On 11/24/2021 8:40 AM, Ken Blake wrote:
> On 11/24/2021 5:41 AM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 16:10:59, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 14:49:43, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>>>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>>On 11/23/2021 2:37 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>>> []
>>>>>> NirLauncher web site: http://launcher.nirsoft.net/ . (The
>>>>>>Download page
>>>>>> includes instructions on how to integrate the SysInternals suite.)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>OK, thanks. I'm downloading it now.
>> []
>>>It's installed and opened. It shows a lot of utilities, but when I
>>>click on any of them, nothing happens. What am I doing wrong?
>>>
>> For me (on Windows 7-32), a single click just selects one; to run it,
>> either double click, or single click and click "Run" at bottom left.
>> (For example, BatteryInfoView - which is under System Utilities - opens
>> its own window.)
>
>
> I tried both of those ways yesterday. Nothing happened.
>
> I;m running Windows 11-64. Does it perhaps not work on 11?
>
>>
>> FWIW, my NirLauncher is v1.20. (I probably ought to get the latest.)
>
>
> 1.23.45 here.

Correction: I just redownloaded 1.23.54

> I just tried again. Now it doesn't even like the password provided on
> the web page.
>
>
>
>> If still doesn't do anything, I can't contribute further - anyone else
>> (preferably running Windows 10!) know?
>>
>

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Wed, 24 Nov 2021 13:28:06 +0100, "Carlos
E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:

>On 24/11/2021 13.17, shemp13@outlook.com wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 10:18:08, VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote (my
>>>> responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>> micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>
>...
>
>>> One beep every (just more than a) second.
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> For what it's worth:
>>
>>
>> A List of ASUS Beep Codes (AMI BIOS Beep Codes)
>
>I am afraid these are beeps happening during POST, not while the
>operating system is running, as is the case now.

I guess that's how I reacted. I know about beep codes but didn't even
think about them. I guess, because the OS was running. But I still
should have thought aobut them.

Still, I saved Shemp's post for the next time it beeps. ;-)

>>
>>
>> Because ASUS uses BIOS developed by AMI (American Megatrends Inc) the beep
>> codes are based on the AMI BIOS. However, many different manufacturers use
>> this BIOS and may configure it differently — the beep codes may vary.
>>
>>
>> Can't find the beep code you heard in this list? You might be dealing with
>> an irregular beep code. Navigate to the POST troubleshooting steps section
>> below to get information on what your next steps should be.
>>
>> Beep Code Description
>>
>> 1 (short) DRAM refresh failure.
>>
>> 2 (short) Parity circuit failure.
>>
>> 3 (short) Base 64 K RAM failure. Try removing any added memory, or reseat
>> the installed memory sticks.
>>
>> 4 (short) System timer failure.
>>
>> 5 (short) Process failure.
>>
>> 6 (short) Keyboard controller Gate A20 error. Check if your keyboard is
>> connected to the proper port.
>>
>> 7 (short) Virtual mode exception error.
>>
>> 8 (short) Display memory Read/Write test failure.
>>
>> 9 (short) ROM BIOS checksum failure.
>>
>> 10 (short) CMOS battery error. Replace the CMOS battery to fix this.
>>
>> 11 (short) Cache memory error.
>>
>> 1 (long) + 3 (short) Conventional or Extended memory failure. Remove added
>> memory, or reseat the installed memory sticks.
>>
>> 1 (long) + 8 (short) Display/Retrace test failed.
>>
>> Two-tone siren Low CPU fan speed, or voltage level issue.
>>
>> https://api.softwarekeep.com/blog/post/what-are-asus-beep-codes-and-how-to-identify-them.html
>>

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 23 Nov 2021 14:54:45 GMT, Frank Slootweg
<this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

>VanguardLH <V@nguard.lh> wrote:
>[...]
>
>> The battery level shown by the OS is only useful as a general guide,
>> like using a voltmeter across a battery to see if it looks okay, but
>> voltage doesn't indicate capacity (coulombs for capacity, and
>> coulomb/sec or amp/sec for discharge rate). There might be apps that
>> log the discharge rate to estimate the health of the battery.
>
> I use NirSoft's BatteryInfoView. Highly recommended (like all NirSoft
>utilities). It shows all kinds of battery information and can log
>information - like charge/discharge rate - over time.
>
>'BatteryInfoView'
><https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/battery_information_view.html>

I've used Nir Sofer's programs before, but I forget that he has
something for almost everything.

So I got the launcher, and it says the battery has 92.8% battery health.
That seems darn good to me. :-)

It also is at 82% but I've used it a little and I took it off the
charger 2 days ago to see how low it would go. Either way I'm happy.

And it said it had enough battery for 3:20 hours. Way more than enough.

(I usually only use the battery for 5 or 10 minutes, or to go from one
room to another. One time I wanted to be like the teenagers and sit in
the park, but then I had a laptop with a battery that only lasted 5
minutes. By the time I got a new one, my vacation was over.)

I usually use the computer every day, even when I take a trip. I once
took a side-trip for 5 days without the laptop, so I was going to let it
sit without charging for 6 days, but this problem started when it hadn't
been charged for for 8 months.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Mon, 22 Nov 2021 15:25:50 -0600,
VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:

>micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>
>> It had taken an hour of charging to be able to start, and even for
>> the charging light to go on. I would have expected it to be set up so
>> the charging light went on right away (I said the same thing last
>> spring.)
>
>How old is the main battery? Is it the original battery?

I don't know.

The longer version of my question would be, If all you knew was what
I've said so far, that it took an hour of charging to start, would that
tend to make you think the battery was failing, or would that seem
normal even from a decent battery that was uncharged for 8 months.
>
>Battery level is, alas, measured by voltage. You can have a dead
>battery with a non-zero voltage. As soon as a load is put on the
>battery, it cannot supply the load. Same with showing 100%, but the
>capacity is not 100%, so it drains super quick. We only know the last
>time you cycle the battery was sometime last Spring (which still doesn't
>specify how long since you last used the laptop, and whether you charged
>it before leaving it in a drawer to store). No mention how old is the
>main battery. A new main battery costs $16 to $35. Some places, like
>BatteriesPlus, are much higher, but then you're buying from a known
>seller to who you can drive to their local store for a return/refund.
>
>How old is the CMOS battery? Is it the original one?
>
>There is also the CMOS battery on the mobo. On laptops, replacing it
>usually requires dismantling the laptop. Sometimes you can find a
>Youtube video showing how to disassemble your computer, or one that is
>very similar.
>
>https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Acer+Aspire+E+15+++E5-573-35AQ+disassembly
>
>If you are replacing the CMOS battery, add "cmos battery" to the Youtube
>search criteria.
>
>If the batteries are original, and if over 5 years, time to change them.
>The primary battery replacement is easy. The CMOS battery replacement

Alas, not on this one. It means taking the bottom of the case off

>can be a bitch. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeTyhZ2VMCc. If
>the video is correct as to the where is the coin-cell battery, that
>laptop is easy to replace that battery as it is on the same side
>(bottom) of the mobo as the backplate you remove. Sometimes they're on

No separate backplate on this one, just the entire back.

But see other post, I think the battery is good.

>the other (top) side, so you have to remove the mobo (if removing the
>keyboard doesn't work).
>
>The battery level shown by the OS is only useful as a general guide,
>like using a voltmeter across a battery to see if it looks okay, but
>voltage doesn't indicate capacity (coulombs for capacity, and
>coulomb/sec or amp/sec for discharge rate). There might be apps that
>log the discharge rate to estimate the health of the battery.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Wed, 24 Nov 2021 16:11:20 -0500, micky
<NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

>In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 23 Nov 2021 14:54:45 GMT, Frank Slootweg
><this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:
>
>>VanguardLH <V@nguard.lh> wrote:
>>[...]
>>
>>> The battery level shown by the OS is only useful as a general guide,
>>> like using a voltmeter across a battery to see if it looks okay, but
>>> voltage doesn't indicate capacity (coulombs for capacity, and
>>> coulomb/sec or amp/sec for discharge rate). There might be apps that
>>> log the discharge rate to estimate the health of the battery.
>>
>> I use NirSoft's BatteryInfoView. Highly recommended (like all NirSoft
>>utilities). It shows all kinds of battery information and can log
>>information - like charge/discharge rate - over time.
>>
>>'BatteryInfoView'
>><https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/battery_information_view.html>
>
>
>I've used Nir Sofer's programs before, but I forget that he has
>something for almost everything.
>
>So I got the launcher, and it says the battery has 92.8% battery health.
>That seems darn good to me. :-)
>
>It also is at 82% but I've used it a little and I took it off the
>charger 2 days ago to see how low it would go. Either way I'm happy.
>
>And it said it had enough battery for 3:20 hours. Way more than enough.
>
>(I usually only use the battery for 5 or 10 minutes, or to go from one
>room to another. One time I wanted to be like the teenagers and sit in
>the park, but then I had a laptop with a battery that only lasted 5
>minutes. By the time I got a new one, my vacation was over.)
>
>
>I usually use the computer every day, even when I take a trip. I once
>took a side-trip for 5 days without the laptop, so I was going to let it
>sit without charging for 6 days, but this problem started when it hadn't
>been charged for for 8 months.

Ooops, so I plugged in the charger just now and the beeping and the
screen brightness changing started again, though more unevenly. I'll
wait for a while.... or restart it. The screen gets either brighter or
less bright whenever it beeps.

Also, some little red light blinks pretty much in sync with the beeping.

I think if I plug the charger in before turning the computer on, I won't
have this problem. No, that didn't work.

Now I see that that sometimes it says Charging, AC Power, but sometimes
it just says Discharging, and sometimes even Discharging, AC Power !!!!

Without my touching the power cord. (and yes, I checked where it was
plugged into the wall.)

This last one is strange and I was going to turn down the screen
brightness to make it draw less, but then I looked at the power supply.

(Also, for a while it said TOTAL time needed to charge the battery was
24 hours, now it sais 5 hours.)

It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.

After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
charged it stopped beeping.

Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???

I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
lowered the demain on the power supply.

AL15a32

Don't know if the battery app also shows you the internal temperature of
the laptop. Showing battery temperature is not the same as showing
internal temperature. Get a temperature monitor. With laptops, users
often neglect to clean out the only air port. However, into the air
port further compacts the debris inside. To blow out the dust means
opening the case. Just the backpanel (bottom side) should be
sufficient.

On 11/24/2021 4:51 PM, micky wrote:

> Ooops, so I plugged in the charger just now and the beeping and the
> screen brightness changing started again, though more unevenly. I'll
> wait for a while.... or restart it. The screen gets either brighter or
> less bright whenever it beeps.
>
> Also, some little red light blinks pretty much in sync with the beeping.
>
> I think if I plug the charger in before turning the computer on, I won't
> have this problem. No, that didn't work.
>
> Now I see that that sometimes it says Charging, AC Power, but sometimes
> it just says Discharging, and sometimes even Discharging, AC Power !!!!
>
> Without my touching the power cord. (and yes, I checked where it was
> plugged into the wall.)
>
> This last one is strange and I was going to turn down the screen
> brightness to make it draw less, but then I looked at the power supply.
>
> (Also, for a while it said TOTAL time needed to charge the battery was
> 24 hours, now it sais 5 hours.)
>
> It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
> selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
> has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.
>
>
> After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
> charged it stopped beeping.
>
> Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???
>
> I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
> lowered the demain on the power supply.
>
> AL15a32

Aha!

A bar bet on chargers... Gotcha.

Charging process:
1) CC (bulk-charge phase, hi-current=faster charge)
2) CV until current drops to a certain level (topping-up phase, slow from 80% to 100%)

The laptop design assumes the original charger is present.

Some laptop chargers have had three wires, and the third
wire could carry some intelligence between the charger
and the machine. This allowed some gamer laptops, to be
able to sense one of the two charger models that the
laptops could use.

But it is more common for chargers to be two wire with
a barrel plug, and for the process to be dumber and
filled with assumptions about capability.

If I wanted to fill your battery in two hours, I'd
be setting my CC commensurate with what the adapter
would normally have to offer.

Look at BEV charging curves, if you want to see how
really massive batteries are charged. They're a lot more
careful than your laptop. The CC may be related to the
temperature and degree of fullness with time. On a BEV,
the charging process offers feedback. On a laptop,
it's a bit more of a passive process. The cell voltage
is very important, and it is monitored. This is a
basic requirement with Lithium. You can be lazy,
but not too lazy.

The charging control might notice your gutless
charger winking out, and it's not going to like
a highly variable (overloaded) inlet voltage or
momentary current limit (adapter OFF) behavior.

And thus, we discover a Runtime beep pattern, that
no normal user would ever discover, not in a month
of Sundays.

BEVs are similarly equipped for inlet analysis, but
they take it a lot more seriously. If a BEV draws
hundreds of amps, you would not want "loose wiring"
or a "broken cord" in the picture. The BEV validates
the stability of the charging voltage and frequency.
This is why people discover, to their horror, that
a Honda generator won't charge a BEV. The BEV will
display on the screen "do be pissing off now, that
power source is no good". Or "your power source is
delightful, starting three course meal". It appears
your laptop has crudely done something similar.
Winked at you.

Paul

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
[...]

> Ooops, so I plugged in the charger just now and the beeping and the
> screen brightness changing started again, though more unevenly. I'll
> wait for a while.... or restart it. The screen gets either brighter or
> less bright whenever it beeps.
>
> Also, some little red light blinks pretty much in sync with the beeping.
>
> I think if I plug the charger in before turning the computer on, I won't
> have this problem. No, that didn't work.
>
> Now I see that that sometimes it says Charging, AC Power, but sometimes
> it just says Discharging, and sometimes even Discharging, AC Power !!!!

["it" = BatteryInfoView]

"Discharging, AC Power" indicates that the 'charger' (AC adapter)
supplies less power than the laptop uses, so while it's on AC power,
it's still discharging.

> Without my touching the power cord. (and yes, I checked where it was
> plugged into the wall.)
>
> This last one is strange and I was going to turn down the screen
> brightness to make it draw less, but then I looked at the power supply.
>
> (Also, for a while it said TOTAL time needed to charge the battery was
> 24 hours, now it sais 5 hours.)
>
> It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
> selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
> has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.

Yes, 1.58A is very little for a laptop. That's something like only
30W (1.58A at probably some 19.5V). Most laptop adapters will be 65 or
90W, i.e. two to three times what you have. (FYI, mine is 65W (for also
a 15.6" laptop).)

> After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
> charged it stopped beeping.
>
> Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???

Yes, I think you should.

But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.

> I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
> lowered the demain on the power supply.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 25 Nov 2021 19:08:01 GMT, Frank Slootweg
<this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

>micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>[...]
>
>> Ooops, so I plugged in the charger just now and the beeping and the
>> screen brightness changing started again, though more unevenly. I'll
>> wait for a while.... or restart it. The screen gets either brighter or
>> less bright whenever it beeps.
>>
>> Also, some little red light blinks pretty much in sync with the beeping.
>>
>> I think if I plug the charger in before turning the computer on, I won't
>> have this problem. No, that didn't work.
>>
>> Now I see that that sometimes it says Charging, AC Power, but sometimes
>> it just says Discharging, and sometimes even Discharging, AC Power !!!!
>
>["it" = BatteryInfoView]

Yes, exactly.
>
> "Discharging, AC Power" indicates that the 'charger' (AC adapter)
>supplies less power than the laptop uses, so while it's on AC power,
>it's still discharging.

That's what it sounded like, but I found it amazing, and so it takes a
while to sink in.
>
>> Without my touching the power cord. (and yes, I checked where it was
>> plugged into the wall.)
>>
>> This last one is strange and I was going to turn down the screen
>> brightness to make it draw less, but then I looked at the power supply.
>>
>> (Also, for a while it said TOTAL time needed to charge the battery was
>> 24 hours, now it sais 5 hours.)
>>
>> It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
>> selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
>> has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.
>
> Yes, 1.58A is very little for a laptop. That's something like only
>30W (1.58A at probably some 19.5V). Most laptop adapters will be 65 or
>90W, i.e. two to three times what you have. (FYI, mine is 65W (for also
>a 15.6" laptop).)

I was given this along with 2 other older ones by a friend who has a
business, and each of his technicians gets a laptop. One of the 3
didn't have a power supply, but I don't think it was this one. The
other two were Toshiba and I think the jack is different -- I'll go look
in a few minutes - No, it's different. -- so I think this one had a plug
that fit, but it could have been replaced when they were still using it.
So I'll get another one. They are as little as $12.

>> After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
>> charged it stopped beeping.
>>
>> Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???
>
> Yes, I think you should.
>
> But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
>laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
>laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
>don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
>what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
>time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
>adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.

I did this and after two days of sitting, it was still at 98 or 100%
charged, but then even with the charger connected, but more running than
the previous usage, it went back to alternating between those 3
statuses.

I know the remedy will be buying a bigger charger, but it's still
interesting.

More is runing, but only
BatteryInfoView,
the NirLauncher (which isn't doing anything),
the built-in Windows file manager (which isn't doing anything) and
Firefox (which has a video playing but it's in Pause, which I thought
is like not doing anything??)

So I woudln't have expected this to be a bigger load on the charger than
when only the OS and BatteryInfoView was running.

And even though I'm touching nothing, the Power State changes in no
apparent order:
from Discharging, AC Power
to just plain Discharging (How come it doesn't show AC Power some of
the time? This is the biggest question in this post!!!)
to charging, AC Power, for short periods of time
and back to Discharging, AC Power.

Also interesting is that right now instead of listening to webradio, I'm
listening to a real FM radio, on a strong station, and yet it makes
"static", some kinds of sound interference, for a second every time it
beeps. (Well FTR it did make static but it stopped. Then when I
closed the lid and it turned off, the red light is going on and off and
the static occurs as long as the red light is on.)
Also the battery light which had been red, or flashing red, or blue
when fully charged, is now not on at all! I thought the battery light
was supposed to be always on with one color or another.

>> I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
>> lowered the demain on the power supply.

I wonder if the reason my friend or someone in his office thought this
laptop deserved to be put in the junk box in the attic was that it had
this weak power supply. Regardless, if anything, my friend will be sort
of angry if I bring this up again. He's a great guy, generous to
everyone, a good son and son-in-law, but this is his one flaw. So I'm
not going to bring it up.

My friend called a month later and wanted to know if certain proprietary
software was on any of the 3 and the oldest one did have it, so I
returned it. I guess he had some client who was still using whatever the
software connected to and for some reason he, and his computer-savvy
brother-in-law, couldn't install the software on one of his newer
laptops.

The other I gave to an 80-year old woman I know, but she never used it
and later said she wants a tablet. This was in the summer when she
spent a lot of time sitting on her porch watching people walk by, but
now that it's cold, she might be happy sitting at a table with the
laptop. I have to call her again.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Wed, 24 Nov 2021 16:20:45 -0600,
VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote:

>Don't know if the battery app also shows you the internal temperature of
>the laptop. Showing battery temperature is not the same as showing
>internal temperature. Get a temperature monitor. With laptops, users
>often neglect to clean out the only air port. However, into the air
>port further compacts the debris inside. To blow out the dust means
>opening the case. Just the backpanel (bottom side) should be
>sufficient.

I had it apart when I added memory and changed the drive to an SDD and
it was perfectly clean inside. I don't think they used it much. He's had
trouble finding good technicians, even though he pays a decent salary
and provides benefits including health insurance. Sometimes he has to
do the service calls himself (although many can be done remotely now.)

I'm 99% sure I put in Speccy last spring. It's not running hot.

Ken Blake wrote:
> On 11/24/2021 8:40 AM, Ken Blake wrote:
>> On 11/24/2021 5:41 AM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 16:10:59, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 14:49:43, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>>>>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>>> On 11/23/2021 2:37 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>>>> []
>>>>>>>  NirLauncher web site: http://launcher.nirsoft.net/ .  (The
>>>>>>> Download page
>>>>>>> includes instructions on how to integrate the SysInternals suite.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> OK, thanks. I'm downloading it now.
>>> []
>>>> It's installed and opened. It shows a lot of utilities, but when I
>>>> click on any of them, nothing happens. What am I doing wrong?
>>>>
>>> For me (on Windows 7-32), a single click just selects one; to run it,
>>> either double click, or single click and click "Run" at bottom left.
>>> (For example, BatteryInfoView - which is under System Utilities - opens
>>> its own window.)
>>
>>
>> I tried both of those ways yesterday. Nothing happened.
>>
>> I;m running Windows 11-64. Does it perhaps not work on 11?
>>
>>>
>>> FWIW, my NirLauncher is v1.20. (I probably ought to get the latest.)
>>
>>
>> 1.23.45 here.
>
>
> Correction: I just redownloaded 1.23.54
>
>
>> I just tried again. Now it doesn't even like the password provided on
>> the web page.
>>
>>
>>
>>> If still doesn't do anything, I can't contribute further - anyone else
>>> (preferably running Windows 10!) know?
>>>
>>
>
Latest download verions works fine here on Win10 and Win11.

Fyi...I've previously suggested folks grab the full multiple-program
'Launcher' zip file. In doing so, I always instruct folks if using
Windows 8.1 or later to create a folder/subfolder on their device(e.g.
Nirsoft/Launcher)
=> Before downloading open Windows Security and add that same created
folder as an *Exclusion*
Then download the Launcher zip to that same folder, then use Windows own
feature to extract the zip file contents to the Launcher folder
- the end result in the Launcher folder will be3 files(autorun,
NirLauncher.cfg and NirLauncher.exe) plus the original zip file.
- Post extraction, the original zip file can be deleted.

Why the Windows Security/Defender *exclusion*?
Windows 10/11 Windows Security/Defender is quite protective of
downloading zip files with exe and extracting exe files.

The run the Nirsoft Launcher just run NirLauncher.exe(rt click Run as
Admin is my preferred. Once the Launcher program and menu loads, you've
full access to the couple hundred built in Utilities and their apps that
were extracted to the Nirsoft/Launcher/Nirsoft folder.
To run any of the apps in the Launcher list, just double click it.

As with any utility program, ensure you know and have a reason for
running any app with an understanding of its use, purpose and impact.

--
....w¡ñ§±¤ñ
msft mvp 2007-2020

On 11/26/2021 3:45 PM, ...w¡ñ§±¤ñ wrote:
> Ken Blake wrote:
>> On 11/24/2021 8:40 AM, Ken Blake wrote:
>>> On 11/24/2021 5:41 AM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 16:10:59, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>>>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>>> On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 14:49:43, Ken Blake <Ken@invalidinvalid.com>
>>>>>> wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>>>>>>> On 11/23/2021 2:37 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>>>>> []
>>>>>>>>  NirLauncher web site: http://launcher.nirsoft.net/ .  (The
>>>>>>>> Download page
>>>>>>>> includes instructions on how to integrate the SysInternals suite.)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> OK, thanks. I'm downloading it now.
>>>> []
>>>>> It's installed and opened. It shows a lot of utilities, but when I
>>>>> click on any of them, nothing happens. What am I doing wrong?
>>>>>
>>>> For me (on Windows 7-32), a single click just selects one; to run it,
>>>> either double click, or single click and click "Run" at bottom left.
>>>> (For example, BatteryInfoView - which is under System Utilities - opens
>>>> its own window.)
>>>
>>>
>>> I tried both of those ways yesterday. Nothing happened.
>>>
>>> I;m running Windows 11-64. Does it perhaps not work on 11?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> FWIW, my NirLauncher is v1.20. (I probably ought to get the latest.)
>>>
>>>
>>> 1.23.45 here.
>>
>>
>> Correction: I just redownloaded 1.23.54
>>
>>
>>> I just tried again. Now it doesn't even like the password provided on
>>> the web page.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> If still doesn't do anything, I can't contribute further - anyone else
>>>> (preferably running Windows 10!) know?
>>>>
>>>
>>
> Latest download verions works fine here on Win10 and Win11.
>
> Fyi...I've previously suggested folks grab the full multiple-program
> 'Launcher' zip file. In doing so, I always instruct folks if using
> Windows 8.1 or later to create a folder/subfolder on their device(e.g.
> Nirsoft/Launcher)
> => Before downloading open Windows Security and add that same created
> folder as an *Exclusion*
> Then download the Launcher zip to that same folder, then use Windows own
> feature to extract the zip file contents to the Launcher folder
> - the end result in the Launcher folder will be3 files(autorun,
> NirLauncher.cfg and NirLauncher.exe) plus the original zip file.
> - Post extraction, the original zip file can be deleted.
>
> Why the Windows Security/Defender *exclusion*?
> Windows 10/11 Windows Security/Defender is quite protective of
> downloading zip files with exe and extracting exe files.
>
> The run the Nirsoft Launcher just run NirLauncher.exe(rt click Run as
> Admin is my preferred. Once the Launcher program and menu loads, you've
> full access to the couple hundred built in Utilities and their apps that
> were extracted to the Nirsoft/Launcher/Nirsoft folder.
> To run any of the apps in the Launcher list, just double click it.

Thanks. No time now, but I'll do as you suggest tomorrow.

>
> As with any utility program, ensure you know and have a reason for
> running any app with an understanding of its use, purpose and impact.
>
>
>

On Fri, 26 Nov 2021 at 11:22:38, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
(my responses usually follow points raised):
>In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 25 Nov 2021 19:08:01 GMT, Frank Slootweg
><this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:
>
>>micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
[]
>> "Discharging, AC Power" indicates that the 'charger' (AC adapter)
>>supplies less power than the laptop uses, so while it's on AC power,
>>it's still discharging.
>
>That's what it sounded like, but I found it amazing, and so it takes a
>while to sink in.

See if the laptop has some indication on the label on the bottom how
much current it expects to draw from an external supply.
[]
>>> It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
>>> selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
>>> has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.
>>
>> Yes, 1.58A is very little for a laptop. That's something like only
>>30W (1.58A at probably some 19.5V). Most laptop adapters will be 65 or
>>90W, i.e. two to three times what you have. (FYI, mine is 65W (for also
>>a 15.6" laptop).)

Yes, for this laptop - which is less than 15", not sure how much less
(Toshiba protégé 700) - over 3 and a bit A on the 19V seems to be the
norm. (The 3.15A one I had - so ~60W - just died; all the replacements
seem to be more like 65W. 30W, especially for a 15", seems insufficient.
[]
>>> After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
>>> charged it stopped beeping.

Could be it draws less from the charger when nearing full, or could be
it has the modification to the charging scheme that several
manufacturers introduced which actually stops charging at 8x%, which
makes the battery last longer (in years rather than minutes, I mean).
>>>
>>> Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???
>>
>> Yes, I think you should.

Definitely.
>>
>> But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
>>laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
>>laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
>>don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
>>what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
>>time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
>>adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.
>
>I did this and after two days of sitting, it was still at 98 or 100%
>charged, but then even with the charger connected, but more running than
>the previous usage, it went back to alternating between those 3
>statuses.

Frank meant run it on battery only, to see what sort of state the
battery is in (i. e. does it hold enough charge to actually be useful
for other than carting the laptop from one room to another).
[]
>So I woudln't have expected this to be a bigger load on the charger than
>when only the OS and BatteryInfoView was running.
>
>And even though I'm touching nothing, the Power State changes in no
>apparent order:
> from Discharging, AC Power
> to just plain Discharging (How come it doesn't show AC Power some of
>the time? This is the biggest question in this post!!!)

At a pure guess, the little charger has some sort of self-protection,
and shuts off to protect itself, then comes back on. Could be it just
detects it's having more than its rated maximum drawn for over some
limit, or could just be overheating and protecting itself from that,
then turning back on when it cools down. Does it get more than warm?
There will probably be a light on the laptop showing when it's receiving
external power - on mine it shows a plug and lead and is green.

> to charging, AC Power, for short periods of time
> and back to Discharging, AC Power.

At a guess: comes back at its full rated output (or slightly more), then
folds back to a lower level, then shuts itself off, then comes back ...
>
>Also interesting is that right now instead of listening to webradio, I'm
>listening to a real FM radio, on a strong station, and yet it makes
>"static", some kinds of sound interference, for a second every time it
>beeps. (Well FTR it did make static but it stopped. Then when I
>closed the lid and it turned off, the red light is going on and off and
>the static occurs as long as the red light is on.)

Sounds like the supply is either unhappy (being overloaded), or just
badly designed by modern emission standards (any idea how old it is?).
Sometimes, they actually emit more interference when used at a _low_
proportion of their rated load - or a different _kind_ of interference.

> Also the battery light which had been red, or flashing red, or blue
>when fully charged, is now not on at all! I thought the battery light
>was supposed to be always on with one color or another.
>
Well, there are as many schemes as models, but at a guess, what you're
calling the battery light indicates charging, or
fully-charged-but-external-power-still-connected; when external power is
_not_ connected, and the PC is off (or possibly in hibernate), I'd
expect that light to go off so as not to run down the battery (if, say,
you put it away in a drawer/cupboard for some weeks).
>
>>> I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
>>> lowered the demain on the power supply.

I think most SDDs do indeed use less power than most HDDs.
[]
>The other I gave to an 80-year old woman I know, but she never used it
>and later said she wants a tablet. This was in the summer when she
>spent a lot of time sitting on her porch watching people walk by, but
>now that it's cold, she might be happy sitting at a table with the
>laptop. I have to call her again.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

What a strange illusion it is to suppose that beauty is goodness. -Leo Tolstoy,
novelist and philosopher (1828-1910)

"J. P. Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Nov 2021 at 11:22:38, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
> (my responses usually follow points raised):
> >In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 25 Nov 2021 19:08:01 GMT, Frank Slootweg
> ><this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

[...]

> >> But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
> >>laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
> >>laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
> >>don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
> >>what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
> >>time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
> >>adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.
> >
> >I did this and after two days of sitting, it was still at 98 or 100%
> >charged, but then even with the charger connected, but more running than
> >the previous usage, it went back to alternating between those 3
> >statuses.
>
> Frank meant run it on battery only, to see what sort of state the
> battery is in (i. e. does it hold enough charge to actually be useful
> for other than carting the laptop from one room to another).
> []

Yes, that's what I meant:

Actually *run*/*use* the laptop while on battery, *not* just let it
"sitting" (which will only cause it to go to sleep/hibernate, i.e. use
little/no power from the battery).

[...]

"micky" wrote in message news:89dmpg5a8cjcfqenlpaub8esfs3hl156g2@4ax.com...
>
>I have a laptop, an Acer Aspire E 15 E5-573-35AQ
>
>and it worked fine last spring, running win 10 fully updated,
>
>but now I started it up, hoping to use it in January, and it has a
>problem.
>
>A) It beeps almost but not quite once a second. It continued to do this
>after 2 restarts, and it starts even before the lone, startup Windows
>logo first appears on the screen. Sometimes it stops for a little
>while but then it starts up again.
>
> I opened the volume mixer and there were two colunm, Speakers and
>System Sounds. Muting out both, Speakers second, stopped the sound for
>30 seconds, but then it started up again.
>
>What makes sound if everything is muted?
>
>I haven't tried everythig but Firefox Youtube works and it doesn't beep
>thenm until I put the video on pause and then it starts up again.
>
>????
Have you seen this:
https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/568242/laptop-is-beeping-at-me-continuously-apire-e15
Long thread and not sure if this link or idea, had been mentioned. Certain
'brands' of laptops have their 'own' beeps.
Buffalo

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 28 Nov 2021 02:10:04 +0000, "J. P.
Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote:

>On Fri, 26 Nov 2021 at 11:22:38, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
>(my responses usually follow points raised):
>>In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 25 Nov 2021 19:08:01 GMT, Frank Slootweg
>><this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>>micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>[]
>>> "Discharging, AC Power" indicates that the 'charger' (AC adapter)
>>>supplies less power than the laptop uses, so while it's on AC power,
>>>it's still discharging.
>>
>>That's what it sounded like, but I found it amazing, and so it takes a
>>while to sink in.
>
>See if the laptop has some indication on the label on the bottom how
>much current it expects to draw from an external supply.

Not that I can read. Some stuff is dark grey on black. ;-(

>[]
>>>> It's little and it's only 1.58 amps for a 15" screen. The ones they are
>>>> selling for this model are all 3.42 amps. A big difference. And it
>>>> has a 2-prong plug when the ones for sale now have 3 prongs.
>>>
>>> Yes, 1.58A is very little for a laptop. That's something like only
>>>30W (1.58A at probably some 19.5V). Most laptop adapters will be 65 or
>>>90W, i.e. two to three times what you have. (FYI, mine is 65W (for also
>>>a 15.6" laptop).)
>
>Yes, for this laptop - which is less than 15", not sure how much less
>(Toshiba protégé 700) - over 3 and a bit A on the 19V seems to be the
>norm. (The 3.15A one I had - so ~60W - just died; all the replacements
>seem to be more like 65W. 30W, especially for a 15", seems insufficient.
>[]
>>>> After being on and charging for a while when it got over 80 or 85%
>>>> charged it stopped beeping.
>
>Could be it draws less from the charger when nearing full, or could be
>it has the modification to the charging scheme that several
>manufacturers introduced which actually stops charging at 8x%, which
>makes the battery last longer (in years rather than minutes, I mean).
>>>>
>>>> Should I bother to buy the bigger charger???
>>>
>>> Yes, I think you should.
>
>Definitely.

Okay, I ordered a new charger, much bigger.
>>>
>>> But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
>>>laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
>>>laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
>>>don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
>>>what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
>>>time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
>>>adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.
>>
>>I did this and after two days of sitting, it was still at 98 or 100%
>>charged, but then even with the charger connected, but more running than
>>the previous usage, it went back to alternating between those 3
>>statuses.
>
>Frank meant run it on battery only, to see what sort of state the
>battery is in (i. e. does it hold enough charge to actually be useful
>for other than carting the laptop from one room to another).

Oh, okay. Yes I did that and it works well. except the charge % goes
down.

And thank you, Frank

>>So I woudln't have expected this to be a bigger load on the charger than
>>when only the OS and BatteryInfoView was running.
>>
>>And even though I'm touching nothing, the Power State changes in no
>>apparent order:
>> from Discharging, AC Power
>> to just plain Discharging (How come it doesn't show AC Power some of
>>the time? This is the biggest question in this post!!!)
>
>At a pure guess, the little charger has some sort of self-protection,
>and shuts off to protect itself, then comes back on. Could be it just

Sounds like a good guess. I didn't think of it. I guess I'm still
living in the 50's and expect it to be like the power supply for my
Lionel train. Nothing fancy like self-protection.

>detects it's having more than its rated maximum drawn for over some
>limit, or could just be overheating and protecting itself from that,
>then turning back on when it cools down. Does it get more than warm?
>There will probably be a light on the laptop showing when it's receiving
>external power - on mine it shows a plug and lead and is green.
>
>> to charging, AC Power, for short periods of time
>> and back to Discharging, AC Power.
>
>At a guess: comes back at its full rated output (or slightly more), then
>folds back to a lower level, then shuts itself off, then comes back ...

That follows too/

>>Also interesting is that right now instead of listening to webradio, I'm
>>listening to a real FM radio, on a strong station, and yet it makes
>>"static", some kinds of sound interference, for a second every time it
>>beeps. (Well FTR it did make static but it stopped. Then when I
>>closed the lid and it turned off, the red light is going on and off and
>>the static occurs as long as the red light is on.)
>
>Sounds like the supply is either unhappy (being overloaded), or just
>badly designed by modern emission standards (any idea how old it is?).

No, but I have a little Acer Aspire One with a power supply the same
size. I bought it on ebay but I think it came with the original power
supply. I could have tried it on this computer, but you have convinced
me to get the new power supply anyhow.

>Sometimes, they actually emit more interference when used at a _low_
>proportion of their rated load - or a different _kind_ of interference.

Hmm.

>> Also the battery light which had been red, or flashing red, or blue
>>when fully charged, is now not on at all! I thought the battery light
>>was supposed to be always on with one color or another.
>>
>Well, there are as many schemes as models, but at a guess, what you're
>calling the battery light indicates charging, or
>fully-charged-but-external-power-still-connected; when external power is
>_not_ connected, and the PC is off (or possibly in hibernate), I'd
>expect that light to go off so as not to run down the battery (if, say,
>you put it away in a drawer/cupboard for some weeks).

Okay. Good.

>>>> I had replaced the HDD with a solid state drive, and I thought that
>>>> lowered the demain on the power supply.
>
>I think most SDDs do indeed use less power than most HDDs.

Thanks for all the help.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 28 Nov 2021 11:13:31 GMT, Frank Slootweg
<this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

>"J. P. Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote:
>> On Fri, 26 Nov 2021 at 11:22:38, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
>> (my responses usually follow points raised):
>> >In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 25 Nov 2021 19:08:01 GMT, Frank Slootweg
>> ><this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:
>
>[...]
>
>> >> But FIRST try to charge the battery to (nearly) 100% by putting the
>> >>laptop in sleep (or hibernate or shutdown) mode and then check if the
>> >>laptop can run on that near-full battery for some reasonable time, i.e.
>> >>don't just look at what it *says* it should be able to do, but *test*
>> >>what it actually *can* do. If it actually does run for a reasonable
>> >>time, you know the battery is in reasonable condition and that the AC
>> >>adapter is just too small (in A/W) to do the job.
>> >
>> >I did this and after two days of sitting, it was still at 98 or 100%
>> >charged, but then even with the charger connected, but more running than
>> >the previous usage, it went back to alternating between those 3
>> >statuses.
>>
>> Frank meant run it on battery only, to see what sort of state the
>> battery is in (i. e. does it hold enough charge to actually be useful
>> for other than carting the laptop from one room to another).
>> []
>
> Yes, that's what I meant:
>
> Actually *run*/*use* the laptop while on battery, *not* just let it

Yes, I used it. Thanks, Frank

>"sitting" (which will only cause it to go to sleep/hibernate, i.e. use
>little/no power from the battery).
>
>[...]

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 28 Nov 2021 17:40:38 -0700, "Buffalo"
<phoney@physco.invalid.net> wrote:

>"micky" wrote in message news:89dmpg5a8cjcfqenlpaub8esfs3hl156g2@4ax.com...
>>
>>I have a laptop, an Acer Aspire E 15 E5-573-35AQ
>>
>>and it worked fine last spring, running win 10 fully updated,
>>
>>but now I started it up, hoping to use it in January, and it has a
>>problem.
>>
>>A) It beeps almost but not quite once a second. It continued to do this
>>after 2 restarts, and it starts even before the lone, startup Windows
>>logo first appears on the screen. Sometimes it stops for a little
>>while but then it starts up again.
>>
>> I opened the volume mixer and there were two colunm, Speakers and
>>System Sounds. Muting out both, Speakers second, stopped the sound for
>>30 seconds, but then it started up again.
>>
>>What makes sound if everything is muted?
>>
>>I haven't tried everythig but Firefox Youtube works and it doesn't beep
>>thenm until I put the video on pause and then it starts up again.
>>
>>????
>Have you seen this:
>https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/568242/laptop-is-beeping-at-me-continuously-apire-e15
>Long thread and not sure if this link or idea, had been mentioned. Certain
>'brands' of laptops have their 'own' beeps.
>Buffalo

Thanks. Certainly on point. I'm reading it now.

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
[...]

> No, but I have a little Acer Aspire One with a power supply the same
> size. I bought it on ebay but I think it came with the original power
> supply. I could have tried it on this computer, but you have convinced
> me to get the new power supply anyhow.

If the power supply is the original one for the Acer Aspire One, it is
indeed also way too small, only 1.58A at 19V, i.e. 30W, while you need
some 65W.

I still have two Acer Aspire One netbooks - one Linux and one Windows
XP - which were the first computers I took on the (rough dirt/gravel)
road. Nice little machines.

Anecdote: We were travelling some long lonely road (the Savannah Way
in Queensland) in Australia. Suddenly we saw a backpack in the middle of
the road. I opened it to see if I could identify the owner. The first
thing I saw was my computer! Dumbfounded, I checked that it was not
actually my computer, 'just' the exact same one in the same colour
(white)! What is the chance of *that*!? In the next town, some 100km
further, we saw some backpackers near a car. The backpack belonged to
one of the guys. Apparently the backdoor of their car had opened,
causing the backpack to fall out and they were too distracted by the
female backpackers to notice!

[...]

On Wed, 1 Dec 2021 at 03:42:28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote (my
responses usually follow points raised):
>In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 28 Nov 2021 02:10:04 +0000, "J. P.
>Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote:
[]
>>See if the laptop has some indication on the label on the bottom how
>>much current it expects to draw from an external supply.
>
>Not that I can read. Some stuff is dark grey on black. ;-(
>
And sometimes moulded text, i. e. black on black (-:. Probably worth
getting the magnifier out for though (or, these days, a
webcam-microscope, though that's probably _too_ close.)
[]
>Okay, I ordered a new charger, much bigger.

(I'm expecting one to arrive today too! Currently running on my
universal one [switchable voltages, assorted tips].)
[]
>>Frank meant run it on battery only, to see what sort of state the
>>battery is in (i. e. does it hold enough charge to actually be useful
>>for other than carting the laptop from one room to another).
>
>Oh, okay. Yes I did that and it works well. except the charge % goes
>down.

Any indication of how long the computer will run on the battery?
(Obviously depends on what you _do_, such as whether you have the wifi
on.) Useful to know whether it's a few minutes, half an hour or so, or
two or more hours, in case you ever need to go somewhere - to do
research, say (I do genealogy, and might like to trog round churchyards
looking at gravestones, though would probably just take a camera rather
than the computer). Or in case of power cuts.
[]
>>At a pure guess, the little charger has some sort of self-protection,
>>and shuts off to protect itself, then comes back on. Could be it just
>
>Sounds like a good guess. I didn't think of it. I guess I'm still
>living in the 50's and expect it to be like the power supply for my
>Lionel train. Nothing fancy like self-protection.

The old "transformer" for my Trix Express train set did have something -
I think it was a bimetallic strip! - that cut it out if it overheated.
[]
>No, but I have a little Acer Aspire One with a power supply the same
>size. I bought it on ebay but I think it came with the original power
>supply. I could have tried it on this computer, but you have convinced
>me to get the new power supply anyhow.

Probably wise. Sounds like the little one would be OK for charging the
battery (slowly) when the computer's off. But it wouldn't have been sold
with that one.
>
>>Sometimes, they actually emit more interference when used at a _low_
>>proportion of their rated load - or a different _kind_ of interference.
>
>Hmm.

Well, some types really only work at full power - so if being used at
only a fraction, they run at full power briefly, then shut off, and
repeat that cycle. Like your microwave oven on its lowest power setting.
Or at least, they emit a different _spectrum_ of interference depending
on load.
[]
>Thanks for all the help.

you're welcome - its mostly guesswork, though based on experience (and a
career in electronics - but never specifically power supplies; I just
was curious). Paul knows a lot more (about everything, at least anything
remotely computer-related!).
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

The presence of those seeking the truth is infinitely to be preferred to the
presence of those who think they've found it. TERRY PRATCHETT

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 1 Dec 2021 11:38:40 GMT, Frank Slootweg
<this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

>micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>[...]
>
>> No, but I have a little Acer Aspire One with a power supply the same
>> size. I bought it on ebay but I think it came with the original power
>> supply. I could have tried it on this computer, but you have convinced
>> me to get the new power supply anyhow.
>
> If the power supply is the original one for the Acer Aspire One, it is
>indeed also way too small, only 1.58A at 19V, i.e. 30W, while you need
>some 65W.
>
> I still have two Acer Aspire One netbooks - one Linux and one Windows
>XP - which were the first computers I took on the (rough dirt/gravel)
>road. Nice little machines.
>
> Anecdote: We were travelling some long lonely road (the Savannah Way
>in Queensland) in Australia. Suddenly we saw a backpack in the middle of
>the road. I opened it to see if I could identify the owner. The first
>thing I saw was my computer! Dumbfounded,

I'll bet.

> I checked that it was not
>actually my computer, 'just' the exact same one in the same colour
>(white)! What is the chance of *that*!? In the next town, some 100km
>further, we saw some backpackers near a car. The backpack belonged to
>one of the guys. Apparently the backdoor of their car had opened,
>causing the backpack to fall out and they were too distracted by the
>female backpackers to notice!

I like girls too but there's a limit. It's pretty amazing that you
found them.

Here is the closest story I have to yours. In college, I went home for
Thanksgiving and I left my bicycle chained to somethign at a little
shopping center near the IC railroad to go downtown to the bus station.

When I got back 4 days later, the bike was stolen. Chicago had separate
bicycle auctions every several months, with 100 or 200 bikes for sale,
and I bought myself a replacement for $10 (in 1965) that sold at retail
for $65, but this one had the flags of the US and Chicago on it, no
extra charge.

I enjoyed the (mild) excitement of the auction and in a later year, I
bought three of them, to sell at a profit to incoming students. But one
was so beautiful, I kept it. Gold, with a speedometer.

Time to leave Chicago, I sold the gold one but kept the speedometer.

I drove from Chicago to Brooklyn, twice, the second time with a trailer.
2 or 3 years later I finally get around to putting the speedometer on
the first $10 bike, but the inner cable, from the hub to the handlebar
unit, is missing. How could I have made a mistake like that. Did I
drop it while taking it off the bike, while packing in Chicago, while
unpacking? And how am I going to get another one without buying a
whole speedometer.

Later I go home to see my mother, who now lives in Allentown Pa. When
she sees a screw or nut on the floor, she'll pick it up because it
probably fell off somethign she owns. If she's not home, maybe she'll
pick it up, and she was shopping and in the parking lot of a strip mall
she found something, and her husband said, What do you want that for?
But she took it and figured I might want it. And when I came home she
gave it to me.

And it was the exact cable that went inside the cable sheath for my
speedometer. The right ends, the right length. As you put it, What is
the chance of *that*!?

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out, Maybe it was my original
cable. Trying to remember if I'd stopped in Allentown on the way to
Brooklyn and somehow lost my cable there, but I remember driving with
the trailer and I didn't stop there, didn't come within 50 miles, or the
other time.

On 12/1/2021 3:58 PM, micky wrote:
<snip>
> I spent a lot of time trying to figure out, Maybe it was my original
> cable. Trying to remember if I'd stopped in Allentown on the way to
> Brooklyn and somehow lost my cable there, but I remember driving with
> the trailer and I didn't stop there, didn't come within 50 miles, or the
> other time.

that is a great story.

In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Wed, 1 Dec 2021 16:28:23 -0800, Mike S
<mscir@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On 12/1/2021 3:58 PM, micky wrote:
><snip>
>> I spent a lot of time trying to figure out, Maybe it was my original
>> cable. Trying to remember if I'd stopped in Allentown on the way to
>> Brooklyn and somehow lost my cable there, but I remember driving with
>> the trailer and I didn't stop there, didn't come within 50 miles, or the
>> other time.
>
>that is a great story.

Thanks. And I forgot to say what we all know, how few bicycle
speedometers like that there were.

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
> In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 1 Dec 2021 11:38:40 GMT, Frank Slootweg
> <this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:
[...]

> > I still have two Acer Aspire One netbooks - one Linux and one Windows
> >XP - which were the first computers I took on the (rough dirt/gravel)
> >road. Nice little machines.
> >
> > Anecdote: We were travelling some long lonely road (the Savannah Way
> >in Queensland) in Australia. Suddenly we saw a backpack in the middle of
> >the road. I opened it to see if I could identify the owner. The first
> >thing I saw was my computer! Dumbfounded,
>
> I'll bet.
>
> > I checked that it was not
> >actually my computer, 'just' the exact same one in the same colour
> >(white)! What is the chance of *that*!? In the next town, some 100km
> >further, we saw some backpackers near a car. The backpack belonged to
> >one of the guys. Apparently the backdoor of their car had opened,
> >causing the backpack to fall out and they were too distracted by the
> >female backpackers to notice!
>
> I like girls too but there's a limit. It's pretty amazing that you
> found them.

Well, I used the term "town", because it's what the Aussies do, but we
(Dutch) would call it a village and a small one at that. This "town" was
probably just a single street with some houses, a petrol station ('gas
station' for You Guys TM) and a (small) road house, etc.. So it wasn't
hard to spot a car with some backpackers, especially the usual kind and
with (too?) much hormones.

So in case you ever go to an outback area in Australia: Two houses is
a town. Ten houses is a large town. :-)

> Here is the closest story I have to yours.
[Rest deleted.]

Yes, that is a nice one as well. Thanks.