Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
$900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
because the clown didn't lube the spline. I fixed that last year when
I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
(New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
shifter and console tomorrow.
10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -

I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!

On Tue, 16 May 2023 06:46:22 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

>On 5/15/2023 10:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
>> When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
>> to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
>> $900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
>> It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
>> because the clown didn't lube the spline. I fixed that last year when
>> I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
>> replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
>> ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
>> (New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
>> Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
>> tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
>> main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
>> shifter and console tomorrow.
>> 10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
>> Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
>> time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
>>
>> I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
>>
>
> Expensive shops that don't do the work properly are the reason I do
>all my own work . The sole exception is automatic transmissions . Those
>I pull and take to the shop . I'm just a few months older than you , I
>hear you about sometimes living on (OTC) pain killers .

Bleeding the clutch on the ranger is a TERRIBLE job. Finally figured
out a simple way to do it - should work on any hydraulic unit. I just
got a spare cap for the reservoir and drilled it for a 1/8" hose barb
fitting to connect the mity-vac and pulled 20 inches of vacuum and let
it sit for 10 minutes. Released the vacuum and repeated then let it
sit half an hour or so under vacuum and VOILA!!! perfect pedal, and
full release

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:mij86i5gfiq7p23vn9fktq6k059tfp3h1n@4ax.com...

Bleeding the clutch on the ranger is a TERRIBLE job. Finally figured
out a simple way to do it - should work on any hydraulic unit. I just
got a spare cap for the reservoir and drilled it for a 1/8" hose barb
fitting to connect the mity-vac and pulled 20 inches of vacuum and let
it sit for 10 minutes. Released the vacuum and repeated then let it
sit half an hour or so under vacuum and VOILA!!! perfect pedal, and
full release

----------------------------

Hopefully I won't ever need to, but thanks anyway. That's the sort of
problem for which I lathe-turn fittings I can't buy. Square and hex 5C
collets help a lot, partly by not having dangerous jaws spinning next to
small delicate work.

On 5/16/2023 10:52 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Tue, 16 May 2023 06:46:22 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> On 5/15/2023 10:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
>>> When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
>>> to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
>>> $900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
>>> It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
>>> because the clown didn't lube the spline. I fixed that last year when
>>> I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
>>> replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
>>> ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
>>> (New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
>>> Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
>>> tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
>>> main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
>>> shifter and console tomorrow.
>>> 10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
>>> Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
>>> time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
>>>
>>> I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
>>>
>>
>> Expensive shops that don't do the work properly are the reason I do
>> all my own work . The sole exception is automatic transmissions . Those
>> I pull and take to the shop . I'm just a few months older than you , I
>> hear you about sometimes living on (OTC) pain killers .
>
> Bleeding the clutch on the ranger is a TERRIBLE job. Finally figured
> out a simple way to do it - should work on any hydraulic unit. I just
> got a spare cap for the reservoir and drilled it for a 1/8" hose barb
> fitting to connect the mity-vac and pulled 20 inches of vacuum and let
> it sit for 10 minutes. Released the vacuum and repeated then let it
> sit half an hour or so under vacuum and VOILA!!! perfect pedal, and
> full release
>

I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
--
Snag
"You can lead a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

<snip>
> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .

You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...

The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 5/15/2023 8:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -

The day before yesterday I pulled the carburetor off the emergency
generator for a older buddy of mine. He is seeing the same thing.
Getting up and down even is an issue, and he recently had surgery.
I sat on the ground to pull it off, because it was just easier. I'm
getting there too.

> When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
> to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
> $900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
> It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
> because the clown didn't lube the spline.

Maybe, or maybe didn't actually replace the pressure plate.

I fixed that last year when
> I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
> replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
> ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
> (New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
> Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
> tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
> main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
> shifter and console tomorrow.
> 10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
> Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
> time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -

Oh Dang-It!
>
> I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>
> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>
> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>

I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
--
Snag
"You can lead a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u42tbo$3tng7$1@dont-email.me...

The day before yesterday I pulled the carburetor off the emergency
generator for a older buddy of mine. He is seeing the same thing.
Getting up and down even is an issue, and he recently had surgery.
I sat on the ground to pull it off, because it was just easier. I'm
getting there too.

----------------------

I store my ratty $10-at-auction platform stacker in a dirt-level extension
of my tool shed. It has larger and wider stainless steel (ex-pipe) wheels
because the area floods, and a 1/2T lever chain hoist to replace the broken
lift cylinder. It's perfect for raising outdoor power equipment including
snow blowers and my garden tractor to a good standing work height. The
upright frame does restrict the size it can hold and access to one side, but
provides a solid attachment to restrain wheeled things from rolling off.
Since the lift mechanism isn't under the platform it lowers considerably
closer to the ground than a hydraulic scissor lift, a great help in muscling
heavy low slung equipment onto it. I use it as a welding positioner and the
extension table for the 4x6 bandsaw in both horizontal and vertical modes. A
chain sling around the platform turns it into a crane for loads with a
centered lifting eye.

At Segway I ordered a winch-operated Vestil platform stacker as a work
platform for heavy Segway bases, since I got in to sub for a tech who had
dislocated a shoulder lifting them. Other than the winch ratchet being loud
it served very well, and didn't risk an oil leak on the tile lab floor.
https://www.scnindustrial.com/product/vestil-platform-lift-stacker-hand-winch-operated-500-lbs-capacity-58-max-lift-llw-202058-fw-lu506

One might be useful to you for moving and positioning molds and motors, they
are meant to maneuver in tight spaces like between storage racks, and not
shift sideways when you slide something on or off the platform.
-jsw

On Wed, 17 May 2023 11:31:37 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

<snip>
> I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .

Good Buddy had a 1988 K20 with the 4-Speed Creeper/Rock Crusher. Needed
clutch work at maybe 100,000 miles and while it was apart he had the
flywheel ground. Because that's what you did while repairing old
clutches... It was never really usable after that. He fooled with
bleeding the clutch and then finally added a spacer plate as he'd been
clued in to. It was drivable then but not like it had been (He'd
bought it new). He finally converted it to an automatic...

I drove it snowplowing with the original clutch. It was okay but not
like the mechanical ones I'd used before. Think it was GM's way of
converting stick lovers to automatics ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
> On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> <snip>
>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>
>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>
>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>
>
>   I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
> mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
> mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .

I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
at one time or another.

I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
pretty brutal.

After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
again.

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On Wed, 17 May 2023 08:54:32 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

>On 5/15/2023 8:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
>
>The day before yesterday I pulled the carburetor off the emergency
>generator for a older buddy of mine. He is seeing the same thing.
>Getting up and down even is an issue, and he recently had surgery.
>I sat on the ground to pull it off, because it was just easier. I'm
>getting there too.
>
>
>
>
>> When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
>> to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
>> $900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
>> It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
>> because the clown didn't lube the spline.
>
>Maybe, or maybe didn't actually replace the pressure plate.
>
He replaced it - and the spline was drier than the proverbial fart in
a summer breeze,
>
>I fixed that last year when
>> I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
>> replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
>> ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
>> (New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
>> Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
>> tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
>> main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
>> shifter and console tomorrow.
>> 10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
>> Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
>> time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
>
>Oh Dang-It!
>>
>> I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
>
>--
>Bob La Londe
>Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>real machinist

On Wed, 17 May 2023 11:31:37 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

>On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> <snip>
>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>
>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>
>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>
>
> I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
I've seen the ball on the engine block side AND the pivot on the
frame wear out anf / or snap off - as well as the bell-crank arms bend
on old Chevies. The hydraulic clutch solved a lot of wear-point issues
at the expense of a few hydraulic issues. The concentric release cyl
solved ALL of the moving part wear issues but at the expense of
serviceability. Ford's problem (at least on the Ranger) was
positioning the master withe the push-rod end higher than the
inlet/outlet making a big bubble trap.

On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

>On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
>> On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>>
>>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>>
>>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>>
>>
>>   I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>> mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>> mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
>
>I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
>wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
>ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
>the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
>first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
>to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
>rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
>at one time or another.
>
>I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
>pretty brutal.
>
>After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
>through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
>halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
>engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
>again.
>
>
>--
>Bob La Londe
>Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>real machinist
The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
managed!!!

On 5/18/2023 7:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
> wrote:
>
>> On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
>>> On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>>>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <snip>
>>>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>>>
>>>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>>>
>>>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>>>
>>>
>>>   I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>>> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>>> mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>>> mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
>>
>> I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
>> wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
>> ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
>> the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
>> first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
>> to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
>> rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
>> at one time or another.
>>
>> I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
>> pretty brutal.
>>
>> After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
>> through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
>> halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
>> engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
>> again.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Bob La Londe
>> Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>> real machinist
> The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
> engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
> anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
> managed!!!

How about the Pinto Hatchback gas tank or the Pinto Station wagon starter?
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On Fri, 19 May 2023 15:10:30 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

>On 5/18/2023 7:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
>>>> On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>>>>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>>>>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>>>>
>>>>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>>>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>>>>
>>>>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>>>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>   I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>>>> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>>>> mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>>>> mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>>>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
>>>
>>> I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
>>> wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
>>> ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
>>> the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
>>> first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
>>> to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
>>> rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
>>> at one time or another.
>>>
>>> I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
>>> pretty brutal.
>>>
>>> After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
>>> through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
>>> halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
>>> engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
>>> again.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bob La Londe
>>> Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>>> real machinist
>> The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
>> engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
>> anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
>> managed!!!
>
>How about the Pinto Hatchback gas tank or the Pinto Station wagon starter?
>--
>Bob La Londe
>CNC Molds N Stuff
It wasn't a gastank problem - it was the bolts in the rear bumper
that punctured the tank. Many other vehicles had the tank installed in
EXACTLY the same manner and location - and what about the GM pickups
with the tank in the cab behind the seat?????
And how was the pinto station wagon starter different than the
starter on the coupe or hatch??

On 5/19/2023 7:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Fri, 19 May 2023 15:10:30 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
> wrote:
>
>> On 5/18/2023 7:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
>>>>> On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
>>>>>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>> I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
>>>>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
>>>>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
>>>>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
>>>>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
>>>>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>   I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
>>>>> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
>>>>> mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
>>>>> mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
>>>>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
>>>>
>>>> I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
>>>> wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
>>>> ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
>>>> the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
>>>> first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
>>>> to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
>>>> rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
>>>> at one time or another.
>>>>
>>>> I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
>>>> pretty brutal.
>>>>
>>>> After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
>>>> through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
>>>> halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
>>>> engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
>>>> again.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Bob La Londe
>>>> Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
>>>> real machinist
>>> The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
>>> engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
>>> anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
>>> managed!!!
>>
>> How about the Pinto Hatchback gas tank or the Pinto Station wagon starter?
>> --
>> Bob La Londe
>> CNC Molds N Stuff
> It wasn't a gastank problem - it was the bolts in the rear bumper
> that punctured the tank. Many other vehicles had the tank installed in
> EXACTLY the same manner and location - and what about the GM pickups
> with the tank in the cab behind the seat?????
> And how was the pinto station wagon starter different than the
> starter on the coupe or hatch??

You had to remove the motor mount to change the starter.

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist

--
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