I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
(plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
we get an unusual amount of rain.

The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
them much less capacity.

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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
(plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
we get an unusual amount of rain.

The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
them much less capacity.
----------------------

You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
galvy roofing.

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>
>I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
>or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
>aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>(plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>we get an unusual amount of rain.
>
>The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>them much less capacity.
>----------------------
>
>You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>galvy roofing.

Or drain holes ...
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
<phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:

>"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
>-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>>I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>>Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
>>or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
>>aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>>technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>>I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>>hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>>them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>>(plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>>we get an unusual amount of rain.
>>
>>The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>>most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>>them much less capacity.
>>----------------------
>>
>>You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>>galvy roofing.
>
> Or drain holes ...

But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
drill bit...
--
Cheers,

Schweik

On 4/17/2022 3:53 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
> "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
> -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
>> or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
>> aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>> technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>> I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>> hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>> them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>> (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>> we get an unusual amount of rain.
>>
>> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>> them much less capacity.
>> ----------------------
>>
>> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>> galvy roofing.
>
> Or drain holes ...

There are reasons I may not want drain holes in the bottoms. I've also
noted barrels with holes in the bottom seem to start rusting out quicker.

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On 4/17/2022 4:16 PM, goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk wrote:
> On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
> <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>> "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
>> -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>>
>>> I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
>>> or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
>>> aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>>> technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>>> I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>>> hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
>>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>>> them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>>> (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>>> we get an unusual amount of rain.
>>>
>>> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>>> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>>> them much less capacity.
>>> ----------------------
>>>
>>> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>>> galvy roofing.
>>
>> Or drain holes ...
>
>
> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
> drill bit...
> --
> Cheers,
>
> Schweik

Keep thinking about that. Eventually you will get it.

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On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>
> I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
> Roundup) that have been rinsed out.  I'd like to cut the top out of two
> or three of them to organize scrap metal.  Wrought, aluminum, cast
> aluminum, and copper.  Sure I could just make piles outside, but
> technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
> I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
> hauling toting and stacking as it is now.  I don't want to push my luck.
>  now.  I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
> them to fill with water.  I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
> (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
> we get an unusual amount of rain.
>
> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
> them much less capacity.
> ----------------------
>
> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
> corrugated galvy roofing.

Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent
price and since they are local... no shipping.

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On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:43:56 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

>On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out.  I'd like to cut the top out of two
>> or three of them to organize scrap metal.  Wrought, aluminum, cast
>> aluminum, and copper.  Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>> technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>> I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>> hauling toting and stacking as it is now.  I don't want to push my luck.
>>  now.  I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>> them to fill with water.  I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>> (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>> we get an unusual amount of rain.
>>
>> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>> them much less capacity.
>> ----------------------
>>
>> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
>> corrugated galvy roofing.
>
>
>
>Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent
>price and since they are local... no shipping.

persnaly I would go with sections of corrugated roofing with three or
four longish through bolts to locate, might also need a rock in case
of wind

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3i8nr$5cj$1@dont-email.me...

On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
> corrugated galvy roofing.

Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent
price and since they are local... no shipping.

----------------

The covers on my scrap metal barrels are black plastic water heater pans
covered with a tarp, and weighted with spare PVC and galvy tubing and gutter
sections that can be stored outside. They are in the shade of a shed and
pine trees so sun damage is less of a concern than falling branches.

If they were more exposed to intruders I might weight them with several
smallish sandbags etc that aren't very useful as break-in tools. I learned
to see rocks and other hard heavy objects as burglary aids from a friend who
had done time.

I finally got that inexpensive PTZ surveillance camera to work with a laptop
over a direct WiFi link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DTQKB52/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
The software and instructions could be more helpful. I'm not familiar with
smart phones and routers and am still trying to connect it to a free older
phone.

Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:36:33 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>On 4/17/2022 3:53 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
>> "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
>> -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>>
>>> I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
>>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
>>> or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
>>> aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
>>> technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
>>> I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
>>> hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
>>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
>>> them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
>>> (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
>>> we get an unusual amount of rain.
>>>
>>> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>>> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>>> them much less capacity.
>>> ----------------------
>>>
>>> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>>> galvy roofing.
>>
>> Or drain holes ...
>
>There are reasons I may not want drain holes in the bottoms. I've also
>noted barrels with holes in the bottom seem to start rusting out quicker.

I can agree. Hollows in the scrap will hold water, rust and
corrosion. Not to mention breed skeeters.
I suspect that holes in the bottom rust out faster because of the
bare metal left exposed after drilling.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk on Mon, 18 Apr 2022 06:16:29 +0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
><phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
>>-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>>"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>>
>>>The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>>>most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>>>them much less capacity.
>>>----------------------
>>>
>>>You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>>>galvy roofing.
>>
>> Or drain holes ...
>
>
>But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
>bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
>drill bit...

naw, all you need to do is hold the barrel over your head and work
from inside.

Just don't let it slip and conk you on your poor little head.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On 4/18/2022 9:08 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
> goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk on Mon, 18 Apr 2022 06:16:29 +0700
> typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>> On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
>> <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>> "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
>>> -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...
>>>>
>>>> The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
>>>> most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
>>>> them much less capacity.
>>>> ----------------------
>>>>
>>>> You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
>>>> galvy roofing.
>>>
>>> Or drain holes ...
>>
>>
>> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
>> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
>> drill bit...
>
> naw, all you need to do is hold the barrel over your head and work
> from inside.
>
> Just don't let it slip and conk you on your poor little head.

LOL-IRL

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But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
drill bit...
Schweik

----------------------
The perfect tool for the task:
https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until
you learn it's true name.

Speaking of red-neck methods...

As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner
that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it
upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then
clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
and brushed free-hand)

I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.

On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
> drill bit...
> Schweik
>
> ----------------------
> The perfect tool for the task:
> https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
> It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until
> you learn it's true name.
>
> Speaking of red-neck methods...
>
> As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
> to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
> rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
> or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
> a row of holes and hay-wired it down.
>
> The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner
> that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it
> upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then
> clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
> it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
> and brushed free-hand)
>
> I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.

On 4/18/2022 10:18 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
> drill bit...
> Schweik
>
> ----------------------
> The perfect tool for the task:
> https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
>
> It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one
> until you learn it's true name.
>
> Speaking of red-neck methods...
>
> As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent
> out to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads
> had rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much
> for tools or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my
> .22, so I shot a row of holes and hay-wired it down.
>
> The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake
> cleaner that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa.
> He held it upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the
> propellant out, then clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from
> spilling, but the girls removed it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty
> brake calipers. (The guys let them and brushed free-hand)
>
> I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
>

I own a straight pick. Sometimes it will keep going even when a double
jack bounces off.

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On 4/18/2022 11:08 AM, Chris Pain wrote:
> On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
>> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
>> drill bit...
>> Schweik
>>
>> ----------------------
>> The perfect tool for the task:
>> https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
>> It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until
>> you learn it's true name.
>>
>> Speaking of red-neck methods...
>>
>> As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
>> to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
>> rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
>> or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
>> a row of holes and hay-wired it down.
>>
>> The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner
>> that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it
>> upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then
>> clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
>> it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
>> and brushed free-hand)
>>
>> I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
> Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.

Did it split the seam like a Magic Chef can opener? That would be
really cool. I have seen can openers for drums, but most look like they
used the a shear like a P38 can opener. Just with an extra along lever.

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On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 5:49:09 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 4/18/2022 11:08 AM, Chris Pain wrote:
> > On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> >> But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
> >> bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
> >> drill bit...
> >> Schweik
> >>
> >> ----------------------
> >> The perfect tool for the task:
> >> https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
> >> It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until
> >> you learn it's true name.
> >>
> >> Speaking of red-neck methods...
> >>
> >> As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
> >> to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
> >> rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
> >> or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
> >> a row of holes and hay-wired it down.
> >>
> >> The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner
> >> that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it
> >> upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then
> >> clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
> >> it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
> >> and brushed free-hand)
> >>
> >> I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
> > Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.
> Did it split the seam like a Magic Chef can opener? That would be
> really cool. I have seen can openers for drums, but most look like they
> used the a shear like a P38 can opener. Just with an extra along lever.
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> https://www.avg.com
Yes it split the rim of the drumat about mid height, leaving an easily replaceable lid if desired. Ours was electric and clamped on teh rim and walked around the drum to do it's job. Worked a treat!