On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
> replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
> Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
> These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles" and
> 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the saddles
> of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and nuts.
>
> --
> for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm

You replied to a 12 year old post.

For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google groups works better.

"Michael Terrell" wrote in message
news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
> replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
> Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
> These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles"
> and
> 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
> saddles
> of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and
> nuts.
>
> --
> for full context, visit
> https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm

You replied to a 12 year old post.

For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google
groups works better.
----------------------

Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round tubes.
I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler clamp and
3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach boat winches to
the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track into position overhead.
For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded under them with strips of
1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought
all have had inch-sized threads.

On 11/20/2021 4:55 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Michael Terrell"  wrote in message
> news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
>
> On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
>> replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
>> Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
>> These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
>> "saddles" and
>> 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
>> saddles
>> of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws
>> and nuts.
>>
>> --
>> for full context, visit
>> https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
>>
>
> You replied to a 12 year old post.
>
> For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even
> Google groups works better.
> ----------------------
>
> Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
> tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler
> clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach
> boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track
> into position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded
> under them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the
> legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized threads.
>

And muffler clamps are cheap. I tend towards making a purpose built
round clamp/mount with one or two bolts (depending on application) out
of aluminum for jobs like this, but I recognize that not everybody can
do that or has piles of failed mold projects laying on the scrap cart
that they can salvage for the purpose. A muffler clamp the right size
can be implemented in mere minutes. Well... not counting the time to go
to the store and buy one, which could take longer than making something
in my shop.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snb70b$9fi$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 11/20/2021 4:55 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Michael Terrell" wrote in message
> news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
>
> On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
>> replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
>> Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
>> These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
>> "saddles" and
>> 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
>> saddles
>> of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and
>> nuts.
>>
>> --
>> for full context, visit
>> https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
>
> You replied to a 12 year old post.
>
> For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google
> groups works better.
> ----------------------
>
> Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
> tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler
> clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach boat
> winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track into
> position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded under
> them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the legs. So
> far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized threads.
>

And muffler clamps are cheap. I tend towards making a purpose built
round clamp/mount with one or two bolts (depending on application) out
of aluminum for jobs like this, but I recognize that not everybody can
do that or has piles of failed mold projects laying on the scrap cart
that they can salvage for the purpose. A muffler clamp the right size
can be implemented in mere minutes. Well... not counting the time to go
to the store and buy one, which could take longer than making something
in my shop.

----------------

I watch for common items that can be misused to solve unexpected design
problems quickly, if not permanently. For instance EMT has the ID of Sch 40
pipe sizes while chain link fence posts and tubing has pipe OD. Some sizes
of EMT telescope into fence tubing.

The rubber bulb from a $5 siphon hose is part of the gas tank pressurizer I
made to prime the carbs of small engines that I ran dry before storing.

I do like you and machine clamps for permanent outdoor use from scrap
aluminum. In the 80's I traded something I couldn't use for 60 Lbs of bar
stock ends from a scrap dealer and haven't consumed more than half of them
yet. One such custom clamp supports the top end swivel ring for my rotating
antenna's guy lines.

I don't have CNC (or a DRO) and need to cut the round opening with a boring
head, so for me a trip to the store may be quicker.

On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:snb70b$9fi$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>
> On 11/20/2021 4:55 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Michael Terrell"  wrote in message
>> news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
>>
>> On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
>>> replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
>>> Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts
>>> stores.
>>> These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
>>> "saddles" and
>>> 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and
>>> the saddles
>>> of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws
>>> and nuts.
>>>
>>> --
>>> for full context, visit
>>> https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
>>>
>>
>> You replied to a 12 year old post.
>>
>> For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even
>> Google groups works better.
>> ----------------------
>>
>> Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
>> tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a
>> muffler clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily
>> attach boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry
>> track into position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and
>> padded under them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and
>> weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized
>> threads.
>>
>
>
> And muffler clamps are cheap.  I tend towards making a purpose built
> round clamp/mount with one or two bolts (depending on application) out
> of aluminum for jobs like this, but I recognize that not everybody can
> do that or has piles of failed mold projects laying on the scrap cart
> that they can salvage for the purpose.  A muffler clamp the right size
> can be implemented in mere minutes.  Well... not counting the time to go
> to the store and buy one, which could take longer than making something
> in my shop.
>
> ----------------
>
> I watch for common items that can be misused to solve unexpected design
> problems quickly, if not permanently. For instance EMT has the ID of Sch
> 40 pipe sizes while chain link fence posts and tubing has pipe OD. Some
> sizes of EMT telescope into fence tubing.
>
> The rubber bulb from a $5 siphon hose is part of the gas tank
> pressurizer I made to prime the carbs of small engines that I ran dry
> before storing.
>
> I do like you and machine clamps for permanent outdoor use from scrap
> aluminum. In the 80's I traded something I couldn't use for 60 Lbs of
> bar stock ends from a scrap dealer and haven't consumed more than half
> of them yet.  One such custom clamp supports the top end swivel ring for
> my rotating antenna's guy lines.
>
> I don't have CNC (or a DRO) and need to cut the round opening with a
> boring head, so for me a trip to the store may be quicker.
>

My last two orders of bar stock were over 500 lbs each. Not big as
orders go, but decent size orders for me. Some days I do miss when a
haul like yours felt like a real score. There is a a certain inherent
appeal to scoring some stock you can just use for whatever you need it
for isn't there.

I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
the lathe. It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to
drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.

If I ever have time to do any foundry work I've got lots of little melty
bits and a little alloying bits metal to mix in to make it pour better.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 6:56:17 AM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Michael Terrell" wrote in message
> news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac...@googlegroups.com...
> On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
> > replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
> > Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
> > These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles"
> > and
> > 3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
> > saddles
> > of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and
> > nuts.
> >
> > --
> > for full context, visit
> > https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
>
> You replied to a 12 year old post.
>
> For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google
> groups works better.
> ----------------------
>
> Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round tubes.
> I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler clamp and
> 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach boat winches to
> the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track into position overhead.
> For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded under them with strips of
> 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought
> all have had inch-sized threads.

I didn't say they were bad. I was pointing out that the OP likely wasn't waiting 12 years for an answer. se see replies to old post on other newsgroup from this same web portal, and they are mostly to ten year or older messages.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snbgoi$uc0$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> ...

I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
the lathe. It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to
drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.

-----------------------

I would too, if my lathe's tailstock was in good enough condition to drive a
hole saw to rough out the opening (and save the plug). The trade school kids
used its spindle as an anvil horn. The dealer swapped in another old spindle
but it's not perfect either.

On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:snbgoi$uc0$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>
> On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> ...
>
> I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
> the lathe.  It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to
> drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.
>
> -----------------------
>
> I would too, if my lathe's tailstock was in good enough condition to
> drive a hole saw to rough out the opening (and save the plug). The trade
> school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. The dealer swapped in
> another old spindle but it's not perfect either.
>

Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that tailstock.

While not ideal you could trepan out the slug if you are that gungho to
save it.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 22/11/2021 19:34, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:snbgoi$uc0$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>
>> On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> ...
>>
>> I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
>> the lathe.  It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to
>> drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.
>>
>> -----------------------
>>
>> I would too, if my lathe's tailstock was in good enough condition to
>> drive a hole saw to rough out the opening (and save the plug). The
>> trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. The dealer
>> swapped in another old spindle but it's not perfect either.
>>
>
>
>
> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
> tailstock.
>
> While not ideal you could trepan out the slug if you are that gungho
> to save it.
>
This gives you one person's approach used by someone with a Harrison
M300
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/m300-tailstock-refurb-boring-and-sleeve.39064/
..

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

>
> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...

Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that tailstock.

------------------

That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do list. What
would you sleeve it with?

"David Billington" wrote in message news:sngu45$qbl$1@dont-email.me...

This gives you one person's approach used by someone with a Harrison
M300
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/m300-tailstock-refurb-boring-and-sleeve.39064/
-----------------------

Thanks, that's pretty much what I had in mind. The first step might be
fitting a narrow ring of drill rod steel into the mouth of the opening, and
if it's not good enough reboring the entire hole.

Most of my work is short, held in collets or the 6-jaw, and the tailstock
only drills a pilot hole that I then bore straight, concentric and to a
running or press fit with another part.

On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>
> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>>
>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>
>
> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that tailstock.
>
> ------------------
>
> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do list.
> What would you sleeve it with?
>

I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just cast
iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in a cast
iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing material.
I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in oilite
bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would be. When
I wear one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving wear would
be significant with a material like that in that application. The only
issue might be side load forces. Since its full supported if done
right... Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making this up as I go along. LOL.

I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer that
size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and recently I've
found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I might like.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>
>> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>>
>>
>> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
>> tailstock.
>>
>> ------------------
>>
>> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
>> list. What would you sleeve it with?
>>
>
>
> I guess that would depend really.  I think most tailstocks are just
> cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
> a cast iron sleeve in cast iron.  Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
> material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
> oilite bronze bushings before.  I don't know what the longevity would
> be.  When I wear one out I'll let you know.  I don't think the moving
> wear would be significant with a material like that in that
> application.  The only issue might be side load forces.  Since its
> full supported if done right...  Heck I don't know Jim.  I'm making
> this up as I go along.  LOL.
>
> I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
> on center.  Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
> that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
> recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
> might like.
>
>
Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common,
that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever
tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of
multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the
winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
with a mate and a moving skate had shifted  and wasn't noticed so when
pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the
salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.

"David Billington" wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...

On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>
>> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>>
>>
>> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
>> tailstock.
>>
>> ------------------
>>
>> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do list.
>> What would you sleeve it with?
>>
>
>
> I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just cast
> iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in a cast
> iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing material.
> I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in oilite bronze
> bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would be. When I wear
> one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving wear would be
> significant with a material like that in that application. The only issue
> might be side load forces. Since its full supported if done right...
> Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making this up as I go along. LOL.
>
> I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and on
> center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer that size
> might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and recently I've found
> even name brand reamers vary a little more than I might like.
>
>
Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common,
that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever
tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of
multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the
winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
with a mate and a moving skate had shifted and wasn't noticed so when
pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the
salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.

------------------------
People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts have
become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought it, and every
useful spare part I saw.
https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721

I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were
individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock might
be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems slightly low,
though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The clamping plate under
the tailstock was obviously a student project.

Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference
between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of "How to
Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is called a recent
improvement.

On 11/23/2021 6:17 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "David Billington"  wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>>
>>> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>>>
>>>
>>> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
>>> tailstock.
>>>
>>> ------------------
>>>
>>> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
>>> list. What would you sleeve it with?
>>>
>>
>>
>> I guess that would depend really.  I think most tailstocks are just
>> cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
>> a cast iron sleeve in cast iron.  Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
>> material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
>> oilite bronze bushings before.  I don't know what the longevity would
>> be.  When I wear one out I'll let you know.  I don't think the moving
>> wear would be significant with a material like that in that
>> application.  The only issue might be side load forces.  Since its
>> full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim.  I'm making
>> this up as I go along.  LOL.
>>
>> I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
>> on center.  Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
>> that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
>> recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
>> might like.
>>
>>
> Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common,
> that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever
> tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of
> multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the
> winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
> I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
> I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
> with a mate and a moving skate had shifted  and wasn't noticed so when
> pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the
> salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
>
> ------------------------
> People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
> have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought it,
> and every useful spare part I saw.
> https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
>
>
> I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were
> individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
> might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
> slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
> clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
>
> Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference
> between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of "How
> to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is called a
> recent improvement.
>

It could also be low due to heavy use. I seem to recall one
conversation where somebody said if you have a choice in setup between
ever so slightly high and overshooting to be a tad bit low its better to
leave it alone and let it wear in over time. I think a mechanism that
can be adjusted over time makes more sense, but that's what they said.
I'm not sure how being a little bit bad in one direction would be better
than being a little bit bad in another direction, but that was the gist
of it. It reminded me of shooting pool with people who ask if its
better to miss by a little bit or miss by a lot. "Um, you missed.
That's all." LOL. " Its still my shot."

Like every other surface on your lathe it will wear over time. As to
the clamping plate on the bottom. It may be original. I have three
lathes with similar tail stocks and plates for clamping in place. There
is nothing special about any of them. They are all just the right size
piece of pretty generic plate with a hole tapped through it.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 23/11/2021 13:17, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "David Billington"  wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>>
>>> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>>>
>>>
>>> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
>>> tailstock.
>>>
>>> ------------------
>>>
>>> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
>>> list. What would you sleeve it with?
>>>
>>
>>
>> I guess that would depend really.  I think most tailstocks are just
>> cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
>> a cast iron sleeve in cast iron.  Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
>> material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
>> oilite bronze bushings before.  I don't know what the longevity would
>> be.  When I wear one out I'll let you know.  I don't think the moving
>> wear would be significant with a material like that in that
>> application.  The only issue might be side load forces.  Since its
>> full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim.  I'm making
>> this up as I go along.  LOL.
>>
>> I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right
>> and on center.  Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a
>> reamer that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
>> recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
>> might like.
>>
>>
> Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common,
> that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever
> tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of
> multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the
> winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
> I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
> I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
> with a mate and a moving skate had shifted  and wasn't noticed so when
> pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the
> salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
>
> ------------------------
> People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
> have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought
> it, and every useful spare part I saw.
> https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
>
>
> I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were
> individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
> might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
> slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
> clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
>
> Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference
> between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of
> "How to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is
> called a recent improvement.
>
A mate used to have one of those here in the UK, it was ex WW2 lend
lease and pretty beaten up but it was his and it worked. It had to go
when he divorced and downsized but he does have access to his father's
Myford 7 which he acquired from the widow of a family friend for little
money as she just wanted the garage cleared. A mate has the Hayes
Diemaster mill, and the dad also had a decent sized UK made pillar drill.

I was fortunate the M300 tailstock was in good order and aligns very
well and I've not had to touch it. It has little wear in the barrel as
it had a 8mm wide collar of congealed oil at the back of the bore which
stopped it moving fully back, once cleaned out the quill moves fully
back and I can feel a slight increase in the force required. The
congealed oil ring was why it wouldn't eject Morse taper items without a
tang. I like the lever tailstock as it gives more feel when drilling but
can't generate as good a clamping load so some jobs I have to revert to
the standard tailstock.

On 11/23/2021 6:17 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "David Billington"  wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>>>
>>> On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> ...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
>>>
>>>
>>> Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
>>> tailstock.
>>>
>>> ------------------
>>>
>>> That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
>>> list. What would you sleeve it with?
>>>
>>
>>
>> I guess that would depend really.  I think most tailstocks are just
>> cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
>> a cast iron sleeve in cast iron.  Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
>> material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
>> oilite bronze bushings before.  I don't know what the longevity would
>> be.  When I wear one out I'll let you know.  I don't think the moving
>> wear would be significant with a material like that in that
>> application.  The only issue might be side load forces.  Since its
>> full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim.  I'm making
>> this up as I go along.  LOL.
>>
>> I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
>> on center.  Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
>> that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
>> recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
>> might like.
>>
>>
> Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common,
> that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever
> tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of
> multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the
> winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
> I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
> I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
> with a mate and a moving skate had shifted  and wasn't noticed so when
> pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the
> salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
>
> ------------------------
> People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
> have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought it,
> and every useful spare part I saw.
> https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
>
>
> I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were
> individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
> might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
> slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
> clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
>
> Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference
> between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of "How
> to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is called a
> recent improvement.
>

Totally silly idea. Find a straight shank Morse taper adapter with an
OD slightly larger than your current opening. Bore to fit. Longer
"might" be better, but even a couple inches of stroke is good enough if
it comes with a nice no slop sliding fit.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snjo4s$1a0r$1@gioia.aioe.org...

Totally silly idea. Find a straight shank Morse taper adapter with an
OD slightly larger than your current opening. Bore to fit. Longer
"might" be better, but even a couple inches of stroke is good enough if
it comes with a nice no slop sliding fit.

----------------------

It's not silly, I have such an MT2 to straight adapter and matching bronze
sleeve for an incomplete endmill sharpening fixture project. Unfortunately
the adapter's OD is 1.000" while the tailstock spindle's is 1.062".
Hardening made the sleeve expand slightly at the ejection slots, apparently
after it was ground. A HiRoc bit could drill through the end for a collet
closing screw but doubt I could thread it or mill the key slot.

I rely on the depth graduations on the spindle because I sometimes lose
track of turns while peck drilling small deep holes. My attempts to engrave
and number graduations on tools haven't been impressive.

I was planning to make a tool holding fixture that resembled the Quorn's,
but initially simpler, since the swiveling head of my Delta Rockwell
Toolmaker surface + cutter grinder appears to be the inspiration for its
design. As usual, shortly after buying the parts I found a second-hand
commercial fixture for sharpening the spiral flutes of endmills.

The fixture I did complete is for grinding S&D and other large drill bits in
a 5C end mill sharpening fixture. It consists of a 5C closer nut bored out
1.000" behind the threads, a light-press-fit reducer to 0.500", and a ring
spanner to tighten the nut. The 0.500 hole centers the drill shank. The back
relief setting of the fixture tilts the bit 30 degrees, for a 120 degree
point angle and ~5 degree back rake.

Again, after finishing it I found a 3/4" collet that fits my originally 1/2"
Drill Doctor. It's like I have to prove I'm worthy before finding what I
seek.
jsw

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snji9v$ph7$1@gioia.aioe.org...

>...As to the clamping plate on the bottom. It may be original. I have
>three lathes with similar tail stocks and plates for clamping in place.
There is nothing special about any of them.
They are all just the right size piece of pretty
>generic plate with a hole tapped through it.

----------------------

If it's original then Mickey Mouse worked for South Bend.

The 'stud' is a loose-fitting Grade 5 galvanized hardware store hex head cap
screw, and the bolt head recess is a milled rectangular pocket the width of
two sides with little half-round clearance cuts in the ends for the points.
I machined a flange nut with a 13/16" hex to fit the proper style of
short-handled forged box wrench.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snji9v$ph7$1@gioia.aioe.org...

It could also be low due to heavy use. I seem to recall one
conversation where somebody said if you have a choice in setup between
ever so slightly high and overshooting to be a tad bit low its better to
leave it alone and let it wear in over time. I think a mechanism that
can be adjusted over time makes more sense, but that's what they said.
I'm not sure how being a little bit bad in one direction would be better
than being a little bit bad in another direction, but that was the gist
of it. It reminded me of shooting pool with people who ask if its
better to miss by a little bit or miss by a lot. "Um, you missed.
That's all." LOL. " Its still my shot."

------------------------

Since it came from a trade school I think it saw relatively little use, and
less care. The obvious problems were the D-shaped tailstock spindle and
missing compound handle. The dealer told me that the instructor spent his
yearly maintenance allocation on school-color paint to hide defects, and the
rest on whiskey. The hardened ways look perfect and I observed less than
0.0001" spindle ID runout before buying it. The only serious wear was on the
underside of the compound slide which I surface ground back to flat.

I didn't see another Heavy 10 for sale for 15 years, and then at the price
of a new 10" Grizzly. What really kills me is that I had to surplus a
pristine 14" long bed South Bend at Mitre with no chance of bidding on it
afterwards. As Air Force property it was supposed to go to a school or
non-profit, on its tortuous way to Iran. I surplused millions of dollars of
older equipment I would love to have owned, but never saw again. Perhaps
it's best that I've collected only a couple of Hewlett-Packard boat anchors,
a digital storage scope and a spectrum analyzer.
jsw

On 11/23/2021 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

It's like I have to prove I'm worthy before finding
> what I seek.
> jsw

I feel your pain. I've got multiples of tools for that reason. Last
time I needed a powder actuated pin driver I couldn't find mine. I knew
I had two of them One hammer actuated, and one trigger actuated. After
spending three days searching I gave up and bought a new one. I figured
at some point an ex-employee forgot to return mine. I hadn't even
opened the package when I found the one I already had. The new one is
still in the package some years later. LOL. I figure if I ever
misplace them again I can just threaten to open the package and they
will re-appear. Now I know all I need to do to find a tool or figure
out an easy way to fix one is buy its replacement.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snlq7q$gq5$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 11/23/2021 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

It's like I have to prove I'm worthy before finding
> what I seek.
> jsw

I feel your pain. I've got multiples of tools for that reason. Last
time I needed a powder actuated pin driver I couldn't find mine. I knew
I had two of them One hammer actuated, and one trigger actuated. After
spending three days searching I gave up and bought a new one. I figured
at some point an ex-employee forgot to return mine. I hadn't even
opened the package when I found the one I already had. The new one is
still in the package some years later. LOL. I figure if I ever
misplace them again I can just threaten to open the package and they
will re-appear. Now I know all I need to do to find a tool or figure
out an easy way to fix one is buy its replacement.

---------------------

After buying and using the new one I look for a logical place to store it,
and more often than not that's where I find the missing one. Why couldn't I
have remembered to look there before?

On Wed, 24 Nov 2021 12:43:26 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

>"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snlq7q$gq5$1@gioia.aioe.org...
>
>On 11/23/2021 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>It's like I have to prove I'm worthy before finding
>> what I seek.
>> jsw
>
>I feel your pain. I've got multiples of tools for that reason. Last
>time I needed a powder actuated pin driver I couldn't find mine. I knew
>I had two of them One hammer actuated, and one trigger actuated. After
>spending three days searching I gave up and bought a new one. I figured
>at some point an ex-employee forgot to return mine. I hadn't even
>opened the package when I found the one I already had. The new one is
>still in the package some years later. LOL. I figure if I ever
>misplace them again I can just threaten to open the package and they
>will re-appear. Now I know all I need to do to find a tool or figure
>out an easy way to fix one is buy its replacement.
>
>---------------------
>
>After buying and using the new one I look for a logical place to store it,
>and more often than not that's where I find the missing one. Why couldn't I
>have remembered to look there before?
I have a rack of assorted tool boxes (yard sale dollar or less finds)
for items like pin driver, oscillating tool, etc. which keeps the tool
together with its pins, bits, or spares; which does help somewhat.
Sons find this helpfull when they come to borrow as well.

"Gerry" wrote in message news:1do0qgh6l7fq2oa5on3636i4agbs0r385o@4ax.com...

I have a rack of assorted tool boxes (yard sale dollar or less finds)
for items like pin driver, oscillating tool, etc. which keeps the tool
together with its pins, bits, or spares; which does help somewhat.
Sons find this helpfull when they come to borrow as well.

------------------------

That's a good idea that can be hard to implement. I've found stackable
plastic cases with latching lids for the manual , tools and spares for
chainsaws and generators that may be used away from the house, but not for
air tools, especially those with whips for easier handling. They are all in
cardboard boxes with the hoses and packages of sanding belts and disks
protruding from the top. As my power tools evolved from NiCds to replacement
NiMH batteries that are slightly larger I had to carve up the fitted case's
interior or remove it completely. For at-home use the lack of restraint
doesn't hurt them.

I've given up trying to separately package angle and die grinders since
their parts often interchange, especially since I machine spindle adapters
to misuse them such as making a compact right angle drill from a grinder, or
jack up my car with a drill.

Some of my small bench-mount tools are on rolling stands with invertable
two-sided tops on trunnions, one tool on each side. In one case a single
motor on a hinged base drives the table saw or belt sander that is on top. A
box or drawer below stores parts for both.

It might have been better to mount two unrelated tools on each stand so I
could have all the sheetmetal or woodworking tools on top simultaneously
instead of frequently swapping between two on one stand.

On 11/26/2021 5:26 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Gerry"  wrote in message
> news:1do0qgh6l7fq2oa5on3636i4agbs0r385o@4ax.com...
>
> I have a rack of assorted tool boxes (yard sale dollar or less finds)
> for items like pin driver, oscillating tool, etc. which keeps the tool
> together with its pins, bits, or spares; which does help somewhat.
> Sons find this helpfull when they come to borrow as well.
>
> ------------------------
>
> That's a good idea that can be hard to implement. I've found stackable
> plastic cases with latching lids for the manual , tools and spares for
> chainsaws and generators that may be used away from the house, but not
> for air tools, especially those with whips for easier handling. They are
> all in cardboard boxes with the hoses and packages of sanding belts and
> disks protruding from the top. As my power tools evolved from NiCds to
> replacement NiMH batteries that are slightly larger I had to carve up
> the fitted case's interior or remove it completely. For at-home use the
> lack of restraint doesn't hurt them.
>
> I've given up trying to separately package angle and die grinders since
> their parts often interchange, especially since I machine spindle
> adapters to misuse them such as making a compact right angle drill from
> a grinder, or jack up my car with a drill.
>
> Some of my small bench-mount tools are on rolling stands with invertable
> two-sided tops on trunnions, one tool on each side. In one case a single
> motor on a hinged base drives the table saw or belt sander that is on
> top. A box or drawer below stores parts for both.
>
> It might have been better to mount two unrelated tools on each stand so
> I could have all the sheetmetal or woodworking tools on top
> simultaneously instead of frequently swapping between two on one stand.
>

Yep. No matter how much stock and parts storage you have its either
empty or over flowing. There never seems to be a "enough." I've
thought about getting another shipping container just for bar stock.

My current dream project is a 56(ish) foot long monolithic steel top
bench along the back wall of my shop with bench top to floor drawers
with 6 foot long wings about every 8 feet with 6 foot deep drawers for
long stock and long tools. I have the steel for the top, and some of
the steel tube.

"Hey dad, I need a shovel."

"Third wing bottom drawer under the grinders."

I actually hope to be able to get rid of my three roll-a-way tool boxes.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com