Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.

Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.

Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.

So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
Deacon Mark

On 4/11/2023 1:11 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
> Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
>
> Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
>
> Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
>
> So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> Deacon Mark
>

Congratulations on your victory.

Or as the sign in my friend's store says, "No one cares
about the storms. Did you bring in the ship?"

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
>
> Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task.. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
>
> Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
>
> So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> Deacon Mark
Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
> >
> > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> >
> > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> >
> > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > Deacon Mark
> Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.

How is that work? Rust? They are SS.

Lou

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable..
> > >
> > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > >
> > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > >
> > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > Deacon Mark
> > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> How is that work? Rust? They are SS.

Well, MOST of them are stainless steel of the non-rusting kind. Others are teflon covered steel. Still others are just plain steel. You and I use the best stainless available but we're not talking about lifespan but fraying that is caused by over-tightening the lock screws on the front and rear derailleur. There is definitely a learning curve on that tightening since all of the derailleurs from different companies are different.

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-5, Lou Holtman wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable..
> > >
> > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > >
> > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > >
> > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > Deacon Mark
> > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> How is that work? Rust? They are SS.
>
> Lou

Shimano is known for tearing up the gear cables at the shifter head. They finally in later editions made plate that can unscrew and remove the offending head that starts to fray. The olds ones at times would break off and you either had to drill a hole and remove the cable head or buy a new shifter. There was an internet video on the proceedure. But at least since I believe about 6600 serious you can get the cable head out with at plate removed.

Lou, I have had this happen probably 2-3 times because I wait too long. The constant shifter will wear the cable even if they are ss, then they start fraying and catching as you upshift. Generally you can downshift ok until the cable actually breaks neat the head in the shifter. The moral is to simply change the rear derailleur cable before it happens. I have in the past and a couple of times I took out a perfectly good cable, so naturally now I wait too long. The first minute you start getting any upshifting problems this is something to watch out for. In my case riding the very cold temps can cause shifters to be bit sluggish at first in the ride. As the shifting a grease move around, temps warm it all goes away. I have been riding in cold thinking this was the issue but now I know better.

I have found over the years that with mechanical shimano either 105 or Ultegra I can get sometimes years out of a front derailleur cable. However, the rear cable is good for about 3-5000 miles then things start going south. Another place that requires changes is the rear loop. The rear loop is critical for mechinical shifting. I have bought a bunch of Shimano specialty rear loop housing sets. In my this morning I did not need to change the housing or anything I simply thread the new cable in all the way back and attached with a new rear loop. Shifts perfect now in the stand.

I am really impressed with the 6800 groupset mine has just been pretty flawless given the number of miles on it over 45,000. Just every once in a while it requires attention.
Deacon Mark

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 3:51:59 PM UTC-5, Tom Kunich wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
> > > >
> > > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > > >
> > > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > > >
> > > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > > Deacon Mark
> > > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> > How is that work? Rust? They are SS.
> Well, MOST of them are stainless steel of the non-rusting kind. Others are teflon covered steel. Still others are just plain steel. You and I use the best stainless available but we're not talking about lifespan but fraying that is caused by over-tightening the lock screws on the front and rear derailleur. There is definitely a learning curve on that tightening since all of the derailleurs from different companies are different.
Tom is frays in the head of the cable at shifter if you read post. Not at pinchbolt. See my earlier post on process.
Deacon Mark

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 4:02:01 PM UTC-5, Mark Cleary wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-5, Lou Holtman wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
> > > >
> > > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > > >
> > > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > > >
> > > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > > Deacon Mark
> > > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> > How is that work? Rust? They are SS.
> >
> > Lou
> Shimano is known for tearing up the gear cables at the shifter head. They finally in later editions made plate that can unscrew and remove the offending head that starts to fray. The olds ones at times would break off and you either had to drill a hole and remove the cable head or buy a new shifter. There was an internet video on the proceedure. But at least since I believe about 6600 serious you can get the cable head out with at plate removed..
>
> Lou, I have had this happen probably 2-3 times because I wait too long. The constant shifter will wear the cable even if they are ss, then they start fraying and catching as you upshift. Generally you can downshift ok until the cable actually breaks neat the head in the shifter. The moral is to simply change the rear derailleur cable before it happens. I have in the past and a couple of times I took out a perfectly good cable, so naturally now I wait too long. The first minute you start getting any upshifting problems this is something to watch out for. In my case riding the very cold temps can cause shifters to be bit sluggish at first in the ride. As the shifting a grease move around, temps warm it all goes away. I have been riding in cold thinking this was the issue but now I know better.
>
> I have found over the years that with mechanical shimano either 105 or Ultegra I can get sometimes years out of a front derailleur cable. However, the rear cable is good for about 3-5000 miles then things start going south. Another place that requires changes is the rear loop. The rear loop is critical for mechinical shifting. I have bought a bunch of Shimano specialty rear loop housing sets. In my this morning I did not need to change the housing or anything I simply thread the new cable in all the way back and attached with a new rear loop. Shifts perfect now in the stand.
>
> I am really impressed with the 6800 groupset mine has just been pretty flawless given the number of miles on it over 45,000. Just every once in a while it requires attention.
> Deacon Mark

Check this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KixRbKrucZU
Deacon Mark

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 2:03:25 PM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 3:51:59 PM UTC-5, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
> > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
> > > > >
> > > > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > > > >
> > > > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > > > >
> > > > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > > > Deacon Mark
> > > > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> > > How is that work? Rust? They are SS.
> > Well, MOST of them are stainless steel of the non-rusting kind. Others are teflon covered steel. Still others are just plain steel. You and I use the best stainless available but we're not talking about lifespan but fraying that is caused by over-tightening the lock screws on the front and rear derailleur. There is definitely a learning curve on that tightening since all of the derailleurs from different companies are different.
> Tom is frays in the head of the cable at shifter if you read post. Not at pinchbolt. See my earlier post on process.
> Deacon Mark

Mark, as I said before, Shimano has a longer pull ratio which makes cable stretch have less effect on the derailleurs. So I used Shimano for a long time - 6700, 6800 and 9000, I have never had the slightest problem with the Shimano breaking cables. I do tend to use assembly grease in all of the bends so perhaps that is why, Also, Campagnolo had some really nasty bends in the shift cables and I have never had the slightest problem with those at all except from overtightening the lock screw. And the front shift cable is pulled over the front derailleur spring which you would suppose cause problems. So, I don't know why you would have problems. There was NO problems with the 6700 because it didn't have any of those sharp bends in the cables but they changed that all for "aero" cabling.

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:03:25 PM UTC+2, Mark Cleary wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 3:51:59 PM UTC-5, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
> > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 9:56:46 PM UTC+2, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > > > On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Cleary wrote:
> > > > > Today at mile 15 I notice the rear shifting on my 6800 Shimano would not upshift smoothly and then the dreaded not going to cog 11. So at this point I figure the rear cable was frayed. Like a dumbass I should just change these out every few months but I keep think get the most out of the cable.
> > > > >
> > > > > Well I finished the ride was a great day 50 miler and had a nice sort of tailing wind coming in last 15 miles but could only get to cog 14. I did not want cable to break so nothing crazy. I get home and sure enough it is not like just changing your socks. I had to get cable into some position in shifter so I could pull out the cable. Then frayed as it was a bit of a task. In my old age seeing up close and getting good light is not easy.
> > > > >
> > > > > Then I get the new cable in and threading it in of course never goes in just smooth. You poke around and finally get it and pack it all in out to the anchor. naturally the anchor bolt falls off and getting that back on was just a challenge. Not enough light in basement and bike never in the exact right spot on the stand. Finally a few small squirts of WD40 in the shifter cable area where it enters the shifter for good measure.
> > > > >
> > > > > So now it is back to perfect shifting and Shimano seems to require you to be a tour mechanic to get the job done. It is sounds easy and straightforward but rarely works out that way. I win but a job that would take a shop mechanic 15 minutes, has me working 45. But it works.
> > > > > https://imgur.com/n9f50O7
> > > > > Deacon Mark
> > > > Mark, fraying and breaking of shift cables comes from overtightening them in the derailleur lock. Installed properly they will last until they rust through.
> > > How is that work? Rust? They are SS.
> > Well, MOST of them are stainless steel of the non-rusting kind. Others are teflon covered steel. Still others are just plain steel. You and I use the best stainless available but we're not talking about lifespan but fraying that is caused by over-tightening the lock screws on the front and rear derailleur. There is definitely a learning curve on that tightening since all of the derailleurs from different companies are different.
> Tom is frays in the head of the cable at shifter if you read post. Not at pinchbolt. See my earlier post on process.
> Deacon Mark

That was my question to Tom how does tightening the cable on the other end effect the fraying of the cable on the shifter side. Fraying here is definitely a fatigue issue. Friend of mine had the same problem. He changed the cable before every season. I always rode Campagnolo and never had any issues.. Changed the cable every two years. Now I ride Di2 and got rid of the cables. Install and adjust once and you are done. Like that. My Di2 equipped CX bike is 10 years old, ridden in the most crappy conditions and a brutal cleaning regime and still going strong. I am really impressed by the Di2 system. Still have a bike with mechanical shifting but if I would buy a new bike it will be Di2 again. YMMV.

Lou