On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
>> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
>>
>> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
>> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
>>>>>
>>>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
>>>>>
>>>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
>>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
>>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
>>>> of hinge.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jack
>>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>>
>>> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
>>>
>>> Bob
> Thanks, Leon
>
> I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>> te:
>>>>
>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>> =20
>>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Good job.
>>>
>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>
>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>> a bonus.
>
>
>
>Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
>screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
>surface, that you are repairing. ;(

Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?
>
>And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
>taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
>plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
>PIA.

On 1/3/2022 10:44 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
> <wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>>> wrote:
>>>> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
>>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>>> te:
>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>>> =20
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>> Good job.
>>>>
>>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>>> a bonus.
>>
>> I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.
>
> I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
> never had any luck cutting them myself.

Were you using a drill press? If the bit or wood tilts the plug will
break and jam in the cutter. And don't spin too fast. Friction causes
the plug to expand, break and jam the cutter.

AND you have to sneak up on how deep to cut. Any thing past just
beginning to round the bottom end/the surface, past the taper, will
break and jam the plug too.

Once you learn what not to do, LOL, it works great!

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:57:57 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 1/3/2022 10:44 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
>> <wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
>>>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>>>> te:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>>>> =20
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Good job.
>>>>>
>>>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>>>> a bonus.
>>>
>>> I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.
>>
>> I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
>> never had any luck cutting them myself.
>
>Were you using a drill press? If the bit or wood tilts the plug will
>break and jam in the cutter. And don't spin too fast. Friction causes
>the plug to expand, break and jam the cutter.

The sides are too rough to use.
>
>AND you have to sneak up on how deep to cut. Any thing past just
>beginning to round the bottom end/the surface, past the taper, will
>break and jam the plug too.
>
>Once you learn what not to do, LOL, it works great!

On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>>> te:
>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>>> =20
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>> Good job.
>>>>
>>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>>
>>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>>> a bonus.
>>
>>
>>
>> Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
>> screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
>> surface, that you are repairing. ;(
>
> Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?

Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
closely match grain and color.

After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the
surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
finish sand.

>>
>> And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
>> taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
>> plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
>> PIA.

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 11:19:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>>>> te:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>>>> =20
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Good job.
>>>>>
>>>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>>>
>>>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>>>> a bonus.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
>>> screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
>>> surface, that you are repairing. ;(
>>
>> Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?
>
>Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
>closely match grain and color.

But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
is fine. ;-)

>After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
>off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the
>surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
>finish sand.
>
>
>
>
>>>
>>> And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
>>> taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
>>> plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
>>> PIA.

On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 11:19:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:
>>>>>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
>>>>>>> te:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
>>>>>>>> =20
>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Good job.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
>>>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
>>>>>
>>>>> Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
>>>>> a bonus.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
>>>> screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
>>>> surface, that you are repairing. ;(
>>>
>>> Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?
>>
>> Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
>> closely match grain and color.
>
> But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
> screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
> possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
> a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
> is fine. ;-)

So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
plug cutter of some sort.

Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
hole to receive a screw.

>
>> After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
>> off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the
>> surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
>> finish sand.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>
>>>> And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
>>>> taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
>>>> plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
>>>> PIA.

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:02:51 AM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 12:14:59 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:
> > On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
> > <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > >On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> > >> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:
> > >> >On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail..com wro=
> > >> >te:
> > >> >
> > >> >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
> > >> >>=20
> > >> >> Bob
> > >> >
> > >> >Good job.
> > >>
> > >> Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
> > >> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.
> > >
> > >Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.
> > A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
> > I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.
> Yes, I understand the strength issues. Apparently, I am looking at my dowels wrong. I will see if I can post some closeup pictures of my dowels and seek an opinion.
>
> Thank you,
> Bob

I am always willing to admit a mistake, especially in this conference. My dowels are end grain.

Bob

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
> > On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> >> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
> >> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
> >>
> >> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
> >> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> >>>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
> >>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
> >>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
> >>>> of hinge.
> >>>>
> >>>> --
> >>>> Jack
> >>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
> >>>
> >>> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> > Thanks, Leon
> >
> > I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.
> >
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu
> Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
> chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

Great idea. I will see what I can do. I sure would like a reliable vix bit for these small hinges. The other bits work great for larger applications..

Bob

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
> > On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> >> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
> >> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
> >>
> >> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
> >> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> >>>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
> >>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
> >>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
> >>>> of hinge.
> >>>>
> >>>> --
> >>>> Jack
> >>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
> >>>
> >>> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> > Thanks, Leon
> >
> > I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.
> >
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu
> Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
> chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

Unfortunately, the smallest bit got bent in drop to the concrete. I ran across this in an amazon review:

"I use these for the very small sizes on Jewelry and Keepsake boxes. I found that the three smallest bits do not have a tapered end (visible if you zoom in on the picture, so I presume they all come that way), HOWEVER, I was able to easily remove the barrel and O-spring, then place it into a drill press chuck and then use a file to put my own taper on the end. This allows the bit end to 'hold' itself in the 1/16 and 5/64 holes much better. It only took about two minutes per bit to fix and it was easy with a drill press and file. I hope this helps some else too, because I wasn't to happy with my first impression, but since it was so easy to fix, I'm giving 5 stars instead of three. I like how they can be taken apart easily, too for changing bits, etc. I'd certainly buy these again or maybe get a second set."

So I ordered the set and will see how the drill press/file fix works.

Bob

On 1/3/2022 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

>> But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
>> screw stripped it out.  I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
>> possible.  Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
>> a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction.  The color
>> is fine.  ;-)

> So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
> plug cutter of some sort.
>
> Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
> hole to receive a screw

Another solution would be to fill the hole with epoxy like JBWeld. I
recently watched the guy that tests everything on YouTube and JBWeld
(and others) could resist over 1000lb pull on a screw drilled into solid
epoxy. JBWeld tested at or near the top in all tests and was the
cheapest per ounce.

I never tried it but based on what I saw, it should work easily for this
use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3r0UZ7txzs
Tensile test results at 8:36
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

On Wednesday, January 5, 2022 at 9:02:51 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> On 1/3/2022 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:
> > On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>
> >> But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
> >> screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
> >> possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
> >> a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
> >> is fine. ;-)
>
> > So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
> > plug cutter of some sort.
> >
> > Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
> > hole to receive a screw
> Another solution would be to fill the hole with epoxy like JBWeld. I
> recently watched the guy that tests everything on YouTube and JBWeld
> (and others) could resist over 1000lb pull on a screw drilled into solid
> epoxy. JBWeld tested at or near the top in all tests and was the
> cheapest per ounce.
>
> I never tried it but based on what I saw, it should work easily for this
> use.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3r0UZ7txzs
> Tensile test results at 8:36
> --
> Jack
> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

thanks, Jack. That is good information. I used JB weld one time to repair the broken cast frame on a bench grinder. I did not have much faith that it would work. It did! I could not break it after that and I tried with a sledge hammer.

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
> > On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> >> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
> >> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
> >>
> >> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
> >> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
> >>>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> >>>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
> >>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
> >>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
> >>>> of hinge.
> >>>>
> >>>> --
> >>>> Jack
> >>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
> >>>
> >>> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> > Thanks, Leon
> >
> > I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.
> >
> > https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu
> Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
> chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

I bought another vixbit set and chucked the smallest bit into the drill press at 3600 rpm. Using a mill file, I created a perfectly smooth, perfectly centered taper that works great with my small hinges. I will pay more attention to the fit for vixbits to the job at hand, then file accordingly. This was a great learning experience.

On 1/8/2022 3:34 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>>>> According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
>>>> holes, for #3 and #4 screws.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
>>>> On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>>>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
>>>>>>> One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly right.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are the photos:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>> You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
>>>>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
>>>>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
>>>>>> of hinge.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Jack
>>>>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>> Thanks, Leon
>>>
>>> I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.
>>>
>>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu
>> Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
>> chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)
>
> I bought another vixbit set and chucked the smallest bit into the drill press at 3600 rpm. Using a mill file, I created a perfectly smooth, perfectly centered taper that works great with my small hinges. I will pay more attention to the fit for vixbits to the job at hand, then file accordingly. This was a great learning experience.

Necessity is the mother of invention!