Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be installed. In our
case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are nailed to
the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting season at the
end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.

It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be better off
with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?

--
Tim

I have 5ft feather-board fencing along one side and the bottom of my
garden. Most of the wood posts (even new ones) have concrete studs
supporting them. All panels have 3 triangular horizontals (arris
rails), fixed to the posts with with arris rail brackets and
galvanised screws. Uprights are nailed to the arris rails with 50mm
galvanised nails.

On 23/04/2022 14:43, Davidm wrote:
> I have 5ft feather-board fencing along one side and the bottom of my
> garden. Most of the wood posts (even new ones) have concrete studs
> supporting them. All panels have 3 triangular horizontals (arris
> rails), fixed to the posts with with arris rail brackets and
> galvanised screws. Uprights are nailed to the arris rails with 50mm
> galvanised nails.

I always use the galvanised arris rail brackets, and personally I screw
everything, even the feather edge boards. Normally use ordinary plated
"quicksilver" type screws which I reckon provide sufficient corrosion
protected.

Screwing makes it easy to adjust the spacing at ends, if you need to,
also it's then trivial if you ever need to replace a single board
because of splitting, pets, children.....

Double rail is fine round our way, obviously triple will give a bit more
wind resistance in exposed areas especially with 1.8m boards.

On 23/04/2022 14:26, Tim Streater wrote:
> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be installed. In our
> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are nailed to
> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting season at the
> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>
> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be better off
> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>

If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a brick wall.

Examples of the first two:

https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/

https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/

--
Colin Bignell

Colin Bignell wrote:

> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off looking at
> composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a brick wall.
>
> Examples of the first two:
> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/

The second type might give you some entertainment when the local scrotes
karate-kick it in a few years time ...

On Sat, 23 Apr 2022 23:26:49 +1000, Tim Streater
<timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:

> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to
> wind),
> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be installed.
> In our
> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
> nailed to
> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and
> one
> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed
> to the
> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15
> years, is
> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting season
> at the
> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by
> yew).
> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>
> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
> better off
> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed,
> using
> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when
> the
> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?

Can't say I have ever seen it done like that and the usual failure
mode in gales and tornados is the whole bench goes over due
to the vertical posts breaking at the bottom or pulling out of the
ground like substantial trees do rather than the vertical palings
coming off the two horizontal rails. Certainly worth screwing
using non rusting screws if the vertical palings are prone to
splitting but I don't see any point in 3 horizontal rails myself.

Much easier to screw now with decent drill drivers.

On 23/04/2022 16:46, Andy Burns wrote:
> Colin Bignell wrote:
>
>> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
>> looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a brick
>> wall.
>>
>> Examples of the first two:
>> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
>> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/
>
> The second type might give you some entertainment when the local scrotes
> karate-kick it in a few years time ...
>
>
The first type may expand and bend in the sun ;)

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 23/04/2022 16:46, Andy Burns wrote:
> Colin Bignell wrote:
>
>> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
>> looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a brick
>> wall.
>>
>> Examples of the first two:
>> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
>> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/
>
> The second type might give you some entertainment when the local scrotes
> karate-kick it in a few years time ...
>

Likely to be more resistant than a wooden fence and I believe that the
one seen doing that in a YouTube video lost his leg, so probably won't
be doing it again.

--
Colin Bignell

Colin Bignell <cpb@bignellremovethis.me.uk> wrote
> Andy Burns wrote
>> Colin Bignell wrote

>>> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
>>> looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a brick
>>> wall.
>>>
>>> Examples of the first two:
>>> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
>>> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/
>> The second type might give you some entertainment when the local
>> scrotes karate-kick it in a few years time ...
>>
>
> Likely to be more resistant than a wooden fence and I believe that the
> one seen doing that in a YouTube video lost his leg, so probably won't
> be doing it again.

But that won't stop some other drunken lout fucking your fence.

On 23 Apr 2022 at 14:26:49 BST, Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:

> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be installed. In our
> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are nailed to
> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting season at the
> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>
> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be better off
> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?

Huh, turns out that what we've been quoted for (Jackson's Fencing) does three
horizontals for the height of new fence we're getting, and uses stainless
nails.

--
The truth of the matter is that we Scots have always been more divided amongst ourselves than pitted against the English. Scottish history before the Union of Parliaments is a gloomy, violent tale of murders, feuds, and tribal revenge. Only after the Act of Union did Highlanders and Lowlanders, Picts and Celts, begin to recognise one another as fellow citizens.

Tam Dalyell

Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be installed. In our
> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are nailed to
> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting season at the
> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>
> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be better off
> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>

Nearly 30 years ago I built a wood fence at the end of our previous garden.
There were posts 8 foot or so apart, with metal sections set in concrete,
between which I set extra posts, set slightly back (an inch or so). I then
made really sold panel from 1” thick unplanned wood.

The garden backs onto a path I occasionally include in my walks.

The fence is still there - it looks as good as the day it was put up.

In message <t41ep8$eea$1@dont-email.me>, Brian <noinv@lid.org> writes
>Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>installed. In our
>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>nailed to
>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>season at the
>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>>
>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>better off
>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>
>
>Nearly 30 years ago I built a wood fence at the end of our previous garden.
>There were posts 8 foot or so apart, with metal sections set in concrete,
>between which I set extra posts, set slightly back (an inch or so). I then
>made really sold panel from 1” thick unplanned wood.
>
>The garden backs onto a path I occasionally include in my walks.
>
>The fence is still there - it looks as good as the day it was put up.

Not actually seen it done but I rather like the idea of vertical boards
spaced alternately either side of the arris rails. Depending on the lap,
the wind can get through without losing much privacy.
>
>
>

--
Tim Lamb

In message <jcisu5FbfgiU1@mid.individual.net>, Tim Streater
<timstreater@greenbee.net> writes
>On 23 Apr 2022 at 14:26:49 BST, Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>
>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>installed. In our
>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>nailed to
>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>season at the
>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>>
>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>better off
>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>
>Huh, turns out that what we've been quoted for (Jackson's Fencing) does three
>horizontals for the height of new fence we're getting, and uses stainless
>nails.

Concrete stub posts will extend the life hugely compared with treated
timber in soil. Don't forget Hedgehog passageways:-)
>

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb <tim@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In message <t41ep8$eea$1@dont-email.me>, Brian <noinv@lid.org> writes
>> Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>> installed. In our
>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>> nailed to
>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
>>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
>>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
>>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>> season at the
>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
>>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>>>
>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>> better off
>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
>>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
>>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>>
>>
>> Nearly 30 years ago I built a wood fence at the end of our previous garden.
>> There were posts 8 foot or so apart, with metal sections set in concrete,
>> between which I set extra posts, set slightly back (an inch or so). I then
>> made really sold panel from 1” thick unplanned wood.
>>
>> The garden backs onto a path I occasionally include in my walks.
>>
>> The fence is still there - it looks as good as the day it was put up.
>
> Not actually seen it done but I rather like the idea of vertical boards
> spaced alternately either side of the arris rails. Depending on the lap,
> the wind can get through without losing much privacy.
>>

No, there were no gaps- other than the tiny ones where the unplanned edges
didn’t meet perfectly. I cut alternate planks at an angle to give a series
of points.

A good coat of REAL creosote (available at the time to the public) helped.
Plus I soaked the ends of the extra posts in it for a week before setting
them in concrete.

It replaced a thin, flimsey, wavy lap fence which suffered damage.

I’d built something similar but much shorter in the house before, although
it had a gate as well.

Likewise I made a similar one in our current house, although I used feather
edged board as it is actually a large gate and I needed to reduce the
weight.

On 23/04/2022 18:54, Rod Speed wrote:
> Colin Bignell <cpb@bignellremovethis.me.uk> wrote
>> Andy Burns wrote
>>> Colin Bignell wrote
>
>>>> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
>>>> looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a
>>>> brick wall.
>>>>
>>>> Examples of the first two:
>>>> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
>>>> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/
>>>  The second type might give you some entertainment when the local
>>> scrotes karate-kick it in a few years time ...
>>>
>>
>> Likely to be more resistant than a wooden fence and I believe that the
>> one seen doing that in a YouTube video lost his leg, so probably won't
>> be doing it again.
>
> But that won't stop some other drunken lout fucking your fence.

Nobody seems to have attacked the much more vulnerable wooden fence in
the past 15 years.

I any case, if somebody does kick a concrete panel out, the repair is
simple - clean off the blood, return the severed foot and slot a new
panel into the top of the posts.

--
Colin Bignell

Colin Bignell <cpb@bignellremovethis.me.uk> wrote
> Rod Speed wrote
>> Colin Bignell <cpb@bignellremovethis.me.uk> wrote
>>> Andy Burns wrote
>>>> Colin Bignell wrote

>>>>> If you are looking for long life, you would probably be better off
>>>>> looking at composite fencing, concrete panel fencing or build a
>>>>> brick wall.
>>>>>
>>>>> Examples of the first two:
>>>>> https://teckwood.co.uk/standard-composite-fencing/
>>>>> https://allenconcrete.co.uk/fencing/acoustic-fencing/
>>>> The second type might give you some entertainment when the local
>>>> scrotes karate-kick it in a few years time ...
>>>>
>>>
>>> Likely to be more resistant than a wooden fence and I believe that the
>>> one seen doing that in a YouTube video lost his leg, so probably won't
>>> be doing it again.

>> But that won't stop some other drunken lout fucking your fence.

> Nobody seems to have attacked the much more vulnerable wooden fence in
> the past 15 years.

That's because they are much more common and so no point in attacking them.

> I any case, if somebody does kick a concrete panel out, the repair is
> simple - clean off the blood, return the severed foot and slot a new
> panel into the top of the posts.

Much better to not have it attacked so you don't need to do anything at
all.

On 23/04/2022 19:16, Tim Lamb wrote:
> In message <t41ep8$eea$1@dont-email.me>, Brian <noinv@lid.org> writes
>> Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due
>>> to wind),
>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>> installed. In our
>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>> nailed to
>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground
>>> and one
>>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then
>>> nailed to the
>>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15
>>> years, is
>>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>> season at the
>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by
>>> yew).
>>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the
>>> horizontals.
>>>
>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>> better off
>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than
>>> nailed, using
>>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that
>>> when the
>>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>>
>>
>> Nearly 30 years ago I built a wood fence at the end of our previous
>> garden.
>> There were posts 8 foot or so apart, with metal sections set in concrete,
>> between which I set extra posts, set slightly back (an inch or so). I
>> then
>> made really sold panel from 1” thick unplanned wood.
>>
>> The garden backs onto a path I occasionally include in my walks.
>>
>> The fence is still there - it looks as good as the day it was put up.
>
> Not actually seen it done but I rather like the idea of vertical boards
> spaced alternately either side of the arris rails. Depending on the lap,
> the wind can get through without losing much privacy.

I'd like to see measurements or calculations of how much less wind load
there is on those "hit and miss" fences compared with solid panels but
I'm sceptical how much wind given IIRC a first approximation is "if you
can't see through it then the wind can't get through it". Then you add
for interference effects.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 23 Apr 2022 at 19:11:26 BST, Tim Lamb <tim@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote:

> In message <jcisu5FbfgiU1@mid.individual.net>, Tim Streater
> <timstreater@greenbee.net> writes
>> On 23 Apr 2022 at 14:26:49 BST, Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>> installed. In our
>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>> nailed to
>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
>>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
>>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
>>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>> season at the
>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
>>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>>>
>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>> better off
>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
>>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
>>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>
>> Huh, turns out that what we've been quoted for (Jackson's Fencing) does three
>> horizontals for the height of new fence we're getting, and uses stainless
>> nails.
>
> Concrete stub posts will extend the life hugely compared with treated
> timber in soil. Don't forget Hedgehog passageways:-)

No point round here - nothing but badgers. I haven't seen a hedgehog in all
the 12 years we've been here.

--
"A committee is a cul-de-sac down which ideas are lured and then quietly strangled." - Sir Barnett Cocks (1907-1989)

Tim Streater wrote:

> Tim Lamb wrote:
>
>> Don't forget Hedgehog passageways :-)
>
> No point round here - nothing but badgers. I haven't seen a hedgehog in all
> the 12 years we've been here.

I don't see them (alive or squished) as often, used to hear them snuffling
around at night, double glazing probably accounts for that.

I left the person door of my garage open one night, and went I went into the
garage found a rather large hedgehog in there trying to get out. Also thought
one had fallen into the empty pond at my dad's house and died, but when I picked
it out it was just playing dead, in the time I took to find it a container of
water, it buggered off.

In message <091b1d15-cfc7-776b-b752-c3af2a7ab848@outlook.com>, Robin
<rbw@outlook.com> writes
>On 23/04/2022 19:16, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> In message <t41ep8$eea$1@dont-email.me>, Brian <noinv@lid.org> writes
>>> Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due
>>>>to wind),
>>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>>>installed. In our
>>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals
>>>>are nailed to
>>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground
>>>>and one
>>>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then
>>>>nailed to the
>>>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15
>>>>years, is
>>>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>>>season at the
>>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced
>>>>by yew).
>>>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the
>>>>horizontals.
>>>>
>>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>>>better off
>>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than
>>>>nailed, using
>>>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that
>>>>when the
>>>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Nearly 30 years ago I built a wood fence at the end of our previous
>>>garden.
>>> There were posts 8 foot or so apart, with metal sections set in concrete,
>>> between which I set extra posts, set slightly back (an inch or so).
>>>I then
>>> made really sold panel from 1” thick unplanned wood.
>>>
>>> The garden backs onto a path I occasionally include in my walks.
>>>
>>> The fence is still there - it looks as good as the day it was put up.
>> Not actually seen it done but I rather like the idea of vertical
>>boards spaced alternately either side of the arris rails. Depending
>>on the lap, the wind can get through without losing much privacy.
>
>I'd like to see measurements or calculations of how much less wind load
>there is on those "hit and miss" fences compared with solid panels but
>I'm sceptical how much wind given IIRC a first approximation is "if you
>can't see through it then the wind can't get through it". Then you add
>for interference effects.

Way beyond my skill set:-)

Got to be less than solid. Hedges rarely blow over:-) Agricultural guess
30% less?

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 23 Apr 2022 14:43:18 +0100, Davidm wrote:

> I have 5ft feather-board fencing along one side and the bottom of my
> garden. Most of the wood posts (even new ones) have concrete studs
> supporting them. All panels have 3 triangular horizontals (arris
> rails), fixed to the posts with with arris rail brackets and
> galvanised screws. Uprights are nailed to the arris rails with 50mm
> galvanised nails.

Not feather-board, but when I replaced a fence I used galvanised brackets to
fasten the panels between the posts and st. st. pan head self-tappers from
SF. I can remove a panel very quickly - saved a lot of time when helping
with next door's fence, as the round trip via the usual toute was about 80m.

I put the panels between the posts as that left enough of a panel to do a
short return, so saving another panel that would have been cut down anyway.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 24/04/2022 09:21, Tim Streater wrote:
> On 23 Apr 2022 at 19:11:26 BST, Tim Lamb <tim@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> In message <jcisu5FbfgiU1@mid.individual.net>, Tim Streater
>> <timstreater@greenbee.net> writes
>>> On 23 Apr 2022 at 14:26:49 BST, Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to wind),
>>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>>> installed. In our
>>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>>> nailed to
>>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground and one
>>>> just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are then nailed to the
>>>> horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been there at least 15 years, is
>>>> now falling to bits, and is due to be replaced after the nesting
>>>> season at the
>>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by yew).
>>>> Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the horizontals.
>>>>
>>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>>> better off
>>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than nailed, using
>>>> non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to insist on that when the
>>>> work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>>
>>> Huh, turns out that what we've been quoted for (Jackson's Fencing) does three
>>> horizontals for the height of new fence we're getting, and uses stainless
>>> nails.
>>
>> Concrete stub posts will extend the life hugely compared with treated
>> timber in soil. Don't forget Hedgehog passageways:-)
>
> No point round here - nothing but badgers. I haven't seen a hedgehog in all
> the 12 years we've been here.
>
Since the save the badger campaigns, hedgehogs no longer inhabit Britain

--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.

On Sat, 23 Apr 2022 19:11:26 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

> In message <jcisu5FbfgiU1@mid.individual.net>, Tim Streater
> <timstreater@greenbee.net> writes
>>On 23 Apr 2022 at 14:26:49 BST, Tim Streater <timstreater@greenbee.net>
>>wrote:
>>
>>> Having effected some temporary repairs on our fence (panel down due to
>>> wind),
>>> I was minded to wonder how feather-board fencing ought to be
>>>installed. In our
>>> case with panels 4ft or 5ft high or so, it seems the horizontals are
>>>nailed to
>>> the fence posts, and there are two horizontals, one near the ground
>>> and one just below the top of the fence. The overlapping slats are
>>> then nailed to the horozontals, top and bottom. This fence has been
>>> there at least 15 years, is now falling to bits, and is due to be
>>> replaced after the nesting
>>>season at the
>>> end of the summer (large hedges there will go too and be replaced by
>>> yew). Some of the nails used have rusted and split the ends of the
>>> horizontals.
>>>
>>> It would seem to me that here, where it's often windy, one would be
>>>better off
>>> with three horizontals rather than two, and screwed rather than
>>> nailed, using non-rusting screws. Would it be reasonable for me to
>>> insist on that when the work is done, or is that a fanciful idea?
>>
>>Huh, turns out that what we've been quoted for (Jackson's Fencing) does
>>three horizontals for the height of new fence we're getting, and uses
>>stainless nails.
>
> Concrete stub posts will extend the life hugely compared with treated
> timber in soil. Don't forget Hedgehog passageways:-)
>>

Not sure why the "stub". I'm very happy with our 100% concrete posts you
slot the boards into.

My only complaint is they rattle. I'm waiting for that dry, still warm
day to run some expanding foam down the groove.

WE had 5 posts and 4 boards fitted last year as a distress repair. Now
looking to have the rest done.

Jethro_uk <jethro_uk@hotmailbin.com> wrote:
> Not sure why the "stub". I'm very happy with our 100% concrete posts you
> slot the boards into.
>
> My only complaint is they rattle. I'm waiting for that dry, still warm
> day to run some expanding foam down the groove.

Is that going to work? I'd have thought it would pulverise in short order
when subjected to the wind rattling back and forth?

There are such things as fencing wedges:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyclaire-Fence-wedge-Rattling-Banging/dp/B07L6P9QVH/
but I'd have thought just wedging some timber in there would do it.

Theo

Theo wrote:

> Is that going to work? I'd have thought it would pulverise in short order
> when subjected to the wind rattling back and forth?
>
> There are such things as fencing wedges:

yes, next door's fence rattled after they replaced panels, until I cut some
wedges and bashed them in while they were out, I've also seem metal clips, e.g.

<https://amazon.co.uk/rattling-fences-protector/dp/B08L17QYH8>