I have had the problem if the handlebar turning in the stem upon hitting a hard pothole. Especially on carbon bars. So I changed over to integrated bars.

If you buy these from an American company they cost about $400 but if you buy them from a Chinese company they are closer to $50. They are the same bars.

One of the weaknesses of these things is the wide aero top of the bar and it is very slippery. So, while you might see Pro racers using no bar take on the inner parts of the bar you should still wrap them with handlebar take all the way to the near center so that you have traction with your gloves,

another thing: while https://www.ebay.com/itm/284525177737?hash=item423f05ab89:g:SPMAAOSwAfZhjUlo seems to be really more pro-like, https://www.ebay..com/itm/373748364394?hash=item570523746a:g:YPQAAOSwBX5hXmRh is just as effective and usually lighter because the smaller bars are reenforced for fear of breaking in a fall.

The new bikes have totally hidden cabling which is the ultimate pain in the ass, older bikes still have mostly is not entirely external cabling. I suggest that you NOT use any internal cabling even if it is available on the integrated bar/stem. The entrance for the internal cables in invariably in the incorrect position and the levers too low for a normal rider.

Since you should cover the entire bar with bar tape buy one of the bars that has a slight depression underneath and run your cables externally and under the tape.

Today making bike aerodynamic seems to have become the international pastime. It has no real effect on speed, especially for a sports rider but it has a huge effect on expense and difficulty of servicing the bike. So screw them and use only those things that are actually useful. As I said, Aero wheels such as Chinese Superteam and Chinese integrated bars to keep you from having your bar rotate and an inappropriate time are worthwhile. Pretending that an aero seatpost is going to help someone riding below 20 mph average speed is just being silly. as is internal cabling or press-in BB bearings. Even Trek has learned their lesson with that and have changed over to T47.

Anyone want to bet that disk brakes aren't going to disappear from road bikes?

On 3/13/2022 10:43 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
> I have had the problem if the handlebar turning in the stem upon hitting a hard pothole. Especially on carbon bars. So I changed over to integrated bars.
>
> If you buy these from an American company they cost about $400 but if you buy them from a Chinese company they are closer to $50. They are the same bars.
>
> One of the weaknesses of these things is the wide aero top of the bar and it is very slippery. So, while you might see Pro racers using no bar take on the inner parts of the bar you should still wrap them with handlebar take all the way to the near center so that you have traction with your gloves,
>
> another thing: while https://www.ebay.com/itm/284525177737?hash=item423f05ab89:g:SPMAAOSwAfZhjUlo seems to be really more pro-like, https://www.ebay.com/itm/373748364394?hash=item570523746a:g:YPQAAOSwBX5hXmRh is just as effective and usually lighter because the smaller bars are reenforced for fear of breaking in a fall.
>
> The new bikes have totally hidden cabling which is the ultimate pain in the ass, older bikes still have mostly is not entirely external cabling. I suggest that you NOT use any internal cabling even if it is available on the integrated bar/stem. The entrance for the internal cables in invariably in the incorrect position and the levers too low for a normal rider.
>
> Since you should cover the entire bar with bar tape buy one of the bars that has a slight depression underneath and run your cables externally and under the tape.
>
> Today making bike aerodynamic seems to have become the international pastime. It has no real effect on speed, especially for a sports rider but it has a huge effect on expense and difficulty of servicing the bike. So screw them and use only those things that are actually useful. As I said, Aero wheels such as Chinese Superteam and Chinese integrated bars to keep you from having your bar rotate and an inappropriate time are worthwhile. Pretending that an aero seatpost is going to help someone riding below 20 mph average speed is just being silly. as is internal cabling or press-in BB bearings. Even Trek has learned their lesson with that and have changed over to T47.
>
> Anyone want to bet that disk brakes aren't going to disappear from road bikes?
>

Use this for carbon component assembly:
https://protire.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/650x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/t/4/t4765_carbon_montagepasta_tube.jpg

And observe manufacturer's torque values.
Shiny carbon bars are prone to slip otherwise (as you
found). It's easy to deform the bar by overtorque when
assembling dry.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sunday, March 13, 2022 at 10:35:30 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
> On 3/13/2022 10:43 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > I have had the problem if the handlebar turning in the stem upon hitting a hard pothole. Especially on carbon bars. So I changed over to integrated bars.
> >
> > If you buy these from an American company they cost about $400 but if you buy them from a Chinese company they are closer to $50. They are the same bars.
> >
> > One of the weaknesses of these things is the wide aero top of the bar and it is very slippery. So, while you might see Pro racers using no bar take on the inner parts of the bar you should still wrap them with handlebar take all the way to the near center so that you have traction with your gloves,
> >
> > another thing: while https://www.ebay.com/itm/284525177737?hash=item423f05ab89:g:SPMAAOSwAfZhjUlo seems to be really more pro-like, https://www.ebay.com/itm/373748364394?hash=item570523746a:g:YPQAAOSwBX5hXmRh is just as effective and usually lighter because the smaller bars are reenforced for fear of breaking in a fall.
> >
> > The new bikes have totally hidden cabling which is the ultimate pain in the ass, older bikes still have mostly is not entirely external cabling. I suggest that you NOT use any internal cabling even if it is available on the integrated bar/stem. The entrance for the internal cables in invariably in the incorrect position and the levers too low for a normal rider.
> >
> > Since you should cover the entire bar with bar tape buy one of the bars that has a slight depression underneath and run your cables externally and under the tape.
> >
> > Today making bike aerodynamic seems to have become the international pastime. It has no real effect on speed, especially for a sports rider but it has a huge effect on expense and difficulty of servicing the bike. So screw them and use only those things that are actually useful. As I said, Aero wheels such as Chinese Superteam and Chinese integrated bars to keep you from having your bar rotate and an inappropriate time are worthwhile. Pretending that an aero seatpost is going to help someone riding below 20 mph average speed is just being silly. as is internal cabling or press-in BB bearings. Even Trek has learned their lesson with that and have changed over to T47.
> >
> > Anyone want to bet that disk brakes aren't going to disappear from road bikes?
> >
>
> Use this for carbon component assembly:
> https://protire.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/650x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/t/4/t4765_carbon_montagepasta_tube.jpg
>
> And observe manufacturer's torque values.
> Shiny carbon bars are prone to slip otherwise (as you
> found). It's easy to deform the bar by overtorque when
> assembling dry.

I did use that carbon paste. After the next slippage which nearly crashed me (riding with a group a guy swung very wide on a turn and forced me into a very deep pothole - something anyone would normally avoid) I thought about it and came to the conclusion that you have to smear that stuff on and allow it to completely dry before assembly.