What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?

I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door
opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working. It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.

I replaced the two CR2025 batteries but it doesn't open the door. The single red LED flashes once with the left button held down, stays red
with the middle button held down, and flashes once with the right button. The middle button was the one that I was using on the hand-held clicker.

The garage door opener has a sticker on the outside saying Stanley Deluxe
1/2 HP, model 3205, 120V, 60Hz, single phase, 7.0 Amp, 1/2 HP motor, add
load 202VA, operating rate 25 ft lb/sec.

There are three things sticking out the bottom, one of which is a short six
inches or so antenna, and another is a one-inch diameter black adjustment
knob of some sort, and then two 3/8ths inch additional adjustment knobs, one
black and the other white (I've never touched them).

Climbing on a ladder & removing that yellow cover reveals a red 10-pin
static dip switch whose circuit board has a sticker that says Stanley FCC ID
A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845.

The garage door opener works fine from the wall switch.
I was given this garage door opener clicker when I bought the house years
ago so it wasn't me who set it up in the first place.

Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be? I just want the clicker to work again.

In article <t481ng$4n1$1@dont-email.me>, G6JPG@255soft.uk says...

What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?

I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door
opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working.
It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.

I replaced the two CR2025 batteries but it doesn't open the door.

The single red LED flashes once with the left button held down, stays red
with the middle button held down, and flashes once with the right button.

The middle button was the one that I was using on the hand-held clicker.

The garage door opener has a sticker on the outside saying Stanley Deluxe
1/2 HP, model 3205, 120V, 60Hz, single phase, 7.0 Amp, 1/2 HP motor, add
load 202VA, operating rate 25 ft lb/sec.

There are three things sticking out the bottom, one of which is a short six
inches or so antenna, and another is a one-inch diameter black adjustment
knob of some sort, and then two 3/8ths inch additional adjustment knobs, one
black and the other white (I've never touched them).

Climbing on a ladder & removing that yellow cover reveals a red 10-pin
static dip switch whose circuit board has a sticker that says Stanley FCC ID
A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845.

The garage door opener works fine from the wall switch.
I was given this garage door opener clicker when I bought the house years
ago so it wasn't me who set it up in the first place.

Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?

I just want the clicker to work again.

What, if anything, have you Googled?

On 26/04/2022 06:59, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?

I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door
opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working. It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.

Is that legal in the UK?

Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?
I just want the clicker to work again.

google the words "MJN321 manual"

--
Adrian C

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 06:59:29 +0100, "J. P. Gilliver (John)"
<G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote:

What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?

I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door
opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working.
It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.

I replaced the two CR2025 batteries but it doesn't open the door.

The single red LED flashes once with the left button held down, stays red
with the middle button held down, and flashes once with the right button.

The middle button was the one that I was using on the hand-held clicker.

The garage door opener has a sticker on the outside saying Stanley Deluxe
1/2 HP, model 3205, 120V, 60Hz, single phase, 7.0 Amp, 1/2 HP motor, add
load 202VA, operating rate 25 ft lb/sec.

There are three things sticking out the bottom, one of which is a short six
inches or so antenna, and another is a one-inch diameter black adjustment
knob of some sort, and then two 3/8ths inch additional adjustment knobs, one
black and the other white (I've never touched them).

Climbing on a ladder & removing that yellow cover reveals a red 10-pin
static dip switch whose circuit board has a sticker that says Stanley FCC ID
A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845.

The garage door opener works fine from the wall switch.
I was given this garage door opener clicker when I bought the house years
ago so it wasn't me who set it up in the first place.

Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?

I just want the clicker to work again.

If you've changed the lighting source near or on the door
opener, this can prevent operation. Older mechanisms
may not function if fluorescent lamps are substituted
for previous incandescent. LED subs are probably OK.

RL

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 09:55:50, Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:
(my responses usually follow points raised):

I just want the clicker to work again.

What, if anything, have you Googled?

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=Clicker+FCC+ID+MJN321+reset&ia=web
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=clicker+garage+door+opener+reset&t=ffab&ia=web

Examples are
https://yourgaragedoorguys.com/how-to-reset-clicker-garage-door-keypad-without-code/
https://www.thefreemanonline.org/how-to-reset-clicker-garage-door-keypad/
https://tucsongaragedoorcompany.com/how-to-reset-clicker-garage-door-remote/
https://iranian.ws/clicker-garage-door-keypad-reset-instructions/

The solution wasn't in any of those (for example, there is no learn button).

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 13:55:07, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):

If you've changed the lighting source near or on the door opener, this can prevent operation. Older mechanisms may not function if fluorescent lamps are substituted for previous incandescent. LED subs are probably OK.

When I saw this I finally realized it was two concurrent things, and that
was one of them only. There's a loud buzzing fluorescent light with four bulbs and two 8inx4in
ballasts which recently started to buzz. The training procedure was also reversed.

When I did either one of those fixes, nothing happened. But when I did both (turn off the light & reverse the sequence), it worked!

Thank you for your kind help.
The training procedure is here.

Clicker: FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz
         MJN is the company. The 321 depends on the company.
         https://www.manualslib.com/manual/877268/Clicker-321.html
Opener:  Stanley Deluxe 1/2 HP, model 3205
Board:   Stanley FCC ID A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845
         A9K is the company. The 9KG depends on the company.

How does a ballast buzz?
Does it have moving parts?

Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?
If I can hear the buzz, it must be higher than 200Hz (or maybe even more given my old ears so I'll double that without knowing the frequency). Assuming the buzz is 400 hertz, what's in a fluorescent light at 400 Hz?
Is there a frequency meter we can put on a phone to test the frequency?

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 11:33:16, Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid> wrote:
(my responses usually follow points raised):

google the words "MJN321 manual"

Finding the manual wasn't the problem because the hangup turned out to be
two things that aren't in the manual and both were necessary.

The manual is here if you need it though.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/877268/Clicker-321.html

1 Stanley Locate your systems code switch positions from an original hand held remote
or the motor unit receiver.

If the switch is "on" or "up", place a 1 in the corresponding box in the
TABLE below. If the switch is "off" or "down",place a 3 in the corresponding box in the
TABLE below.

CODE SWITCH SEQUENCE 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10
ON/UP                0   0   0   0   0   1   1   1   1   1
OFF/DOWN             3   3   3   3   3   0   0   0   0   0

Clicker switch left button is S1, middle button is S2, right button is S3
oriented with the keychain opening toward you and wth the three buttons the furthest away from you facing up so that the one red led light can be
seen.

PROGRAMMING
Before you begin programming the Clicker, select which button you want to
operate your garage door opener. After completing a step, you have 15
seconds to proceed to the next step.

Step 1: Press the 1st and 3rd buttons down simultaneously and hold until the red
indicator starts to blink. Release both buttons. Wait for the red indicator to stop blinking.

Step 2: Press the button you want to operate your garage door opener: Stanley press
the button 1 time; Multi-Code press the button 2 times. Wait for the red indicator to blink the same number of times.

Step 3: Using the code switch sequence from the table above, press and release the
button that corresponds with the number in each column until the entire code
has been entered into the Clicker. Immediately after the code is entered, the indicator light will blink (once
for Stanley; twice for Multi-Code).

Programming is complete. To test press the button you selected to activate the garage door.

If programming is unsuccessful, reverse code from TABLE above.
(Change 1 to 3; 3 to 1) Stanley brands - try as Multi-Code.
Multi-Code brands - try as Stanley Repeat Steps 1-3 above.

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

How does a ballast buzz?

Loose laminations

Does it have moving parts?

only on a small scale (see above)

Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?

Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 17:48:25, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote: (my
responses usually follow points raised):

How does a ballast buzz?

Loose laminations

Must be that then. Maybe my ears are better than I thought.
I typed this procedure to tape on the top of the unit.

You observe the number side labeled 1 thru 10; not on side labeled OPEN.
The definition of "DOWN" is the position of height where a pen pushes it in.
If the pen pushed one side in, that side is DOWN; the other side is UP.
There is a hump which is the UP side; a shallow depression is the DOWN side.

Clicker switch left button is S1, middle button is S2, right button is S3
oriented with the keychain opening toward you and with the three buttons the furthest away from you facing up so that the red led light can be seen.

Simultaneously press & hold (and keep holding) S1 & S3 until the LED blinks and eventually stops blinking (in about 13 seconds when I did it).
Only when it stops do you let up on the button (contrary to instructions).
You have only fifteen seconds to initiate the next step.
Press and hold the desired S# button until LED blinks once (this took about 5 seconds when I did it).
At that blink, let up on the button (contrary to instructions).
You have only fifteen seconds to initiate the next step.
Press once each S1 or S3 button to enter the desired code in sequence.
For example: S3  S3  S3  S3  S3  S1  S1  S1  S1  S1
Immediately upon that final press the LED will blink once.
The desired button is now programmed.

In article <t498u7$jng$1@dont-email.me>, G6JPG@255soft.uk says...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 17:48:25, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote: (my
responses usually follow points raised):

How does a ballast buzz?

Loose laminations

Must be that then.
Maybe my ears are better than I thought.

Maybe it is generating harmonics, a bit like an insect stridulating.
"Buzz" does not indicate a pure tone. Plus the laminations will attract
each other on both half-cycles...

In <jcqm2rFqvvvU1@mid.individual.net> Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> writes:

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

How does a ballast buzz?

Loose laminations

Does it have moving parts?

only on a small scale (see above)

Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?

Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...

Actually, for reasons I'm not quite understanding,
that "60Hz" (or 50..) "hum" is usually, actually,
buzzing at _120_Hz (or 100).



--
_____________________________________________________
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
     dannyb@panix.com
[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

In article <t4a6gq$bvc$1@reader1.panix.com>, dannyb@panix.com says...

In <jcqm2rFqvvvU1@mid.individual.net> Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> writes:

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

How does a ballast buzz?

Loose laminations

Does it have moving parts?

only on a small scale (see above)

Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?

Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...

Actually, for reasons I'm not quite understanding,
that "60Hz" (or 50..) "hum" is usually, actually,
buzzing at _120_Hz (or 100).

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or
repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.

On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling effect.

Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential
for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?

On Wed, 27 Apr 2022 14:55:54 +0530, mike wrote:

On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or
repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.

Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential
for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?

Yes -- in time viewed over either minutes, days, years, or epochs.  :-)

Jonesy
--
  Marvin L Jones    | Marvin      | W3DHJ.net  | linux
   38.238N 104.547W |  @ jonz.net | Jonesy     |  FreeBSD
    * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 2:25:42 AM UTC-7, mike wrote:

On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gra...@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or
repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.

Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential
for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?

Yeah, very slowly; strain in the metal parts can accumulate and change the
magnetic properties of the laminations.   By 2322, you'll notice that difference...

In article <7ea095c3-e468-412e-9278-859269333998n@googlegroups.com>,
whit3rd@gmail.com says...

On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 2:25:42 AM UTC-7, mike wrote:

On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gra...@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or
repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.

Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential
for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?

Yeah, very slowly; strain in the metal parts can accumulate and change the
magnetic properties of the laminations.   By 2322, you'll notice that difference...

Invest a small amount to be held in trust for an experiment...