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tech / rec.bicycles.tech / Cranks set and play real question tech

SubjectAuthor
* Cranks set and play real question techMark Cleary
`* Re: Cranks set and play real question techTom Kunich
 `* Re: Cranks set and play real question techMark Cleary
  +- Re: Cranks set and play real question techTom Kunich
  `* Re: Cranks set and play real question techTom Kunich
   `* Re: Cranks set and play real question techMark Cleary
    `* Re: Cranks set and play real question techTom Kunich
     `* Re: Cranks set and play real question techMark Cleary
      `- Re: Cranks set and play real question techTom Kunich

1
Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: deaconmj...@gmail.com (Mark Cleary)
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 by: Mark Cleary - Sat, 16 Apr 2022 18:38 UTC

I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.

This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.

What do you know
Deacon Mark

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: cyclin...@gmail.com (Tom Kunich)
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 by: Tom Kunich - Sat, 16 Apr 2022 19:10 UTC

On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
>
> This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.

You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: deaconmj...@gmail.com (Mark Cleary)
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 by: Mark Cleary - Sat, 16 Apr 2022 23:27 UTC

On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
> >
> > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.

Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
Deacon Mark
Deacon Mark

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: cyclin...@gmail.com (Tom Kunich)
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 by: Tom Kunich - Sun, 17 Apr 2022 00:21 UTC

On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it..
> > >
> > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.

OK, I looked up: the FSA BB which you probably have - the MegaEvo. It CAN have a split wave washer with overlapping ends. This type of BB has a rubber seal installed on the inside outside of the bearing already so the wave washer goes on the outside. So you just tighten it up until there is no play but the cranks still spin without friction and lock that locking mechanism. I must have the earlier BB with free standing seal. On the type you probably have the wave washer is suppose to contact the inside race which stand slightly proud of the outside race. If the wave washer is smashed flat buy a new one. You should be able to get the correct size within a day or two from Amazon. With Ebay it might take two weeks to get it.

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: cyclin...@gmail.com (Tom Kunich)
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 by: Tom Kunich - Sun, 17 Apr 2022 00:31 UTC

On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it..
> > >
> > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
> Deacon Mark
> Deacon Mark

By the way, the 105 cranks don't fail like the Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks do. Although I haven't had any Ultegra cranks fail, I have had TWO of the Dura Ace cranks fail. I read some review of those Dura Ace cranks that said that "although they are rumored to fail, it is extremely rare" Well, I now spin up hills (albeit slowly) and I have had TWO crack open though I could ride them home carefully and throw them away. You can tell because they start making all kinds of clicking noise and if you look closely you can see the separation.

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: deaconmj...@gmail.com (Mark Cleary)
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 by: Mark Cleary - Thu, 21 Apr 2022 20:12 UTC

On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 7:32:00 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
> > > >
> > > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play..
> > > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> > Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
> > Deacon Mark
> > Deacon Mark
> By the way, the 105 cranks don't fail like the Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks do. Although I haven't had any Ultegra cranks fail, I have had TWO of the Dura Ace cranks fail. I read some review of those Dura Ace cranks that said that "although they are rumored to fail, it is extremely rare" Well, I now spin up hills (albeit slowly) and I have had TWO crack open though I could ride them home carefully and throw them away. You can tell because they start making all kinds of clicking noise and if you look closely you can see the separation.

I got a set of spacers and new wavy washer. I put the new wavy washer in and then 2 very thin spacers I think they were 1mm total or 2. Then pulled up the right crank arm and it took the preload just right. 54 mile ride today and no play in the cranks at all when I started and was finished. They spin pretty good and this cured the problem. I am going to upgrade to a Shimano R7000 crank I like Shimano better than FSA.
Deacon mark

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: cyclin...@gmail.com (Tom Kunich)
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 by: Tom Kunich - Thu, 21 Apr 2022 20:31 UTC

On Thursday, April 21, 2022 at 1:12:09 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 7:32:00 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
> > > > >
> > > > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> > > > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> > > Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank.. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
> > > Deacon Mark
> > > Deacon Mark
> > By the way, the 105 cranks don't fail like the Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks do. Although I haven't had any Ultegra cranks fail, I have had TWO of the Dura Ace cranks fail. I read some review of those Dura Ace cranks that said that "although they are rumored to fail, it is extremely rare" Well, I now spin up hills (albeit slowly) and I have had TWO crack open though I could ride them home carefully and throw them away. You can tell because they start making all kinds of clicking noise and if you look closely you can see the separation.
> I got a set of spacers and new wavy washer. I put the new wavy washer in and then 2 very thin spacers I think they were 1mm total or 2. Then pulled up the right crank arm and it took the preload just right. 54 mile ride today and no play in the cranks at all when I started and was finished. They spin pretty good and this cured the problem. I am going to upgrade to a Shimano R7000 crank I like Shimano better than FSA.
> Deacon mark
Remember that you'll have the same problem spacing the 105 crankset. (Or any other Shimano crank.)

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: deaconmj...@gmail.com (Mark Cleary)
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 by: Mark Cleary - Wed, 27 Apr 2022 19:39 UTC

On Thursday, April 21, 2022 at 3:31:21 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Thursday, April 21, 2022 at 1:12:09 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 7:32:00 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> > > > > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> > > > Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
> > > > Deacon Mark
> > > > Deacon Mark
> > > By the way, the 105 cranks don't fail like the Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks do. Although I haven't had any Ultegra cranks fail, I have had TWO of the Dura Ace cranks fail. I read some review of those Dura Ace cranks that said that "although they are rumored to fail, it is extremely rare" Well, I now spin up hills (albeit slowly) and I have had TWO crack open though I could ride them home carefully and throw them away. You can tell because they start making all kinds of clicking noise and if you look closely you can see the separation.
> > I got a set of spacers and new wavy washer. I put the new wavy washer in and then 2 very thin spacers I think they were 1mm total or 2. Then pulled up the right crank arm and it took the preload just right. 54 mile ride today and no play in the cranks at all when I started and was finished. They spin pretty good and this cured the problem. I am going to upgrade to a Shimano R7000 crank I like Shimano better than FSA.
> > Deacon mark
> Remember that you'll have the same problem spacing the 105 crankset. (Or any other Shimano crank.)
Bought a new R7000 crankset and Shimano BB60 bottom backet. Installed and the puppy runs runs great. I love thread BB and the external BB are the best.. This was great the bike shifts and spins way better than the FSA but I am sure the BB being 8 years old did not help. It was not shot but just not a smooth and the shimano by far.

Considering my laptop crashed after 15 months HP and ATT gave me a huge hassel on upgrading to an IPhone 12, at least for the bikes it was a great week. Pissed that ATT sent me knew phone but gave me a new number. Then trying to diagnose why my laptop won't boot, it makes working on bikes pretty easy. Nothing to electronical to diagnose and much easier to eliminate problems. Not always cheaper though if you need serious upgrade parts.
Deacon mark

Re: Cranks set and play real question tech

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Subject: Re: Cranks set and play real question tech
From: cyclin...@gmail.com (Tom Kunich)
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 by: Tom Kunich - Wed, 27 Apr 2022 20:59 UTC

On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 12:39:16 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Thursday, April 21, 2022 at 3:31:21 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Thursday, April 21, 2022 at 1:12:09 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 7:32:00 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 4:27:12 PM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 2:10:18 PM UTC-5, cycl...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > On Saturday, April 16, 2022 at 11:38:33 AM UTC-7, deaco...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > I have a mega-expo FSA EXT BER Bottom Bracket on my WIlier. Normally I have have just been riding it on the trainer. Well I took it out today and noticed the cranks have just a little bit of play in them very little less than 2mm. The bike shifts fine no real issue except you can barely see the play and I am not sure if it supposed to have a least some but I doubt it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > This has the wavy washer on the non drive side. I used the 8mm key to remove crank and that was hard after 8 years of never been off. Finally took off and reinstalled. I notice the wavy washer does have break it is a ring but not completely enclosed circle. Is that correct or should be a complete ring? Then it gets really hard at the end to tighten but does and while the cranks work fine still play in spindle. The bb bearings are fine they spin great but seems like I cannot snug the crank arm to get to zero play.
> > > > > > You can get a new wave washer which is supposed to be a single length like any other washer from Amazon for less than $9. If I remember correctly the wave washer is under a rubber seal and you set the clearance until it doesn't move back and forth but still rotates freely at which point you lock the lock ring in place. I have a special tool for this but you can use anything that fits in those holes.
> > > > > Yes but when I took it off no rubber seal has not had one. The thing that I need to make sure is it is snugged up tight but no play in the crank. I bought a replacement set that include a wavy washer and some spacers and seals. It is from Wheels Manufacturing and they said the spacers are Delrin and not steel or aluminum. I assume that works just as well or better but I do need to take up the play. This old FSA is a nice carbon crank I would rather go to shimano but I cannot find and 6700 compact crank 175mm. The other thought is to go to an 11 spd 105 crank I think that will work and then if I upgrade drivetain to 11 spd I closer.
> > > > > Deacon Mark
> > > > > Deacon Mark
> > > > By the way, the 105 cranks don't fail like the Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks do. Although I haven't had any Ultegra cranks fail, I have had TWO of the Dura Ace cranks fail. I read some review of those Dura Ace cranks that said that "although they are rumored to fail, it is extremely rare" Well, I now spin up hills (albeit slowly) and I have had TWO crack open though I could ride them home carefully and throw them away. You can tell because they start making all kinds of clicking noise and if you look closely you can see the separation.
> > > I got a set of spacers and new wavy washer. I put the new wavy washer in and then 2 very thin spacers I think they were 1mm total or 2. Then pulled up the right crank arm and it took the preload just right. 54 mile ride today and no play in the cranks at all when I started and was finished. They spin pretty good and this cured the problem. I am going to upgrade to a Shimano R7000 crank I like Shimano better than FSA.
> > > Deacon mark
> > Remember that you'll have the same problem spacing the 105 crankset. (Or any other Shimano crank.)
> Bought a new R7000 crankset and Shimano BB60 bottom backet. Installed and the puppy runs runs great. I love thread BB and the external BB are the best. This was great the bike shifts and spins way better than the FSA but I am sure the BB being 8 years old did not help. It was not shot but just not a smooth and the shimano by far.
>
> Considering my laptop crashed after 15 months HP and ATT gave me a huge hassel on upgrading to an IPhone 12, at least for the bikes it was a great week. Pissed that ATT sent me knew phone but gave me a new number. Then trying to diagnose why my laptop won't boot, it makes working on bikes pretty easy. Nothing to electronical to diagnose and much easier to eliminate problems. Not always cheaper though if you need serious upgrade parts.

FSA bearings are now what I would call, top end. They are replaceable.

1
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