My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.

Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.

It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:

1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one

2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
toilet, bath and sink to high pressure

* The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
- I'm not sure that the existing one would.

I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
work?

Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!

--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>
> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>
> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>
> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>
> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>
> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
> cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
> pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>
> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
> work?
>
> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
> should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
>
>
The cistern was probably put in place before the roof was built over it.
The main problem with having a mains fed toilet is that it stops working
if you lose the water supply. Having it fed from stored water does keep
it flushing during a short interruption to the water supply.

--
Colin Bignell

On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>
> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>
> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>
> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>
> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>
> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
> cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
> pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>
> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
> work?
>
> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
> should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
>
>

I replaced my rusty tank[1] with a same size "coffin" 50 gal tank which
fitted through the hatch, I took the opportunity to move it to a corner
and give a bit more loft space. I used copper pipe and compression
joints to extend the cold feed, expansion pipe and cold water supply and
it took about a day of messing around getting the height right with some
4x4.

[1] at the thinnest point it was still 1/16" thick as evidenced when I
cut it up with a sabre saw to pass it through the hatch. Quicker and
less sparks than an angle grinder.

On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 19:13:06 +0100, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk>
wrote:

>On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
>> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
>> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
>> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
>> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>>
>> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
>> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>>
>> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>>
>> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>>
>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>
>> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
>> cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
>> pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
>> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>>
>> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
>> work?
>>
>> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
>> should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
>>
>>
>
>
>I replaced my rusty tank[1] with a same size "coffin" 50 gal tank which
>fitted through the hatch, I took the opportunity to move it to a corner
>and give a bit more loft space. I used copper pipe and compression
>joints to extend the cold feed, expansion pipe and cold water supply and
>it took about a day of messing around getting the height right with some
>4x4.
>

If I replace the tank I'm intending to keep it in the same place.
Presumably that will leave me with some fun in lining up holes which
will need to be drilled.

--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

On 10/10/2023 19:13, ajh wrote:

>
>
> I replaced my rusty tank[1] with a same size "coffin" 50 gal tank which
> fitted through the hatch, I took the opportunity to move it to a corner
> and give a bit more loft space. I used copper pipe and compression
> joints to extend the cold feed, expansion pipe and cold water supply and
> it took about a day of messing around getting the height right with some
> 4x4.
>
> [1] at the thinnest point it was still 1/16" thick as evidenced when I
> cut it up with a sabre saw to pass it through the hatch. Quicker and
> less sparks than an angle grinder.

When I replaced a galvanised tank with plastic I up-ended the old tank
and just placed the new tank on top of it. I gave a few extra feet of head.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 10/10/2023 19:59, AnthonyL wrote:

>
> If I replace the tank I'm intending to keep it in the same place.
> Presumably that will leave me with some fun in lining up holes which
> will need to be drilled.

You may want to take the opportunity to add an isolation service valve
on the output pipe. Use a good quality full bore item (Peglar?) with a
long on/off handle.

Depending on pipe size
https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-blue-15mm/11085
or
https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-blue-22mm/18343

My guess that the new and old tanks will have enough differences to
require some different plumbing so factor in a couple of meters copper
pipe and some fittings.

In my experience ditch all the old tank hardware, pipe connections,
ballcock etc. and use new. You will probably find that any sealing
washers on the old tank fittings disintegrate when the fittings are removed.

If modifying pipework and using new tank hardware drill the holes and
fit the hardware before you try and get the tank in the loft. Often
working in the loft is a PITA - too hot, too cold, dirty and unless you
have installed decent lighting you may be working by touch light.

If the fill of the current tank is noisy (especially during the night)
consider something like
https://www.fluidmaster.com/united-kingdom-products/pro747uk-pro-side-entry-fill-valve-with-plastic-shank/
instead of a cheap and nasty traditional ball cock.
(other manufacturers have equivalent products)

Don't forget any fittings/pipe for the overflow
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 10/10/2023 19:13, ajh wrote:
>
>
> I replaced my rusty tank[1] with a same size "coffin" 50 gal tank which
> fitted through the hatch, I took the opportunity to move it to a corner
> and give a bit more loft space. I used copper pipe and compression
> joints to extend the cold feed, expansion pipe and cold water supply and
> it took about a day of messing around getting the height right with some
> 4x4.
>
> [1] at the thinnest point it was still 1/16" thick as evidenced when I
> cut it up with a sabre saw to pass it through the hatch. Quicker and
> less sparks than an angle grinder.

I was up in the loft of a Lutyens country house once. Leaning against
the walls were sections of galvanised iron, and in the middle a rather
large plastic tank sitting on a steel support.

On closer inspection the galvanised iron was the original tank, which
had been cut up with a gas axe. Then left. I'd have thought the scrap
value would have made it worth removing.

Andy

AnthonyL <nospam@please.invalid> wrote:
> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>
> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>
> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>
> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>
> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure

If you have a “conventional” tank fed hot water cylinder this is a very bad
idea.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

>>
>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>
> If you have a “conventional” tank fed hot water cylinder this is a very bad
> idea.
>
> Tim

+1 But if the CW tank only feeds some taps and WCs then this seems the
simplest option.
The loss of a Cold Water reserve for WC flushing is probably a risk
worth taking unless you are subject to frequent water loss outrages.

On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 21:25:56 +0100, Robert <robert@invalid.invalid>
wrote:

>
>>>
>>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>
>> If you have a “conventional” tank fed hot water cylinder this is a very bad
>> idea.
>>
>> Tim
>
>+1 But if the CW tank only feeds some taps and WCs then this seems the
>simplest option.
>The loss of a Cold Water reserve for WC flushing is probably a risk
>worth taking unless you are subject to frequent water loss outrages.
>

Hot Water is from the combi boiler. We've probably had the mains off
once, scheduled with warnings, in the 7 yrs or so we've been here.

I guess if going mains some tap washers may need attending to. But
it's also nice to think that water can be drawn from a tank without
upsetting the flow from the boiler. If it makes any difference the
property is a bungalow.

I'll have a closer look tomorrow now that the tank has been drained.
It's been boxed in so I need to remove that and the extra insulation
that I added last year.
--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

On 10/10/2023 22:25, AnthonyL wrote:

> But
> it's also nice to think that water can be drawn from a tank without
> upsetting the flow from the boiler. If it makes any difference the
> property is a bungalow.

Not quite true. Once you have drawn a small amount of water from the
tank the float on the tank inlet valve will fall and start the tank
filling process. You now have mains pressure water going to your combi
boiler and at the same time re-filling the loft tank.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

AnthonyL <nospam@please.invalid> wrote:
> On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 21:25:56 +0100, Robert <robert@invalid.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>>>
>>>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>>>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>>
>>> If you have a “conventional” tank fed hot water cylinder this is a very bad
>>> idea.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>
>> +1 But if the CW tank only feeds some taps and WCs then this seems the
>> simplest option.
>> The loss of a Cold Water reserve for WC flushing is probably a risk
>> worth taking unless you are subject to frequent water loss outrages.
>>
>
> Hot Water is from the combi boiler. We've probably had the mains off
> once, scheduled with warnings, in the 7 yrs or so we've been here.

In that case I would definitely ditch the tank.

>
> I guess if going mains some tap washers may need attending to.

Maybe, be we’ve been using and old Mira gravity rated shower valve for
years since we changed to a mains pressure tank with no problems.

It’s really a case of suck it (or rather “blow it”) and see. Depends a bit
on how high your mains pressure is.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 8:24:01 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

> It’s really a case of suck it (or rather “blow it”) and see. Depends a bit
> on how high your mains pressure is.
> Tim
>

We had our house switch to mains pressure H/W about a year ago, in preparation for the bathroom refits. We ran with the old toilets and taps for about 4 months. The biggest "problem" was remembering to turn the taps on a little bit otherwise the splash-back soaked your trousers!

I got a man in and he used two smaller tanks to get them through the loft
door, The only problem is that I now have a rusty old tank in the loft which
is too big to come out unless its cut up or the roof removed and some kind
of scaffolding tower built too remove it.
If you already are using high pressure elsewhere, then it might be easier
to do the other one the same way, though the Loo filling valve may at
present be a low pressure one and it might need to be changed.
Brian

--

--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
briang1@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"AnthonyL" <nospam@please.invalid> wrote in message
news:652587c7.94905921@news.eternal-september.org...
> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>
> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>
> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>
> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>
> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>
> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
> cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
> pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>
> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
> work?
>
> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
> should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
>
>
> --
> AnthonyL
>
> Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>
> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>
> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>
> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>
> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure

Do you have mains pressure *hot|* water already ? I,e a combi or a
pressurised DHW tank? If so just do this option.

header tanks unless you live in an area with frequent 'water cuts' are
about as senseless as having a diesel generator for electricity.

>
> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
> cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
> pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>
> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
> work?
>
Pointless. By your own account is is redundant anyway.

Gird thy loins, replace it with some 22mm pass through, cut it into
pieces with an angle grinder and take it to the tip

You can then insulate the ceiling where it used to be. Board it over and
store some of the accumulated DIY crap you undoubtedly have, take your
time and make good the ceiling beneath, and move firmly into the XXI
century...

> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
> should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
>
All you need to look out for is plumbing leaks. If soldering copper
absolutely do not use lead free solder. It is total pants and will not
flow. As I recently discovered. Thank Clapton Ive still got some leaded
left over from electronic days.
But today if you arm yourself with some pipe cutters and decent
wrenches, you can do as good a job using plastic pipe. The plastic
connectors are O rings and don't need superhuman force, but connections
to existing copper will need well done up compression fittings.

plenty of people here with more experience of plastic plumbing than me.
But how hard can it be? Plumbers use it every day...and apart from
bricklayers and groundworkers they are the thickest trade there is.

>

--
“The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.”

Herbert Spencer

On 10/10/2023 19:06, Colin Bignell wrote:
> On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
>> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
>> which is the water tank.  We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
>> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
>> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>>
>> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
>> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>>
>> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>>
>> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>>
>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>
>> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
>> cold water, is rarely used.  A second bathroom with shower is all high
>> pressure.  A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
>> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>>
>> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
>> work?
>>
>> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
>> should I look out for?  Or do I need to get a man in!
>>
>>
> The cistern was probably put in place before the roof was built over it.
> The main problem with having a mains fed toilet is that it stops working
> if you lose the water supply. Having it fed from stored water does keep
> it flushing during a short interruption to the water supply.
>
If you know the water is going to be off, you fill a bath with cold
water and use that with a saucepan to flush your turds away

--
Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's
too dark to read.

Groucho Marx

On 11/10/2023 08:47, Brian Gaff wrote:
> I got a man in and he used two smaller tanks to get them through the loft
> door, The only problem is that I now have a rusty old tank in the loft which
> is too big to come out unless its cut up or the roof removed and some kind
> of scaffolding tower built too remove it.

Why is a problem being left up there?

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 10/10/2023 22:25, AnthonyL wrote:
> On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 21:25:56 +0100, Robert <robert@invalid.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>>>
>>>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>>>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>>
>>> If you have a “conventional” tank fed hot water cylinder this is a very bad
>>> idea.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>
>> +1 But if the CW tank only feeds some taps and WCs then this seems the
>> simplest option.
>> The loss of a Cold Water reserve for WC flushing is probably a risk
>> worth taking unless you are subject to frequent water loss outrages.
>>
>
> Hot Water is from the combi boiler. We've probably had the mains off
> once, scheduled with warnings, in the 7 yrs or so we've been here.
>
Right. Thgat means that tank is completely redundant.

> I guess if going mains some tap washers may need attending to. But
> it's also nice to think that water can be drawn from a tank without
> upsetting the flow from the boiler. If it makes any difference the
> property is a bungalow.

Combi boilers are already way below peak flow rate because they cant
heat water fast enough anyway. If you Do The Sums on a DHW water tank
at 2.1bar - a normal limit for the tanks - and calculate the actual
energy flow of 50°C hot water its gonna be something like 100kW. No
domestic bungalow sized combi will match that.

>
> I'll have a closer look tomorrow now that the tank has been drained.
> It's been boxed in so I need to remove that and the extra insulation
> that I added last year.

Really mate, rip it out completely and put in some 22mm plastic pipe.
Do a temporary bypass first, then pull the tank, and then have a couple
of cups of tea and a biscuit and work out what is the best option to
routing the new pipe and making everything good.

Allow at least a week, so you don't stress yourself. Even if its only a
days work, Then it is really fun.

--
Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have
guns, why should we let them have ideas?

Josef Stalin

On 11/10/2023 08:44, AlanC wrote:
> On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 8:24:01 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
>
>> It’s really a case of suck it (or rather “blow it”) and see.
>> Depends a bit on how high your mains pressure is. Tim
>>
>
> We had our house switch to mains pressure H/W about a year ago, in
> preparation for the bathroom refits. We ran with the old toilets and
> taps for about 4 months. The biggest "problem" was remembering to
> turn the taps on a little bit otherwise the splash-back soaked your
> trousers!
>
???
I used bog standard taps and bogs from new with high pressure.
My only mistake was not running the shower cold feeds from after the PHW
tanks pressure regulator . But the water company has recently dropped
pressure in the mains to reduce leakage and its prety damned low these
days so it all works

The problem with taps and bogs is LOW pressure - they need bigger pipes
and valves to get the flow rates on a header tank only 5 feet over the tap.

--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 11/10/2023 08:23, Tim+ wrote:
> AnthonyL <nospam@please.invalid> wrote:

>> Hot Water is from the combi boiler. We've probably had the mains off
>> once, scheduled with warnings, in the 7 yrs or so we've been here.
>
> In that case I would definitely ditch the tank.

+1
With no hot water tank fed from the cold water storage tank the cheaper
and probably the best option would be to put everything on the rising
mains water supply.

Note: If you do have a hot water tank tank fed from a loft storage tank
then this is a bad idea unless some additional safety components are
added and possibly the hot water tank is replaced as well.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In article <ug5m8l$1nt6q$1@dont-email.me>,
The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
> > My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
> > which is the water tank. We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
> > dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
> > things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
> >
> > Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
> > bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
> >
> > It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
> >
> > 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
> >
> > 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
> > toilet, bath and sink to high pressure

> Do you have mains pressure *hot|* water already ? I,e a combi or a
> pressurised DHW tank? If so just do this option.

> header tanks unless you live in an area with frequent 'water cuts' are
> about as senseless as having a diesel generator for electricity.

> >
> > * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
> > cold water, is rarely used. A second bathroom with shower is all high
> > pressure. A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
> > - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
> >
> > I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
> > work?
> >
> Pointless. By your own account is is redundant anyway.

> Gird thy loins, replace it with some 22mm pass through, cut it into
> pieces with an angle grinder and take it to the tip

> You can then insulate the ceiling where it used to be. Board it over and
> store some of the accumulated DIY crap you undoubtedly have, take your
> time and make good the ceiling beneath, and move firmly into the XXI
> century...

> > Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
> > should I look out for? Or do I need to get a man in!
> >
> All you need to look out for is plumbing leaks. If soldering copper
> absolutely do not use lead free solder. It is total pants and will not
> flow. As I recently discovered. Thank Clapton Ive still got some leaded
> left over from electronic days.
> But today if you arm yourself with some pipe cutters and decent
> wrenches, you can do as good a job using plastic pipe. The plastic
> connectors are O rings and don't need superhuman force, but connections
> to existing copper will need well done up compression fittings.

> plenty of people here with more experience of plastic plumbing than me.
> But how hard can it be? Plumbers use it every day...and apart from
> bricklayers and groundworkers they are the thickest trade there is.

Anyone like the plumber who used plastic pipe when renewing our utility?
We are still living with weeping joints.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té²
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 11/10/2023 09:51, alan_m wrote:
> On 11/10/2023 08:47, Brian Gaff wrote:
>> I got a man in and he used two smaller tanks to get them through the loft
>> door, The only problem is that I now have a rusty old tank in the loft
>> which
>> is too big to come out unless its cut up or the roof removed and some
>> kind
>> of scaffolding tower  built too  remove it.
>
> Why is a problem being left up there?
>
>
Well you might want to have a model train layout of Clapham Junction in
the 1940s there instead.
--
The New Left are the people they warned you about.

On 11/10/2023 10:08, charles wrote:
> In article <ug5m8l$1nt6q$1@dont-email.me>,
> The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

>
>> plenty of people here with more experience of plastic plumbing than me.
>> But how hard can it be? Plumbers use it every day...and apart from
>> bricklayers and groundworkers they are the thickest trade there is.
>
>
> Anyone like the plumber who used plastic pipe when renewing our utility?
> We are still living with weeping joints.
>
Well being the thickest trade, Darwin's Law and the Peter Principle
should be applied.
i.e plumbers will by definition be promoted just beyond their level of
competence, but still not quite so bad that they become unemployable.
You paid him didn't you?

--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

In article <ug5p57$1nt6q$15@dont-email.me>,
The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On 11/10/2023 10:08, charles wrote:
> > In article <ug5m8l$1nt6q$1@dont-email.me>,
> > The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

> >
> >> plenty of people here with more experience of plastic plumbing than me.
> >> But how hard can it be? Plumbers use it every day...and apart from
> >> bricklayers and groundworkers they are the thickest trade there is.
> >
> >
> > Anyone like the plumber who used plastic pipe when renewing our utility?
> > We are still living with weeping joints.
> >
> Well being the thickest trade, Darwin's Law and the Peter Principle
> should be applied.
> i.e plumbers will by definition be promoted just beyond their level of
> competence, but still not quite so bad that they become unemployable.
> You paid him didn't you?

we paid his employer, the firm has gone out of business

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té²
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 11/10/2023 09:28, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 10/10/2023 19:06, Colin Bignell wrote:
>> On 10/10/2023 18:34, AnthonyL wrote:
>>> My wife noticed a slight discolouration on the bathroom ceiling above
>>> which is the water tank.  We had a survey warning that it looked a bit
>>> dodgy when we purchased the house 7yrs ago - it was one of those
>>> things "to be done" when we replaced our ageing combi boiler.
>>>
>>> Anyhow I've turned the stopcock off to the tank and opened the
>>> bathroom tap, filling a number of buckets and draining the rest.
>>>
>>> It seems that I have two options unless more are suggested:
>>>
>>> 1) Replace the tank with a smaller* plastic one
>>>
>>> 2) Connect the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe and convert the bathroom
>>> toilet, bath and sink to high pressure
>>>
>>> * The kitchen is now on mains pressure and the bath, if needing extra
>>> cold water, is rarely used.  A second bathroom with shower is all high
>>> pressure.  A replacement tank would need to go through the loft hatch
>>> - I'm not sure that the existing one would.
>>>
>>> I presume any attempt at somehow lining the tank is a not going to
>>> work?
>>>
>>> Are either of the options above fraught with difficulty and what
>>> should I look out for?  Or do I need to get a man in!
>>>
>>>
>> The cistern was probably put in place before the roof was built over
>> it. The main problem with having a mains fed toilet is that it stops
>> working if you lose the water supply. Having it fed from stored water
>> does keep it flushing during a short interruption to the water supply.
>>
> If you know the water is going to be off, you fill a bath with cold
> water and use that with a saucepan to flush your turds away

There having been two burst water mains in the South recently, I was
think more of unplanned interruptions. However, even a full cistern in
the loft wouldn't keep the toilet flushing if you had no water for ten
days, as recently happened in the Rye area.

--
Colin Bignell