On 29/11/2023 4:21 pm, Daryl wrote:

>
> Possibly because they were front well drive and the main competition
> Commodore and Falcon were rear wheel drive.
> Could also be that Mitsubishi was considered to be a lesser brand than
> say Toyota or other Jap brands, the Camry was also a strong competitor
> to the Magna.
>
> Everything I have had to do with them showed them as bloody good cars!.

They were good cars. They even looked good compared to the opposition.
It was likely a *brand recognition* issue. Maybe some of the earlier
models tarnished the image.
>
> Brother in law was certainly happy with his.
>
>>        SAme sort of thing with The RX4 we bought.. sat at a local car
>> yard for over 3 mths, (It was traded) The whisper was *dont touch a
>> rotary* Chinese whispers!.. Sure proved 'em wrong on the Mazda.
>
>
> Yes and no, they weren't without their problems, you had to know how to
> treat them if you wanted to avoid having apex seals replaced frequently.
> They also were know for using a lot of fuel.
> They were also different and for many people that was enough to stop
> them wanting one.

People will buy "different" but it is usually a slow take-up. One or two
serious issues - like rotor tip seals - get big publicity and sales will
plummet. They used to burn a fair bit of oil too - by design - and, in
an era where a piston engine's oil levels barely moved between services,
that was a distinct negative - and likely a carry over from the piston
engine era.

What really killed the rotary was its *piss poor thermal efficiency* and
many of the same design issues as two stroke engines. A look at the
combustion chambers is enough to tell some of the tale. Long with too
much surface area. Needs two spark plugs to initiate and keep the
combustion happening, the large surface are leads to premature flame
quenching and that, in turn, leads to lower thermal efficiency,
emissions and high fuel consumption. Surface to volume ratio is how it
is generally described. As well, it doesn't have poppet valves, gas flow
being controlled by ports. No variable port timing possible and, in the
case of the rotary, the design means the exhaust port opens too soon
while combustion hasn't fully completed. The reason it hasn't fully
completed is because of the poor combustion chamber design. That means
you aren't making full use of the gas expansion during the power stroke
because you're letting the pressure out too soon - so more poor thermal
efficiency. It's also one of the reasons why rotary exhausts run hotter
and louder than standard piston engines - there's still untapped energy
in those exhaust gases. On piston engines with poppet valves, the intake
valve timing can create an engine with a shorter intake stroke than the
power stroke - Atkinson/Miller Cycles. Can't do that in a rotary.

In a 4 cycle engine, each exhaust port has a short period of exhaust gas
flow by a long period of no flow - 25%:75%. That gives an opportunity
for cooling. No such luck with a rotary, each exhaust port has the flow
from 3 rotor chambers which means the ratio above is effectively
reversed and becomes more like 75%:25%. With the exhaust ports on one
side of the engine and the intake ports on the other, you run into
issues with unequal expansion of the rotor housings compared to the end
and intermediate housings during warmup. Go to full power before the
engine has properly warmed up and you risk warping housings and that's
bad because it stuffs up the housing O ring seals which will lead to
coolant loss, overheating, *more* warping and a complete engine rebuild.

So the rotary didn't have a snowflake's chance in hell in this
*emissions compliant era*. The fuel consumption is too high and post
combustion treatment of exhaust gases is too costly and the basic engine
design is flawed and cannot be changed.

Unfortunately Mazda was heavily committed financially to the rotary and
didn't come to the realisation that when you're in too deep you should
stop digging. Climate change rang the death knell for the rotary decades
ago. But it seems Mazda are still digging and just brought out another
rotary engined car - a *hybrid*. Luckily that rotary engine is only a
*range extender*.

--
Xeno

Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 13:32:30 UTC+11, Noddy wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 12:17 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
>
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > As i said, I`m using Penrite full zinc.. And I`m not *hell bent* on *anything*. Simply trying to look after an old engine. <Shrug>
> > Synthetic has been tried and the old girl did not like it.
> > BTW, If you know of a good price for a set of rockers for the 4L let me know.
> Best price I can see anywhere is for Melling MR-740 rocker arms which is
> a direct replacement for both the 4L and 2.5L engines, and they can be
> had from places like Summit Racing or Jeggs in the US for just under 9
> bucks US a piece.
>
> A full set landed here in real money is probably going to run you around
> 270 bucks or so.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hmmm, That`s not so bad really. Its that or more here....
I might have a look at my other jeeps rockers as i`ve only got 2or3 particularily loud ones.
might be able to get some sets from it.

> --
> --
> --
> Regards,
> Noddy.

On 29/11/2023 5:39 pm, Clocky wrote:
> On 27/11/2023 1:44 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>> Xeno wrote:
>>> On 27/11/2023 1:01 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:47 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:36 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 2:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> or it's programmed to use a different map at a certain mileage.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I guess if they are that sophisticated
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Feasible but unlikely, memory is usually at something of a
>>>>>>> premium in ECUs. I'd believe it if a provable example was given.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope you're not holding your breath.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The last 2 new cars that I've owned (a Corolla and a Mazda 3)
>>>>>>> didn't come with any special running in instructions, and I just
>>>>>>> drove them normally from the get-go. One thing that seems to be
>>>>>>> recommended is to avoid running at the same revs for a long
>>>>>>> period, so long trips on the freeway aren't the best idea.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As do the majority of cars these days.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my Kid's Hyundai Elantra.
>>>>>> There is no special oil used for the initial break in. Just the
>>>>>> standard 5W-30
>>>>>
>>>>> Never has been, as far as I am aware. What the running in oil won't
>>>>> have is *certain additives*, like friction modifiers, that will
>>>>> prevent the engine properly bedding in.
>>>>>
>>>>>> recommended for the engine. The break in period itself consisted
>>>>>> of half a dozen low speed passes up the steep hill near my place
>>>>>> to place a high gas load on the piston rings to get them seated
>>>>>> into the bores as quickly as possible and that's it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yep, been like that since the 70s.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Back here for an oil and water check and any signs of anything out
>>>>>> of the ordinary which there isn't, and it's good to go. Which is
>>>>>> about all the average manufacturer does with a new car these days :)
>>>>>
>>>>> The manufacturer does not generally run engines in, engines are
>>>>> just started to see if they run. That is done *on the road* - as
>>>>> you have noted. Should be done at the dealer during pre-delivery
>>>>> but I do it to all my new cars anyway. Doing it twice won't hurt.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'd be willing to bet no dealers do any running in of the new cars they
>>>
>>> I wouldn't bet against you.
>>>
>>>> sell, even if just for the fact that buyers want to see next to zero
>>>> mileage on them
>>>>
>>> There are always delivery miles on the odometer, typically it's
>>> around 30 kilometres. The first new car I ever bought had 36
>>> kilometres on the odometer. I remember that because, just after I
>>> bought it, a friend asked how many kilometres did it have on it. I
>>> said 36. She said, "oh, 36,000, that's not much." I had to correct
>>> her, "No, just 36".
>>>
>>>
>>
>> new cars I've bought have had just a few k's on them. if they had 30k
>> I would consider it a demo and wouldn't accept it.
>>
>>
>
> 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
> Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
>
Daryl worked at the Ford factory and doesn't know that? What was his
role there - cleaner?

--
Xeno

Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

Clocky wrote:
> On 27/11/2023 1:44 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>> Xeno wrote:
>>> On 27/11/2023 1:01 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:47 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:36 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 2:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> or it's programmed to use a different map at a certain mileage.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I guess if they are that sophisticated
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Feasible but unlikely, memory is usually at something of a
>>>>>>> premium in ECUs. I'd believe it if a provable example was given.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope you're not holding your breath.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The last 2 new cars that I've owned (a Corolla and a Mazda 3)
>>>>>>> didn't come with any special running in instructions, and I just
>>>>>>> drove them normally from the get-go. One thing that seems to be
>>>>>>> recommended is to avoid running at the same revs for a long
>>>>>>> period, so long trips on the freeway aren't the best idea.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As do the majority of cars these days.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my Kid's Hyundai
>>>>>> Elantra. There is no special oil used for the initial break in.
>>>>>> Just the standard 5W-30
>>>>>
>>>>> Never has been, as far as I am aware. What the running in oil
>>>>> won't have is *certain additives*, like friction modifiers, that
>>>>> will prevent the engine properly bedding in.
>>>>>
>>>>>> recommended for the engine. The break in period itself consisted
>>>>>> of half a dozen low speed passes up the steep hill near my place
>>>>>> to place a high gas load on the piston rings to get them seated
>>>>>> into the bores as quickly as possible and that's it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yep, been like that since the 70s.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Back here for an oil and water check and any signs of anything
>>>>>> out of the ordinary which there isn't, and it's good to go. Which
>>>>>> is about all the average manufacturer does with a new car these
>>>>>> days :)
>>>>>
>>>>> The manufacturer does not generally run engines in, engines are
>>>>> just started to see if they run. That is done *on the road* - as
>>>>> you have noted. Should be done at the dealer during pre-delivery
>>>>> but I do it to all my new cars anyway. Doing it twice won't hurt.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'd be willing to bet no dealers do any running in of the new cars
>>>> they
>>>
>>> I wouldn't bet against you.
>>>
>>>> sell, even if just for the fact that buyers want to see next to
>>>> zero mileage on them
>>>>
>>> There are always delivery miles on the odometer, typically it's
>>> around 30 kilometres. The first new car I ever bought had 36
>>> kilometres on the odometer. I remember that because, just after I
>>> bought it, a friend asked how many kilometres did it have on it. I
>>> said 36. She said, "oh, 36,000, that's not much." I had to correct
>>> her, "No, just 36".
>>>
>>>
>>
>> new cars I've bought have had just a few k's on them. if they had 30k
>> I would consider it a demo and wouldn't accept it.
>>
>>
>
> 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
> Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
>
>

don't they just use that portable trade plate they hang from under the
boot lid?

--
Have a nice day!..

On 29/11/2023 7:11 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Clocky wrote:
>> On 27/11/2023 1:44 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 27/11/2023 1:01 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:47 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:36 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 2:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> or it's programmed to use a different map at a certain mileage.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I guess if they are that sophisticated
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Feasible but unlikely, memory is usually at something of a
>>>>>>>> premium in ECUs. I'd believe it if a provable example was given.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hope you're not holding your breath.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The last 2 new cars that I've owned (a Corolla and a Mazda 3)
>>>>>>>> didn't come with any special running in instructions, and I just
>>>>>>>> drove them normally from the get-go. One thing that seems to be
>>>>>>>> recommended is to avoid running at the same revs for a long
>>>>>>>> period, so long trips on the freeway aren't the best idea.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As do the majority of cars these days.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my Kid's Hyundai
>>>>>>> Elantra. There is no special oil used for the initial break in.
>>>>>>> Just the standard 5W-30
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Never has been, as far as I am aware. What the running in oil
>>>>>> won't have is *certain additives*, like friction modifiers, that
>>>>>> will prevent the engine properly bedding in.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> recommended for the engine. The break in period itself consisted
>>>>>>> of half a dozen low speed passes up the steep hill near my place
>>>>>>> to place a high gas load on the piston rings to get them seated
>>>>>>> into the bores as quickly as possible and that's it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yep, been like that since the 70s.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Back here for an oil and water check and any signs of anything
>>>>>>> out of the ordinary which there isn't, and it's good to go. Which
>>>>>>> is about all the average manufacturer does with a new car these
>>>>>>> days :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The manufacturer does not generally run engines in, engines are
>>>>>> just started to see if they run. That is done *on the road* - as
>>>>>> you have noted. Should be done at the dealer during pre-delivery
>>>>>> but I do it to all my new cars anyway. Doing it twice won't hurt.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd be willing to bet no dealers do any running in of the new cars
>>>>> they
>>>>
>>>> I wouldn't bet against you.
>>>>
>>>>> sell, even if just for the fact that buyers want to see next to
>>>>> zero mileage on them
>>>>>
>>>> There are always delivery miles on the odometer, typically it's
>>>> around 30 kilometres. The first new car I ever bought had 36
>>>> kilometres on the odometer. I remember that because, just after I
>>>> bought it, a friend asked how many kilometres did it have on it. I
>>>> said 36. She said, "oh, 36,000, that's not much." I had to correct
>>>> her, "No, just 36".
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> new cars I've bought have had just a few k's on them. if they had 30k
>>> I would consider it a demo and wouldn't accept it.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
>> Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
>>
>>
>
> don't they just use that portable trade plate they hang from under the
> boot lid?
>
That's what they use for *delivery miles* and for *pre-delivery* road
testing.

Any demo car is typically registered, has it' own plates, and does 3,000
- 5,000 kilometres. I might add, what you likely buy as a demo might
never have been used as a demo by the salesmen. All sorts of people get
cars, definitely all the managers in a dealership. A friend, when he was
service manager at a Toyota dealership in Adelaide, always had a new
registered Toyota to drive around. When we visited him in Adelaide years
back, before we left Melbourne, he had a V6 Aurion, damn nice car. But
he didn't get to keep it long. He said it was getting close to 5,000 k
on the odometer and he had a new one coming the following week. Get
this, his *girlfriend* (partner they call it these days) had one too,
same deal, change over every 5000 kilometres. The car manufacturer or
dealer is the registered owner. It would be sold as a demonstrator.
Executive driven is another term they use for much the same thing, look
it up. I think the executive driven ones can have more than 5,000
kilometres but don't quote me on that.

--
Xeno

Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On 29/11/2023 7:11 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Clocky wrote:

>>
>> 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
>> Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
>>
>>
>
> don't they just use that portable trade plate they hang from under the
> boot lid?

With floor stock in the absence of a dedicated "demo", but generally any
car listed as a "Demo" is fully registered, and is usually used by one
of the staff as a personal car.

--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.

On 29/11/2023 7:07 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 13:32:30 UTC+11, Noddy wrote:
>> On 29/11/2023 12:17 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
>>
>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>> As i said, I`m using Penrite full zinc.. And I`m not *hell bent* on *anything*. Simply trying to look after an old engine. <Shrug>
>>> Synthetic has been tried and the old girl did not like it.
>>> BTW, If you know of a good price for a set of rockers for the 4L let me know.
>> Best price I can see anywhere is for Melling MR-740 rocker arms which is
>> a direct replacement for both the 4L and 2.5L engines, and they can be
>> had from places like Summit Racing or Jeggs in the US for just under 9
>> bucks US a piece.
>>
>> A full set landed here in real money is probably going to run you around
>> 270 bucks or so.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Hmmm, That`s not so bad really. Its that or more here....
> I might have a look at my other jeeps rockers as i`ve only got 2or3 particularily loud ones.
> might be able to get some sets from it.

Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.

Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from the
same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky rocker.
They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from being a
few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
a quarter of a turn to shut them up.

So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
glass.

If you can be bothered that is :)

--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.

On 29/11/2023 4:37 pm, Clocky wrote:
> On 28/11/2023 4:07 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>> On 28/11/2023 11:58 am, Clocky wrote:
>>> On 27/11/2023 5:41 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>> On 27/11/2023 6:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>> alvey wrote:
>>>>>> Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> why do you write long detailed replies to ppl who won't see them?
>>>>>>> I know you say he doesn't 'really' have you blocked, but that is
>>>>>>> unproven.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's also unproven that he doesn't.
>>>>>
>>>>> yep
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Then there's the small matter that he *has* responded directly to
>>>>>> people who he brayed *were* in his mighty killfile.
>>>>>
>>>>> not sure if he has or just replied to echoed posts
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Plusss there's the fact that he *does* reply to 'blocked' posts
>>>>>> through an intermediary. If he did, as he routinely blurts,
>>>>>> "doesn't care" what these nasty killfiled ppl say, why then does
>>>>>> he read them at all? Because, as the popular opinion goes, he's a
>>>>>> narcisistic sociopath. ie. Someone who *must* know what ppl are
>>>>>> saying in case it's about him *or* an adversary gives him
>>>>>> something to try and denigrate them with.
>>>>
>>>> Popular opinion?
>>>
>>>
>>> Yep, just like it's popular opinion that you have no credibility.
>>>
>> I can understand why both you and alvey have no concept of what
>> "Popular opinion" means
>
> Oh I know what it means but I stand corrected. It's a *fact* that you
> have no credibility.

What a miserable old turd you are.

On 29/11/2023 4:35 pm, Clocky wrote:
> On 28/11/2023 1:18 pm, alvey wrote:
>> Clocky wrote:
>>> On 27/11/2023 5:41 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>> On 27/11/2023 6:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>> alvey wrote:
>>>>>> Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> why do you write long detailed replies to ppl who won't see them?
>>>>>>> I know you say he doesn't 'really' have you blocked, but that is
>>>>>>> unproven.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's also unproven that he doesn't.
>>>>>
>>>>> yep
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Then there's the small matter that he *has* responded directly to
>>>>>> people who he brayed *were* in his mighty killfile.
>>>>>
>>>>> not sure if he has or just replied to echoed posts
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Plusss there's the fact that he *does* reply to 'blocked' posts
>>>>>> through an intermediary. If he did, as he routinely blurts,
>>>>>> "doesn't care" what these nasty killfiled ppl say, why then does
>>>>>> he read them at all? Because, as the popular opinion goes, he's a
>>>>>> narcisistic sociopath. ie. Someone who *must* know what ppl are
>>>>>> saying in case it's about him *or* an adversary gives him
>>>>>> something to try and denigrate them with.
>>>>
>>>> Popular opinion?
>>>
>>>
>>> Yep, just like it's popular opinion that you have no credibility.
>>
>> Point of order! I propose that your sentence is incorrect. It's not
>> "popular opinion" that Retcho has "no credibility", it's a 'fact'.
>>
>
> I stand corrected!
>
Confucius he say "Man who take the word of fake Chinese woman is iriot".

On 29/11/2023 7:50 pm, Noddy wrote:

> Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
>
> Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from the
> same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
> or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky rocker.
> They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from being a
> few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
> them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
> model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
> a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
>
> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
> glass.
>
> If you can be bothered that is :)
>
So, you have a lifter problem, and you work on *fixing* (term used
loosely) the *pedestal*?? If the lifter is the problem, then *fix* the
lifter, don't *butcher* a related component that may well cause issues
when someone does decide to eventually replace the lifter.

Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
something else.

--
Xeno

Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 16:40:56 UTC+11, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Xeno wrote:
> > On 29/11/2023 4:13 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >> Daryl wrote:
> >>> On 28/11/2023 4:36 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> >>>> On Tuesday, 28 November 2023 at 12:29:59 UTC+11, Daryl wrote:
> >>>>> On 28/11/2023 10:33 am, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> >>>>>> On Monday, 27 November 2023 at 17:21:45 UTC+11, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >>>>>>> jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> >>>>>>>> On Monday, 27 November 2023 at 13:31:33 UTC+11, Mighty Mouse
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Noddy wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> On 27/11/2023 12:24 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> Noddy wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>> They are not programmed to do anything *other* than learn
> >>>>>>>>>>>> from the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> way you drive so they can update themselves to suit your
> >>>>>>>>>>>> particular
> >>>>>>>>>>>> driving habits.
> >>>>>>>>>>> I knew the Magna did that but I didn't know they all did
> >>>>>>>>>> I'm not aware of any today that don't, and that's been the
> >>>>>>>>>> case for
> >>>>>>>>>> some time. Your ZS will be no different.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> That must have been a very long time ago, as car manufacturers
> >>>>>>>>>>>> haven't used running in oil for many years.
> >>>>>>>>>>> yeah, I've been around for a while.. :)
> >>>>>>>>>> Apparently :)
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I still miss the Magna. :( wish I had have kept it. for the
> >>>>>>>>> money I got
> >>>>>>>>> for it ($2,250) I might as well have. just for fun I put it
> >>>>>>>>> into car
> >>>>>>>>> sales. valued at $3,300 - $4,600
> >>>>>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >>>>>>>> As I said to you at the time I would have snapped it up, ah
> >>>>>>>> well win some lose some. ;)
> >>>>>>> I remember. whoever got it at the time good a really good one.
> >>>>>>> shortly
> >>>>>>> after I traded it I actually asked the dealer if I could buy it
> >>>>>>> back,
> >>>>>>> but they had already sent it off to the trade. I'll probably
> >>>>>>> have a good
> >>>>>>> ZS to sell in twelve months or so tho! :) (just kidding)
> >>>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >>>>>> I had a TF for a while, and while mechanically sound it was a bit
> >>>>>> rough around the edges..
> >>>>>> That one of yours would have been a keeper!.
> >>>>> Good condition Magna's were next to worthless especially if they had
> >>>>> done a lot of kms.
> >>>>> Wife's brother had a Verarda that was in mint condition with a
> >>>>> perfect
> >>>>> service history but it had done over 300,000km so they only got $1000
> >>>>> trade in when they bought a new car.
> >>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
> >>>> Serve him right for *trading* it!.
> >>>
> >>> Yes and no, if they had the parking space and didn't mind paying an
> >>> extra rego and insurance they could have kept it as a run around to
> >>> keep the km down on the new car but at the time they didn't have the
> >>> space.
> >>> They would have got a bit more if they sold it privately but the
> >>> used car market was different 8-9yrs ago to what it is now and no
> >>> one wanted it, he could of tried harder to sell it but in the end he
> >>> thought that it was just easier to trade it and take the loss.
> >>>
> >>
> >> I could've got more for the Magna too, but didn't want the hassle of
> >> selling it privately
> >>
> > Your Magna would have fetched decent money purely on the mileage. But,
> > as you say, there's that hassle of selling - dealing with wankers,
> > tyrekickers, et al.
> >
> >
> no matter how good the price is, private buyers always want to beat you down
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
Of course, that`s the game.. You just have to know how to play it. ;)
> --
> Have a nice day!..

On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 19:11:39 UTC+11, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Clocky wrote:
> > On 27/11/2023 1:44 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >> Xeno wrote:
> >>> On 27/11/2023 1:01 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >>>> Xeno wrote:
> >>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:47 pm, Noddy wrote:
> >>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:36 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
> >>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 2:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> or it's programmed to use a different map at a certain mileage.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I guess if they are that sophisticated
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Feasible but unlikely, memory is usually at something of a
> >>>>>>> premium in ECUs. I'd believe it if a provable example was given.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Hope you're not holding your breath.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The last 2 new cars that I've owned (a Corolla and a Mazda 3)
> >>>>>>> didn't come with any special running in instructions, and I just
> >>>>>>> drove them normally from the get-go. One thing that seems to be
> >>>>>>> recommended is to avoid running at the same revs for a long
> >>>>>>> period, so long trips on the freeway aren't the best idea.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> As do the majority of cars these days.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my Kid's Hyundai
> >>>>>> Elantra. There is no special oil used for the initial break in.
> >>>>>> Just the standard 5W-30
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Never has been, as far as I am aware. What the running in oil
> >>>>> won't have is *certain additives*, like friction modifiers, that
> >>>>> will prevent the engine properly bedding in.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> recommended for the engine. The break in period itself consisted
> >>>>>> of half a dozen low speed passes up the steep hill near my place
> >>>>>> to place a high gas load on the piston rings to get them seated
> >>>>>> into the bores as quickly as possible and that's it.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Yep, been like that since the 70s.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Back here for an oil and water check and any signs of anything
> >>>>>> out of the ordinary which there isn't, and it's good to go. Which
> >>>>>> is about all the average manufacturer does with a new car these
> >>>>>> days :)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The manufacturer does not generally run engines in, engines are
> >>>>> just started to see if they run. That is done *on the road* - as
> >>>>> you have noted. Should be done at the dealer during pre-delivery
> >>>>> but I do it to all my new cars anyway. Doing it twice won't hurt.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I'd be willing to bet no dealers do any running in of the new cars
> >>>> they
> >>>
> >>> I wouldn't bet against you.
> >>>
> >>>> sell, even if just for the fact that buyers want to see next to
> >>>> zero mileage on them
> >>>>
> >>> There are always delivery miles on the odometer, typically it's
> >>> around 30 kilometres. The first new car I ever bought had 36
> >>> kilometres on the odometer. I remember that because, just after I
> >>> bought it, a friend asked how many kilometres did it have on it. I
> >>> said 36. She said, "oh, 36,000, that's not much." I had to correct
> >>> her, "No, just 36".
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> new cars I've bought have had just a few k's on them. if they had 30k
> >> I would consider it a demo and wouldn't accept it.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
> > Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
> >
> >
> don't they just use that portable trade plate they hang from under the
> boot lid?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
Yes, they do....But don`t go arguing with the know-alls.... <FBG>

> --
> Have a nice day!..

On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 19:54:09 UTC+11, Noddy wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 7:07 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> > On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 13:32:30 UTC+11, Noddy wrote:
> >> On 29/11/2023 12:17 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >>> As i said, I`m using Penrite full zinc.. And I`m not *hell bent* on *anything*. Simply trying to look after an old engine. <Shrug>
> >>> Synthetic has been tried and the old girl did not like it.
> >>> BTW, If you know of a good price for a set of rockers for the 4L let me know.
> >> Best price I can see anywhere is for Melling MR-740 rocker arms which is
> >> a direct replacement for both the 4L and 2.5L engines, and they can be
> >> had from places like Summit Racing or Jeggs in the US for just under 9
> >> bucks US a piece.
> >>
> >> A full set landed here in real money is probably going to run you around
> >> 270 bucks or so.
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Hmmm, That`s not so bad really. Its that or more here....
> > I might have a look at my other jeeps rockers as i`ve only got 2or3 particularily loud ones.
> > might be able to get some sets from it.
> Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
>
> Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from the
> same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
> or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky rocker.
> They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from being a
> few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
> them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
> model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
> a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
>
> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
> glass.
>
> If you can be bothered that is :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
I faced back the barrels off my Yammy 1000 back in the day on a Landy door top. (Liners were pressed in too far) so no stranger to the process. (In this case tho. the linishing belt would be looking good. ;) )
I haven`t had the rocker box off yet, so its all conjecture at this stage. But the rockers by design are fairly wear prone and the noise is high up. Could just ignore it but I *know* its there so its gotta be fixed. (Eventually)
Speaking of the lifters, Fuckin' engineers!!, by making the push rod holes a bit larger the tappets could have been pulled out with a magnet!.
> --
> --
> --
> Regards,
> Noddy.

On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 20:58:47 UTC+11, Xeno wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 7:50 pm, Noddy wrote:
>
> > Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
> >
> > Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from the
> > same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
> > or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky rocker.
> > They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from being a
> > few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
> > them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
> > model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
> > a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
> >
> > So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
> > machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
> > treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
> > glass.
> >
> > If you can be bothered that is :)
> >
> So, you have a lifter problem, and you work on *fixing* (term used
> loosely) the *pedestal*?? If the lifter is the problem, then *fix* the
> lifter, don't *butcher* a related component that may well cause issues
> when someone does decide to eventually replace the lifter.
>
> Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
> check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
> or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
> something else.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just Shut up you annoying cunt!!!.
> --
> Xeno
>
>
> Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
> (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On 29/11/2023 9:52 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 20:58:47 UTC+11, Xeno wrote:
>> On 29/11/2023 7:50 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>
>>> Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
>>>
>>> Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from the
>>> same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
>>> or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky rocker.
>>> They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from being a
>>> few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
>>> them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
>>> model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
>>> a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
>>>
>>> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
>>> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
>>> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
>>> glass.
>>>
>>> If you can be bothered that is :)
>>>
>> So, you have a lifter problem, and you work on *fixing* (term used
>> loosely) the *pedestal*?? If the lifter is the problem, then *fix* the
>> lifter, don't *butcher* a related component that may well cause issues
>> when someone does decide to eventually replace the lifter.
>>
>> Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
>> check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
>> or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
>> something else.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Just Shut up you annoying cunt!!!.

LOL, surprised he didn't suggest a full engine rebuild:-)
Reminds of when I owned a HK Holden with a 307 V8, I got it cheap
because it had a very noisy lifter, mate who sold it to me thought that
the problem was more serious (worn cam) than it was so he just put up
with the noise, I fixed it by running the engine with the rocket cover
off to find which one was noisy then just slowly tightened the nut till
it stopped making a noise, 5yrs later engine was running fine and the
noise didn't come back.
The point is it is possible to fix minor issues with a bit of fiddling
around and knowledge learned with experience and the shared experiences
of others, something you learn when you actually get your hands dirty:-)

--
Daryl

On 29/11/2023 10:36 pm, Daryl wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 9:52 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
>> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 20:58:47 UTC+11, Xeno wrote:
>>> On 29/11/2023 7:50 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
>>>>
>>>> Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer from
>>>> the
>>>> same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a lifter
>>>> or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky
>>>> rocker.
>>>> They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from
>>>> being a
>>>> few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would make
>>>> them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
>>>> model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud nut up
>>>> a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
>>>>
>>>> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
>>>> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
>>>> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
>>>> glass.
>>>>
>>>> If you can be bothered that is :)
>>>>
>>> So, you have a lifter problem, and you work on *fixing* (term used
>>> loosely) the *pedestal*?? If the lifter is the problem, then *fix* the
>>> lifter, don't *butcher* a related component that may well cause issues
>>> when someone does decide to eventually replace the lifter.
>>>
>>> Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
>>> check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
>>> or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
>>> something else.
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>   Just Shut up you annoying cunt!!!.
>
> LOL, surprised he didn't suggest a full engine rebuild:-)
> Reminds of when I owned a HK Holden with a 307 V8, I got it cheap
> because it had a very noisy lifter, mate who sold it to me thought that
> the problem was more serious (worn cam) than it was so he just put up

So you didn't fix it for him, you didn't suggest it might be something
simple, you just went along with what he thought it was - and got his
car cheap. FFS, he was your *mate*! You *ripped him off*!

Bloody fine "mate" you are! The $$$ trump ethics in your book! Sad!

> with the noise, I fixed it by running the engine with the rocket cover
> off to find which one was noisy then just slowly tightened the nut till
> it stopped making a noise, 5yrs later engine was running fine and the
> noise didn't come back.

> The point is it is possible to fix minor issues with a bit of fiddling
> around and knowledge learned with experience and the shared experiences
> of others, something you learn when you actually get your hands dirty:-)
>
Butchery is butchery whatever label you put on it. If that HK lifter
problem was one of those *shared experiences* you gained, it wasn't only
your hands that got dirty, it was your *ethics* too.

You and Darren certainly make a fine pair.

--
Xeno

Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On 29/11/2023 4:11 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Clocky wrote:
>> On 27/11/2023 1:44 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 27/11/2023 1:01 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:47 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 3:36 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 26/11/2023 2:12 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> or it's programmed to use a different map at a certain mileage.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I guess if they are that sophisticated
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Feasible but unlikely, memory is usually at something of a
>>>>>>>> premium in ECUs. I'd believe it if a provable example was given.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hope you're not holding your breath.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The last 2 new cars that I've owned (a Corolla and a Mazda 3)
>>>>>>>> didn't come with any special running in instructions, and I just
>>>>>>>> drove them normally from the get-go. One thing that seems to be
>>>>>>>> recommended is to avoid running at the same revs for a long
>>>>>>>> period, so long trips on the freeway aren't the best idea.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As do the majority of cars these days.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my Kid's Hyundai
>>>>>>> Elantra. There is no special oil used for the initial break in.
>>>>>>> Just the standard 5W-30
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Never has been, as far as I am aware. What the running in oil
>>>>>> won't have is *certain additives*, like friction modifiers, that
>>>>>> will prevent the engine properly bedding in.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> recommended for the engine. The break in period itself consisted
>>>>>>> of half a dozen low speed passes up the steep hill near my place
>>>>>>> to place a high gas load on the piston rings to get them seated
>>>>>>> into the bores as quickly as possible and that's it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yep, been like that since the 70s.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Back here for an oil and water check and any signs of anything
>>>>>>> out of the ordinary which there isn't, and it's good to go. Which
>>>>>>> is about all the average manufacturer does with a new car these
>>>>>>> days :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The manufacturer does not generally run engines in, engines are
>>>>>> just started to see if they run. That is done *on the road* - as
>>>>>> you have noted. Should be done at the dealer during pre-delivery
>>>>>> but I do it to all my new cars anyway. Doing it twice won't hurt.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd be willing to bet no dealers do any running in of the new cars
>>>>> they
>>>>
>>>> I wouldn't bet against you.
>>>>
>>>>> sell, even if just for the fact that buyers want to see next to
>>>>> zero mileage on them
>>>>>
>>>> There are always delivery miles on the odometer, typically it's
>>>> around 30 kilometres. The first new car I ever bought had 36
>>>> kilometres on the odometer. I remember that because, just after I
>>>> bought it, a friend asked how many kilometres did it have on it. I
>>>> said 36. She said, "oh, 36,000, that's not much." I had to correct
>>>> her, "No, just 36".
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> new cars I've bought have had just a few k's on them. if they had 30k
>>> I would consider it a demo and wouldn't accept it.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> 30k's isn't a demo and is considered a normal transport/test km's.
>> Besides, a demo would already be registered and have plates.
>>
>>
>
> don't they just use that portable trade plate they hang from under the
> boot lid?
>

No that's for road testing after PDI or sometimes vehicle drop off/pick
up at tinters etc. and if a customer wants to roadtest a particular
vehicle. Demos are registered and plated and often driven by sales
droids, management etc. as drive cars.

--
In thread "May need to buy petrol soon" Sept 23 2021 11:15:59am
Keithr0 wrote: "He made the assertion either he proves it or he is a
proven liar."

On Sept 23 2021 3:16:29pm Keithr0 wrote:
"He asserts that the claim is true, so, if it is unproven, he is lying."

Xeno wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 10:36 pm, Daryl wrote:
>> On 29/11/2023 9:52 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 20:58:47 UTC+11, Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 29/11/2023 7:50 pm, Noddy wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just check and make sure it's not your lifters.
>>>>>
>>>>> Those old Jeep engines are pretty robust, but they could suffer
>>>>> from the
>>>>> same problem as an old Holden red motor in that they could get a
>>>>> lifter
>>>>> or three that wouldn't fully pump up and would make for a clacky
>>>>> rocker.
>>>>> They could go for years like that and work just fine, apart from
>>>>> being a
>>>>> few thousandths short of their fully pumped up travel which would
>>>>> make
>>>>> them noisy, and having non adjustable rocker pedestals like the later
>>>>> model Holden engines meant that you couldn't nip the rocker stud
>>>>> nut up
>>>>> a quarter of a turn to shut them up.
>>>>>
>>>>> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters,
>>>>> is to
>>>>> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
>>>>> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a
>>>>> pane of
>>>>> glass.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you can be bothered that is :)
>>>>>
>>>> So, you have a lifter problem, and you work on *fixing* (term used
>>>> loosely) the *pedestal*?? If the lifter is the problem, then *fix* the
>>>> lifter, don't *butcher* a related component that may well cause issues
>>>> when someone does decide to eventually replace the lifter.
>>>>
>>>> Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
>>>> check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
>>>> or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
>>>> something else.
>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>   Just Shut up you annoying cunt!!!.
>>
>> LOL, surprised he didn't suggest a full engine rebuild:-)
>> Reminds of when I owned a HK Holden with a 307 V8, I got it cheap
>> because it had a very noisy lifter, mate who sold it to me thought
>> that the problem was more serious (worn cam) than it was so he just
>> put up
>
> So you didn't fix it for him, you didn't suggest it might be something
> simple, you just went along with what he thought it was - and got his
> car cheap. FFS, he was your *mate*! You *ripped him off*!

who needs mates like that!

>
> Bloody fine "mate" you are! The $$$ trump ethics in your book! Sad!
>
>> with the noise, I fixed it by running the engine with the rocket
>> cover off to find which one was noisy then just slowly tightened the
>> nut till it stopped making a noise, 5yrs later engine was running
>> fine and the noise didn't come back.
>
>> The point is it is possible to fix minor issues with a bit of
>> fiddling around and knowledge learned with experience and the shared
>> experiences of others, something you learn when you actually get your
>> hands dirty:-)
>>
> Butchery is butchery whatever label you put on it. If that HK lifter
> problem was one of those *shared experiences* you gained, it wasn't
> only your hands that got dirty, it was your *ethics* too.
>
> You and Darren certainly make a fine pair.
>

--
Have a nice day!..

On 30/11/2023 12:34 am, Mighty Mouse wrote:
> Xeno wrote:

>>
>> So you didn't fix it for him, you didn't suggest it might be something
>> simple, you just went along with what he thought it was - and got his
>> car cheap. FFS, he was your *mate*! You *ripped him off*!
>
> who needs mates like that!

Felix, don't get sucked in by Clasener's insane bullshit. He wasn't
there, and has no idea what the owner was or wasn't told.

You were offered the chance to have the exhaust fixed cheap on a car you
new seem to regret ever selling, but you baulked because you thought you
were being ripped off.

--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.

Noddy wrote:

>
> It's just Alvey seeking attention. > If you stop giving it to him he'll
> eventually disappear up his own irrelevant arsehole.....

And in todays' 'Fraudster Bingo' there's two points. 'Attention seeking'
& 'relevance'.

Here's a challenge for you Fraudster! No. Not tying your shoelaces in
under 20 seconds. We'll try that one again after you've had another
couple of months practice. Now, as you've claimed that your English is
"pretty good", despite all the evidence to the contrary, I'll bet that
you can't explain how my pointing out your lies, hypocrisy and general
stupidity is "attention seeking".

As a baseline, perhaps you could compare it to someone who fabricated a
whole life of achievement, success & macho deeds.

oty Fraudster!

alvey

On 29/11/2023 9:49 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 19:54:09 UTC+11, Noddy wrote:

>> So the solution, if you're happy to keep on running the lifters, is to
>> machine 10 thousandths or so off the base of the pedestal. Works a
>> treat, and you can do it on sandpaper on a flat surface like a pane of
>> glass.
>>
>> If you can be bothered that is :)

> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
> I faced back the barrels off my Yammy 1000 back in the day on a Landy door top. (Liners were pressed in too far) so no stranger to the process. (In this case tho. the linishing belt would be looking good. ;) )

Yeah, it used to be a common fix that the dealer next door to the Repco
branch I worked at would apply to blue motor powered Holdens, as no
matter how many sets of lifters you ran thought the things they would
always clack.

In fact I wouldn't mind betting that there was a TSB telling dealers to
machine the rocker posts to fix the problem, as the factory certainly
had no intention of doing it :)

> I haven`t had the rocker box off yet, so its all conjecture at this stage. But the rockers by design are fairly wear prone and the noise is high up. Could just ignore it but I *know* its there so its gotta be fixed. (Eventually)
> Speaking of the lifters, Fuckin' engineers!!, by making the push rod holes a bit larger the tappets could have been pulled out with a magnet!.

A bit like the old iron head Ford 6 engines. No access for lifters, and
you had to take the cylinder head off to get to them. They changed it
with the alloy heads thankfully. Holden 6's were the easiest with the
removable side plates, and that was intentional as the fucking things
would eat lifters like cops eat donuts :)

--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.

On 29/11/2023 9:52 pm, jonz@ nothere.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, 29 November 2023 at 20:58:47 UTC+11, Xeno wrote:

>> Common causes of lifter noise are worn plunger, leaky check ball, weak
>> check ball spring, jammed plunger, oil aeration. or a worn lifter face
>> or cam lobe. Find what the problem is and fix *it*, don't *butcher*
>> something else.

> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Just Shut up you annoying cunt!!!.

Just can't help himself, can he? He just *has* to try to pretend that he
knows more than anyone else and take over every conversation. You'd
think he'd pull his pig ignorant head in and take a break for a bit
after the complete and utter incompetent he made of himself recently,
but apparently the idiot never learns from his mistakes.

What's that saying? "Stupid is defined as doing the same thing over and
over and expecting a different result"?

He's the poster boy for it :)

--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.

Noddy wrote:

> I think total saturation level was reached quite some time ago.

And yet, like your fantabulous claims, you're unable to provide any
actual evidence. I otoh, can call you a liar, fraud, hypocrite,
misogynist, plagiarist and coward with many shedloads of supporting
evidence.

Game over Fraudster. You lose again.

alvey

Mighty Mouse wrote:
> alvey wrote:
>> Clocky wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Pity most of it is wasted on a tool like him.
>>> Anyway, mechanics in the trade have fully equipped workshops at their
>>> disposal at the place they work so not all that critical.
>>>
>>> And if the workshop looks like you could eat off the floor using the
>>> tools as cutlery
>
> an indication of good management/efficiency
>
>>> with tools in their unopened packaging in cabinets go elsewhere, that
>>> workshop isn't busy and the bloke in it cares more about image and is
>>> guaranteed to be a clueless blowhard.
>>
>> Yep. The Big Shed was a pure vanity project.
>
> sez who? he wanted it to work in

That's debatable. Imo he wanted it in a doomed attempt to match the
fantasy version he has of himself. Given that he posts pix of just about
everything he's ever (possibly) worked on in the shed, how many vehicles
can you recall? Including family members I'm struggling to reach double
figures. So why construct the thing if it's going to be barely used? I'm
guessing that there's very few denizens of Bumhole & Bacchus who haven't
been cornered by the Fraudster and bored by how big his shed is (Freud
anyone?) and how that proves what a shithot spannerman he is.

alvey

Xeno wrote:
> On 29/11/2023 4:11 pm, Mighty Mouse wrote:

>>
>> maybe being more of a retirement hobby workshop there was no intention
>> for it to
>
> Except for the fact he *claims* that he does work on customers cars,

Could be wrong, but Istr that he made an attention seeking post
declaring that he was giving that up. Of course, as a self-confessed
liar anything he says is suss.

alvey