's dark out.
>>
>
>Tachometer input and injector pulse width used to calculate fuel flow.

Yeah, that makes a lot more sense than trying to use the fuel gauge.
>
>Is there ever power on 18? How about when disconnected? Looks to me it
>is the GROUND for the illumination of the clock. Try disconnecting it
>(remove the pin from the connector) and grounding the clock side of
>the connector. (Green and white).
>
>I SUSPECT the clock lighting is controlled by the combination panel
>grounding that wire..

This afternoon I took the speedometer cluster out to look at it. One
connector is 24 wires and the other 40, but none are white/green, so I'm
going to have to take out the clock assembly again. It's hard to get
out, especially without damaging the 15-year old vinyl dashboard. The
shop manual** says to push from behind which struck me as absurd, until
today, because now that the speedo cluster is out, I can get part of my
hand on part of the clock, just to push it enough to get a tool in and
push it some more. I did the left half unclipped but then I got hungry
and it got dark. I'll finish tomorrow probably.

It's probably good there is no white/green wire because the wiring
manual doesn't show one, and it's good that the manual matches reality.

It's bad that the wiring manual doesn't show all the wires. That's been
an ongoing problem wrt other parts of the car too. More about that in
another post, yet to be come.

I was ready to take out the speedo even though I didn't expect to find
the right wire, becaue I want to disconnect the beeper that squeals when
the key is in the ignition, the engine not running, and the driver's
door is open. More about that in another thread, yet to be posted.

>If so, disconnecting it will make the clock
>never light up. Grounding the wire will turn the lights on any time
>power is supplied.

Makes sense.

>I would NOT ground it while still connected to the
>combination meter - not LIKELY to cause any damage, but I wouldn't
>risk it. To be SAFE I would use a variable resistor - about 500 ohms?

I have loads of that stuff, just about any value.

>and grond it gradually to see of it comes on dimly and gets brighter
>as the resistance drops - in case I'm wrong in my ASS U mption
>>
>> Label Color Conn. Function
>> 1 GND1 W-B
>> 2 TH- B-W IG6 AC ambient temp sensor (near front bumper)
>> 3 TH+ G-R IG6 return from 2
>> 4 SW 1 R Steering wheel display-control, and on to ground
>> 5 FUEL LG-R to speedo cluster, fuel gauge, used for mpg display
>> 6 TAU L IM2 to Injector No. 1 WHY? Why does it have input
>>from the Injector. For MPG? but it has input from 5-Fuel and
>>12-Speed.
>> 7 TAUB B-R IM2 return from Injector No. 1 and also to IGN FUSE, 12v
>>when engine running
>> 8 TBD L-B airbag sensor, 1
>> 9 TX-1 W-B **but doesn't appy to my car
>> 10 TX-2 W-B same as 1 for some reason
>> 11 PBEW L-R airbag sensor, 2
>> 12 SPD V-W to speedometer, used I'm sure for mpg display
>> 13 DATA G-Y IK1 WHY? to TAM A11(A) A/C Control Assembly. So does
>>TAM mean Temperature AMbient? I guess so, since the AC page shows just
>>this part of the clock including pins 2 and 3 (the ambient temperature
>>sensor), and since the instrument 3 in the list at the top is the
>>outdoor temperature.
>> 14 P-AB V airbag sensor, 3
>> 15 TAIL G to Panel FUSE, but light goes on at night even when
>>Panel fuse is missing, and doesn't go on in day-time, even when
>>Taillight relay is bypassed and Panel Fuse is energized.
>> 16 IG R-L to Gauge1 FUSE, 12v when ign. sw. ON, powers the
>>pass. seat belt warning light and much other stuff, only have 2006
>>list.)
>> 17 ACC Gr to ECU ACC FUSE, 12v when key in ACC or ON (also
>>headlights, fog light, speedo meter, power mirror, AUTO LIGHT CONTROL)
>> 18 ILL- W-G to speedo cluster (combination meter)
>> 19 TAMO LG-R to skid control ECU. What does this have to do with
>>any of the 3 gauges in the clock?
>> 22 B+ R from Dome FUSE, always 12v, needed to keep clock
>>running all the time (also dome light, fob receiver, garage door
>>opener)
>>
>>
>>But does any of this show how the lights in the Clock are on at night
>>and not on during the day?
>>
>>
>>(Part of the reason it's taken so long to ask this question is that some
>>testing can only be done at night and some only i[n the day.]

Now that the speedometer is out, I can silence the annoying**** buzzer.

It sits on top of a circuit board, and I have no access to the other
side (because there are 4 needle meters*** mounted to the same pcb whose
needles are on shafts that go alll t he way to the other side.

If you were me, or better yet if you were you, would you

a) stuff cloth in the little hole in the piezo buzzer to make the
noise lower, hopefully much lower

b) destory the buzzer from the top. (Will this cause trouble.)

c) after it's destroyed, attach wires that go below the dash so if I
find I made a big mistake, I can connect another buzzer, at least
temporarily.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-electronics/PKM22EPPH2001-B0/1219322

**Speed, tach, gas, coolant temp

The obvious way to avoid this noise is to disconnect the driver's door
switch. More than one youtube recommends this. One calls it the perfect
way, but it's not. This worked fine when there was more than one
switch. I think my LeBaron door had 3 of them. One for the "dome
light", one for some buzzer, and one for ???

But because of microprocessors, Toyota decided to get by with one
switch.

First problem, unlock the door with the fob, get in the car, a couple
minutes later the doors lock and maybe the immobilizer turns on. Because
it doesn't know I got in the car, so it resets (That's because of
thieves who would drive by sending out unlock codes, but they wouldn't
know immediatley which car they unlocked, so if they didn't get there
within say 30 seconds, the alarm re-arms.)

Second problem even worse: When I turned off the car, opened the door,
used the lock button to lock all the doors, and got out, the alarm
probably was set in 30 seconds but nothing turned out the headlights. It
didnt' know I had left the car, thought I was sitting inside and just
locked the doors. Already left the lights on once for 5 minutes and
once for 30!! I can't live like this. (There might also be a 30-minute
timer, but who knows if maybe I messed that up too.)

I think there was a 3rd problem, not sure.

So because of these unforeseen problems, I suppose crushing the buzzer
might lead to unforeseen problems.

What do you think?

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 May 2021 22:42:38 -0400, micky
<NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>I was ready to take out the speedo even though I didn't expect to find
>the right wire, becaue I want to disconnect the beeper that squeals when
>the key is in the ignition, the engine not running, and the driver's
>door is open. More about that in another thread, yet to be posted.

**** The buzzer beeps 4 times whenver I start the car, to remind me to
put on the seatbelt. This doesn't bother me much because it's only 4
times, and I suppose it doesn't do that if I've already put the belt
on.

But it beeps constantly if the driver's door is open, the engine off,
and the key in the ignition. This was intolerable when working on the
fusebox, the added switch to open the trunk electically, and opening the
speedommeter to fix the Clock light. So I disconnected the switch
temporarily, but there are lots of shorter times when I hate this noise.

So I offer choices a, b, or c, above. Which should I do.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 May 2021 22:19:52 -0400, micky
<NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

>
>> This is ASSUMING it is not STILL just an issue of not having the
>>instrument panel dimmer adjusted properly which was my FIRST
>>suggestion months ago.
>
>I don't remember ignoring that line but I've been busy lately and
>haven't caught readers here up on a lot of projects in progresss. I
>hope to do that soon.
>
>Anyhow, the dimmer didn't solve my problem (even though it seemed to
>solve the opposite problem for people asking questions on the web.
>
>And there is no detent on this dimmer.
>
>BUT WHAT IS REALLY INTERESTING I LEARNED LAST NIGHT. I went out at 2AM
>to check the car, even though I was sleepy and didn't really want to,
>because if I didn't, I'd have to have waited until the next night.
>
>So... in the dark, when the taillight relay is bypassed so that the dash
>lights** are on even in the daytime, and the Clock lights are on
>(because it's dark) the dimmer controls the brightness of all the
>lights, every one***
>
>BUT, AND GET THIS BUT, when I remove the jumper wire**** so that the the
>dash lights** are not lit, then the dimmer control has NO EFFECT on the
>Clock lights. The lights are at full brightness.
>
>
>So in a way the Clock lights are independant of the Dash lights, but
>otoh, they're simultaneously controlled by the same dimmer. That took
>some work on Toyota's part.
>
>
>The dimmer wiring isn't shown in the wiring manual -- I don't think the
>dimmer is shown at all and certainly not individual wires -- but now
>that the speedometer is out and its back off, I can see a little box
>1/2" cube, on the surface of the circuit board, directly behind the
>dimmer knob. It has a short connector, 1" wires, to the ciruit board
>with yellow, red, blue, and black wires. I think it might only need 3
>wires if Toyota had wired all the lights the same and the fourth might
>be related to the Clock.
>
>But I don't know which wire is the fourth, and if I did I wouldn't know
>whether to cut it or to ground it, or what. The circuitry is too
>confusing to me, since sometimes the dimmer has an effect and sometimes
>it doesn't. And it's too close to other wiring it could affect. OTOH,
>if nothing else works I might come back and fool around here.
>
>
>It is so complicated, and Toyota went to a lot of trouble to make it
>work this way, when if they'd done nothing and wired the Clock lights
>the same as the other panel lights, it would have made more sense IMO,
>not just for me but for anyone. And it would have enabled me to easily
>hotwire them.
>
>I don't miss not having lights on the other dash lights during the day
>time, because everything is visible anyhow. The instruments are moving
>needles, or there are buttons that can't be missed. As to the shift
>indicator, I rarely look at that. I know where I put the shifter. As to
>the glove box light, I think it should be illuminated in the day time
>too, but it's been 30 years since I hunted for something in the glove
>box. It's only the clock and the mpg/etc. that I want to see, and
>because they are the only LCD indicators in the car, these are the ones
>I can't read.
>
>
>
>**Speedo, radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, console gear indicator
>light, and glovebox light.

Still working on this but a temporary report.

Took out the speedometer, but even though there are 64 wires spread over
2 connectors (40 and 24) none of the wires were the right color W-G.

So I had to take out the Clock cluster again.

This time it was a little easier because with the speedometer out, I
could get my hand in and behind the clock. Couldn't push more than a
bit, but enough to stick a screwdriver in from the top.

Took the clock out, again, because can't see the wiring otherwise.

20 wires and one is the right one, ILL-, W-G, and I will cut it today
and see what happens, and try grounding the clock end, maybe through a
resistor, and see what happens. Except it will be 93 degrees so may
wait until tomorrow.

Last night I came home at dark with no speedometer and no clock and was
quite surprised that NONE OF THE DASH/PANEL LIGHTS WERE ON!!! The
outside lights worked, inclduing the turn signals, but the 12v that is
supposed to be on whenever the engine is running must not have been.

I almost know the wiring diagram by heart now and I find that another
curiosity. Taking out the speedo and the clock shoudbn't have caused
this but it did. I should have checked the wipers, washer, seat
heaters, etc. which are on the same relay. A relay that should have
been closed when the ignition is on (even if the car isn't running.)
I'll do that tonight.