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tech / rec.crafts.metalworking / wrenching

SubjectAuthor
* wrenchingClare Snyder
+- Re: wrenchingJim Wilkins
`- Re: wrenchingSnag

1
wrenching

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From: cla...@snyder.on.ca (Clare Snyder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: wrenching
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2021 23:41:47 -0400
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 by: Clare Snyder - Sat, 14 Aug 2021 03:41 UTC

Finally got my Ranger (1996) out of "the hospital" after an 11 day
stay. It was pretending to be either British or a Harley - marking
it's territory for the last several years - due to a couple hardened
"O" rings on the oil filter adapter. I broke the exhaust studs
removing the "Y" pipe to get access to the adapter bolt so ended up
removing the engine (4 liter 5 speed). One engine/transmission bolt
didn't want to come out so I had to drop the trans WAY down - and
try to pull both together - which was impossible due to the
crossmember. - Finally got the impact directly on the bolt and got it
out - then the dowel pins didn't want to let go so I made a jack screw
to force the bell housing and engine apsrt far enough to get a pry bar
in and get it apart.
I burned the old studs out of the manifolds, neatly leaving the
threads in the castings intact (after breaking off a cobalt bit in
one) I found the lower intake manifold was seeping coolant so I redid
that and replaced the slightly sloppy 25 year old water pump -
managing to only break ONE 6mm bolt. When removing the transmission
the clip that holds the hydraulic line into the release slave cyl
broke - and I found Ford and Mazda have not stocked it for aver 4
years - leading to the obligatory METAL WORK content!!!!
U used a piece of old bedframe angle iron - cut a 0.64" wide slot in
one side of the anglem cut it out to the right width to JUST fit into
the opening in the bell housing, drilled 2 holes in the end to
safety-wire it in position and got the clutch functioning.
I also found the heat shield on the "Y" pipe had been rattling and
actually wore 2 holes through the pipe so I welded a patch into the
pipe and clamped the heat sheild on with stainless steel worm clamps.
I made brass nuts to fasten the "Y" pipe to the manifold studs and
installed a split flange to keep the exhaust attached to the CAT. (the
orriginal flange was pretty much GONE. Recharged the AC and got it
done on time to drive it home for supper.

Re: wrenching

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From: muratla...@gmail.com (Jim Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: wrenching
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2021 12:50:29 -0400
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 by: Jim Wilkins - Sat, 14 Aug 2021 16:50 UTC

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:j2dehg15hu26vp3b0dq7bcde1ucatmph2b@4ax.com...
.....
I burned the old studs out of the manifolds, neatly leaving the
threads in the castings intact (after breaking off a cobalt bit in
one) ...

------------------------
After breaking off a screw in the aluminum intake manifold of my 91 Ranger I
reconstructed the hole pattern on scrap 1/4" steel plate, drilled all but
the offending one to minimum clearance for aligning screws and threaded the
bad location for 1/2" steel rod drilled as a drill bushing. Mild steel works
well as a drill guide for the first hole but it wears quickly.

Re: wrenching

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From: Snag_...@msn.com (Snag)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: wrenching
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2021 07:18:55 -0500
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 by: Snag - Sun, 15 Aug 2021 12:18 UTC

On 8/13/2021 10:41 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> Finally got my Ranger (1996) out of "the hospital" after an 11 day
> stay. It was pretending to be either British or a Harley - marking
> it's territory for the last several years - due to a couple hardened
> "O" rings on the oil filter adapter. I broke the exhaust studs
> removing the "Y" pipe to get access to the adapter bolt so ended up
> removing the engine (4 liter 5 speed). One engine/transmission bolt
> didn't want to come out so I had to drop the trans WAY down - and
> try to pull both together - which was impossible due to the
> crossmember. - Finally got the impact directly on the bolt and got it
> out - then the dowel pins didn't want to let go so I made a jack screw
> to force the bell housing and engine apsrt far enough to get a pry bar
> in and get it apart.
> I burned the old studs out of the manifolds, neatly leaving the
> threads in the castings intact (after breaking off a cobalt bit in
> one) I found the lower intake manifold was seeping coolant so I redid
> that and replaced the slightly sloppy 25 year old water pump -
> managing to only break ONE 6mm bolt. When removing the transmission
> the clip that holds the hydraulic line into the release slave cyl
> broke - and I found Ford and Mazda have not stocked it for aver 4
> years - leading to the obligatory METAL WORK content!!!!
> U used a piece of old bedframe angle iron - cut a 0.64" wide slot in
> one side of the anglem cut it out to the right width to JUST fit into
> the opening in the bell housing, drilled 2 holes in the end to
> safety-wire it in position and got the clutch functioning.
> I also found the heat shield on the "Y" pipe had been rattling and
> actually wore 2 holes through the pipe so I welded a patch into the
> pipe and clamped the heat sheild on with stainless steel worm clamps.
> I made brass nuts to fasten the "Y" pipe to the manifold studs and
> installed a split flange to keep the exhaust attached to the CAT. (the
> orriginal flange was pretty much GONE. Recharged the AC and got it
> done on time to drive it home for supper.
>

Neither of our Harleys drip oil ... but mine (1990 Ultra Classic)
will be getting a new main drive gear and matching countershaft gear as
soon as the parts arrive . It's started whining a little in all but 5th
gear and 5th is the only one that doesn't drive thru that pair of gears
.. Should have done it 3 years ago when I replaced the 4th gear pair but
didn't have the cash for the parts at that time .
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...

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