On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
>
> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
> lift some flooring upstairs.
>
> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
> and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings
> here are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was
> built in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the
> Artex if old stock was used.
>
> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
> ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>

Google nail puller

On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
>
> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
> lift some flooring upstairs.
>
> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
> and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings
> here are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was
> built in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the
> Artex if old stock was used.
>
> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
> ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>
Lots of people have suggested screwing down the floor.

Beware of the downside. If your house is at all damp, and the screws
rust, they are impossible to remove. Far harder tan rusty nails.

Andy

Actually, the damage to the floor should be minimal I'd have thought. I
remember some kind of tool that made a hole in the outside of chipboard so
the nail head could be grasped and pulled out. The only issue with this is
you have to fill up the little hollows and may need to use different nails
to re secure the chipboard. It would be nice if you could just lift the one
where the connections you want are. As for making Artex crumble, well that
is a bit imponderable as its really irritating and won't come off when you
want it off, but crumbles when you don't want it to. Some thick paint over
it might hold it in place. Personally the best place for it is gone.
Brian

--

--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
<nothanks@aolbin.com> wrote in message
news:kic9pqFqr94U1@mid.individual.net...
> On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
>>
>> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
>> lift some flooring upstairs.
>>
>> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
>> and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings here
>> are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was built
>> in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the Artex if
>> old stock was used.
>>
>> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
>> ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>>
> If you know where you need access you could use one of these
> https://trenddirectuk.com/trend-rbt-1-routabout-jig-18mm-x-1-4-shank.html?
> to cut a hole, rather than lifting the flooring - they work well.
> It just so happens that I was thinking of selling mine because this house
> doesn't have chipboard flooring.

On 27/07/2023 11:39, Vir Campestris wrote:
> On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
>>
>> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
>> lift some flooring upstairs.
>>
>> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed
>> Chipboard and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The
>> ceilings here are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The
>> place was built in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is
>> asbestos in the Artex if old stock was used.
>>
>> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out
>> without ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>>
> Lots of people have suggested screwing down the floor.
>
> Beware of the downside. If your house is at all damp, and the screws
> rust, they are impossible to remove. Far harder tan rusty nails.

Stainless screws or treated ones as used in fixing plasterboard?

Vir Campestris <vir.campestris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> >
> > In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
> > lift some flooring upstairs.
> >
> > I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
> > and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings
> > here are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was
> > built in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the
> > Artex if old stock was used.
> >
> > Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
> > ruining the floor or ceiling please?
> >
> Lots of people have suggested screwing down the floor.
>
> Beware of the downside. If your house is at all damp, and the screws
> rust, they are impossible to remove. Far harder tan rusty nails.
>
I use stainless steel screws almost universally now.

--
Chris Green
·

On Thursday, July 27, 2023 at 12:18:08 PM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
> Vir Campestris <vir.cam...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> > On 26/07/2023 11:04, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> > >
> > > In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
> > > lift some flooring upstairs.
> > >
> > > I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
> > > and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings
> > > here are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was
> > > built in 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the
> > > Artex if old stock was used.
> > >
> > > Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
> > > ruining the floor or ceiling please?
> > >
> > Lots of people have suggested screwing down the floor.
> >
> > Beware of the downside. If your house is at all damp, and the screws
> > rust, they are impossible to remove. Far harder tan rusty nails.
> >
> I use stainless steel screws almost universally now.
>
> --
> Chris Green
Years ago I had to lift chipboard flooring off a mezzanine floor in a warehouse, T & G and nailed down. I set a small electric saw at a depth to just cut through the tongue of the T & G. Thisagve purchase wlong the edge of the sheets allowing them to be levered up with minumum damage once the nail heads had been exposed

On 26/07/2023 11:58, John Rumm wrote:
> On 26/07/2023 11:25, Andy Burns wrote:
>> Jeff Gaines wrote:
>>
>>> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out
>>> without ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>>
>> Small holesaw (without pilot drill in the arbor) around the nails?
>
> +1 yup, if you use it with the pilot to make a hole through a scrap of
> ply etc, then you can use the ply as a guide in place of the pilot.
>
>
>
I use one of these. Only does a small localised amount
of damage to the chipboard which is easily repaired.

https://www.toolstop.co.uk/stanley-0-55-114-claw-bar-10-inch

On 26/07/2023 11:39, Chris Green wrote:
> Jeff Gaines <jgnewsid@outlook.com> wrote:
>>
>> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
>> lift some flooring upstairs.
>>
>> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
>> and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings here
>> are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was built in
>> 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the Artex if old
>> stock was used.
>>
>> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
>> ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>
> I've always simply sawn a square out somewhere (after working out
> where the joists are), then lever up from there if you haven't exposed
> the area you need.
>
> Put battens under the boards around the hole to support the sawn out
> piece when you replace it.
>

For people with deep pockets, Trend do a router bit
that comes with an attachment that cuts a circle and
they also supply ?plastic rings that the fit into
the hole and support the circle of chipboard that
had been removed.

On 28/07/2023 18:29, Andrew wrote:
> On 26/07/2023 11:58, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 26/07/2023 11:25, Andy Burns wrote:
>>> Jeff Gaines wrote:
>>>
>>>> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out
>>>> without ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>>>
>>> Small holesaw (without pilot drill in the arbor) around the nails?
>>
>> +1 yup, if you use it with the pilot to make a hole through a scrap of
>> ply etc, then you can use the ply as a guide in place of the pilot.
>>
>>
>>
> I use one of these. Only does a small localised amount
> of damage to the chipboard which is easily repaired.
>
> https://www.toolstop.co.uk/stanley-0-55-114-claw-bar-10-inch
>

Doesn't it depend on how its been nailed down? Traditional nails with a
large(ish) head using a hammer or a nail gun with perhaps a barbed type
brad nail with little heads.

Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for
the removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to the
undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the removed
section to lay on and be screwed into.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 28/07/2023 in message <kiij8hFtbfjU1@mid.individual.net> alan_m wrote:

>Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
>circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
>Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for the
>removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to the
>undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the removed
>section to lay on and be screwed into.

I am thinking of something along those lines but don't know yet exactly
where the back of th kitchen light fitting is. It's a chalet bungalow so
what is the outside wall downstairs isn't what is the outside wall
upstairs, I think I've pinned it down to a 6 feet square, endoscope
arrives tomorrow.

--
Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
It may be that your sole purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

On Wednesday, 26 July 2023 at 11:05:00 UTC+1, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> In my quest to find the problem with my lighting I am going to have to
> lift some flooring upstairs.
>
> I can get to it and lift the carpet/underlay OK. It is nailed Chipboard
> and I really do not want to punch the nails through it. The ceilings here
> are pristine Artex and I do not want to crack them. The place was built in
> 1983 so there must be a possibility there is asbestos in the Artex if old
> stock was used.
>
> Is there a method/tool that will enable me to pull the nails out without
> ruining the floor or ceiling please?
>
> --
> Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
> You can't tell which way the train went by looking at the tracks
I would chip a couple of small slots either side of the nail head and use one of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-NAILPULL-600mm-24-inch-Puller/dp/B001CKAR4Q
Strictly speaking they can bash their own way but if you're avoiding banging hard the chipping reduces risk of joist bounce

On 28/07/2023 20:54, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> On 28/07/2023 in message <kiij8hFtbfjU1@mid.individual.net> alan_m wrote:
>
>> Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
>> circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
>> Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for
>> the removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to
>> the undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the
>> removed section to lay on and be screwed into.
>
> I am thinking of something along those lines but don't know yet exactly
> where the back of th kitchen light fitting is. It's a chalet bungalow so
> what is the outside wall downstairs isn't what is the outside wall
> upstairs, I think I've pinned it down to a 6 feet square, endoscope
> arrives tomorrow.
>

Unscrew the light fitting from the ceiling. Get a long thin drill and
drill upwards through the hole in the ceiling until it gets through the
floor above.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 28/07/2023 20:54, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> On 28/07/2023 in message <kiij8hFtbfjU1@mid.individual.net> alan_m wrote:
>
>> Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
>> circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
>> Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for
>> the removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to
>> the undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the
>> removed section to lay on and be screwed into.
>
> I am thinking of something along those lines but don't know yet exactly
> where the back of th kitchen light fitting is. It's a chalet bungalow so
> what is the outside wall downstairs isn't what is the outside wall
> upstairs, I think I've pinned it down to a 6 feet square, endoscope
> arrives tomorrow.

Last time I had the problem I used a long drill 6mm drill bit to drill
up through the ceiling rose, into the floor above and through the floor.
(I knew it would come out somewhere in an eves cupboard on the floor
above).

Once I broke through, I took the drill off the bit and went upstairs to
look for the end poking out!

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 28/07/2023 20:54, Jeff Gaines wrote:
> On 28/07/2023 in message <kiij8hFtbfjU1@mid.individual.net> alan_m wrote:
>
>> Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
>> circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
>> Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for
>> the removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to
>> the undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the
>> removed section to lay on and be screwed into.
>
> I am thinking of something along those lines but don't know yet exactly
> where the back of th kitchen light fitting is. It's a chalet bungalow so
> what is the outside wall downstairs isn't what is the outside wall
> upstairs, I think I've pinned it down to a 6 feet square, endoscope
> arrives tomorrow.
>
That's what I did, a ripped a whole chunk of floor out and put it back
with car body filler in rather a hurry because the carpet people were
due. The replaced bit is not fully attached when you walk over it :-(

--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

On 28/07/2023 21:40, alan_m wrote:
> On 28/07/2023 20:54, Jeff Gaines wrote:
>> On 28/07/2023 in message <kiij8hFtbfjU1@mid.individual.net> alan_m wrote:
>>
>>> Personally I wouldn't lift a whole sheet but instead I would use a
>>> circular saw set at the board depth and just remove a small section.
>>> Perhaps cut down the middle of a joist so that there is something for
>>> the removed section to screw back into or else install some wood to
>>> the undersides of the newly created hole to give something for the
>>> removed section to lay on and be screwed into.
>>
>> I am thinking of something along those lines but don't know yet
>> exactly where the back of th kitchen light fitting is. It's a chalet
>> bungalow so what is the outside wall downstairs isn't what is the
>> outside wall upstairs, I think I've pinned it down to a 6 feet square,
>> endoscope arrives tomorrow.
>>
>
> Unscrew the light fitting from the ceiling. Get a long thin drill and
> drill upwards through the hole in the ceiling until it gets through the
> floor above.
>
That's one of those excellent ideas to be stashed away in case it's needed.