On 23/10/2021 13:28, Roderick Stewart wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Oct 2021 10:11:08 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
> <briang1@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Certainly all these so called audiophile cables with unique oxygen free or
>> some other claim at the endings are a waste of money unless you intend to
>> mount your speakers miles away from your amp!
>
> And if you had to do that, you'd probably use a "100 Volt line"
> amplifier (i.e. high impedance with transformers for the speakers), or
> assign each speaker its own power amplifier positioned nearby and run
> the signals balanced at low level, as the broadcasters and other
> professional have been doing for years. There are plenty of proper
> ways of doing it without requiring anything with magical properties.

Some pre-war valve radios had high impedance "extension loudspeaker"
sockets (connected to the primary of the output transformer). I think
there used to be high impedance horn speakers, dating from when moving
coil cone speakers were expensive.

I had such a radio - it must have been dangerous to have one side of the
speaker wiring at 250V if the chassis was earthed! I rewired it so it
was low impedance. I also had a little (moving coil) extension speaker
which had its own transformer and three wander sockets [1] so you could
select high or low impedance.

[1] That's why they were called "wander sockets" - as you could choose
which sockets to put the plug in - also used for grid bias batteries and
probably voltage selection for mains radios.

--
Max Demian

We also used BS1363 plugs with a piece of brass rod in place of the fuse.

David Woolley <david@ex.djwhome.demon.invalid> wrote:
> On 23/10/2021 14:06, charles wrote:
>> Have you ever seen a straight banana? We used to call them 'wander plugs'.
>> I suspect 'banana' is an Americanism
>
> Although Google returns banana plugs when searching for "wander plugs",
> they are different. Real ones have two splayed forks:
> <https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=120687&d=1456498670>.
>
> I'd generally refer to banana plugs as 4mm plugs.
>

Very much known as banana plugs. RS has an entire product category called
banana connectors. Likewise the term is recognised by Farnell. By far and
away usually 4mm.

Eg https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/banana-connectors/1037637

It’s the curved spring that is the defining feature.

On Sat 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
> On 22/10/2021 22:00, Tim+ wrote:
>> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 22/10/2021 19:09, MB wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 22/10/2021 17:55, charles wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I use brown/blue for 100v speakers. The cable is terminated in 4
>>>>> pin XLR,
>>>>> so unlikely to be thought of a s "mains cable".
>>>>
>>>> Weren't Wylex plugs used in some places for loudspeakers?
>>>
>>> Wylex is a brand name, so a search is not helpful, but if you mean round
>>> plugs with one flat blade connector and one round pin connector, then
>>> yes, I still have some of those.  For myself however, I prefer banana
>>> plugs.
>>
>> Those were DIN plugs surely?
>>
>> https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg01874/2p-din-loudspeaker-plug/dp/AV15422
>> [snip]
>
> Yes, those are what I mean, and they were called DIN, but it's possible
> that Wylex made them, hence the quotes above.  DIN stands for Deutsches
> Institut für Normung, German Institute for Standardisation, and lots of
> other connectors came to be called DIN as well, the ones I remember best
> being the very fiddly to solder 5-pin stereo audio in/out leads used in
> tape recorders which had 5 pins in a semi-circle.  I still have some of
> those as well!
>
> I have a question or two about this, as I've just bought a cheap used
> stereo to use in my bedroom in the hope that I can thereby work out what
> the increasingly common mumblers on TV are saying.
>
> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the back
> of them, and unfortunately also the connectors on the back of the stereo
> unit are the wire clip type, so ...
>
> Is there a standard size of banana plug commonly used for speakers?  I
> used 3mm ones for electronic hobby circuits, and I know there were also
> 2mm versions, but the ones you see on speaker cables in online stores
> look as though they might be smaller.  I will need both plugs and
> sockets, and for preference I need to be able to mount the sockets
> securely without having access to the inside of the speaker cabinets, as
> I can't see any easy non-destructive way in.
>
> Is there a size of banana plug that will fit into the wire clip
> connectors on the back of the stereo, instead of endlessly fraying the
> wires trying to ensure a good connection?
>
> And, FFS, why on earth are they called banana plugs?
>

For a start 'banana'plugs are usually 4mm - the same size as used on
most test meters, Avo's etc. What the heck they have to do with bananas
is a different matter altogether.

In terms of DIN hi-fi plugs... The 3/5/7/8 pin DIN had one significant
advantage over phono (aka cinch) - the made a wiping contact every time
they were inserted which cleared muck or tarnishing of the pin - which
phono does not. Used for many years by Quad for that simple reason.

The DIN loudspeaker plug has for many years been used by (e.g.) Ikea as
a power connector of 12V 10W or 20W bedside/desk/floor-standing halogen
lamps. I have the transformer plug (linear) for one of such about five
feet away from me as I type.

>> Is there a standard size of banana plug commonly used for speakers? I
>> used 3mm ones for electronic hobby circuits, and I know there were also
>> 2mm versions, but the ones you see on speaker cables in online stores
>> look as though they might be smaller. I will need both plugs and
>> sockets, and for preference I need to be able to mount the sockets
>> securely without having access to the inside of the speaker cabinets, as
>> I can't see any easy non-destructive way in.
>
>> Is there a size of banana plug that will fit into the wire clip
>> connectors on the back of the stereo, instead of endlessly fraying the
>> wires trying to ensure a good connection?
>
>> And, FFS, why on earth are they called banana plugs?
>
> Have you ever seen a straight banana? We used to call them 'wander plugs'.
> I suspect 'banana' is an Americanism
>

For me wander plugs were the ones I grew up with and have a diameter of
1/8" (3,2mm) and are becomng difficult to obtain. Banana plugs have as
far as I am concerned always been 4mm with or without the spring, some
had split pins.

In article <sl1g4j$amk$1@dont-email.me>,
Woody <harrogate3@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> On Sat 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
> > On 22/10/2021 22:00, Tim+ wrote:
> >> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
> >>> On 22/10/2021 19:09, MB wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> On 22/10/2021 17:55, charles wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I use brown/blue for 100v speakers. The cable is terminated in 4
> >>>>> pin XLR,
> >>>>> so unlikely to be thought of a s "mains cable".
> >>>>
> >>>> Weren't Wylex plugs used in some places for loudspeakers?
> >>>
> >>> Wylex is a brand name, so a search is not helpful, but if you mean round
> >>> plugs with one flat blade connector and one round pin connector, then
> >>> yes, I still have some of those. For myself however, I prefer banana
> >>> plugs.
> >>
> >> Those were DIN plugs surely?
> >>
> >> https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg01874/2p-din-loudspeaker-plug/dp/AV15422
> >> [snip]
> >
> > Yes, those are what I mean, and they were called DIN, but it's possible
> > that Wylex made them, hence the quotes above. DIN stands for Deutsches
> > Institut für Normung, German Institute for Standardisation, and lots of
> > other connectors came to be called DIN as well, the ones I remember best
> > being the very fiddly to solder 5-pin stereo audio in/out leads used in
> > tape recorders which had 5 pins in a semi-circle. I still have some of
> > those as well!
> >
> > I have a question or two about this, as I've just bought a cheap used
> > stereo to use in my bedroom in the hope that I can thereby work out what
> > the increasingly common mumblers on TV are saying.
> >
> > Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
> > enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the back
> > of them, and unfortunately also the connectors on the back of the stereo
> > unit are the wire clip type, so ...
> >
> > Is there a standard size of banana plug commonly used for speakers? I
> > used 3mm ones for electronic hobby circuits, and I know there were also
> > 2mm versions, but the ones you see on speaker cables in online stores
> > look as though they might be smaller. I will need both plugs and
> > sockets, and for preference I need to be able to mount the sockets
> > securely without having access to the inside of the speaker cabinets, as
> > I can't see any easy non-destructive way in.
> >
> > Is there a size of banana plug that will fit into the wire clip
> > connectors on the back of the stereo, instead of endlessly fraying the
> > wires trying to ensure a good connection?
> >
> > And, FFS, why on earth are they called banana plugs?
> >

> For a start 'banana'plugs are usually 4mm - the same size as used on
> most test meters, Avo's etc. What the heck they have to do with bananas
> is a different matter altogether.

> In terms of DIN hi-fi plugs... The 3/5/7/8 pin DIN had one significant
> advantage over phono (aka cinch) - the made a wiping contact every time
> they were inserted which cleared muck or tarnishing of the pin - which
> phono does not. Used for many years by Quad for that simple reason.

> The DIN loudspeaker plug has for many years been used by (e.g.) Ikea as
> a power connector of 12V 10W or 20W bedside/desk/floor-standing halogen
> lamps. I have the transformer plug (linear) for one of such about five
> feet away from me as I type.

I've come across a BNC plug being used for 12v for a light on a control
panel

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Yes most early Redifussion cable TV systems seemed to be using 100 v line
systems for each sound feed, as I remember taking one of their boxes apart
with a switch resistive volume control and a transformer in it.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
briang1@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Max Demian" <max_demian@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:LcKdncnDD821oen8nZ2dnUU78TXNnZ2d@brightview.co.uk...
> On 23/10/2021 13:28, Roderick Stewart wrote:
>> On Sat, 23 Oct 2021 10:11:08 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
>> <briang1@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> Certainly all these so called audiophile cables with unique oxygen free
>>> or
>>> some other claim at the endings are a waste of money unless you intend
>>> to
>>> mount your speakers miles away from your amp!
>>
>> And if you had to do that, you'd probably use a "100 Volt line"
>> amplifier (i.e. high impedance with transformers for the speakers), or
>> assign each speaker its own power amplifier positioned nearby and run
>> the signals balanced at low level, as the broadcasters and other
>> professional have been doing for years. There are plenty of proper
>> ways of doing it without requiring anything with magical properties.
>
> Some pre-war valve radios had high impedance "extension loudspeaker"
> sockets (connected to the primary of the output transformer). I think
> there used to be high impedance horn speakers, dating from when moving
> coil cone speakers were expensive.
>
> I had such a radio - it must have been dangerous to have one side of the
> speaker wiring at 250V if the chassis was earthed! I rewired it so it was
> low impedance. I also had a little (moving coil) extension speaker which
> had its own transformer and three wander sockets [1] so you could select
> high or low impedance.
>
> [1] That's why they were called "wander sockets" - as you could choose
> which sockets to put the plug in - also used for grid bias batteries and
> probably voltage selection for mains radios.
>
> --
> Max Demian

On 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the back
> of them [snip]

I think the best way of doing this would be some sort of recessed box,
to be exact a 5-sided box with mounting flanges around the open side.

In X-section it would look like:

--| |--
| |
| |
-----------

It would need to be somewhere around (mm):
50 long x 20 wide x 35 deep.

The nearest I can find online is this, but, although the depth is about
right, it's rather too big otherwise. Furthermore, although detail is
scant, I suspect the sixth side at the back may be closed and the front
side a removable lid, as that is the most common design to find.

Anyone know of anything suitable?

--

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website:
www.macfh.co.uk

On Friday, 22 October 2021 at 19:36:58 UTC+1, Java Jive wrote:
> On 22/10/2021 19:09, MB wrote:
> >
> > On 22/10/2021 17:55, charles wrote:
> >>
> >> I use brown/blue for 100v speakers. The cable is terminated in 4 pin XLR,
> >> so unlikely to be thought of a s "mains cable".

Richer Sounds are great for gear, but very expensive for cable, so OMA buy elsewhere or on the web. Their solid brass plugs aren't great either, drop something [metal] down the back of you amp and blow your output stage...

Because the impedance of speakers is 4 to 8 ohms, currents are large, so a thick cable is indicated - a 100W speaker might draw 25A. Flexibility is often important too and given the higher audio frequencies losses may be frequency dependent in thin cables.

> >
> > Weren't Wylex plugs used in some places for loudspeakers?
> Wylex is a brand name, so a search is not helpful,

Wylex mains plugs were 1926 and had a round central earth pin and two bladed phase and neutral connectors. One was offset so that polarity could be conserved and their other benefit was that they were stackable. Initially only fuses in the small capacities, but better than BS 546 (1950). but not quite as good as BS 1363, and IMHO 25 - 35 years ahead of their time.

Plenty online.

> but if you mean round
> plugs with one flat blade connector and one round pin connector,

DIN 41529 loudspeaker connectors .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector#Other_designs

> then yes, I still have some of those. For myself however, I prefer banana plugs.

In article <ith33tFkn87U2@mid.individual.net>, JNugent
<jennings&co@fastmail.fm> wrote:
> DIN speaker plugs.

*Well made* DIN speaker plugs and sockets work well as they have a sliding
scraping connection that cleans the contact when inserted and then keeps
clean contact. But many of the plugs sold were poor, so you got
intermittent problems after a time unless you were pushing a fair bit of
power though them to 'reburn clean' the contact.

> That's what I was thinking. Not seen them for a long while, though.

Yes, they largely vanished from audio amps in the 1980s.

> These days (and these last forty years), speakers have tended to be
> fitted with spring-loaded connectors similar in operation to the old
> American Fahnestock connectors.

I tend to prefer large binding posts I can do up tight to make a really
firm contact. Sometimes tighten them a bit more after a while to deal with
any plasticity of the copper wiring.

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics https://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/intro/electron.htm
biog http://jcgl.orpheusweb.co.uk/history/ups_and_downs.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

In article <skunt2$c5o$1@dont-email.me>, Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid>
wrote:

> I suspect using mains cable would give exactly the same sound as any
> 'true' speaker cable, the only reason I wouldn't want to do it is that
> I'd prefer to keep brown/blue for strictly mains applications. However,
> if I could find some of the old red/black mains cable that we used to
> use ...

Is 2-core not still used in a red jacket for garden equipment? Also, is
twin-flex for lamps not still sold? I've not taken an interest in this area
so have no idea.

But yes, unless the cable run is very long, the prime requirement of
speaker cable is to keep the resistance reasonably low - for *most* cases.
A few amps have stability problems and may need more than a given minimum
of inductance, though.

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics https://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/intro/electron.htm
biog http://jcgl.orpheusweb.co.uk/history/ups_and_downs.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

On Sun 24/10/2021 10:27, Jim Lesurf wrote:
> In article <skunt2$c5o$1@dont-email.me>, Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> I suspect using mains cable would give exactly the same sound as any
>> 'true' speaker cable, the only reason I wouldn't want to do it is that
>> I'd prefer to keep brown/blue for strictly mains applications. However,
>> if I could find some of the old red/black mains cable that we used to
>> use ...
>
> Is 2-core not still used in a red jacket for garden equipment? Also, is
> twin-flex for lamps not still sold? I've not taken an interest in this area
> so have no idea.
>
> But yes, unless the cable run is very long, the prime requirement of
> speaker cable is to keep the resistance reasonably low - for *most* cases.
> A few amps have stability problems and may need more than a given minimum
> of inductance, though.
>

Red/black twin is still widely available up to 4sqmm (or even 6 if you
can find it) mostly for use in high powered car stereo systems or for
powering mobile radio in vehicles. Halfords will usually sell it at a
price, but it is more often found at car radio/parts specialists or
marine chandlers.

On 25/10/2021 10:10, Woody wrote:
> Red/black twin is still widely available up to 4sqmm (or even 6 if you
> can find it) mostly for use in high powered car stereo systems or for
> powering mobile radio in vehicles. Halfords will usually sell it at a
> price, but it is more often found at car radio/parts specialists or
> marine chandlers.

I've sometimes made my own twin using one red and one black 4mm or 6mm
and twisting them together using an electric drill. Surprisingly they
don't untwist.

Bill

On 17:12 22 Oct 2021, Java Jive said:
>
>
> Cheapest Speaker Cable: 88p/m, but you can pay much, much more if
> you're sufficiently stupid:
>
> https://www.richersounds.com/catalog/category/view/id/1761
>
> 2-Core Mains Cable, £16.14 for 50m, so 32p/m
> https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pelb1058/cable-3182y-0-75mm-orange-5
> 0m/dp/CB23072
>
> I suspect using mains cable would give exactly the same sound as any
> 'true' speaker cable, the only reason I wouldn't want to do it is
> that I'd prefer to keep brown/blue for strictly mains applications.
> However, if I could find some of the old red/black mains cable that
> we used to use ...

If you think that's expensive then don't forget good old Russ Andrews,
who always has something to sell the well-heeled ....

https://www.russandrews.com/cables-kimber-kable-speaker-cable-
loudspeaker-cable-kimber-speaker-cable/

In article <sl0usc$hd8$1@dont-email.me>, Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid>
wrote:
> Is there a standard size of banana plug commonly used for speakers? I
> used 3mm ones for electronic hobby circuits, and I know there were also
> 2mm versions, but the ones you see on speaker cables in online stores
> look as though they might be smaller. I will need both plugs and
> sockets, and for preference I need to be able to mount the sockets
> securely without having access to the inside of the speaker cabinets, as
> I can't see any easy non-destructive way in.

Buy a pair of binding posts. They can also have holes for banana plugs, but
I find a wire bound by a post works fine. You should be able to find a pair
on a common moulding.

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics https://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/intro/electron.htm
biog http://jcgl.orpheusweb.co.uk/history/ups_and_downs.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

On 24/10/2021 18:13, Java Jive wrote:
> On 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
>>
>> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
>> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the
>> back of them [snip]
>
> I think the best way of doing this would be some sort of recessed box,
> to be exact a 5-sided box with mounting flanges around the open side.
>
> In X-section it would look like:
>
>   --|           |--
>     |           |
>     |           |
>      -----------
>
> It would need to be somewhere around (mm):
>     50 long x 20 wide x 35 deep.
>
> The nearest I can find online is this

Oops, forgot the link, but further investigation showed it wasn't what I
wanted anyway. It was like nearly all the others, with a removable cover:

-----------------
^ ^
| |
| |
-----------

> Anyone know of anything suitable?

As no-one has suggested anything, another question ...

Has anyone tried any of the online 3D-printing services to make anything
like this?

--

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website:
www.macfh.co.uk

On Thursday, 28 October 2021 at 12:48:39 UTC+1, Java Jive wrote:
> On 24/10/2021 18:13, Java Jive wrote:
> > On 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
> >>
> >> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
> >> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the
> >> back of them [snip]
> >
> > I think the best way of doing this would be some sort of recessed box,
> > to be exact a 5-sided box with mounting flanges around the open side.
> >
> > In X-section it would look like:
> >
> > --| |--
> > | |
> > | |
> > -----------
> >
> > It would need to be somewhere around (mm):
> > 50 long x 20 wide x 35 deep.
> >
> > The nearest I can find online is this
> Oops, forgot the link, but further investigation showed it wasn't what I
> wanted anyway. It was like nearly all the others, with a removable cover:
>
> -----------------
> ^ ^
> | |
> | |
> -----------
> > Anyone know of anything suitable?

Yes loads like this: - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Dry_Lining/index.html
You probably want sized to take an architrave switch ~75l X 28w X 16 / 25 / 35 mm depth, but standard size (single socket / switch) should do.

You can also get standard accessory box faceplates (e.g. MK 50p) , with grid module or sometimes with knock outs - e.g.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG8EMS1.html

And you can buy banana plug modules to slot in: -
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLGSP2W.html

So the whole lot would be under a tenner and look professional to boot.

> As no-one has suggested anything, another question ...
>
> Has anyone tried any of the online 3D-printing services to make anything
> like this?
> --
>
> Fake news kills!
>
> I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website:
> www.macfh.co.uk

On 28/10/2021 14:38, R. Mark Clayton wrote:
> On Thursday, 28 October 2021 at 12:48:39 UTC+1, Java Jive wrote:
>> On 24/10/2021 18:13, Java Jive wrote:
>>> On 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
>>>> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the
>>>> back of them [snip]
>>>
>>> I think the best way of doing this would be some sort of recessed box,
>>> to be exact a 5-sided box with mounting flanges around the open side.
>>>
>>> In X-section it would look like:
>>>
>>> --| |--
>>> | |
>>> | |
>>> -----------
>>>
>>> It would need to be somewhere around (mm):
>>> 50 long x 20 wide x 35 deep.
>>>
>>> Anyone know of anything suitable?
>
> Yes loads like this: - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Dry_Lining/index.html
> You probably want sized to take an architrave switch ~75l X 28w X 16 / 25 / 35 mm depth, but standard size (single socket / switch) should do.
>
> You can also get standard accessory box faceplates (e.g. MK 50p) , with grid module or sometimes with knock outs - e.g.
> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG8EMS1.html
>
> And you can buy banana plug modules to slot in: -
> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLGSP2W.html

Thanks, but I've looked at those already. The back-boxes are about the
right depth, but about twice or more the area needed, or that will
likely fit, and also have holes in them which may or may not be a
problem. The x-section of the open side needs to be about the size of
one of those banana modules on its own, preferably a little less, and
the sockets will be mounted on the recessed surface, so that when the
speakers are connected the plugs don't stick out at the back.

>> As no-one has suggested anything, another question ...
>>
>> Has anyone tried any of the online 3D-printing services to make anything
>> like this?

Question still stands.

--

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website:
www.macfh.co.uk

On Thursday, 28 October 2021 at 17:26:46 UTC+1, Java Jive wrote:
> On 28/10/2021 14:38, R. Mark Clayton wrote:
> > On Thursday, 28 October 2021 at 12:48:39 UTC+1, Java Jive wrote:
> >> On 24/10/2021 18:13, Java Jive wrote:
> >>> On 23/10/2021 13:23, Java Jive wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Unfortunately, the speakers have captive leads which aren't quite long
> >>>> enough, so I think I'll probably have to put banana sockets on the
> >>>> back of them [snip]
> >>>
> >>> I think the best way of doing this would be some sort of recessed box,
> >>> to be exact a 5-sided box with mounting flanges around the open side.
> >>>
> >>> In X-section it would look like:
> >>>
> >>> --| |--
> >>> | |
> >>> | |
> >>> -----------
> >>>
> >>> It would need to be somewhere around (mm):
> >>> 50 long x 20 wide x 35 deep.
> >>>
> >>> Anyone know of anything suitable?
> >
> > Yes loads like this: - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Dry_Lining/index.html
> > You probably want sized to take an architrave switch ~75l X 28w X 16 / 25 / 35 mm depth, but standard size (single socket / switch) should do.
> >
> > You can also get standard accessory box faceplates (e.g. MK 50p) , with grid module or sometimes with knock outs - e.g.
> > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG8EMS1.html
> >
> > And you can buy banana plug modules to slot in: -
> > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLGSP2W.html
> Thanks, but I've looked at those already. The back-boxes are about the
> right depth, but about twice or more the area needed, or that will
> likely fit, and also have holes in them which may or may not be a
> problem. The x-section of the open side needs to be about the size of
> one of those banana modules on its own, preferably a little less, and
> the sockets will be mounted on the recessed surface, so that when the
> speakers are connected the plugs don't stick out at the back.
> >> As no-one has suggested anything, another question ...
> >>
> >> Has anyone tried any of the online 3D-printing services to make anything
> >> like this?
> Question still stands.
> --
>
> Fake news kills!
>
> I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website:
> www.macfh.co.uk

I have Mission, JBL and Eltax speakers and they have 4mm sockets on the back, but they are not recessed.

Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:

> I suspect using mains cable would give exactly the same sound as any
> 'true' speaker cable, the only reason I wouldn't want to do it is that
> I'd prefer to keep brown/blue for strictly mains applications. However,
> if I could find some of the old red/black mains cable that we used to
> use ...

You can still get it. I've not seen it in shops anywhere, but you can
buy it on Ebay in various ratings.

Easier to find is red/black figure-of-8 unsheathed, but that doesn't
look very nice in your front room.

--
rgds
LAurence
<><

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