Hello Gents, I took the starter out of my John Deere 440. It's got some weird clamp thingie that holds the bendix gear onto the shaft. Picture here.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gdir8rn40pbjhk8/Bendix-end.jpg?dl=0

Any idea what it is and how to get it off?
Thx,
George H.

On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 08:17:27 -0700 (PDT)
George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hello Gents, I took the starter out of my John Deere 440. It's got some weird clamp thingie that holds the bendix gear onto the shaft. Picture here.
>
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/gdir8rn40pbjhk8/Bendix-end.jpg?dl=0
>
>Any idea what it is and how to get it off?
>Thx,
>George H.

No clue... but this may be a new assembly here for ~$36

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313408263733

Maybe try contacting them?

I noticed other very similar looking, if not the same for sale there
too...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 11:50:25 AM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 08:17:27 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <gghe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Hello Gents, I took the starter out of my John Deere 440. It's got some weird clamp thingie that holds the bendix gear onto the shaft. Picture here.
> >
> >https://www.dropbox.com/s/gdir8rn40pbjhk8/Bendix-end.jpg?dl=0
> >
> >Any idea what it is and how to get it off?
> >Thx,
> >George H.
> No clue... but this may be a new assembly here for ~$36
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/313408263733
Hmm that looks to have the same 'cut out' on the end...
>
> Maybe try contacting them?
>
> I noticed other very similar looking, if not the same for sale there
> too...
Thanks. Yeah I ordered a new drive.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-440_Starter-Drive_565549.html
Maybe I'll be able to figure it out when the new drive arrives...
(It looks like there is a key way on the shaft.)

>
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI

On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 09:37:52 -0700 (PDT)
George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>Thanks. Yeah I ordered a new drive.
>https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-440_Starter-Drive_565549.html
>Maybe I'll be able to figure it out when the new drive arrives...
>(It looks like there is a key way on the shaft.)

Went searching on "old delco-remy bendix removal" and found this ;-)

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/delco-remy-starter-restoration-1953-minneapolis-moline-and-many-others.47100/page-2

Lots of pictures, discussion... and it sounds like you may need a
Bearing separator/puller...

Dates are from around a year ago so you could probably still ask some
questions too :)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 2:02:36 PM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 09:37:52 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <gghe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >Thanks. Yeah I ordered a new drive.
> >https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-440_Starter-Drive_565549.html
> >Maybe I'll be able to figure it out when the new drive arrives...
> >(It looks like there is a key way on the shaft.)
> Went searching on "old delco-remy bendix removal" and found this ;-)
>
> https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/delco-remy-starter-restoration-1953-minneapolis-moline-and-many-others.47100/page-2
Awesome! Thanks... I've got some reading to do!
I've also got some serious wear on a few (~10) teeth of the fly wheel drive gear. (I ordered a new gear as well, but I'm hoping that I can get the starter working with out having to put in a gear... dropping the motor.)
>
> Lots of pictures, discussion... and it sounds like you may need a
> Bearing separator/puller...
Hmm I've got bearing pullers, but it looks like I might have to buy something like that 'split pie plate with a hole in it' tool.
Anyway back to the shop.
Thx again,
George H.

>
> Dates are from around a year ago so you could probably still ask some
> questions too :)
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI

On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 2:02:36 PM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 09:37:52 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <gghe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >Thanks. Yeah I ordered a new drive.
> >https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-440_Starter-Drive_565549.html
> >Maybe I'll be able to figure it out when the new drive arrives...
> >(It looks like there is a key way on the shaft.)
> Went searching on "old delco-remy bendix removal" and found this ;-)
>
> https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/delco-remy-starter-restoration-1953-minneapolis-moline-and-many-others.47100/page-2
>
> Lots of pictures, discussion... and it sounds like you may need a
> Bearing separator/puller...
>
> Dates are from around a year ago so you could probably still ask some
> questions too :)
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI
OK got it off.
Now waiting for the new part.
George H.

On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 13:15:01 -0700 (PDT)
George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>OK got it off.
>Now waiting for the new part.

COOL! :)

So many times it isn't a difficult problem or thing to do but
understanding exactly what needs to be done... Wish I had a dollar
(used to be nickel, inflation...) for every time I broke something
trying to figure out the trick to getting it apart...

Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear
teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 6/29/2021 2:14 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 13:15:01 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>> OK got it off.
>> Now waiting for the new part.
>
> COOL! :)
>
> So many times it isn't a difficult problem or thing to do but
> understanding exactly what needs to be done... Wish I had a dollar
> (used to be nickel, inflation...) for every time I broke something
> trying to figure out the trick to getting it apart...

....or getting it back together. I had an old Dust Buster handheld vacuum whose
battery was no longer holding much charge. I decide to take it apart to see if
I could replace the battery. Right before I did, I was using it heavily and
really running down the charge, and for some reason it seemed to start charging
better again — not like when it was new, but much better. So I got it apart,
figured that the style of battery probably wasn't replaceable, and tried to
reassemble it. I could not get it back together for the life of me. $60 or so
dollars later, I have a newer (and much better) Dust Buster. But I'm irked I
couldn't manage to reassemble the old one.

>
> Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear
> teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.
>

On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 5:14:32 PM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 13:15:01 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <gghe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >OK got it off.
> >Now waiting for the new part.
> COOL! :)
>
> So many times it isn't a difficult problem or thing to do but
> understanding exactly what needs to be done... Wish I had a dollar
> (used to be nickel, inflation...) for every time I broke something
> trying to figure out the trick to getting it apart...
>
> Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear
> teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI
Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel house.
It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
(Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)

George H.

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sbg2fk$g2a$2@dont-email.me...
....
Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear
teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

-------------------------

I've read of cutting a slot where the broken tooth was and fitting another,
either salvaged from another damaged gear or a blank clamped to and filed to
match another tooth. This permits steel tooth replacements without heat
damage. It's retained by drilling holes along the slot edges and riveting in
pins.

I've ground lathe bits to the tooth or groove profiles and fly-cut the new
gears, one a tractor steering sector, the other an involute spline broach.
It's easier with a fixture that indexes the broken or pattern gear and
guides the bit in straight and centered.

"George Herold" wrote in message
news:25672896-2ac2-4702-82e8-110e67fe631bn@googlegroups.com...

Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel
house.
It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
(Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)

George H.
-------------------------------

Another application for brazing is restoring eroded starter contacts. The
brass didn't last as long as the original copper but it was simple to do
over again.

I keep vehicles that I like in good condition until finding parts becomes
difficult, although I check out new ones every few years. Monday the
salesman told me my 21-year-old car was in the best shape he'd ever seen,
mainly thanks to my rust repairs and new headlights. Then he told me about
the lower reliability of the more complex newer models, as he had previously
sold that brand.

On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 18:18:58 -0700 (PDT)
George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel house.
>It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
>(Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
>some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)

Understood... thought I'd throw it out there for you to ponder...

As a teenager working at a farm I would have been gung-ho to give that a
try. I could braze ANYTHING back then... Nowadays I consider which of
the two solutions sounds less painful and in-line with my
abilities and equipment ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 9:03:16 AM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Jun 2021 18:18:58 -0700 (PDT)
> George Herold <gghe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel house.
> >It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
> >(Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
> >some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)
> Understood... thought I'd throw it out there for you to ponder...
>
> As a teenager working at a farm I would have been gung-ho to give that a
> try. I could braze ANYTHING back then... Nowadays I consider which of
> the two solutions sounds less painful and in-line with my
> abilities and equipment ;-)
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI
OK. TBH I'm not really sure what brazing is. Back when we built low temp probes in grad school,
we used an oxy-acetylene torch and high temp silver solder to join stainless together.
Here and now I've got nothing that gets hot enough for that... unless I can braze with my arc welder.

George H.

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 7:36:21 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "George Herold" wrote in message
> news:25672896-2ac2-4702...@googlegroups.com...
> Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel
> house.
> It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
> (Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
> some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)
>
> George H.
> -------------------------------
>
> Another application for brazing is restoring eroded starter contacts. The
> brass didn't last as long as the original copper but it was simple to do
> over again.
>
> I keep vehicles that I like in good condition until finding parts becomes
> difficult, although I check out new ones every few years. Monday the
> salesman told me my 21-year-old car was in the best shape he'd ever seen,
> mainly thanks to my rust repairs and new headlights. Then he told me about
> the lower reliability of the more complex newer models, as he had previously
> sold that brand.

Sounds good. Around here (Buffalo NY) the salt used in the winter is the death of car bodies.
One thing great about old tractors is you still can get parts for them.
George H.

On Wed, 30 Jun 2021 06:11:37 -0700 (PDT)
George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>OK. TBH I'm not really sure what brazing is. Back when we built low temp probes in grad school,
>we used an oxy-acetylene torch and high temp silver solder to join stainless together.
>Here and now I've got nothing that gets hot enough for that... unless I can braze with my arc welder.

For some strange reason I've become a lot dumber since my teen years...
And indeed, I was using oxy-acy equipment.

You can braze with an arc welder by using a carbon arc torch
adapter. But I wouldn't recommend it unless you were really desperate
for a solution ;) Nice video demonstrating its use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYnsCXVsJsw

Another trick for repairing teeth on cast iron is to weld a thin
layer over the spot using a nickel cast iron rod. Then switch to
standard rod for the build up. The nickel will stick to the cast and
standard rod will stick to the nickel. Got that from an old Farm
Welding book, back when buying nickel rod made peoples eyes pop out :)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

"George Herold" wrote in message
news:0c97278f-9886-4760-9915-2fc1214f5962n@googlegroups.com...

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 7:36:21 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
....

Sounds good. Around here (Buffalo NY) the salt used in the winter is the
death of car bodies.
One thing great about old tractors is you still can get parts for them.
George H.

-------------------

I'm downwind of you in NH with the same salt problem, from less snow and
maybe more ice.

How bad is that front that you're under and we're due for?

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sbhsq8$esr$2@dont-email.me...

Another trick for repairing teeth on cast iron is to weld a thin
layer over the spot using a nickel cast iron rod. Then switch to
standard rod for the build up. The nickel will stick to the cast and
standard rod will stick to the nickel. Got that from an old Farm
Welding book, back when buying nickel rod made peoples eyes pop out :)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

------------------------
The price of nickel rod still does. Don't waste it.

Thanks, that's a good trick that I hope not to need. There's a lot in those
old books that isn't taught anymore but still can be useful. I just found
and bought a barely used "cant saw" file in a second-hand store. I know what
it is and does from jr high wood shop, and have pruning saws to use it on.

George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you mentioned
ordering one of the less than $100 signal generators using Analog Device's adf4351.
Did you get one? and how did it work?
I'll probably be needing one soon and any reccomendations would be helpful.

Hul

George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 7:36:21 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > "George Herold" wrote in message
> > news:25672896-2ac2-4702...@googlegroups.com...
> > Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel
> > house.
> > It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it.
> > (Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use
> > some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)
> >
> > George H.
> > -------------------------------
> >
> > Another application for brazing is restoring eroded starter contacts. The
> > brass didn't last as long as the original copper but it was simple to do
> > over again.
> >
> > I keep vehicles that I like in good condition until finding parts becomes
> > difficult, although I check out new ones every few years. Monday the
> > salesman told me my 21-year-old car was in the best shape he'd ever seen,
> > mainly thanks to my rust repairs and new headlights. Then he told me about
> > the lower reliability of the more complex newer models, as he had previously
> > sold that brand.

> Sounds good. Around here (Buffalo NY) the salt used in the winter is the death of car bodies.
> One thing great about old tractors is you still can get parts for them.
> George H.

"Hul Tytus" wrote in message news:sc1k09$adi$1@reader1.panix.com...

George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you
mentioned
ordering one of the less than $100 signal generators using Analog Device's
adf4351.
Did you get one? and how did it work?
I'll probably be needing one soon and any reccomendations would be
helpful.

Hul

-----------------

https://www.rtl-sdr.com/testing-a-frequency-synthesizer-with-an-rtl-sdr/

https://sigrok.org/wiki/BG7TBL

https://www.sdrplay.com/

I built prototype digital radios in the 1990's and have a ham radio license
but haven't pursued it much as a hobby.

Thanks Jim. I'll take a look. Regarding the first, do you know what a
rtl-sdr is? Not a resistor transtor logic device?

Hul

Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
> "Hul Tytus" wrote in message news:sc1k09$adi$1@reader1.panix.com...

> George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you
> mentioned
> ordering one of the less than $100 signal generators using Analog Device's
> adf4351.
> Did you get one? and how did it work?
> I'll probably be needing one soon and any reccomendations would be
> helpful.

> Hul

> -----------------

> https://www.rtl-sdr.com/testing-a-frequency-synthesizer-with-an-rtl-sdr/

> https://sigrok.org/wiki/BG7TBL

> https://www.sdrplay.com/

> I built prototype digital radios in the 1990's and have a ham radio license
> but haven't pursued it much as a hobby.

On Thu, 8 Jul 2021 13:01:26 -0000 (UTC)
Hul Tytus <ht@panix.com> wrote:

<snip>
>Thanks Jim. I'll take a look. Regarding the first, do you know what a
>rtl-sdr is? Not a resistor transtor logic device?

Not Jim but...

This web site is pretty good with supplying info:

https://www.rtl-sdr.com

It is basically a software programmable radio. Can be easily customized
to do all sorts of nifty stuff by programming. Like spectrum analyzer,
FM narrow or wide-band radio...

===
What is RTL-SDR?
RTL-SDR is a very cheap ~$25 USB dongle that can be used as a computer
based radio scanner for receiving live radio signals in your area (no
internet required). Depending on the particular model it could receive
frequencies from 500 kHz up to 1.75 GHz. Most software for the RTL-SDR
is also community developed, and provided free of charge.

The origins of RTL-SDR stem from mass produced DVB-T TV tuner dongles
that were based on the RTL2832U chipset. With the combined efforts of
Antti Palosaari, Eric Fry and Osmocom (in particular Steve Markgraf) it
was found that the raw I/Q data on the RTL2832U chipset could be
accessed directly, which allowed the DVB-T TV tuner to be converted
into a wideband software defined radio via a custom software driver
developed by Steve Markgraf. If you've ever enjoyed the RTL-SDR project
please consider donating to Osmocom via Open Collective as they are the
ones who developed the drivers and brought RTL-SDR to life.

Over the years since its discovery RTL-SDR has become extremely popular
and has democratized access to the radio spectrum. Now anyone including
hobbyists on a budget can access the radio spectrum. It's worth noting
that this sort of SDR capability would have cost hundreds or even
thousands of dollars just a few years ago. The RTL-SDR is also
sometimes referred to as RTL2832U, DVB-T SDR, DVB-T dongle, RTL dongle,
or the "cheap software defined radio".

There are now many other software defined radios better than the
RTL-SDR, but they all come at a higher price. Currently we think that
the Airspy ($169) and SDRPlay ($99) SDR's are the best low cost RX only
SDR's. There is also the HackRF ($300USD) which can both transmit and
receive...
===

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

"Hul Tytus" wrote in message news:sc6sv6$71a$1@reader1.panix.com...

Thanks Jim. I'll take a look. Regarding the first, do you know what a
rtl-sdr is? Not a resistor transtor logic device?

Hul

---------------

It's a low cost DVB-T digital TV tuner that also functions as a wideband
8-bit digital radio receiver. I bought this 14-bit receiver instead:
https://www.sdrplay.com/rsp1a/

https://www.sdrplay.com/spectrum-analyser/

-jsw

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sc6tuk$md9$1@dont-email.me...

.... It's worth noting
that this sort of SDR capability would have cost hundreds or even
thousands of dollars just a few years ago.
-----------------------------
I built developmental prototypes of I+Q digital radios at Mitre in the early
1990's that cost the government tens of thousands. It's an old idea that
became practical with the availability of the hybrid and then integrated
high speed A/D converters that enabled digital storage oscilloscopes, and
the complementary direct digital synthesizer (waveform generator) chips to
modulate the transmitter. I happened to have considerable experience with
A/D converters and computer circuits which the radio techs didn't so I got
the job.

I should have paid more attention to the math of the square root of -1 in
college but I was sure I'd never need it. When I began working with I and Q
I had to take night school math classes to keep up, and an amateur radio
license course to learn more about radio circuits.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/radio-frequency-analysis-design/radio-frequency-demodulation/understanding-i-q-signals-and-quadrature-modulation/
"It turns out that any form of modulation can be performed simply by varying
the amplitude—only the amplitude—of I and Q signals, and then adding them
together."

We used 8 phase modulation which packs 3 bits into each transmitted symbol.
The CPU was usually a TMS320xx digital signal processor. That's why I don't
have much experience with the ARM family.
https://www.rfwireless-world.com/Terminology/8-PSK.html

On Thu, 8 Jul 2021 13:06:33 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

>"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sc6tuk$md9$1@dont-email.me...
>
>... It's worth noting
>that this sort of SDR capability would have cost hundreds or even
>thousands of dollars just a few years ago.

Originally had a FCC Class 1 license with Radar endorsement. FCC
eliminated it along with the Class 2 soon after I got it. Replaced with
the General Class...

Been out of it for ~20 years now. My last service monitor, that had a
spectrum analyzer built in sold for ~$35,000 new. We picked it up as
factory demo unit for less. It only covered ~100khz to 1ghz. Weighed
maybe 30 lbs. Was certified though for accuracy...

I have one of the RTL-SDR.com USB dongles. It just blew me away with
what could be done for ~$30 a few years ago. I'm looking at it hanging
next to a waiting USB cable right now. If I plug it in my afternoon will
become toast, fooling around with it. I purposely avoid it like it's
crack coke...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sc7dds$7au$1@dont-email.me...
....
I have one of the RTL-SDR.com USB dongles. It just blew me away with
what could be done for ~$30 a few years ago. I'm looking at it hanging
next to a waiting USB cable right now. If I plug it in my afternoon will
become toast, fooling around with it. I purposely avoid it like it's
crack coke...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

-------------------------------

I expected to spend a rainy weekend exploring the RF spectrum with the RSP1A
but instead after an hour I tuned it to an FM station and went back to
reading history on the Internet.

Here's a mysterious piece of shortwave radio history:
https://tighar.org/Projects/Earhart/Archives/Documents/Notebook/notebook.html

Several stations in the Pacific picked up faint carrier that DF'd roughly
toward Howland Island, but no intelligible voice. She didn't know Morse.