I saw this shared on somebody's timeline on Facebook. There were over
600 comments which means its pretty well hated (love is not so
motivational for so many).

https://www.facebook.com/100044717711491/posts/760297725470811/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v

I went back to the original poster to make sure it was a real post they
were sharing. It showed over 1000 comments of similar amazement,
disgust, and repulsion. The original post was also shared over 3000
times. You should be able to view the original post and the pictures
without logging on to Facebook.

Never mind the business atrocious business practices made in the
poster's claims. Just look at the metal.

1. It is obvious that they used whatever scrap they had lay around. I
do mean scrap, although I save scrap myself.

2. Many of the commenters claimed they compromised the frame of the
truck. Due to the lack of penetration and adhesion that may not be the
case, although if the welds were "good" it certainly could have.

3. One of the things that caught my attention were all the ragged
unfinished torch cuts of the scrap itself. I'm no expert with a torch,
but I can do better than that. Nevermind that they didn't even knock
off the easy slag with a hammer much less clean it up with a grinder.

4. Of course the rails riding on top of what is function a sponge
(plastic bed liner) is a huge issue. Even if everything else was good
the rail bolts would snap off modestly quickly from the flex this allows.

5. Then there were no longer any things I could distract myself with.
I was forced to look at the welds directly. Trying very hard not to
vomit I studied the dried "vomit" holding the "brackets" in place. Many
people in the comments claimed that the wrong rod was used, and it was
welded to cold. Those things may be true, but I have executed better
looking welds with the wrong rod and a welder that couldn't get any
hotter. I have welded stuff that was to thick for the current of the
welder I was using. To me this looks a lot like a flux shielded weld
attempted with DCEP instead of DCEN. The shitty welds and the amount of
spatter still stuck to the parts even after what looks like a cursory
cleanup says flux core. The lack of anything resembling welds says
wrong polarity flux wire, but...

5.b. I think an equally bad weld could have been achieved with correct
polarity because it doesn't appear they even ground off the undercoating
before welding. Most modern trucks have a protective undercoating on
the frame that is as tough as a plastic powder coating paint which is
what it probably it is. I have used a welding rod (no clue what it was)
repairing t-posts for my grandfathers vineyard as a youth that seemed to
burn through, rust, paint and dirt. I think his was badly mig welded.

Look at the bill if you like. They charged a good shape rate to do the
job. I recently installed a set of brackets and hitch rails for a
removable hitch in my work truck (2 years ago maybe less). I have both
a gooseneck plate and a fifth wheel hitch to go in my rails, and I have
pulled both with it since. Anyway, I bought a proper set of rails and
brackets along with an electronic hitch controller on-line retail from a
trailers parts vendor. I bought my gooseneck plate from a local farm
supply, and I bought the 5th wheel used hitch on Facebook Market place.
I think the cost of materials with a universal bracket kit was under a
grand. It might have been slightly over if I had used the exact fit
bracket kit. Figure retail for a basic hitch like that they might have
been into it to do it right with proper materials AT RETAIL for
1500-1800 dollars. Since they are a "professional" hitch shop they are
likely buying wholesale or at least at jobber prices. Even if they paid
retail that still leaves over 3 grand for labor, shop supplies and a
shop profit if they had used all new exact fit parts from a known name
brand manufacturer.

When I installed mine I through bolted everything and welded nothing
with the supplied hardware. I did not have to buy a single additional
bolt, washer, nut or press fit knurl nut. Correction. I used my own
stainless steel hardware when I cut the hole in the bed for the
electrical connector in front of the wheel well. I had my son do a fair
bit of the work. He's smart, but he's not a mechanical person like
myself. He read the instructions and followed what it said. I came out
to old or press on the heads of bolts a few times when he needed a hand.
It took less than a day for somebody who had never installed a hitch
before in his life.

To be fair I often am able to do jobs in far less than the book hours
for a job.

If the shop rate is $100 an hour and the "mechanic" is slow it might
cost $1000 of shop labor to install a hitch like this PROPERLY.

It seems like an awfully involved post, documentation, and potential for
legal liability to just be a hit piece. Still I feel obligated to say,
"if this is real" I am appalled. This is news station expose worthy
destruction of property.

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On 4/6/2023 10:24 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> I saw this shared on somebody's timeline on Facebook.  There were over
> 600 comments which means its pretty well hated (love is not so
> motivational for so many).
>
> https://www.facebook.com/100044717711491/posts/760297725470811/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v
>
> I went back to the original poster to make sure it was a real post they
> were sharing.  It showed over 1000 comments of similar amazement,
> disgust, and repulsion.  The original post was also shared over 3000
> times.  You should be able to view the original post and the pictures
> without logging on to Facebook.
>
> Never mind the business atrocious business practices made in the
> poster's claims.  Just look at the metal.
>
> 1.  It is obvious that they used whatever scrap they had lay around.  I
> do mean scrap, although I save scrap myself.
>
> 2.  Many of the commenters claimed they compromised the frame of the
> truck.  Due to the lack of penetration and adhesion that may not be the
> case, although if the welds were "good" it certainly could have.
>
> 3.  One of the things that caught my attention were all the ragged
> unfinished torch cuts of the scrap itself.  I'm no expert with a torch,
> but I can do better than that.  Nevermind that they didn't even knock
> off the easy slag with a hammer much less clean it up with a grinder.
>
> 4.  Of course the rails riding on top of what is function a sponge
> (plastic bed liner) is a huge issue.  Even if everything else was good
> the rail bolts would snap off modestly quickly from the flex this allows.
>
> 5.  Then there were no longer any things I could distract myself with. I
> was forced to look at the welds directly.  Trying very hard not to vomit
> I studied the dried "vomit" holding the "brackets" in place.  Many
> people in the comments claimed that the wrong rod was used, and it was
> welded to cold.  Those things may be true, but I have executed better
> looking welds with the wrong rod and a welder that couldn't get any
> hotter.  I have welded stuff that was to thick for the current of the
> welder I was using.  To me this looks a lot like a flux shielded weld
> attempted with DCEP instead of DCEN.  The shitty welds and the amount of
> spatter still stuck to the parts even after what looks like a cursory
> cleanup says flux core.  The lack of anything resembling welds says
> wrong polarity flux wire, but...
>
> 5.b.  I think an equally bad weld could have been achieved with correct
> polarity because it doesn't appear they even ground off the undercoating
> before welding.  Most modern trucks have a protective undercoating on
> the frame that is as tough as a plastic powder coating paint which is
> what it probably it is.  I have used a welding rod (no clue what it was)
> repairing t-posts for my grandfathers vineyard as a youth that seemed to
> burn through, rust, paint and dirt.  I think his was badly mig welded.
>
> Look at the bill if you like.  They charged a good shape rate to do the
> job.  I recently installed a set of brackets and hitch rails for a
> removable hitch in my work truck (2 years ago maybe less).  I have both
> a gooseneck plate and a fifth wheel hitch to go in my rails, and I have
> pulled both with it since.  Anyway, I bought a proper set of rails and
> brackets along with an electronic hitch controller on-line retail from a
> trailers parts vendor.  I bought my gooseneck plate from a local farm
> supply, and I bought the 5th wheel used hitch on Facebook Market place.
> I think the cost of materials with a universal bracket kit was under a
> grand.  It might have been slightly over if I had used the exact fit
> bracket kit.  Figure retail for a basic hitch like that they might have
> been into it to do it right with proper materials AT RETAIL for
> 1500-1800 dollars.  Since they are a "professional" hitch shop they are
> likely buying wholesale or at least at jobber prices.  Even if they paid
> retail that still leaves over 3 grand for labor, shop supplies and a
> shop profit if they had used all new exact fit parts from a known name
> brand manufacturer.
>
> When I installed mine I through bolted everything and welded nothing
> with the supplied hardware.  I did not have to buy a single additional
> bolt, washer, nut or press fit knurl nut.  Correction.  I used my own
> stainless steel hardware when I cut the hole in the bed for the
> electrical connector in front of the wheel well.  I had my son do a fair
> bit of the work.  He's smart, but he's not a mechanical person like
> myself.  He read the instructions and followed what it said.  I came out
> to old or press on the heads of bolts a few times when he needed a hand.
>  It took less than a day for somebody who had never installed a hitch
> before in his life.
>
> To be fair I often am able to do jobs in far less than the book hours
> for a job.
>
> If the shop rate is $100 an hour and the "mechanic" is slow it might
> cost $1000 of shop labor to install a hitch like this PROPERLY.
>
> It seems like an awfully involved post, documentation, and potential for
> legal liability to just be a hit piece.  Still I feel obligated to say,
> "if this is real" I am appalled.  This is news station expose worthy
> destruction of property.
>
>
>

Wow! 500 additional comments and 500 additional shares to the original
post since I started writing this post.

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On Thu, 6 Apr 2023 10:24:27 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

>I saw this shared on somebody's timeline on Facebook. There were over
>600 comments which means its pretty well hated (love is not so
>motivational for so many).
>
> < https://www.facebook.com/100044717711491/posts/760297725470811/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v >
>
>I went back to the original poster to make sure it was a real post they
>were sharing. It showed over 1000 comments of similar amazement,
>disgust, and repulsion. The original post was also shared over 3000
>times. You should be able to view the original post and the pictures
>without logging on to Facebook.

I certainly saw enough.

If those pictures and story are anything like correct, a lawsuit is in
order, and may be the only way forward. I'd bet it would end up being
settled out of court.

Joe Gwinn

>Never mind the business atrocious business practices made in the
>poster's claims. Just look at the metal.
>
>1. It is obvious that they used whatever scrap they had lay around. I
>do mean scrap, although I save scrap myself.
>
>2. Many of the commenters claimed they compromised the frame of the
>truck. Due to the lack of penetration and adhesion that may not be the
>case, although if the welds were "good" it certainly could have.
>
>3. One of the things that caught my attention were all the ragged
>unfinished torch cuts of the scrap itself. I'm no expert with a torch,
>but I can do better than that. Nevermind that they didn't even knock
>off the easy slag with a hammer much less clean it up with a grinder.
>
>4. Of course the rails riding on top of what is function a sponge
>(plastic bed liner) is a huge issue. Even if everything else was good
>the rail bolts would snap off modestly quickly from the flex this allows.
>
>5. Then there were no longer any things I could distract myself with.
>I was forced to look at the welds directly. Trying very hard not to
>vomit I studied the dried "vomit" holding the "brackets" in place. Many
>people in the comments claimed that the wrong rod was used, and it was
>welded to cold. Those things may be true, but I have executed better
>looking welds with the wrong rod and a welder that couldn't get any
>hotter. I have welded stuff that was to thick for the current of the
>welder I was using. To me this looks a lot like a flux shielded weld
>attempted with DCEP instead of DCEN. The shitty welds and the amount of
>spatter still stuck to the parts even after what looks like a cursory
>cleanup says flux core. The lack of anything resembling welds says
>wrong polarity flux wire, but...
>
>5.b. I think an equally bad weld could have been achieved with correct
>polarity because it doesn't appear they even ground off the undercoating
>before welding. Most modern trucks have a protective undercoating on
>the frame that is as tough as a plastic powder coating paint which is
>what it probably it is. I have used a welding rod (no clue what it was)
>repairing t-posts for my grandfathers vineyard as a youth that seemed to
>burn through, rust, paint and dirt. I think his was badly mig welded.
>
>Look at the bill if you like. They charged a good shape rate to do the
>job. I recently installed a set of brackets and hitch rails for a
>removable hitch in my work truck (2 years ago maybe less). I have both
>a gooseneck plate and a fifth wheel hitch to go in my rails, and I have
>pulled both with it since. Anyway, I bought a proper set of rails and
>brackets along with an electronic hitch controller on-line retail from a
>trailers parts vendor. I bought my gooseneck plate from a local farm
>supply, and I bought the 5th wheel used hitch on Facebook Market place.
>I think the cost of materials with a universal bracket kit was under a
>grand. It might have been slightly over if I had used the exact fit
>bracket kit. Figure retail for a basic hitch like that they might have
>been into it to do it right with proper materials AT RETAIL for
>1500-1800 dollars. Since they are a "professional" hitch shop they are
>likely buying wholesale or at least at jobber prices. Even if they paid
>retail that still leaves over 3 grand for labor, shop supplies and a
>shop profit if they had used all new exact fit parts from a known name
>brand manufacturer.
>
>When I installed mine I through bolted everything and welded nothing
>with the supplied hardware. I did not have to buy a single additional
>bolt, washer, nut or press fit knurl nut. Correction. I used my own
>stainless steel hardware when I cut the hole in the bed for the
>electrical connector in front of the wheel well. I had my son do a fair
>bit of the work. He's smart, but he's not a mechanical person like
>myself. He read the instructions and followed what it said. I came out
>to old or press on the heads of bolts a few times when he needed a hand.
> It took less than a day for somebody who had never installed a hitch
>before in his life.
>
>To be fair I often am able to do jobs in far less than the book hours
>for a job.
>
>If the shop rate is $100 an hour and the "mechanic" is slow it might
>cost $1000 of shop labor to install a hitch like this PROPERLY.
>
>It seems like an awfully involved post, documentation, and potential for
>legal liability to just be a hit piece. Still I feel obligated to say,
>"if this is real" I am appalled. This is news station expose worthy
>destruction of property.
>
>
>
>--
>Bob La Londe
>Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>real machinist

On Thu, 6 Apr 2023 10:26:36 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

<snip>
>Wow! 500 additional comments and 500 additional shares to the original
>post since I started writing this post.

Welding anything to the vehicle frame has been frowned on for quite
some time now. The front Reese style hitch I had bolted to the front of
my old truck had been torched off a sedan in the 1970's. The guy who
sold it to me said the hitch place didn't weld them on like that
anymore...

I've seen welds like that from long arcing stick, like 6013 rods too.
That is REALLY bad😬 especially for someone "selling" their work as a
business...

For myself I'd remove all the added "brackets" and inspect what was
left. Removing the box would be very helpful but not necessary. Likely
use a MIG with a flavor of Dual-Shield to make the frame right again.
Then bolt the hitch in like it should have been done <shrug>

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI