I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.

It will be there about 90 days.

Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?

Thanks.

AK <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>
> It will be there about 90 days.
>
> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>
> Thanks.
>
I’d assume be fine, my bikes live in a shed in damp UK and the MTB isn’t
used that often as well it needs train or car to the trails, vs the Gravel
bike.

But as long as the bike is oiled and clean should be fine.

Roger Merriman

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:39:19 AM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
> AK <scienti...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> >
> > It will be there about 90 days.
> >
> > Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> I’d assume be fine, my bikes live in a shed in damp UK and the MTB isn’t
> used that often as well it needs train or car to the trails, vs the Gravel
> bike.
>
> But as long as the bike is oiled and clean should be fine.
>
> Roger Merriman

Heavier than normal chain oil would probably help the chain if your climate is wet and/or humid. In the bay area I wax my chain. While I don't know if this actually helps prevent rust it certainly keeps the cassette clean.

On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>
> It will be there about 90 days.
>
> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?

Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.

I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.

I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
sufficient for you.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>
>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>
>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>
> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
>
> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
>
> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
> sufficient for you.
>
Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.

Roger Merriman

Tom Kunich <cyclintom@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:39:19 AM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
>> AK <scienti...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>>
>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>>
>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>> I’d assume be fine, my bikes live in a shed in damp UK and the MTB isn’t
>> used that often as well it needs train or car to the trails, vs the Gravel
>> bike.
>>
>> But as long as the bike is oiled and clean should be fine.
>>
>> Roger Merriman
>
> Heavier than normal chain oil would probably help the chain if your
> climate is wet and/or humid. In the bay area I wax my chain. While I
> don't know if this actually helps prevent rust it certainly keeps the cassette clean.
>
I wash oil after use in winter, the MTB due to much wetter conditions of
where it’s ridden I use wet lubricants as well the wax etc stuff can’t cope
with this.

The gravel and commute bike I use the wax based “squirt” all year around
though use more during winter, the gravel bike I clean re apply, the
commute bike I generally just re apply but it doesn’t get so wet.

So in short I do!

Roger Merriman

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:12:20 AM UTC-4, AK wrote:
> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>
> It will be there about 90 days.
>
> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>
> Thanks.
Just give it a good cleaning and lube before storing it, it will be fine

On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

>I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>It will be there about 90 days.
>Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?

Yep.
<https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-Preventive-Bicycle-Storage-Closure/dp/B00D0Y9F72>

Or, you can do it thyself. Find a large plastic bag that completely
encloses your bicycle. Something like vacuum bags:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+bags&tbm=isch>
or make your own from plastic trash bags and tape.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=100+gallon+garbage+bags>
<https://www.amazon.com/PlasticMill-Gallon-Black-Garbage-Liners/dp/B010U6QRDM>
The 100 gallon bags are 67 x 79 inches (170 x 200 cm). I just checked
and the bag will easily fit both my bicycles. Since you're not
transporting the bicycle anywhere, durability is not a requirement.

You may need to temporarily detach the handlebars from the stem,
detach the front wheel, and remove the pedals to convince the bicycle
to fit in a smaller bag. Seal the opening so that no air goes in (or
out) of the bag. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much air from
the bag as practical. Plug the opening. The idea is to prevent
condensing water from the air (humidity) onto the bicycle as the
temperature transitions through the dew point.

Optional: Desiccant bags or dry rice will help trap any moisture that
might sneak inside:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=desiccant+bags>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 4/30/2023 1:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
> <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>> It will be there about 90 days.
>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>
> Yep.
> <https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-Preventive-Bicycle-Storage-Closure/dp/B00D0Y9F72>
>
> Or, you can do it thyself. Find a large plastic bag that completely
> encloses your bicycle. Something like vacuum bags:
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+bags&tbm=isch>
> or make your own from plastic trash bags and tape.
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=100+gallon+garbage+bags>
> <https://www.amazon.com/PlasticMill-Gallon-Black-Garbage-Liners/dp/B010U6QRDM>
> The 100 gallon bags are 67 x 79 inches (170 x 200 cm). I just checked
> and the bag will easily fit both my bicycles. Since you're not
> transporting the bicycle anywhere, durability is not a requirement.
>
> You may need to temporarily detach the handlebars from the stem,
> detach the front wheel, and remove the pedals to convince the bicycle
> to fit in a smaller bag. Seal the opening so that no air goes in (or
> out) of the bag. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much air from
> the bag as practical. Plug the opening. The idea is to prevent
> condensing water from the air (humidity) onto the bicycle as the
> temperature transitions through the dew point.
>
> Optional: Desiccant bags or dry rice will help trap any moisture that
> might sneak inside:
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=desiccant+bags>
>
>
>
>

If it's well sealed you're right.
Peugeot used to ship new bikes that way:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/pg21a.jpg

In my area, marinas park, wrap and seal boats over winter.

Otherwise, like a tarp, moisture collects underneath the
plastic.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 11:26:46 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
> On 4/30/2023 1:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> > On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
> > <scienti...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> >> It will be there about 90 days.
> >> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> >
> > Yep.
> > <https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-Preventive-Bicycle-Storage-Closure/dp/B00D0Y9F72>
> >
> > Or, you can do it thyself. Find a large plastic bag that completely
> > encloses your bicycle. Something like vacuum bags:
> > <https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+bags&tbm=isch>
> > or make your own from plastic trash bags and tape.
> > <https://www.google.com/search?q=100+gallon+garbage+bags>
> > <https://www.amazon.com/PlasticMill-Gallon-Black-Garbage-Liners/dp/B010U6QRDM>
> > The 100 gallon bags are 67 x 79 inches (170 x 200 cm). I just checked
> > and the bag will easily fit both my bicycles. Since you're not
> > transporting the bicycle anywhere, durability is not a requirement.
> >
> > You may need to temporarily detach the handlebars from the stem,
> > detach the front wheel, and remove the pedals to convince the bicycle
> > to fit in a smaller bag. Seal the opening so that no air goes in (or
> > out) of the bag. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much air from
> > the bag as practical. Plug the opening. The idea is to prevent
> > condensing water from the air (humidity) onto the bicycle as the
> > temperature transitions through the dew point.
> >
> > Optional: Desiccant bags or dry rice will help trap any moisture that
> > might sneak inside:
> > <https://www.google.com/search?q=desiccant+bags>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> If it's well sealed you're right.
> Peugeot used to ship new bikes that way:
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/pg21a.jpg
>
> In my area, marinas park, wrap and seal boats over winter.
>
> Otherwise, like a tarp, moisture collects underneath the
> plastic.

I once found a Peugeot wrapped inside of a plastic bag somewhat like that and when you pushed on the tubes they collapse having rusted from the inside out.

On 4/30/2023 2:26 PM, AMuzi wrote:
> On 4/30/2023 1:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
>> <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled
>>> storage space.
>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>
>> Yep.
>> <https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-Preventive-Bicycle-Storage-Closure/dp/B00D0Y9F72>
>>
>> Or, you can do it thyself.  Find a large plastic bag that completely
>> encloses your bicycle.  Something like vacuum bags:
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+bags&tbm=isch>
>> or make your own from plastic trash bags and tape.
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=100+gallon+garbage+bags>
>> <https://www.amazon.com/PlasticMill-Gallon-Black-Garbage-Liners/dp/B010U6QRDM>
>> The 100 gallon bags are 67 x 79 inches (170 x 200 cm).  I just checked
>> and the bag will easily fit both my bicycles.  Since you're not
>> transporting the bicycle anywhere, durability is not a requirement.
>>
>> You may need to temporarily detach the handlebars from the stem,
>> detach the front wheel, and remove the pedals to convince the bicycle
>> to fit in a smaller bag.  Seal the opening so that no air goes in (or
>> out) of the bag.  Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much air from
>> the bag as practical.  Plug the opening.  The idea is to prevent
>> condensing water from the air (humidity) onto the bicycle as the
>> temperature transitions through the dew point.
>>
>> Optional:  Desiccant bags or dry rice will help trap any moisture that
>> might sneak inside:
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=desiccant+bags>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> If it's well sealed you're right.
> Peugeot used to ship new bikes that way:
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/pg21a.jpg
>
> In my area, marinas park, wrap and seal boats over winter.
>
> Otherwise, like a tarp, moisture collects underneath the plastic.

I am concerned about winter condensation on the motorcycle I mentioned
earlier. The extra steps I take are intended to address that. The
motorcycle is covered with fabric (old sheets) and under the battery of
the bike I have a 7 Watt night light bulb burning all winter. My intent
is to keep the bike slightly warmer than ambient to as to retard
condensation. The battery is also on a battery tender (sort of a trickle
charger) which I assume also puts a little heat in there.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
> Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>>
>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>>
>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>
>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
>>
>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
>>
>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
>> sufficient for you.
>>
> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.

It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
fasteners.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 13:26:18 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

>On 4/30/2023 1:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
>> <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>
>> Yep.
>> <https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-Preventive-Bicycle-Storage-Closure/dp/B00D0Y9F72>
>>
>> Or, you can do it thyself. Find a large plastic bag that completely
>> encloses your bicycle. Something like vacuum bags:
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+bags&tbm=isch>
>> or make your own from plastic trash bags and tape.
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=100+gallon+garbage+bags>
>> <https://www.amazon.com/PlasticMill-Gallon-Black-Garbage-Liners/dp/B010U6QRDM>
>> The 100 gallon bags are 67 x 79 inches (170 x 200 cm). I just checked
>> and the bag will easily fit both my bicycles. Since you're not
>> transporting the bicycle anywhere, durability is not a requirement.
>>
>> You may need to temporarily detach the handlebars from the stem,
>> detach the front wheel, and remove the pedals to convince the bicycle
>> to fit in a smaller bag. Seal the opening so that no air goes in (or
>> out) of the bag. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much air from
>> the bag as practical. Plug the opening. The idea is to prevent
>> condensing water from the air (humidity) onto the bicycle as the
>> temperature transitions through the dew point.
>>
>> Optional: Desiccant bags or dry rice will help trap any moisture that
>> might sneak inside:
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=desiccant+bags>

>If it's well sealed you're right.
>Peugeot used to ship new bikes that way:
>http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/pg21a.jpg
>
>In my area, marinas park, wrap and seal boats over winter.
>
>Otherwise, like a tarp, moisture collects underneath the
>plastic.

Reminder. Much of my engineering career was in marine radio, where
corrosion is a major concern.

One of the minor problems I had to deal with was bench testing the
radios in an environmental test chamber. This looks like the right
size but with an older model controller:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/364091813177>
The temperature range varied by customer requirements, but the worst
was -40C to +75C. Most of the consumer radios were much less. When
we ran the chamber from something below the dew point to room
temperature, water would condense out of the air and soak the radio.
The consumer radios were not rated for water immersion. The testing
had to stopped while the radio was warmed up and the water evaporated.

So, I was tasked with speeding up the test cycle and eliminating the
condensation problem. A plastic bag was the obvious easy solution.
Along the way, I learned to purge the plastic bag with nitrogen or dry
air. Some desiccants were not formulated to be re-usable by heating.
After being used a few times, all the bags I tested leaked. So, I
used multiple bags. I had to install a one way valve on the vacuum
cleaner to prevent back flow when it was powered off. When the indoor
humidity was higher than about 90%, we stopped testing. Etc. So much
for the simple solution.

For protecting a bicycle, none of the aforementioned is important (but
is interesting). The bag over the bicycle is not going to be a tight
fit and will likely have many air pockets. The amount of water vapor
trapped in these pockets is very small:
<https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/maximum-moisture-content-air-d_1403.html>
I think these air pockets can be ignored. If you're worried, some
desiccant will help. No need for a dry air or nitrogen purge.

What is important is to not have any holes in the plastic bag. If
there are holes, and the bag "breathes" every time the temperature
cycles, it's going to pump moist air into the bag. A one-way valve on
the bags exhaust port will help, but is difficult to seal and probably
not worth the effort.

During winter, I don't heat the downstairs rooms of my house, which is
where my bicycles, electronic lab, and junk collection lives. The
bicycles and electronics have been there for about 35 years. When it
rains, humidity near 100%.
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Drizzle.jpg>
I did find some corrosion on various steel bicycle parts, but nothing
serious. The aluminum parts were mostly untouched. The only problem
was with porous bar tape over aluminum handlebars. I suspect I had
some salty sweat trapped in the tape, which what did the damage.
Although not related to humidity, I had several plastic bottles and
parts crumble over the 35 years.

Who said that a background in marine radio wasn't applicable to
cycling?
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/#img=water%20bottle%20fail.jpg>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
>> Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
>>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>>>
>>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>>>
>>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>>
>>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
>>>
>>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
>>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
>>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
>>>
>>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
>>> sufficient for you.
>>>
>> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
>> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.
>
> It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
> fasteners.
>
That’s a Meh from me!

Roger Merriman

On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 14:43:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>I am concerned about winter condensation on the motorcycle I mentioned
>earlier. The extra steps I take are intended to address that. The
>motorcycle is covered with fabric (old sheets) and under the battery of
>the bike I have a 7 Watt night light bulb burning all winter. My intent
>is to keep the bike slightly warmer than ambient to as to retard
>condensation. The battery is also on a battery tender (sort of a trickle
>charger) which I assume also puts a little heat in there.

I made the same mistake twice. I had cloth covers for both my wood
pile and my emergency generator. The problem was that the cloth cover
acted like a sponge and trapped the water in the weave. While the
wood was fairly dry when covered the pile in fall, much of the wood
was wet when I tried to burn it. I have several wood moisture meters
that I use to determine if my firewood is ready to burn. The meter
said the cloth cover was soaked. Same with the generator. It was
covered, but was rusting.

So, I switched to plastic tarps, and made a different mistake again
twice. No matter what you do, water is going to condense on the
underside of the tarp. A heat source (lamp) allegedly helps, but I
found that it would evaporate the condensed water near the lamp, and
deposit the water nearby, where the plastic tarp was colder.

The mistake I made was to put the tarps flat (horizontally) over the
wood piles and generator. The weight of the tarp would cause it to
form a conical depression in the cover. Water would flow to the
center of the cone and drip onto generator. The wood pile had
multiple conical depressions for all the weights I installed on the
cover to keep it from blowing away.

The obvious solution was to put a slope on the tarp so that water
would flow away from the center and towards the sides of the cover. It
looked something like a camping tent. There was no way that I was
going to stop water condensation, but I could redirect it to where it
will do the least damage. For the generator, I made a wood and wire
frame to simulate a camping tent. For the wood pile(s), either a long
rope down the center or various lengths of pipe down the center.

Therefore, I suggest you replace the fabric sheets with plastic
sheeting and install some kind of support structure underneath to
redirect any condensed water to the sides.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:01:59 PM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
> >> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
> >>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> >>>>
> >>>> It will be there about 90 days.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> >>>
> >>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
> >>>
> >>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
> >>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
> >>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
> >>>
> >>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
> >>> sufficient for you.
> >>>
> >> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
> >> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.
> >
> > It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
> > fasteners.
> >
> That’s a Meh from me!

I was rather shocked at the WD40 comment. That is a penetrating oil that is meant to allow you to penetrate crevices like nuts and rusted bolts in order to remove them. Not that I've ever had particularly good luck with it and use Triflow instead.

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 3:23:02 PM UTC-5, Tom Kunich wrote:
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:01:59 PM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
> > Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > > On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
> > >> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > >>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
> > >>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> It will be there about 90 days.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> > >>>
> > >>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
> > >>>
> > >>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
> > >>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
> > >>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
> > >>>
> > >>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
> > >>> sufficient for you.
> > >>>
> > >> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
> > >> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.
> > >
> > > It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
> > > fasteners.
> > >
> > That’s a Meh from me!
> I was rather shocked at the WD40 comment. That is a penetrating oil that is meant to allow you to penetrate crevices like nuts and rusted bolts in order to remove them. Not that I've ever had particularly good luck with it and use Triflow instead.

Thanks for all the good ideas. :-)

I cleaned my chain and gears using a diluted Simple Green solution.

I used what I normally use which is WD-40 Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE spray.

I have found that wet chain lubricants attract a lot of dust and dirt particles.

Andy

Tom Kunich <cyclintom@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:01:59 PM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
>> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>> On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
>>>> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
>>>>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It will be there about 90 days.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>>>>>
>>>>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
>>>>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
>>>>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
>>>>>
>>>>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
>>>>> sufficient for you.
>>>>>
>>>> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
>>>> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp.
>>>
>>> It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
>>> fasteners.
>>>
>> That’s a Meh from me!
>
> I was rather shocked at the WD40 comment. That is a penetrating oil that
> is meant to allow you to penetrate crevices like nuts and rusted bolts in
> order to remove them. Not that I've ever had particularly good luck with
> it and use Triflow instead.
>
Can be very effective not sure it’s any better than others, time helps as
well, if one has the patience to liberally spray offending non moving
objects, and wait quite a while, ie more than simply a cup of tea. It can
be very good at allowing stuff to move.

It is unfortunately stuff that disk’s in particular hate rims aren’t much
better but disks seem to catch more stuff. Hence I don’t use any near the
bikes.

Roger Merriman

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 2:12:24 PM UTC-7, AK wrote:
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 3:23:02 PM UTC-5, Tom Kunich wrote:
> > On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:01:59 PM UTC-7, Roger Meriman wrote:
> > > Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > > > On 4/30/2023 11:44 AM, Roger Meriman wrote:
> > > >> Frank Krygowski <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > > >>> On 4/30/2023 9:12 AM, AK wrote:
> > > >>>> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> It will be there about 90 days.
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Supposedly, WD-40 was originally developed for that sort of use.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I've got an antique motorcycle that spends the winter in an unheated
> > > >>> garage. I give the metal bits a light coating of WD-40 when I put it up
> > > >>> for the winter. After 30+ years of that, it's still looking pretty good.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I actually take some other measures as well, but I think WD-40 would be
> > > >>> sufficient for you.
> > > >>>
> > > >> Bikes even with electrical bits are fairly mechanically simple and if in
> > > >> good condition don’t degrade in storage even if a bit damp..
> > > >
> > > > It's just cosmetic, but I worry about rust on any steel parts, even
> > > > fasteners.
> > > >
> > > That’s a Meh from me!
> > I was rather shocked at the WD40 comment. That is a penetrating oil that is meant to allow you to penetrate crevices like nuts and rusted bolts in order to remove them. Not that I've ever had particularly good luck with it and use Triflow instead.
> Thanks for all the good ideas. :-)
>
> I cleaned my chain and gears using a diluted Simple Green solution.
>
> I used what I normally use which is WD-40 Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE spray.
>
> I have found that wet chain lubricants attract a lot of dust and dirt particles.

So they are expanding their business. The only WD40 products I have are a penetrating oil. I didn't even know they made PTFE which is Teflon - a very long chain inorganic substance. It CAN be made into sheets so as a spray I suppose it would be pretty good at protecting from rust.

On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 14:28:34 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
<cyclintom@gmail.com> wrote:

>So they are expanding their business.

Yep. WD-40 is now a brand name and not so much a specific product
(except for the original WD-40 water displacement product):
<https://www.wd40.com>
<https://online.flippingbook.com/view/164409/20/>

>The only WD40 products I have are a penetrating oil. I didn't even know
>they made PTFE which is Teflon - a very long chain inorganic substance.
>It CAN be made into sheets so as a spray I suppose it would be pretty
>good at protecting from rust.

<https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil/>
There is no PTFE/Teflon on the list of ingredients for the WD-40 brand
penetrating oil:
<https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/specialist/wd-40-specialist-rust-release-penetrant-spray-us-ghs.pdf>
<https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1595966284-wd-40-specialist-penetrant-tds-sheet.pdf>
Looks like it's:
LVP Petroleum solvent 64742-47-8 50-70%
Petroleum solvent 64742-47-8 20-40%
Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9 2-3%
but no PTFE. 24% VoC (volatile organic compounds) so it's legal in
California.

The only product I could find that has PTFE was their dry lube:
<https://www.wd40.com/products/dry-lube/>

Maybe you should consider reading the label or data sheet before
posting more wrong information?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Am Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:12:18 -0700 (PDT) schrieb AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com>:

>I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.

What is a "non-climate controlled storage space"? No room in our house
is climate controlled, but a few of our bicycles survived decades
without special preparations. It goes without saying that cleaning the
bike after winter is essential. Especially salt has to be removed by
lots of water. Our roads have been salted heavily in the past. For some
reason unknown to me, we've got mandatory winter tires for cars in
Germany, a while ago, plus a renaissance of heavy salting, all while
ambient temperatures are rising.

--
Wir danken für die Beachtung aller Sicherheitsbestimmungen

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 3:12:20 PM UTC+2, AK wrote:
> I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
>
> It will be there about 90 days.
>
> Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
>
> Thanks.

Mmmm… I think nothing can rust or corrode on my bikes. The valve stems maybe or the steel part of the outer cables of my non Di2, non hydraulic disk brake bike.

Lou

Lou

On Monday, May 1, 2023 at 9:33:21 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 3:12:20 PM UTC+2, AK wrote:
> > I will be putting my mountain bike into a non-climate controlled storage space.
> >
> > It will be there about 90 days.
> >
> > Is there anything I can do to minimize rust and corrosion?
> >
> > Thanks.
> Mmmm… I think nothing can rust or corrode on my bikes. The valve stems maybe or the steel part of the outer cables of my non Di2, non hydraulic disk brake bike.
>
> Lou
>
> Lou

Well, it is pretty well hidden if you're getting electrolytic corrosion between your aluminum sleeve in your bottom bracket and the surrounding carbon fiber. But that is probably very gradual and is protected from excess humidity by the material itself. For carbon fiber I would be much more concerned with the predictable degradation of the resin carrier. Over-the-counter bikes tend to be overbuilt and so last on the far end of the predictions (7 years or so) while performance bikes built to the lowest weights are in the close end - 5 years. And this is NOT the age of the bike but time from the layup. I think that it is probably best that you don't think of a high quality CF bike as a lifetime purchase.

Andrew says that any material can fail and indeed it can. But there's a major difference between a failure as metal does and a catastrophic failure as composites do.

This morning I had to go down to the blood lab to get testing done to see why I have slowed up so much. Getting down there at the very break of day reminded me of riding my bike to the lab in the cold and with trucks roaring by in the dark. I'm glad those days are behind me and I drive very carefully so as not to give the DMV a reason to pull my license again. I do not wish such injuries on anyone.

On 5/1/2023 12:50 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
>
> Andrew says that any material can fail and indeed it can. But there's a major difference between a failure as metal does and a catastrophic failure as composites do.

I'm not interested in saving weight with carbon fiber, but:

When both front forks snapped off our custom tandem, it seemed pretty
catastrophic. Reynolds 531 steel fork blades.

(The builder used the wrong gauge forks, substituting track gauge for
tandem gauge. One third the proper wall thickness.)

Others have documented broken cranks, broken frames, etc. all of various
metals.

--
- Frank Krygowski