The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from way
oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in some
expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
exposed to chips.

I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks. The
general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful. Pix
of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and reassemble,
as long as every part goes back where it came from.

How do you maintain your lathe chucks?

On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which
> is exposed to chips.
>
> I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but
> the manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as
> careful. Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip
> and reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
>
> How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
>

It may depend on the chuck. LeBlonde suggests starting with the manual
that came with your chuck. Then they go on to write more on the
subject. https://leblondusa.com/lubricate-your-chuck/

I'd probably be more inclined to consider LeBlonde to be an
authoritative source than a lot of other sources.

"After reassembling the chuck and attaching to your manual, engine lathe
like the RKL Series that LeBlond sells, stand to the side of the machine
to avoid getting drenched by the oil when the lathe gets up to speed."

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On Saturday, October 29, 2022 at 4:17:01 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> > way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> > some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which
> > is exposed to chips.
> >
> > I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks..
> > The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but
> > the manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as
> > careful. Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip
> > and reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
> >
> > How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
> >
> It may depend on the chuck. LeBlonde suggests starting with the manual
> that came with your chuck. Then they go on to write more on the
> subject. https://leblondusa.com/lubricate-your-chuck/
>
> I'd probably be more inclined to consider LeBlonde to be an
> authoritative source than a lot of other sources.
>
> "After reassembling the chuck and attaching to your manual, engine lathe
> like the RKL Series that LeBlond sells, stand to the side of the machine
> to avoid getting drenched by the oil when the lathe gets up to speed."
>
>
> --
> Bob La Londe
> CNC Molds N Stuff
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
> www.avg.com

I believe either Bison or Buck or maybe both make a lube for their chucks . Jim I have been very happy with my Sanou chuck for many years now . Just make sure the jaws & slots are numbered before dissembling . I made that mistake with my first chuck many years back . It took a lot longer to put back together than it took to take apart . Kicked myself in the ass a couple of times for that one .
good luck
animal

"Laura Allen" wrote in message
news:6b2ab927-c1e3-4292-9f79-4143d1ab6426n@googlegroups.com...

I believe either Bison or Buck or maybe both make a lube for their chucks .
Jim I have been very happy with my Sanou chuck for many years now . Just
make sure the jaws & slots are numbered before dissembling . I made that
mistake with my first chuck many years back . It took a lot longer to put
back together than it took to take apart . Kicked myself in the ass a couple
of times for that one .
good luck
animal

----------------------

I used to rebuild motorcycles so I have muffin trays to keep track of parts
that shouldn't be marked, like engine valves, and a set of dollar store nail
polish in the electronic color codes for numbering and marking polarity. A
red '+' on a black battery case shows up much better on a white background.
It's fun to see the clerk's reaction when I ask for help with the nail
polish, they are very helpful after getting over their initial negativity.

I have number punches for soft or thin metal, a broken tap reground to a
punch for dotting steel, to avoid damaging my good center and number
punches, and a Dremel cutoff wheel to mark hard steel with Roman numerals
which consist of straight lines up to C. The acid pen I tried expands into a
blur.

The real question is if anyone can recommend from experience an effective
and readily available lubricant that doesn't hold dust or chips, possibly a
bicycle chain lube or the Liquid Wrench dry lube that the LeBlond video
suggests. Someone suggested putting a cardboard box over the chuck before
spinning it at max speed to expel the grease or oil. I'd retract the jaws
into the chuck body first to avoid a dramatic display of confetti.

On Sun, 30 Oct 2022 08:45:58 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>The real question is if anyone can recommend from experience an effective
>and readily available lubricant that doesn't hold dust or chips, possibly a
>bicycle chain lube or the Liquid Wrench dry lube that the LeBlond video
>suggests. Someone suggested putting a cardboard box over the chuck before
>spinning it at max speed to expel the grease or oil. I'd retract the jaws
>into the chuck body first to avoid a dramatic display of confetti.

I've used Chain Wax similar to:

https://www.amazon.com/Speedmaster-Wax-Bicycle-Chain-Lube/dp/B071VZ7D4Z/

on my bicycle. Heat container in double boiler and let chain sit in
melted wax for several minutes. Lift out and let solidify. Good for 500
miles or so. It's not really messy to handle and is really sweat for
the first couple hundred miles riding.

Now how to apply it to your chuck if you wanted to try some is another
story ;-) Close tolerances in fittings maybe an issue...

Dri-Slide is still around too:

https://www.drislide.com

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which
> is exposed to chips.
>
> I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but
> the manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as
> careful. Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip
> and reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
>
> How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
>

FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> exposed to chips.
>
> I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
>
> How do you maintain your lathe chucks?

FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.

----------------

I saw pictures of chucks like that, but no agreement on what type or weight
of oil to use. Since mine is a leather belt driven lathe with HSS tools it
doesn't usually spin very fast with the larger chucks. I have small chucks
and collets for small close-in work and a smaller, faster lathe for deep
drilling and polishing.

On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 3:39:12 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
> On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> > way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> > some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> > exposed to chips.
> >
> > I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> > The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> > manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> > Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> > reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
> >
> > How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
>
>
> FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
> ----------------
>
> I saw pictures of chucks like that, but no agreement on what type or weight
> of oil to use. Since mine is a leather belt driven lathe with HSS tools it
> doesn't usually spin very fast with the larger chucks. I have small chucks
> and collets for small close-in work and a smaller, faster lathe for deep
> drilling and polishing.

On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 3:39:12 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
> On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> > way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> > some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> > exposed to chips.
> >
> > I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> > The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> > manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> > Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> > reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
> >
> > How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
>
>
> FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
> ----------------
>
> I saw pictures of chucks like that, but no agreement on what type or weight
> of oil to use. Since mine is a leather belt driven lathe with HSS tools it
> doesn't usually spin very fast with the larger chucks. I have small chucks
> and collets for small close-in work and a smaller, faster lathe for deep
> drilling and polishing.

On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 7:14:17 PM UTC-7, Laura Allen wrote:
> On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 3:39:12 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
> > On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > > The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> > > way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> > > some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> > > exposed to chips.
> > >
> > > I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> > > The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> > > manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> > > Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> > > reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
> > >
> > > How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
> >
> >
> > FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
> > ----------------
> >
> > I saw pictures of chucks like that, but no agreement on what type or weight
> > of oil to use. Since mine is a leather belt driven lathe with HSS tools it
> > doesn't usually spin very fast with the larger chucks. I have small chucks
> > and collets for small close-in work and a smaller, faster lathe for deep
> > drilling and polishing.

On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 7:14:17 PM UTC-7, Laura Allen wrote:
> On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 3:39:12 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
> > On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> > > The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> > > way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> > > some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> > > exposed to chips.
> > >
> > > I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> > > The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> > > manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> > > Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> > > reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
> > >
> > > How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
> >
> >
> > FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
> > ----------------
> >
> > I saw pictures of chucks like that, but no agreement on what type or weight
> > of oil to use. Since mine is a leather belt driven lathe with HSS tools it
> > doesn't usually spin very fast with the larger chucks. I have small chucks
> > and collets for small close-in work and a smaller, faster lathe for deep
> > drilling and polishing.
Amazon has some https://www.amazon.com/CHUCK-EEZ-Chuck-Lubricant-oz-Cartridge/dp/B075FD2GYP/ref=sr_1_28?crid=2CI9VBU4BH9UT&keywords=lathe+chuck+lube&qid=1667268752&sprefix=lathe+chuck+lu%2Caps%2C1116&sr=8-28
Bison has theirs https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/bilachgrforb.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=bilachgrforb&gclid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dGOgGGYKOjkrDuv_RBdPcueyD4U4Es4MR6nCM4ye-6BYyu1eTvcH1RoCwdYQAvD_BwE
A google came up with a few .
animal

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjkc99$3oah9$1@dont-email.me...

On 10/29/2022 3:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> The Net abounds with answers to what to use, all different, ranging from
> way oil to antiseize to powdered graphite. Dry molybdenum disulfide in
> some expensive form seems to be a preferred answer for the scroll which is
> exposed to chips.
>
> I ordered the 6-jaw after reading many positive reviews of Sanou chucks.
> The general opinion appears to be that they are precisely machined but the
> manual ops of deburring and cleaning them may not have been as careful.
> Pix of opened chucks suggested that they aren't tricky to strip and
> reassemble, as long as every part goes back where it came from.
>
> How do you maintain your lathe chucks?
>

It may depend on the chuck. LeBlonde suggests starting with the manual
that came with your chuck. Then they go on to write more on the
subject. https://leblondusa.com/lubricate-your-chuck/

I'd probably be more inclined to consider LeBlonde to be an
authoritative source than a lot of other sources.

"After reassembling the chuck and attaching to your manual, engine lathe
like the RKL Series that LeBlond sells, stand to the side of the machine
to avoid getting drenched by the oil when the lathe gets up to speed."

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

----------------

It's odd that LeBlond's Halligan142 video link features a South Bend lathe.
In part 2 he used grease on the scroll and shows that the old grease
collected chips and the new stuff slung out inside the cardboard box. I'm
leaning toward my usual marine lower unit grease on the bevel gear side and
moly dry lube on the scroll and jaw tracks.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1@gioia.aioe.org...

FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.

-------------------

This Sanou does too. What oil do you use?

On 11/3/2022 3:21 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1@gioia.aioe.org...
> FYI:  My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
>
> -------------------
>
> This Sanou does too. What oil do you use?
>

I just use #2 way oil on everything except those items that specify
otherwise. My CNC rotab, knee mill spindle, and gear boxes on the lathe
specify other stuff, and a few things like power feed bevel gears and
surface grinder gears specify grease, but for everything else... if it
has an oil port I pump it full of #2 way oil.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tk1gvd$u3$1@gioia.aioe.org...

On 11/3/2022 3:21 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tjp0fn$1o3c$1@gioia.aioe.org...
> FYI: My six jaw has a ball oil port right on the face.
>
> -------------------
>
> This Sanou does too. What oil do you use?
>

I just use #2 way oil on everything except those items that specify
otherwise. My CNC rotab, knee mill spindle, and gear boxes on the lathe
specify other stuff, and a few things like power feed bevel gears and
surface grinder gears specify grease, but for everything else... if it
has an oil port I pump it full of #2 way oil.

---------------------

Thanks. I use way oil on everything that slides or rotates slowly. It's in a
classic brass Eagle #66 oiler that I bought new at the last nearby
industrial supply house shortly before it closed.

O'Reilly carries CRC Dry Moly Lube spray on special order. I try to support
local stores before ordering on line.