On 17.6.2021 01:36, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
>> Or do I have it backwards?
>
> Yep.

Let's try again then to figure out what the problem can be.

> Just friction.
> The male connector has a tongue with foils on thephenolic for contact.

If the male is the cable then it has an internal set of gold teeth.
Those gold teeth must be the "tongue" you speak of.
But the cable end is not at all looking like a tongue.
It's more like a mouth with teeth on the top and bottom of the mouth.

Or do I still have it wrong?

> The female connector has springed metal fingers.

By female I'm assuming you mean the part that is on the phone.
This part DOES look like a mouth with a tongue.
The mouth is the opening in the phone.
The tongue is the circuit board with lines in it.
Those lines in the female tongue line up with those in the male cord teeth.

Or do I still have it wrong?

> It's the pressure of the fingers on the foils that keeps them together.

If I assume the female is the mouth with the tongue (although you said the
opposite) that is part of the phone then what you're telling me is that
circuit board with the lines in it has "fingers" somewhere.

But where?

> There is no latch mechanism. Just push in, pull out.

That at least explains why I can't see any latch.

I just see the part in the phone looks like a mouth with a tongue that has
lines in it and the part on the cable has a mouth which has teeth on the top
and bottom which line up with the lines in the female tongue in the phone.

But I don't see fingers (spring like things?) anywhere.

> While there might be a feel of a latch, that's outdents in the metal
> shell that don't extend all the way out:

That is the part I don't understand the most.
What is an outdent?
Where is it?
What is this "shell" you speak of?
Is the shell the "mouth"?

> you push in the plug, it hits the outdents a ways in,
> you push in harder, the outdents disform the shell to have it
> hold tighter onto the smooth shell sliding in.
> The outdents are very small, so you may not see them,
> and they are only to use disforming to add more friction.

It must be these "outdents" that are damaged.
Can you explain them a bit more to me so I can look for them?
--
Doveryay, no proveryay.

Won't help to explain more. If the cable were damaged, it twould be
easy to toss the old cable and use a new one. Hell, if it were a
double-ended cord with USB-C at both ends, you could test the fit using
the other end of the cable.

From what you've described, the USB-C port in the phone is damaged. You
won't be able to fix it. If you have the skills, you can dismantle the
phone, desolder the old port from the PCB (if it isn't cracked), and
solder in a new port, and reassemble the phone. Else, a shop will have
to replace the one in the phone. You can't repair the damaged port.
It's been physically damaged. Check prices at a computer shop. My
guess is $50 to $100; else, keep using the rubber band.

Ken Blake <ken@invalidemail.com> wrote:
[...]

> Almost certainly you have it backwards. The male is the plug. The female
> is what it plugs into.

That's indeed what most people would say. But as nospam mentions,
USB-C - and for that matter many, many other 'plugs'/'receptacles' [1] -
are hermaphrodites. Both 'plug' (i.e. at the phone end of the cable) and
'receptacle' (the bit in the phone) are male/female and female/male.

I normally use 'plug' and 'receptacle', but many people have a hard
time understanding 'receptacle'. Often - but not always - 'port' can be
used instead of 'receptacle'.

[1] Other USB connections, HDMI, laptop DC, coax, RCA, etc., etc..

On 17.6.2021 05:57, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
> From what you've described, the USB-C port in the phone is damaged.

I took pictures. Is there a easy way to show you them?
--
Doveryay, no proveryay.

In article <sah3dr$119s$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Ilya Kraskov
<Ilyanospam123Kraskov123@gomail.com.ua> wrote:

> I took pictures. Is there a easy way to show you them?

upload the images to imgur.com and post a link.

however, based on your description, the port is damaged and needs to be
repaired.

Ilya Kraskov <Ilyanospam123Kraskov123@gomail.com.ua> wrote:

> VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
>
>> From what you've described, the USB-C port in the phone is damaged.
>
> I took pictures. Is there a easy way to show you them?

Upload to any of the many online pic storage services, like imgur and
tinypic. I'm sure other users can recommended other similar services.
You could also upload them using Dropbox, OneDrive, or Google Drive to a
public/shared folder, and give URLs to those pics. You would need a
very good camera to get macro pics into the insides of the connectors
along with good lighting. A smartphone's camera probably won't get a
close enough pic. Hell, even your eyes cannot focus that close with
magnification to not only see inside but to enlarge portions of the
connectors to see any warpage, flattened outdents, and other micro
damage. Sometimes it's more a matter of feel than vision. I can look
at a timing chain pulley and not see any damage, but trying to spin it
to feel some gritty motion, hearing some whine, and that it doesn't keep
spinning freely would let me know the bearings are worn. Showing a pic
of an HDD that is getting super hot won't let you hear the whine of a
worn spindle. You can upload your pics, but they'd have to be magnified
macro photos to see what the shell, fingers, and PCB look like.

Have you tried the other end of the USB-C cable to see if that end grabs
okay into the phone's USB-C port?

In article <own32verfkfc$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>
wrote:

> You would need a
> very good camera to get macro pics into the insides of the connectors
> along with good lighting.

not needed.

> A smartphone's camera probably won't get a
> close enough pic.

it absolutely will.

On 18.6.2021 06:52, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
> Upload to any of the many online pic storage services, like imgur and
> tinypic. I'm sure other users can recommended other similar services.

Are these close up enough?
https://i.imgur.com/34jEUyN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3XS3OTZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9zT5CFO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/B4NvV44.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bPUxfuM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pj89Dzg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qS4K9LA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qxOI8aO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/t3hF02W.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/v3MtvDk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VsEtzLe.jpg

> Have you tried the other end of the USB-C cable to see if that end grabs
> okay into the phone's USB-C port?

I have tried new cables which work in other people's phones.
It's definitely in the part that is the hole in the phone.

But I don't see ANY latching mechanism anywhere.
Do you?
--
Doveryay, no proveryay.

Ilya Kraskov <Ilyanospam123Kraskov123@gomail.com.ua> wrote:

> On 18.6.2021 06:52, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
>> Upload to any of the many online pic storage services, like imgur and
>> tinypic. I'm sure other users can recommended other similar services.
>
> Are these close up enough?
> https://i.imgur.com/34jEUyN.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/3XS3OTZ.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/9zT5CFO.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/B4NvV44.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/bPUxfuM.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/pj89Dzg.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/qS4K9LA.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/qxOI8aO.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/t3hF02W.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/v3MtvDk.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/VsEtzLe.jpg

Not really. Smartphone cameras, and non-macro camera, usually have a
minimal focal length of 28 mm (~1 inch). Any closer and you lose
sharpness and contrast. To get super-close photos requires a camera
with a shorter focal length and much higher pixel density than whatever
you used. In your photos, everything is far too blurry.

I'm not a professional photographer. If you have an SLR, you might try
a lens that goes down to 15 mm, but the density would still have to be
high to prevent blur or bleeding. Macro lenses aren't cheap.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1165599-REG/venus_optics_laowa_15mm_f_4_macro.html
(but that's without magnification)

90-105 mm macro lenses are good for showing flowers up close, but not
for sharp detailed pics inside a tiny connector. That's why i figured
you could take pics, but they wouldn't be of help.

>> Have you tried the other end of the USB-C cable to see if that end grabs
>> okay into the phone's USB-C port?
>
> I have tried new cables which work in other people's phones.
> It's definitely in the part that is the hole in the phone.
>
> But I don't see ANY latching mechanism anywhere.
> Do you?

Just friction.

Is the PCB inside the port connector straight, or did it get pushed at
an angle? If pushed to an angle, the fingers on the PCB will have less
contact with the fingers in the cable connector.

To see if it's the shell (you can see that in your pics) that got bent
or distorted out of shape, so it doesn't grab tight the shell on the
cable's connector, you could try a sheet of paper on one side. If not
enough, use another sheet, and so on. Since you are reducing the gap
between shells, friction should go up. If using paper shims shows its
the shells that aren't pressing well against each other, you could try
to distort the outer shell (in the phone's port) by using a micro flat
screwdriver to wedge it betwee the outside of the shell and the phone
case, twist or pull down on the screwdriver, to create a dent in the
shell. Don't try to create a dent in the circular portion of the shell,
but in a flat side. Just a little at a time, while testing with the
cable to see if you've upped the friction. Once you get a bit of
friction on one side, do the same on the other side of the port's shell.

v v
__________
/ \
( )
\__________/
^ ^

If you don't have a delicate touch, and test a tiny bit at a time for
many times, you'll just damage more the port's shell. You're trying to
get the port's shell to press a bit more against the cable connector's
shell to up the friction. You will never be able to get a nice clean
straight dent in the shell. That requires replacing the port connector.

Call up a local computer shop and get an estimate over the phone to
replace your phone's USB port. With the right tools and a little
expertise, it's an easy job. A right-sized spludger, micro-tip
soldering iron, and solder sucker or wick tape, and solder is probably
all that is needed. However, if your phone is rated as waterproof
(well, water resistant), it has a butyl o-ring between the clamshell
halves of the case for the seal, and taking apart the case will likely
break or stretch that seal, so the shop may charge you not just for the
USB-C connector replacement but also for the O-ring.

In article <js3d3fs3pdhi$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>
wrote:

> > Are these close up enough?
> > https://i.imgur.com/34jEUyN.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/3XS3OTZ.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/9zT5CFO.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/B4NvV44.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/bPUxfuM.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/pj89Dzg.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/qS4K9LA.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/qxOI8aO.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/t3hF02W.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/v3MtvDk.jpg
> > https://i.imgur.com/VsEtzLe.jpg
>
> Not really.

they are very definitely close up enough.

what they don't show is internal damage, nor can they, without opening
the phone.

> Smartphone cameras, and non-macro camera, usually have a
> minimal focal length of 28 mm (~1 inch). Any closer and you lose
> sharpness and contrast. To get super-close photos requires a camera
> with a shorter focal length and much higher pixel density than whatever
> you used. In your photos, everything is far too blurry.

completely wrong.

smartphone cameras usually have a focal length of about 4-6 mm, roughly
the diagonal of the sensor. the shorter the focal length, the wider the
field of view.

close-up photos requires a lens that can focus closer, which is
unrelated to its focal length and field of view. often that's a macro
lens but it doesn't have to be. the longer the focal length, the
greater the working distance, which can be useful.

> I'm not a professional photographer.

then don't pretend to be one.

> If you have an SLR, you might try
> a lens that goes down to 15 mm, but the density would still have to be
> high to prevent blur or bleeding.

15mm is an ultra-wide angle lens for an slr, not a macro, and density
makes no sense in this context, nor does bleeding. using such a lens
would not work at all for close-up work.

> Macro lenses aren't cheap.

some are.

regardless, a macro lens or an slr is not needed for this.

> 90-105 mm macro lenses are good for showing flowers up close, but not
> for sharp detailed pics inside a tiny connector. That's why i figured
> you could take pics, but they wouldn't be of help.

also wrong.

if he were to go the slr and macro route, which is not necessary, a
typical 90mm macro would be fine.

> Call up a local computer shop and get an estimate over the phone to
> replace your phone's USB port. With the right tools and a little
> expertise, it's an easy job.

no it isn't, and they'll want to see it first before giving an
estimate, assuming they even work on phones, which a local computer
shop is unlikely to do.

a phone repair shop is the appropriate place to call, and the phone
likely needs a logic board replacement, since the usb port is not
usually separate. if it is, that will make it a little easier but not
by that much. it still requires opening up the phone, which is usually
a *lot* of work and requires special tools.

> A right-sized spludger, micro-tip
> soldering iron, and solder sucker or wick tape, and solder is probably
> all that is needed.

very definitely not.

> However, if your phone is rated as waterproof
> (well, water resistant), it has a butyl o-ring between the clamshell
> halves of the case for the seal, and taking apart the case will likely
> break or stretch that seal, so the shop may charge you not just for the
> USB-C connector replacement but also for the O-ring.

maybe, but worst case it loses its water resistance, which most people
don't need.

On 19.6.2021 09:32, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
> In your photos, everything is far too blurry.

Thank you for looking at the photos. I am sorry they are blurry.
I will try to download a camera app that has a macro feature.

> If you have an SLR, you might try a lens that goes down to 15 mm

I don't have an SLR.
After I took the pictures I looked on the net for a close up.

I couldn't find any close real photograph on the internet (just diagrams).
https://www.google.com/search?q=real+photo+usb+port+cellphone+closeup&tbm=isch

>> But I don't see ANY latching mechanism anywhere.
>> Do you?
>
> Just friction.

Then my problem is the packing of objects in the backpack in the car
drive with the cord in the port wrapped around the phone removed friction.

> Is the PCB inside the port connector straight, or did it get pushed at
> an angle? If pushed to an angle, the fingers on the PCB will have less
> contact with the fingers in the cable connector.

As I remember at the very first few seconds something was at an angle
but I straightened it so now if you look everything is exactly straight.

> To see if it's the shell (you can see that in your pics) that got bent
> or distorted out of shape, so it doesn't grab tight the shell on the
> cable's connector, you could try a sheet of paper on one side.

The shell looks perfect to me in the photos.

> If using paper shims shows its the shells that aren't pressing well
> against each other, you could try to distort the outer shell

I will try to make a shim. I can use paper or plastic from the trash.
If the shim works I can try to bend the middle shell on top or bottom.

> Call up a local computer shop and get an estimate over the phone to
> replace your phone's USB port.

If it needs a new port I will probably just try to replace it.
But I have to figure out what exactly is wrong with it first.
Or I will end up replacing the wrong thing.

Thank you for looking at the photos.
I am sorry they are blurry.
I will try to find a macro app to take closer photos of the insides.
--
Doveryay, no proveryay.

In article <sakvrm$18s9$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Ilya Kraskov
<Ilyanospam123Kraskov123@gomail.com.ua> wrote:

> On 19.6.2021 09:32, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
> > In your photos, everything is far too blurry.
>
> Thank you for looking at the photos. I am sorry they are blurry.

they're not blurry. he has no clue what he's even looking at.

> I will try to download a camera app that has a macro feature.

no need. macro apps can't do anything that isn't already available in
hardware, although they might fake it with digital zoom, which is not
good.

>
> Then my problem is the packing of objects in the backpack in the car
> drive with the cord in the port wrapped around the phone removed friction.

that apparently damaged the port.
> As I remember at the very first few seconds something was at an angle
> but I straightened it so now if you look everything is exactly straight.

that further suggests internal damage.

> If it needs a new port I will probably just try to replace it.

that is likely not possible without replacing the entire logic board.

> But I have to figure out what exactly is wrong with it first.

the port is damaged.

> Or I will end up replacing the wrong thing.

your best bet is to replace the phone, as it's usually very difficult
to impossible to fix just the usb port, and replacing the logic board
is almost certainly not going to be cost effective.

tl;dr your phone has hardware damage and it will likely cost more to
repair it than replace it.

Ilya Kraskov <Ilyanospam123Kraskov123@gomail.com.ua> wrote:

> Then my problem is the packing of objects in the backpack in the car
> drive with the cord in the port wrapped around the phone removed friction.

My guess is the shell for the phone USB-C port got distorted. Couldn't
see that in your pics, but likely per your description.

> As I remember at the very first few seconds something was at an angle
> but I straightened it so now if you look everything is exactly straight.

Might look straight, but if the bending enlarged the shell then the
connection will still be loose.

> If it needs a new port I will probably just try to replace it.
> But I have to figure out what exactly is wrong with it first.
> Or I will end up replacing the wrong thing.

The USB-C port is just one assembly. You unsolder it, and solder in the
new one. Soldering takes practice and a bit of knowledge on how solder
flows. I've seen too many users that thought just having the right
tools, like a low wattage soldering iron, rape a solder joint. A solder
sucker and wick will help, but sometimes you have to apply new solder to
get out the old+new solder. The old solder might be hard to get a good
contact with the soldering iron, so add new solder to bubble it atop,
and reheat to use the sucker. Also, the solder you use will likely have
a lower melting temperature. Rather than unsolder each assembly leg
(the case has legs soldered onto the PCB to provide strength) and the
pins, a heat gun can be handy to melt all the legs and pins, so you can
lift off the assembly all at once. Solder on all legs and pins will be
concurrently melted to allow removal of the assembly. Unsoldering one
leg at a time, and the same for the pins, and sucking or wicking off the
solder often results in some solder left behind that prevents removal of
the assembly without damage to the foils on the PCB. Then reheat and
suck out any remnant solder out of the PCB holes and remelt leftover
solder on the pin pads to wick off.

If any of the foil or pads lift off the PCB during heating, you'll have
to solder on some thin short wires to replace the damaged foil.

You can find several videos at Youtube, like:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=replace+usb-c+port+phone+solder

Also, when snapping apart the clamshell halves of the case, use a
plastic spludger to avoid damaging the case which would happen if you
use a metal flat blade screwdriver. The shell halves are held together
with plastic tangs with barbs on the ends that grip and snap into
recesses in the other shell half. There is always the danger of
snapping off a plastic tang when taking apart the case. If the phone
has an O-ring for water resistance, losing a tang means losing the water
resistance at that point, because the shell halves won't be squeezing
the O-ring at the missing tang. If there is an O-ring, it will likely
stick to one or both shell halves. You have to watch as you pry apart
the shell halves to prevent stretching the O-ring; else, it won't fit
when you try to reassemble. I haven't looked, but maybe somewhere sells
replacement O-ring or seals for your brand and model of phone.

Soldering cannot be done with the PCB inside the phone, so you have to
disconnect, unscrew, or dismantle the PCB to get it out of the phone.
Also, before you start any of this, remember to remove the battery from
the phone.

> Thank you for looking at the photos.
> I am sorry they are blurry.
> I will try to find a macro app to take closer photos of the insides.

An app will not reduce the minimal focal length of the camera. All the
app could do is try to sharpen the image, but that often means losing or
exaggerating detail. Lots of image tools have a focus or sharpen
function, so you probably don't need an app on your phone where you used
its camera, but a Win32 program on your desktop PC to modify the image.
Besides, it may still not be visible the port's shell got distorted,
like bending it away from the middle with the PCB with contact foils.
You could use a new USB-C assembly, if it extends far enough into the
hole, to compare the old USB-C port's shell with a new part.

I'd try the paper shimming first to see if the friction goes up enough
to hold the cable into the port. If shimming works, the shell for the
phone's USB-C port is distorted. Even if distorted enough to get loose,
I'm not sure you can get a sliver of paper to use as a shim. The warp
could be miniscule, and the paper too thick to get between the port's
shell and the cable's shell. Paper might also rip leaving you with
debris to clean out of the port. Got any plastic sheets, like the
protectors in which you slide in paper to add protection to a paper
document? If the shim is too thick to fit between the shells, don't
force it. You'll just widen the port's shell and exascerbate the
problem.

In article <10e93khn82my$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>
wrote:

>
> > If it needs a new port I will probably just try to replace it.
> > But I have to figure out what exactly is wrong with it first.
> > Or I will end up replacing the wrong thing.
>
> The USB-C port is just one assembly. You unsolder it, and solder in the
> new one.

no. the assembly is the board, which could be the entire logic board or
it could be a second board at the bottom of the phone, depending on the
device.

> Soldering takes practice and a bit of knowledge on how solder
> flows.

especially with something as tiny as a usb-c port, which is likely to
not be anything humans can re-solder.

> I've seen too many users that thought just having the right
> tools, like a low wattage soldering iron, rape a solder joint. A solder
> sucker and wick will help, but sometimes you have to apply new solder to
> get out the old+new solder. The old solder might be hard to get a good
> contact with the soldering iron, so add new solder to bubble it atop,
> and reheat to use the sucker. Also, the solder you use will likely have
> a lower melting temperature. Rather than unsolder each assembly leg
> (the case has legs soldered onto the PCB to provide strength) and the
> pins, a heat gun can be handy to melt all the legs and pins, so you can
> lift off the assembly all at once. Solder on all legs and pins will be
> concurrently melted to allow removal of the assembly. Unsoldering one
> leg at a time, and the same for the pins, and sucking or wicking off the
> solder often results in some solder left behind that prevents removal of
> the assembly without damage to the foils on the PCB. Then reheat and
> suck out any remnant solder out of the PCB holes and remelt leftover
> solder on the pin pads to wick off.
>
> If any of the foil or pads lift off the PCB during heating, you'll have
> to solder on some thin short wires to replace the damaged foil.
>
> You can find several videos at Youtube, like:
> https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=replace+usb-c+port+phone+solder
>
> Also, when snapping apart the clamshell halves of the case, use a
> plastic spludger to avoid damaging the case which would happen if you
> use a metal flat blade screwdriver. The shell halves are held together
> with plastic tangs with barbs on the ends that grip and snap into
> recesses in the other shell half. There is always the danger of
> snapping off a plastic tang when taking apart the case. If the phone
> has an O-ring for water resistance, losing a tang means losing the water
> resistance at that point, because the shell halves won't be squeezing
> the O-ring at the missing tang. If there is an O-ring, it will likely
> stick to one or both shell halves. You have to watch as you pry apart
> the shell halves to prevent stretching the O-ring; else, it won't fit
> when you try to reassemble. I haven't looked, but maybe somewhere sells
> replacement O-ring or seals for your brand and model of phone.

you've never actually done any of that, have you?

> Soldering cannot be done with the PCB inside the phone, so you have to
> disconnect, unscrew, or dismantle the PCB to get it out of the phone.

yes it can. it's not advised, but it's certainly possible.

> Also, before you start any of this, remember to remove the battery from
> the phone.

that part is true.

> > Thank you for looking at the photos.
> > I am sorry they are blurry.
> > I will try to find a macro app to take closer photos of the insides.
>
> An app will not reduce the minimal focal length of the camera.

it's the focal length of the *lens*, not the camera, and it only
affects working distance.

what matters for macro work is how close the lens can focus and the
resulting size of the image on the sensor.

non-macro lenses can be made to focus closer by using a close-up lens
(available for any lens, including smartphones) or an extension tube
(only cameras with interchangeable lenses). it's not as good as a true
macro but more than sufficient for many things.

> All the
> app could do is try to sharpen the image, but that often means losing or
> exaggerating detail.

actually, there's quite a bit more a macro app can do, such as focus
stacking.

> Lots of image tools have a focus or sharpen
> function, so you probably don't need an app on your phone where you used
> its camera, but a Win32 program on your desktop PC to modify the image.

false.

> Besides, it may still not be visible the port's shell got distorted,
> like bending it away from the middle with the PCB with contact foils.
> You could use a new USB-C assembly, if it extends far enough into the
> hole, to compare the old USB-C port's shell with a new part.

the damage is almost certainly internal and not visible to any camera
or eyeball for that matter.

> I'd try the paper shimming first to see if the friction goes up enough
> to hold the cable into the port. If shimming works, the shell for the
> phone's USB-C port is distorted. Even if distorted enough to get loose,
> I'm not sure you can get a sliver of paper to use as a shim. The warp
> could be miniscule, and the paper too thick to get between the port's
> shell and the cable's shell. Paper might also rip leaving you with
> debris to clean out of the port. Got any plastic sheets, like the
> protectors in which you slide in paper to add protection to a paper
> document? If the shim is too thick to fit between the shells, don't
> force it. You'll just widen the port's shell and exascerbate the
> problem.

don't do that.

paper or plastic is an insulator and will prevent all pins from making
contact, which means it won't work.

On Sat, 19 Jun 2021 04:17:50 +0300, Ilya Kraskov wrote:

> On 18.6.2021 06:52, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:
>> Upload to any of the many online pic storage services, like imgur and
>> tinypic. I'm sure other users can recommended other similar services.
>
> Are these close up enough?
> https://i.imgur.com/34jEUyN.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/3XS3OTZ.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/9zT5CFO.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/B4NvV44.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/bPUxfuM.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/pj89Dzg.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/qS4K9LA.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/qxOI8aO.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/t3hF02W.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/v3MtvDk.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/VsEtzLe.jpg
>
>> Have you tried the other end of the USB-C cable to see if that end grabs
>> okay into the phone's USB-C port?
>
> I have tried new cables which work in other people's phones.
> It's definitely in the part that is the hole in the phone.
>
> But I don't see ANY latching mechanism anywhere.
> Do you?

Using a thin needle to scrape out around the bottom of the connector
opening. I've had a remarkable amount pocket fuzz in there that kept
cables from seating all the way in. Be careful not to short the connector
contacts with a metal needle.

In article <saq6ma$kcv$2@dont-email.me>, Joe Beanfish
<joebeanfish@nospam.duh> wrote:

> Using a thin needle to scrape out around the bottom of the connector
> opening. I've had a remarkable amount pocket fuzz in there that kept
> cables from seating all the way in. Be careful not to short the connector
> contacts with a metal needle.

use a wood toothpick or plastic pick designed for that.

do *not* use anything metal.