You often see tires that display the thread count of the casing. Some have as high as 320 threads per inch.

Typically the higher the thread count the more easily the casing flexes and the less energy it absorbs in rolling resistance. The problem is that they are all made up with cloth that has about 100 TPI and they have probably 2 or 3 overlapping layers of cloth giving you what they call a 300 TPI casing that isn't more flexible but is rather stiffer because it has overlapping layers. Then add a breaker layer over this which makes the tire very stiff but able to withstand a lot of flat causing objects and then they could call if a 400 or higher threads per inch which does not have a low rolling resistance nor fine handling tire.

Good racing tires often have cotton or in the case of pro-level TT bikes silk threads with hardly any rubber covering. This provides them with extremely low rolling resistance and almost no flat resistance.

So, after all, the magic number of Threads Per Inch doesn't have a whole lot of meaning and you have to test tires to discover what is best under you for your type of riding.

The rolling resistance of a Vittoria Corsa G +2 supposedly has the lowest rolling resistance for its tire size but I find that Michelin Pro4's seem to be faster under me. And while I rarely get flats on them it has happened.

If flat resistance is topmost on your list the Continental 4 Seasons is best but the Gatorskin is nearly as good for a lot less money. Though Gatorskins have poor sidewall puncture strength.

Tubeless tires now are changing the landscape. They have lower or the same rolling resistance as latex tubes but are quite difficult to flat though you can do it. There are several different kinds of sealant that you add AFTER you've inflated the tire the first time and let all the air out to inject the sealant. Some people put sealant in before fully mounting the tire but I find that messy and difficult.

It takes a while to learn how to mouth the things by always keeping the bead completely in the inside groove and not up on the tubeless platforms. Good tubeless tires have soft rubber on the sidewalls so that they more or less seal without any air in them. So you can use a normal pump to inflate them. Always remember that carbon rims have extremely low expansion strength so you can never overfill tubeless tires with carbon rims

If you cannot get tubeless tires to seal easily so that you can expand them over their step, you can use soapy water on with a spare paint brush (dish detergent and not laundry soap which can cause problems with the rubber. Better yet - hand washing soap.) This will normally allow you to pump the tire up. Wide tires ride better with lower pressure and a 25 mm tire rides well with 60 psi and my 200 lb bike and body. 10 psi less for my 28's. There is one trick I've never had to use - after the tire is mounted, you can put a strap around the OD of the tire and tighten it up with will expand the sidewalls out onto the edge of the steps and allow the air to seal enough to begin filling and jumping up on the step.

Real road racing tires generally have soft rubber tread surfaces and they wear quite rapidly. Continental GP 5000's wore very rapidly for me (750 miles to dead on their feet.) I understand that the Pirelli racing tires wear even more rapidly but people like what they like.

As for innertubes. Butyl rubber innertubes are cheap and seal pretty well. Latex tubes are about 30% more expensive and they have low rolling resistance. But the disadvantage is that they leak quite rapidly and should be pumped up before each ride while rubber innertubes can usually go two rides before filling. There are some thermal plastic innertubes coming on the market but I don't know much about them other than they are at least as light as latex, have flat protection like Butyl Rubber an that they cost as much as a good tire. Racers need to scavenge every gram but sports riders can ride a bike 2 lbs heavier and not know the difference.