Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

Top and one leg:

https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
decent for a basement family room type setting.

Thanks!

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>
>I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>
>Top and one leg:
>
>https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>
>The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>
>https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>
>The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>
>I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>
>I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>decent for a basement family room type setting.
>
>Thanks!

Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
the dark imperfections become "character".
Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
to allow a bit of experimenting ?
John T.

On 4/10/2022 10:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>
> I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>
> Top and one leg:
>
> https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>
> The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

I like your idea of going with a dark stain (or--see below); I can't see
why you would go with light colored stain on this. It seem like that
would just magnify any imperfections that may be present. You know more
than I do;
that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider
"painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might
complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
: )
Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.

-Bill

>
> https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>
> The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>
> I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>
> I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> decent for a basement family room type setting.
>
> Thanks!

On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 11:15:51 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> On 4/10/2022 10:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
> >
> > I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> > authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> > The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
> >
> > Top and one leg:
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
> >
> > The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> > bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> > because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
> I like your idea of going with a dark stain (or--see below);

It is not my intent to go with a dark stain.

> I can't see
> why you would go with light colored stain on this. It seem like that
> would just magnify any imperfections that may be present. You know more
> than I do;

A dark piece would not match the decor of the room. That is mainly why
the owner wants it lighter.

> that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider
> "painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
> red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
> painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might
> complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
> : )
> Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
> is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.

I'm not trying to fix the "damage" (i.e. character) I'm simply trying to get
the piece to a more uniform color so that the remains of the dark stain
doesn't show through whatever new finish is used. To be honest, I'm not
even sure if wood bleach would do that, which is why I asked.

>
> -Bill
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
> >
> > The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> > clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> > stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> > "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> > Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
> >
> > I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
> >
> > I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> > to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> > I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> > decent for a basement family room type setting.
> >
> > Thanks!

On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>
> I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>
> Top and one leg:
>
> https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>
> The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>
> The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>
> I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>
> I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> decent for a basement family room type setting.
>
> Thanks!

It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
have to take.
I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.

I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.

Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
blotchey.

Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
will give it a natural darker warm appearance.

If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this
technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.

When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.

On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 12:31:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
> >
> > I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> > authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> > The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
> >
> > Top and one leg:
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
> >
> > The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> > bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> > because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
> >
> > The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> > clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> > stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> > "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> > Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
> >
> > I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
> >
> > I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> > to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> > I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> > decent for a basement family room type setting.
> >
> > Thanks!
> It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
> guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
> the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
> put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

I agree with the third officer plaque not being part of the original but that
plaque screws onto this semi-circular bar that through-bolts into a U-shaped
groove above the center recess. The curved bottom of the bar sure does make
it seem like a handle. I assume that the "handle" is original to the piece and the
plaque was added later to give the table a "nautical look".

https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uzghHpT.jpg

The bolts are the same as the 28 bolts that hold the bottom layer to the top. The
bottom is solid, with no indication that anything except the legs was ever attached
to it, so I'm not sure that is was a spool. In addition, the bolts (and nuts) extend
beyond the bottom which would be a hindrance to anything being wound onto the
spool. Not that any of that matters, just conversation. ;-)

https://i.imgur.com/Rum2LMB.jpg

>
> Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
> have to take.
> I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
> or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
> If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
> spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.
>
> I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.
>
> Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
> the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
> likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
> blotchey.
>
> Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
> will give it a natural darker warm appearance.
>
> If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
> be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

"Boat load"? A intentional pun or just coincidence?

>
> OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
> to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
> I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
> wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this
> technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
> or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.
>
> When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
> it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
> wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
> This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.

Thanks.

re: "I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
wet everywhere."

I assume that this statement means that you are trying to have it appear to
have a wet surface everywhere and that overworking it leaves dry-looking
spots.

(It could sort of be read the other way around, so while I'm pretty sure I
know what you mean, I want to be *really* sure.)

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:15:12 -0400, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:

>On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
>
>>Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>>
>>I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>>The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>>
>>Top and one leg:
>>
>>https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>>
>>https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>>
>>https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>>
>>The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>>bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>>
>>https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>>
>>https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>>
>>The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>>
>>I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>>
>>I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>>to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>>decent for a basement family room type setting.
>>
>>Thanks!
>
>Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
> If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
> ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
>If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
>areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
>the dark imperfections become "character".
>Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
>to allow a bit of experimenting ?

My inclination would be to go after the remaining dark areas with a
Dremel. For that recess I agree, template and router would be a good
option.

On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:15:12 -0400, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
>
> >On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> ><teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >
> >>Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
> >>
> >>I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> >>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> >>The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
> >>
> >>Top and one leg:
> >>
> >>https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
> >>
> >>https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
> >>
> >>https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
> >>
> >>The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> >>bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> >>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
> >>
> >>https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
> >>
> >>https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
> >>
> >>The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> >>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> >>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> >>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> >>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
> >>
> >>I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
> >>
> >>I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> >>to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> >>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> >>decent for a basement family room type setting.
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >
> >Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
> > If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
> > ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
> >If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
> >areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
> >the dark imperfections become "character".
> >Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
> >to allow a bit of experimenting ?
> My inclination would be to go after the remaining dark areas with a
> Dremel. For that recess I agree, template and router would be a good
> option.

The Dremel for the bolt holes might work. Thanks.

I bought some flap wheel sanders for my drill press recently. I used them
on the curved sections of the legs and they worked pretty well.

For the center recess, I might take a shot with them in my hand drill
and see what happens.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>
>I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>
>Top and one leg:
>
>https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>
>The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>
>https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>
>https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>
>The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>
>I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>
>I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>decent for a basement family room type setting.

An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:31:26 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>>
>> I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>> authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>> The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>>
>> Top and one leg:
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>>
>> The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>> bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>> because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>>
>> The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>> clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>> "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>>
>> I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>>
>> I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>> to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>> I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>> decent for a basement family room type setting.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
>guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
>the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
>put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

Sure it is. It goes with captain's chairs.

>Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
>have to take.
>I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
>or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
>If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
>spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.
>
>I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.
>
>Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
>the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
>likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
>blotchey.
>
>Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
>will give it a natural darker warm appearance.
>
>If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
>be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

How about one of the penetrating epoxies. If you want to get really
crass, a deep pour epoxy would preserve it. That is, unless it's left
out in the sun, then nothing will help. Maybe a sheet of glass.

>OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
>to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
>I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
>wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this
>technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
>or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.
>
>When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
>it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
>wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
> This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.
>
>

On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
> >
> >I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
> >
> >Top and one leg:
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
> >
> >The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
> >
> >The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
> >
> >I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
> >
> >I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
> An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
> around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
> bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
want to know what to expect.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>> >
>> >I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>> >
>> >Top and one leg:
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>> >
>> >The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>> >
>> >The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>> >
>> >I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>> >
>> >I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
>> An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
>> around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
>> bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).
>
>Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.
>
>Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
>remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
>want to know what to expect.

Reading material
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/

On 4/10/2022 12:59 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 12:31:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>>>
>>> I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>>> authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>>> The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>>>
>>> Top and one leg:
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>>>
>>> The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>>> bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>>> because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>>>
>>> The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>>> clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>>> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>>> "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>>> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>>>
>>> I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>>>
>>> I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>>> to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>>> I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>>> decent for a basement family room type setting.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>> It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
>> guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
>> the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
>> put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.
>
> I agree with the third officer plaque not being part of the original but that
> plaque screws onto this semi-circular bar that through-bolts into a U-shaped
> groove above the center recess. The curved bottom of the bar sure does make
> it seem like a handle. I assume that the "handle" is original to the piece and the
> plaque was added later to give the table a "nautical look".
>
> https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg
>
> https://i.imgur.com/uzghHpT.jpg
>
> The bolts are the same as the 28 bolts that hold the bottom layer to the top. The
> bottom is solid, with no indication that anything except the legs was ever attached
> to it, so I'm not sure that is was a spool. In addition, the bolts (and nuts) extend
> beyond the bottom which would be a hindrance to anything being wound onto the
> spool. Not that any of that matters, just conversation. ;-)
>
> https://i.imgur.com/Rum2LMB.jpg
>
>>
>> Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
>> have to take.
>> I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
>> or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
>> If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
>> spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.
>>
>> I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.
>>
>> Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
>> the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
>> likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
>> blotchey.
>>
>> Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
>> will give it a natural darker warm appearance.
>>
>> If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
>> be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.
>
> "Boat load"? A intentional pun or just coincidence?

;~0 I thought that would came back. Coincidence. The the name plate
spot appears that perhaps an axle of some sort wint through the big hole
and something like a roll pin through the axle to engage the surface.
To perhaps wind cable back up on a spool.

>
>>
>> OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
>> to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
>> I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
>> wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this
>> technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
>> or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.
>>
>> When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
>> it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
>> wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
>> This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.
>
> Thanks.
>
> re: "I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
> wet everywhere."

That is what I was trying to say.

>
> I assume that this statement means that you are trying to have it appear to
> have a wet surface everywhere and that overworking it leaves dry-looking
> spots.

Precisely. Thinking back, I think I applied with a rag for the first
coat, and wipe off excess, and to seal the wood. And then a second/last
coat with the foam brush. Easier to get and keep that wet look if the
surface is already sealed. Don't worry with how the rag coat looks, dry
or wet. Let the first coat dry to the touch.

The Wooster foam brush will lay down a thick coat.

>
> (It could sort of be read the other way around, so while I'm pretty sure I
> know what you mean, I want to be *really* sure.)
>
>
>

On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> >Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
> >> >
> >> >I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
> >> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
> >> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
> >> >
> >> >Top and one leg:
> >> >
> >> >https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
> >> >
> >> >https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
> >> >
> >> >https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
> >> >
> >> >The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
> >> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
> >> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
> >> >
> >> >https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
> >> >
> >> >https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
> >> >
> >> >The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
> >> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
> >> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
> >> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
> >> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
> >> >
> >> >I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
> >> >
> >> >I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
> >> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
> >> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
> >> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
> >> An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
> >> around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
> >> bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).
> >
> >Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.
> >
> >Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
> >remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
> >want to know what to expect.
> Reading material
> https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/

As far I can tell Oxalic Acid will not remove the remaining *finishing* stain in
the crevices, just water stains or other stain caused by iron.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 17:25:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>> >On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >> >Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>> >> >
>> >> >I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>> >> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>> >> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>> >> >
>> >> >Top and one leg:
>> >> >
>> >> >https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>> >> >
>> >> >https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>> >> >
>> >> >https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>> >> >
>> >> >The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>> >> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>> >> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>> >> >
>> >> >https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>> >> >
>> >> >https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>> >> >
>> >> >The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>> >> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>> >> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>> >> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>> >> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>> >> >
>> >> >I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>> >> >
>> >> >I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>> >> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>> >> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>> >> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
>> >> An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
>> >> around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
>> >> bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).
>> >
>> >Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.
>> >
>> >Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
>> >remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
>> >want to know what to expect.
>> Reading material
>> https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/
>
>As far I can tell Oxalic Acid will not remove the remaining *finishing* stain in
>the crevices, just water stains or other stain caused by iron.

If you wipe it down with mineral spirits how does it look?

On 4/10/2022 12:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 11:15:51 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:

>> that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider
>> "painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
>> red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
>> painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might
>> complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
>> : )
>> Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
>> is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.
>
> I'm not trying to fix the "damage" (i.e. character) I'm simply trying to get
> the piece to a more uniform color so that the remains of the dark stain
> doesn't show through whatever new finish is used. To be honest, I'm not
> even sure if wood bleach would do that, which is why I asked.

I understand. I think you face a tough task and I wish you luck with it.
Only you and the owner appreciate the value, sentimental and otherwise,
of this piece, and what you are willing to invest to save or preserve
it. It reminds me a little of a cute old lamp that I picked up for $7
at an auction. After I replaced the socket, the ("lamp") cord and the
shade it's cost was closer to something like $42--but it's a cute little
lamp.
I put lamp cord in italics, because I had never hear of "lamp cord" and
presumed I could use an extension cord (nope, it didn't fit). : )

Couple of observations:
1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
2) The top boards seem older, used, well worn, multiple "defects", whereas the bottom boards have none. The bottom boards may have been added to the original piece.
3) Why would round head nails in the top boards be needed if there are lots of bolts.... and there seem to be no nails in the bottom boards?
4) It looks like fir to me. Oak has tannins that would react to the nails/bolts causing blackness. The blackness shown on the boards doesn't appear to be the blackness you'd see if it were oak-metal reaction. I think that blackness/darkness is rust stains combined with the blackish stain-stuff that you sanded off. Dab a bit of Oxalic acid on a small (rust stain?) spot and see what happens.
5) Cleaning out those crevices may require a bit of tedious hand scraping/sanding and the like. Probably limited success with using power tools, but worth a try on some areas.
6) Third Officer plate not original. I think the cavity it fits into would be a more precise fit, if so.

Neat project, though. I would enjoy doing it. It reminds me of a round Spanish Cedar bench I want to redo..... similarly, has the T&G mating edges.. Re: bottom side view of your project.... I like your old looking work cabinet behind the table.

Sonny

On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
> Couple of observations:
> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
on old ships.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch

> 2) The top boards seem older, used, well worn, multiple "defects", whereas the bottom boards have none. The bottom boards may have been added to the original piece.

I would expect the exposed top to be more worn than the bottom, whether it was a hatch, a table, a spool.
If the bottom was added afterwards, whoever did it took care to match the T&G quite nicely. It's hard to tell
from the image (angle, etc.) but the size and placement are within a 1/32" in both size and placement. In
addition, the wood seems to be the same in type, thickness and age.

https://i.imgur.com/uuC87V9.jpg

Granted, many of the hatch covers in the images linked to above are "single thickness" but that doesn't mean they
all were.

> 3) Why would round head nails in the top boards be needed if there are lots of bolts.... and there seem to be no nails in the bottom boards?

There's lots of nails on the bottom. Maybe the nails are original and the bolts were added later or maybe they were
the builder's version of Norm's "just a few brads" to hold it together while the holes were drilled and bolts inserted.
Overkill, yes, but overbuilt is sometimes ok, especially on a ship.

https://i.imgur.com/cb0D57w.jpg

> 4) It looks like fir to me. Oak has tannins that would react to the nails/bolts causing blackness. The blackness shown on the boards doesn't appear to be the blackness you'd see if it were oak-metal reaction. I think that blackness/darkness is rust stains combined with the blackish stain-stuff that you sanded off. Dab a bit of Oxalic acid on a small (rust stain?) spot and see what happens.

I'm leaning towards fir also, based on the end-grain pattern

> 5) Cleaning out those crevices may require a bit of tedious hand scraping/sanding and the like. Probably limited success with using power tools, but worth a try on some areas.

Tru dat.

> 6) Third Officer plate not original. I think the cavity it fits into would be a more precise fit, if so.

I'm in agreement that the plate is not original, but the "handle bar" underneath it has a very precise fit
(other than the round ends) and uses the same bolts as the ones out in the field, leading me to think
that even the field bolts are original. Admittedly, the round over on the top wouldn't make it a great
hatch cover, but that may have been added when it was turned into a table. Adding a nautical style
name plate to a ship's hatch cover as a design feature sure does make a lot of sense. It certainly
dresses up the flat handle bar a lot.

In addition, the center recess extends well into the lower boards. Even if the table was made from pieces
of wood from old hatches, I can't think of why they would have recessed the bottom piece also.

I filled the cavity with scrapes and even with my smallish hands, it's hard to fully grab the handle with just a hole in the top
boards. The extra depth is almost required, once again leading me to think that the top and bottom have always been part
of the piece.

https://i.imgur.com/fKk9P3S.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

>
> Neat project, though. I would enjoy doing it. It reminds me of a round Spanish Cedar bench I want to redo..... similarly, has the T&G mating edges. Re: bottom side view of your project.... I like your old looking work cabinet behind the table.
>
Ha! That's actually an old dresser. Big drawers hold lots of stuff. They've needed some reinforcement over the years,
but it's a solid piece that supports that counter top quite nicely.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.
>> >
>> >I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
>> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
>> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.
>> >
>> >Top and one leg:
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg
>> >
>> >The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
>> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
>> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg
>> >
>> >https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg
>> >
>> >The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
>> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
>> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
>> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
>> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?
>> >
>> >I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?
>> >
>> >I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
>> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
>> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
>> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
>> An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
>> around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
>> bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).
>
>Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.
>
>Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
>remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
>want to know what to expect.

IME, it'll significantly lighten the color.

On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
>> Couple of observations:
>> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
>
> Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
> on old ships.
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch

Looks more like this to me.

https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
> >> Couple of observations:
> >> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
> >
> > Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
> > on old ships.
> >
> > https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
> Looks more like this to me.
>
> https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
side)

https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

On Tue, 12 Apr 2022 13:14:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
>> >> Couple of observations:
>> >> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
>> >
>> > Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
>> > on old ships.
>> >
>> > https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
>> Looks more like this to me.
>>
>> https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391
>
>Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)
>
>I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:
>
>The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
>The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
>side)
>
>https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
>
>Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?
>
>There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
>layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
>sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

It is not centered in the piece right? At first I thought of a spool
but your first post it looked off center. You could sell as a hobbit
door, but I think a hatch is more likely.

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 5:29:48 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Apr 2022 13:14:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
> >> >> Couple of observations:
> >> >> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
> >> >
> >> > Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
> >> > on old ships.
> >> >
> >> > https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
> >> Looks more like this to me.
> >>
> >> https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391
> >
> >Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)
> >
> >I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:
> >
> >The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
> >The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
> >side)
> >
> >https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
> >
> >Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?
> >
> >There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
> >layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
> >sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.
> It is not centered in the piece right? At first I thought of a spool
> but your first post it looked off center. You could sell as a hobbit
> door, but I think a hatch is more likely.

Perfectly centered

On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
>>>> Couple of observations:
>>>> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
>>>
>>> Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
>>> on old ships.
>>>
>>> https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
>> Looks more like this to me.
>>
>> https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391
>
> Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)
>
> I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:
>
> The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
> The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
> side)
>
> https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the
middle?

>
> Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?
>

Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.

> There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
> layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
> sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.
>
The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
appears to have had in your first picture.

https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable

On 4/13/2022 10:55 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
>>>>> Couple of observations:
>>>>> 1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool
>>>>> with T&G mating edges of the boards.
>>>>
>>>> Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are
>>>> common traits of hatch covers
>>>> on old ships.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
>>> Looks more like this to me.
>>>
>>> https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391
>>>
>>
>> Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)
>>
>> I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain
>> this:
>>
>> The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle
>> on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
>> The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated
>> slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
>> side)
>>
>> https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
>
> All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
> edge/corner.  And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the
> middle?
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>> Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the
>> handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?
>>
>
> Yes.  It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain
>> away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
>> layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that
>> extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
>> sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.
>>
> The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
> name plate.  There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
> nautical.  Not all spools have or need an axle support plate.  I do not
> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.
>
> Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
> appears to have had in your first picture.
>
>
> https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable

Notice here the nautical compass theme used on this spool converted to
be used as a table.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205828645446108676/