On 6/29/2022 6:20 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
> On 6/29/2022 6:40 PM, AMuzi wrote:
>> On 6/29/2022 1:40 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>>>
>>> I had the same experience with a friend's string trimmer,
>>> except that carburetor was even cheaper. Removing the pretty
>>> plastic covering was more work than the rest of the job.
>>>
>>> But I'm afraid the experience would be much different with a
>>> car's carburetor.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> You would be correct.
>>
>> Typically, here are used/rebuilt not new:
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/324851423296
>
> Yow.
>
> Totally off-topic, but what are Corsa enthusiasts saying
> these days about carbs misbehaving in hard cornering? I
> recall one hill climb time trial when my Corsa lost power
> badly on a hard turn. Some guys were telling me a trick with
> Bic pen tubing that was supposed to solve that. Others
> talked about rotating the carbs 90 degrees.
>
> I didn't experience the problem often enough to bother
> fixing it. And I probably couldn't have afforded anything
> pricier than the Bic tubing.
>
> (Ran into an old 'Vair buddy last week. He talked my ear off
> about our cars.)
>
>

It's an actual problem for extreme drivers (and similar
troubles with a lot of cars in that era).

I machined the heads and turned the carbs 90 degrees many
years ago (mid 1990s) for #1 e4ngine. Despite a great big
pile of money and time and another long process to make fuel
lines and throttle controls it's been great!

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/4carbs.jpg

For those familiar with the layout, that photo shows
everything's a bit 'different'. Those are also four
primaries rather than the stock 2+2.

Web search shows _many_ Corsa 140 engines modified in many
clever and varied ways. Here's a stock 140 for comparison:

http://smclassiccars.com/uploads/postfotos/1965-corvair-corsa-convertible-needs-engine-rebuild-5.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Thursday, June 30, 2022 at 1:14:55 AM UTC+2, Frank Krygowski wrote:

> This is a tiny point, but I've always found a white background extremely
> valuable when truing wheels. Andrew, you're the only person I've known
> of who mentioned that tip.

Huh? I find my white (ish) floor tiles always very helpful to center the calipers and/or truing the disks.

Lou

On 6/29/2022 8:30 PM, AMuzi wrote:
> On 6/29/2022 6:20 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>> On 6/29/2022 6:40 PM, AMuzi wrote:
>>> On 6/29/2022 1:40 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I had the same experience with a friend's string trimmer,
>>>> except that carburetor was even cheaper. Removing the pretty
>>>> plastic covering was more work than the rest of the job.
>>>>
>>>> But I'm afraid the experience would be much different with a
>>>> car's carburetor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> You would be correct.
>>>
>>> Typically, here are used/rebuilt not new:
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/324851423296
>>
>> Yow.
>>
>> Totally off-topic, but what are Corsa enthusiasts saying
>> these days about carbs misbehaving in hard cornering? I
>> recall one hill climb time trial when my Corsa lost power
>> badly on a hard turn. Some guys were telling me a trick with
>> Bic pen tubing that was supposed to solve that. Others
>> talked about rotating the carbs 90 degrees.
>>
>> I didn't experience the problem often enough to bother
>> fixing it. And I probably couldn't have afforded anything
>> pricier than the Bic tubing.
>>
>> (Ran into an old 'Vair buddy last week. He talked my ear off
>> about our cars.)
>>
>>
>
> It's an actual problem for extreme drivers (and similar troubles with a
> lot of cars in that era).
>
> I machined the heads and turned the carbs 90 degrees many years ago (mid
> 1990s) for #1 e4ngine. Despite a great big pile of money and time and
> another long process to make fuel lines and throttle controls it's been
> great!
>
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/4carbs.jpg

I'm impressed. I imagine the linkage project would have been really
challenging.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 6/30/2022 1:29 AM, Lou Holtman wrote:
> On Thursday, June 30, 2022 at 1:14:55 AM UTC+2, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>
>> This is a tiny point, but I've always found a white background extremely
>> valuable when truing wheels. Andrew, you're the only person I've known
>> of who mentioned that tip.
>
>
> Huh? I find my white (ish) floor tiles always very helpful to center the calipers and/or truing the disks.

If I had white floor tiles, I'm sure I'd find them helpful. But my shop
floor is dark grey concrete and my cramped workbench is dark brown. So
white paper as a temporary background is helpful when truing wheels.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 6/30/2022 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
> On 6/29/2022 8:30 PM, AMuzi wrote:
>> On 6/29/2022 6:20 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>>> On 6/29/2022 6:40 PM, AMuzi wrote:
>>>> On 6/29/2022 1:40 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I had the same experience with a friend's string trimmer,
>>>>> except that carburetor was even cheaper. Removing the
>>>>> pretty
>>>>> plastic covering was more work than the rest of the job.
>>>>>
>>>>> But I'm afraid the experience would be much different
>>>>> with a
>>>>> car's carburetor.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You would be correct.
>>>>
>>>> Typically, here are used/rebuilt not new:
>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/324851423296
>>>
>>> Yow.
>>>
>>> Totally off-topic, but what are Corsa enthusiasts saying
>>> these days about carbs misbehaving in hard cornering? I
>>> recall one hill climb time trial when my Corsa lost power
>>> badly on a hard turn. Some guys were telling me a trick with
>>> Bic pen tubing that was supposed to solve that. Others
>>> talked about rotating the carbs 90 degrees.
>>>
>>> I didn't experience the problem often enough to bother
>>> fixing it. And I probably couldn't have afforded anything
>>> pricier than the Bic tubing.
>>>
>>> (Ran into an old 'Vair buddy last week. He talked my ear off
>>> about our cars.)
>>>
>>>
>>
>> It's an actual problem for extreme drivers (and similar
>> troubles with a lot of cars in that era).
>>
>> I machined the heads and turned the carbs 90 degrees many
>> years ago (mid 1990s) for #1 e4ngine. Despite a great big
>> pile of money and time and another long process to make
>> fuel lines and throttle controls it's been great!
>>
>> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/4carbs.jpg
>
> I'm impressed. I imagine the linkage project would have been
> really challenging.
>
>
>

Bronze pillow blocks and drill rod.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 6/28/2022 3:52 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
> Today I got a call from a parishioner asking about fixing his wheel because a spoke broke. It is an 8 spd town type bike for getting around. Weighs a ton but rides fine and works. He said he took the back wheel in to the LBS and they said well you just need a new rear wheel we can for maybe like $200. So then he thought well I call the deacon he knows bikes and works on them.
>
> Well he brought it over and typical 40 cc rear wheel with one broken drive side spoke. The cassette sits on then the last small cog that threads on to keep the cassette on. It takes 2 chain whips to remove the cassette. So my first things was glad I did not need to by a new tool I have not worked with freewheels much lately.
>
> The plastic disk and the hub itself was going to make threading the spoke through very hard. I don't how they build it seems not enough room. The dork disk was the biggest pain I have to cut it off would not just pop off was behind the hub spline the cassettes stacked on.
>
> Then sure enough I had a spare spoke of the correct length. However the only way I could get it to thread through the flange was to bend in almost 45 degrees. I could not figure how to remove the large holder for the cassette. FInally I straighten the spoke back up and trued up the wheel. Actually it was pretty good for a bike that is 20 years old the wheel trued ok the tension across are acceptably even enough.
>
> Then I fit the wheel back on the bike and had to actually make one turn of the rear derailleur limit screw so that the chain could not fall into the spokes. In the end in about 90 minutes including adjusting the shifting and putting the wheel back, the bike is fine. It is not need a new wheel at all.
>
> My question is if the local bike shop just did not want to do what I did? The hardest part was not replacing the spoke or even truing the wheel. That took the most brains but horsing around the heavy bike and then adjusting the brakes and shifting was more trouble. I assume these bike shops just want things easier from labor standpoint? I have no clue. Granted I am not the fastest mechanic but it is just work and time.

Figure a shop rate of $75 per hour and by the time you replace the spoke
and true the wheel you're at more than an hour. Still, replacing a spoke
and truing a wheel should not cost more than $75 at a shop.

Perhaps they figured that other spokes would soon break as well. Perhaps
they were just lazy and figured ordering the customer a new wheel from
QBP would be easier and more profitable.

On Wednesday, June 29, 2022 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-4, jeff.li...@gmail.com wrote:
> One of several ways to make your own gasket:
> "How To Make Automotive Carburetor Gaskets"
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdG10CR0Woc>
> I use a plastic hammer, leather punch for the holes, and razor for the
> detail work.

Thanks, I've been wondering what I'd do for an obsolete gasket.

On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 09:30:55 -0700 (PDT), Tim R
<timothy42bach@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Wednesday, June 29, 2022 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-4, jeff.li...@gmail.com wrote:
>> One of several ways to make your own gasket:
>> "How To Make Automotive Carburetor Gaskets"
>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdG10CR0Woc>
>> I use a plastic hammer, leather punch for the holes, and razor for the
>> detail work.

>Thanks, I've been wondering what I'd do for an obsolete gasket.

Y'er welcome. A few hints to prevent you from repeating some of my
past disasters.
1. Select your gasket material and thickness carefully. My favorite
screwup was forgetting to identify the material and measure its
thickness before scraping off the remains of the old gasket.
2. Buy compatible gasket material for whatever you're doing. It
could cardboard, fiber, cork, rubber, EPDM, neoprene, teflon, nitrile,
and combinations.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasket>
Gaskets made for water plumbing don't work well with gasoline and oil.
Paper gaskets don't work at high temperatures. Watch out for material
that shrinks or expands excessively. Some require a gasket sealer
(RTV). Some have a woven "grain" and will leak if cut along the
grain. Most materials have a range of acceptable pressures. In other
words, take the time to find the right material.
3. Buy a torque wrench and use it properly. Calibrate it often.
4. If the gasket is available from the manufacturer, buy it. Your
chances of making your own gaskets for cylinder heads, manifolds,
hydraulics, and pressure vessels is very small.
5. If you're not good with a scalpel, invest in gasket cutter tools.
You won't like the prices:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=gasket+cutters&tbm=isch>
6. If you need to make a large number of gaskets, invest in a steel
rule die gasket cutter.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=steel+rule+die+gasket+cutter&tbm=isch>

Good luck.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 09:03:28 -0700, sms <scharf.steven@geemail.com>
wrote:

>On 6/28/2022 3:52 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
>> Today I got a call from a parishioner asking about fixing his wheel because a spoke broke. It is an 8 spd town type bike for getting around. Weighs a ton but rides fine and works. He said he took the back wheel in to the LBS and they said well you just need a new rear wheel we can for maybe like $200. So then he thought well I call the deacon he knows bikes and works on them.
>>
>> Well he brought it over and typical 40 cc rear wheel with one broken drive side spoke. The cassette sits on then the last small cog that threads on to keep the cassette on. It takes 2 chain whips to remove the cassette. So my first things was glad I did not need to by a new tool I have not worked with freewheels much lately.
>>
>> The plastic disk and the hub itself was going to make threading the spoke through very hard. I don't how they build it seems not enough room. The dork disk was the biggest pain I have to cut it off would not just pop off was behind the hub spline the cassettes stacked on.
>>
>> Then sure enough I had a spare spoke of the correct length. However the only way I could get it to thread through the flange was to bend in almost 45 degrees. I could not figure how to remove the large holder for the cassette. FInally I straighten the spoke back up and trued up the wheel. Actually it was pretty good for a bike that is 20 years old the wheel trued ok the tension across are acceptably even enough.
>>
>> Then I fit the wheel back on the bike and had to actually make one turn of the rear derailleur limit screw so that the chain could not fall into the spokes. In the end in about 90 minutes including adjusting the shifting and putting the wheel back, the bike is fine. It is not need a new wheel at all.
>>
>> My question is if the local bike shop just did not want to do what I did? The hardest part was not replacing the spoke or even truing the wheel. That took the most brains but horsing around the heavy bike and then adjusting the brakes and shifting was more trouble. I assume these bike shops just want things easier from labor standpoint? I have no clue. Granted I am not the fastest mechanic but it is just work and time.
>
>Figure a shop rate of $75 per hour and by the time you replace the spoke
>and true the wheel you're at more than an hour. Still, replacing a spoke
>and truing a wheel should not cost more than $75 at a shop.
>
>Perhaps they figured that other spokes would soon break as well. Perhaps
>they were just lazy and figured ordering the customer a new wheel from
>QBP would be easier and more profitable.

I suggest that as Andrew wrote, shops probably do lot of "flat rate"
jobs and perhaps the number of flat fate jobs that they can do in one
hour amount to more then $75.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 7/5/2022 5:43 PM, John B. wrote:
> On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 09:03:28 -0700, sms <scharf.steven@geemail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/28/2022 3:52 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
>>> Today I got a call from a parishioner asking about fixing his wheel because a spoke broke. It is an 8 spd town type bike for getting around. Weighs a ton but rides fine and works. He said he took the back wheel in to the LBS and they said well you just need a new rear wheel we can for maybe like $200. So then he thought well I call the deacon he knows bikes and works on them.
>>>
>>> Well he brought it over and typical 40 cc rear wheel with one broken drive side spoke. The cassette sits on then the last small cog that threads on to keep the cassette on. It takes 2 chain whips to remove the cassette. So my first things was glad I did not need to by a new tool I have not worked with freewheels much lately.
>>>
>>> The plastic disk and the hub itself was going to make threading the spoke through very hard. I don't how they build it seems not enough room. The dork disk was the biggest pain I have to cut it off would not just pop off was behind the hub spline the cassettes stacked on.
>>>
>>> Then sure enough I had a spare spoke of the correct length. However the only way I could get it to thread through the flange was to bend in almost 45 degrees. I could not figure how to remove the large holder for the cassette. FInally I straighten the spoke back up and trued up the wheel. Actually it was pretty good for a bike that is 20 years old the wheel trued ok the tension across are acceptably even enough.
>>>
>>> Then I fit the wheel back on the bike and had to actually make one turn of the rear derailleur limit screw so that the chain could not fall into the spokes. In the end in about 90 minutes including adjusting the shifting and putting the wheel back, the bike is fine. It is not need a new wheel at all.
>>>
>>> My question is if the local bike shop just did not want to do what I did? The hardest part was not replacing the spoke or even truing the wheel. That took the most brains but horsing around the heavy bike and then adjusting the brakes and shifting was more trouble. I assume these bike shops just want things easier from labor standpoint? I have no clue. Granted I am not the fastest mechanic but it is just work and time.
>>
>> Figure a shop rate of $75 per hour and by the time you replace the spoke
>> and true the wheel you're at more than an hour. Still, replacing a spoke
>> and truing a wheel should not cost more than $75 at a shop.
>>
>> Perhaps they figured that other spokes would soon break as well. Perhaps
>> they were just lazy and figured ordering the customer a new wheel from
>> QBP would be easier and more profitable.
>
> I suggest that as Andrew wrote, shops probably do lot of "flat rate"
> jobs and perhaps the number of flat fate jobs that they can do in one
> hour amount to more then $75.
>
+1

....as in any other service business.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971