I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about
10 feet high.

Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed
with long side horizontally.

From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
install it with the long side vertical.

Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?

It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the long
side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall. With the
long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be lifted to the
top of the firs row and pushed into place.

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 11:04:30 -0400, knuttle
<keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about
>10 feet high.
>
>Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed
>with long side horizontally.
>
> From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>install it with the long side vertical.
>
>Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>
>
>It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the long
>side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall. With the
>long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be lifted to the
>top of the firs row and pushed into place.

It depends. How long are the walls and how big of a piece can you
moose around? If you can deal with 10' sheets and the studs are in
the right place, vertical is easier. If you have to rely on 8'
sheets, I prefer horizontal. Butt joints are a PITA but you're going
to have those either way.

On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>
> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are about
> 10 feet high.
>
> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed
> with long side horizontally.
>
> From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
> install it with the long side vertical.
>
> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>
>
> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the long
> side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.  With the
> long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be lifted to the
> top of the firs row and pushed into place.

So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
the other as to which is easier. Both have to be lifted off of the
floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.

With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths. Most often the
longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
than the sheet. IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.

On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>
>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>> about 10 feet high.
>>
>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed
>> with long side horizontally.
>>
>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>
>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>
>>
>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>
>
> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.

Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
it should not matter.

> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>
>

On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>
>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>
>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>
>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>
>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>
>>>
>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>
>>
>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
>> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
>> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>
> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
> it should not matter.
>
>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>>
>>
>
Thanks for the information. First I am an amateur, but have done some
drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
would be good for the first course lifting the second course into place
seems to be a problem even for a younger person
So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet horizontally
to complete the wall. Cutting around the window and door would be the
same either way.

On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>
>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>
>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>
>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>
>>>
>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
>>> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
>>> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>
>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
>> it should not matter.
>>
>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>>>
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.

Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!

> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into place
> seems to be a problem even for a younger person

If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
yourself.

> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet horizontally
> to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door would be the
> same either way.

That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.

On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>
>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>
>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>
>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>
>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>
>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>> lenghts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>
> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>
>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
>> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>
> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
> per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
> yourself.
>
>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door
>> would be the same either way.
>
> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
> of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
> taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:18:05 -0400, knuttle
<keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
>> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>>
>>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>>
>>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>>> lenghts.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>
>> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>>
>>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
>>> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>
>> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
>> per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
>> yourself.
>>
>>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door
>>> would be the same either way.
>>
>> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
>> of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
>> taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
>Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>
>Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
>OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
>seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?

just 1 link - below - a google search reveals
umteen hits and youtube videos - you name it.

https://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drywall-installation-openings.htmlx

John T.

On 10/6/21 12:18 PM, knuttle wrote:
> On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
>> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier
>>>>>> to install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the
>>>>>> wall. With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have
>>>>>> to be lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>>
>>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>>
>>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>>> lenghts.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done
>>> some drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>
>> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>>
>>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require
>>> every panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10'
>>> horizontally would be good for the first course lifting the second
>>> course into place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>
>> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for
>> ~$30-40 per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration
>> doing it yourself.
>>
>>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and
>>> door would be the same either way.
>>
>> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the
>> corners of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make
>> mudding and taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
> Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>
> Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
> OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
> seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?

When placing drywall, I try to create a vertical seam mid-span above, or
a horizontal seam mid-span on either side of a door or window. I find
that seams directly intersecting corners of openings tend to crack more.

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 3:18:09 PM UTC-4, keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
> > On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
> >> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
> >>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
> >>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are
> >>>>> about 10 feet high.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
> >>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
> >>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
> >>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
> >>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
> >>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
> >>>> of the other as to which is easier. Both have to be lifted off of
> >>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
> >>>
> >>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
> >>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
> >>> end, it should not matter.
> >>>
> >>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths. Most often the
> >>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
> >>>> shorter than the sheet. IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
> >>>> lenghts.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >> Thanks for the information. First I am an amateur, but have done some
> >> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
> >
> > Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
> >
> >> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
> >> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
> >> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
> >> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
> >
> > If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
> > per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
> > yourself.
> >
> >> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
> >> horizontally to complete the wall. Cutting around the window and door
> >> would be the same either way.
> >
> > That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
> > of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
> > taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
> Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>
> Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
> OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
> seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?

That's exactly what you *don't* want to do. The area above the corners of doors
and windows can settle/shift and your seams may crack.

One method is this. The seam is below the corner and is less likely to crack:

https://buyersask.com/wp-content/uploads/Drywall-corner_112777483-Copy-250x108.jpg

Another method. Here the seam is over the center of the window.

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/installing-drywall-around-windows-and-doors_o

On 10/6/2021 3:44 PM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
> On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:18:05 -0400, knuttle
> <keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>>>> lenghts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>>>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>>
>>> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>>>
>>>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>>>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>>>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
>>>> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>>
>>> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
>>> per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
>>> yourself.
>>>
>>>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>>>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door
>>>> would be the same either way.
>>>
>>> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
>>> of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
>>> taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
>> Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>>
>> Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
>> OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
>> seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?
>
>
> just 1 link - below - a google search reveals
> umteen hits and youtube videos - you name it.
>
> https://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drywall-installation-openings.htmlx
>
> John T.
>
I asked here instead of what I found on Google as I had specific
question about hanging dry wall. The video seem to always give general
information.
Again thank you all for the information.

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 16:48:36 -0400, knuttle
<keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On 10/6/2021 3:44 PM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
>> On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:18:05 -0400, knuttle
>> <keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>>>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>>>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>>>>> lenghts.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>>>>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>>>
>>>> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>>>>
>>>>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>>>>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>>>>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
>>>>> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>>>
>>>> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
>>>> per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
>>>> yourself.
>>>>
>>>>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>>>>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door
>>>>> would be the same either way.
>>>>
>>>> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
>>>> of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
>>>> taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
>>> Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>>>
>>> Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
>>> OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
>>> seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?
>>
>>
>> just 1 link - below - a google search reveals
>> umteen hits and youtube videos - you name it.
>>
>> https://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drywall-installation-openings.htmlx
>>
>> John T.
>>
>I asked here instead of what I found on Google as I had specific
>question about hanging dry wall. The video seem to always give general
>information.
>
>Again thank you all for the information.
>

Glad that you found all your answers.
The link that I posted was concerning the question about
door/window openings and it showed 2 simple
illustrations - Wrong & Right.
A different web site that I looked at showed where to
put the drywall screws around the openings and -
- something that was news-to-me - where NOT to screw.
John T.

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 11:22:43 -0700, Beeper <beeper@acme.com> wrote:

>On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>
>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>
>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>
>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
>>>> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
>>>> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>
>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
>>> it should not matter.

One thing to think about is the sight line. Hung horizontally, you
may see the joint because you're looking right down it's length. Avoid
the seam at eye level (2' panel on the bottom) or you will see it no
matter how good the taping is.
>>>
>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>>>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>
>Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>
>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into place
>> seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>
>If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
>per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
>yourself.

Since you're doing it yourself, I'm sure a day or two isn't going to
cut it. BTDT. I bought a lift quite some time ago but they've gotten
a lot more expensive, apparently:

<https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=drywall%20hoist>

"knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...

>I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>feet high.
>
>Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>long side horizontally.
>
>From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>it with the long side vertical.
>
>Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?

Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no. However, generally
you have fewer linear feet to tape with horizontal hanging but not always.

Me... I've hung and taped a fair amount of drywall. In your case I'd
probably hang 4'x12' sheets horizontally. Start with 4' widths at the top
and put the nominal 2' at the bottom. If you are working alone you can
hang the upper sheets using a panel lift--they aren't just for ceilings! You
can reach the horizontal joints fairly easy at those heights for taping and
there is less taping to do.

Depending on where the door(s) are located you might be able to avoid having
to tape at least some butt joints.

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 14:01:47 -0400, knuttle
<keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>
>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>
>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>
>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>
>>>
>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
>>> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
>>> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>
>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
>> it should not matter.
>>
>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>>>
>>>
>>
>Thanks for the information. First I am an amateur, but have done some
>drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>
>To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>would be good for the first course lifting the second course into place
>seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>
>So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet horizontally
>to complete the wall. Cutting around the window and door would be the
>same either way.
Do yourself a favour - lay it horisontal. 2 man job - but make or
rent a "llift" - it can be as simple as a set of "ramps" made of 2X4s
against the wall with a 2X4 between them to rest the sheet on at the
right hight to hold the sheet pretty well to the ceiling -use a wide
bar to hold to the desired heigt then screw into place - top sheet
first all around the garage. When the top is all done re-work the ramp
to fit the second sheet - staggering the vertical joints - then cut
the bottom sheet and pry it into place. withthe required bottom gap.
Horizontal lines are easier to mud and less conspicuous. Short
vericals are easier than full height

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:18:05 -0400, knuttle
<keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On 10/6/2021 2:22 PM, Beeper wrote:
>> On 10/6/21 11:01 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen
>>>>> of the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of
>>>>> the floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>>
>>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the
>>>> end, it should not matter.
>>>>
>>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is
>>>>> shorter than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12'
>>>>> lenghts.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> Thanks for the information.  First I am an amateur, but have done some
>>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>
>> Well then, at your age, I salute you for tackling this yourself!
>>
>>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into
>>> place seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>
>> If you don't have a helper, consider renting a drywall hoist for ~$30-40
>> per day. It may pay for itself in saved time and frustration doing it
>> yourself.
>>
>>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet
>>> horizontally to complete the wall.  Cutting around the window and door
>>> would be the same either way.
>>
>> That's your call based on your situation. Avoid any seams at the corners
>> of doors and windows and be mindful of the next step; make mudding and
>> taping the seams as easy as possible. Good luck.
>Please explain "Avoid any seams at the corners of doors and windows"
>
>Should all the window/door corners be cut from a single panel or is it
>OK to run a panel up along the window and a piece over the window with
>seam continuing from the top of he window to the ceiling?
That is to be avoided if possible - better to have the vertical seam
centered over the door. Horrizintal sheets mean only a small amount of
waste cut out of the bottom of the top sheet, then the next 2 layers
have no waste for doors. Never have a joint that is unsupported, and
try to avoid joints at inside corners - like a door or window top
corner or window bottom corner for best crack resistance.

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 21:30:41 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>"knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...
>
>>I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>>feet high.
>>
>>Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>>long side horizontally.
>>
>>From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>>it with the long side vertical.
>>
>>Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>
>Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no. However, generally
>you have fewer linear feet to tape with horizontal hanging but not always.
>
>Me... I've hung and taped a fair amount of drywall. In your case I'd
>probably hang 4'x12' sheets horizontally. Start with 4' widths at the top
>and put the nominal 2' at the bottom. If you are working alone you can
>hang the upper sheets using a panel lift--they aren't just for ceilings! You
>can reach the horizontal joints fairly easy at those heights for taping and
>there is less taping to do.
>
>Depending on where the door(s) are located you might be able to avoid having
>to tape at least some butt joints.
>
>
>
It''s not very common to have more than 8 or 10 feet between corners
and windows or doors so in MOST cases there is no vertical joint in
the "eye level" panets when mounting horizontal. If there is, a
staggered vertical joint is not terribly visible. A full height
vertical joint every 4 feet is a royal B---h to hide - - . Making the
joints -if required - on the upper course cantered above doors or
windows makes for a nice short vertical seam and the sides of the
windows draw your eye away from the joint -= and it is unusual to
require more than one joint in ther upper course even using the
readily available 8 foot sheets (most walls are under 16 feet long)

On 10/6/2021 11:29 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 14:01:47 -0400, knuttle
> <keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> On 10/6/2021 1:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>>> On 10/6/21 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/6/2021 10:04 AM, knuttle wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop.  The walls are
>>>>> about 10 feet high.
>>>>>
>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is
>>>>> installed with long side horizontally.
>>>>>
>>>>>  From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to
>>>>> install it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>
>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the
>>>>> long side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall.
>>>>> With the long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be
>>>>> lifted to the top of the firs row and pushed into place.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So if you are a dry installer, it is probably 6 of one 1/2 a dozen of
>>>> the other as to which is easier.  Both have to be lifted off of the
>>>> floor by an inch or so to reach the ceiling sheetrock.
>>>
>>> Also consider mudding and taping. Some drywall installers prefer
>>> horizontal seams at about 4' simply to make taping easier. In the end,
>>> it should not matter.
>>>
>>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>>>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the information. First I am an amateur, but have done some
>> drywall during my high school years 60 years ago.
>>
>> To use 10' drywall panels in the vertical position would require every
>> panel to be cut as the walls are a shade under 10'. 10' horizontally
>> would be good for the first course lifting the second course into place
>> seems to be a problem even for a younger person
>>
>> So I was thinking of 8' sheets vertical with one cut sheet horizontally
>> to complete the wall. Cutting around the window and door would be the
>> same either way.
> Do yourself a favour - lay it horisontal. 2 man job - but make or
> rent a "llift" - it can be as simple as a set of "ramps" made of 2X4s
> against the wall with a 2X4 between them to rest the sheet on at the
> right hight to hold the sheet pretty well to the ceiling -use a wide
> bar to hold to the desired heigt then screw into place - top sheet
> first all around the garage. When the top is all done re-work the ramp
> to fit the second sheet - staggering the vertical joints - then cut
> the bottom sheet and pry it into place. withthe required bottom gap.
> Horizontal lines are easier to mud and less conspicuous. Short
> vericals are easier than full height
>

While, you're on that topic, I thought I would mention that as a
beginner myself, I found my inexpensive 500W halogen light very helpful
in pointing out to me where my joints required more work (sanding or
other). The shadows show up in a big way! The technique easily found
issues that I would have otherwise encountered while I was painting, and
it was too late to do much about it. I may have got that suggestion
here (if not, I got it from YouTube or from something I read, because I
know I didn't come up with it on my own!). You may be amazed what it
finds for you, and after using the light, you'll know exactly where you
stand--with no need to guess or hope!

John Grossbohlin <nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> "knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...
>
>>I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>>feet high.
>>
>>Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>>long side horizontally.
>>
>>From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>>it with the long side vertical.
>>
>>Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>
> Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no.

Drywall can work as a shear wall for earthquake reinforcement. Specific
types of plywood are normally used in proper retrofits, but AFAIU drywall
can work well enough depending on the requirements and the drywall specs.

For plywood shear walls, horizontal panels are preferred, even where you can
fit full, evenly spaced panels in either direction. The experimental
evidence (the specifics of which I forget) is much weaker than the
rationales contractors give, but the evidence still slightly favors
horizontal placement. My neighbor retrofit his first floor a year after I
did and boasted (based on his contractor's feel-good BS) that his panels
were placed horizontal, unlike mine which were placed vertical. In our
situations it almost certainly didn't matter. Rather I'm sure placement was
in actuality dictated by which was easier and cheaper for the contractor.
But *technically* I felt bound to concede his point and nod my head.

At least as important as the drywall specs, and definitely more important
than direction, would be the fastener type, spec, and placement. For plywood
retrofit shearwalls, screws are considered a conspicuous sign of shoddy
work. But I'm sure screws could still be used as long as they met the right
specs; screws just aren't as fool- and defect-proof as nails. Maybe the
reverse is true for drywall, with screws making it easier to achieve maximum
benefit.

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 11:04:33 AM UTC-4, keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>
> It seems it would be easier lifting the panels into place with the long
> side vertical, as they could be set and pushed up to the wall. With the
> long side horizontal the 2nd row piece would have to be lifted to the
> top of the firs row and pushed into place.

1. Drywall the ceiling.
2. The first sheet for the wall should be placed up tight to the ceiling. This makes a tight joint with a tapered edge for taping and helps support the ceiling sheet.
3. The next sheet goes under the first. For an 8' wall that's it. The inch or so at the bottom will be covered by trim. For a 10' wall you'll have to decide if you want a 2' "patch" in the middle or at the bottom. Middle is easier to work on to feather out, bottom may be less noticeable. In a workshop it probably doesn't matter.

Horizontal or vertical is up to you. It may make a difference on how many joints you have to deal with especially (untapered) butt joints. In home construction, many rooms can be finished with 10 or 12 foot sheets covering a full wall and eliminating the butt joints.

On 10/6/2021 12:34 PM, Beeper wrote:

>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.

Tearing out wet drywall after Tropical Storm Allison dropped up to 24
inches of rain [IIRC] in 24 hours, flooded hundreds/thousands of Houston
area homes in 2002 we quickly realized that horizontally installed
drywall made for a convenient height/break for tear-out and replacement
of full sheets. Highest waterline of the five houses we repaired was 31
or 32 inches. It definitely moved the time line for tear-out and dry-out.

Dave in SoTex

On 10/7/2021 12:57 AM, William Ahern wrote:
> John Grossbohlin <nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> "knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>>> feet high.
>>>
>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>>> long side horizontally.
>>>
>> >From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>>> it with the long side vertical.
>>>
>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>
>> Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no.
>
> Drywall can work as a shear wall for earthquake reinforcement. Specific
> types of plywood are normally used in proper retrofits, but AFAIU drywall
> can work well enough depending on the requirements and the drywall specs.
>
> For plywood shear walls, horizontal panels are preferred, even where you can
> fit full, evenly spaced panels in either direction. The experimental
> evidence (the specifics of which I forget) is much weaker than the
> rationales contractors give, but the evidence still slightly favors
> horizontal placement. My neighbor retrofit his first floor a year after I
> did and boasted (based on his contractor's feel-good BS) that his panels
> were placed horizontal, unlike mine which were placed vertical. In our
> situations it almost certainly didn't matter. Rather I'm sure placement was
> in actuality dictated by which was easier and cheaper for the contractor.
> But *technically* I felt bound to concede his point and nod my head.
>
> At least as important as the drywall specs, and definitely more important
> than direction, would be the fastener type, spec, and placement. For plywood
> retrofit shearwalls, screws are considered a conspicuous sign of shoddy
> work. But I'm sure screws could still be used as long as they met the right
> specs; screws just aren't as fool- and defect-proof as nails. Maybe the
> reverse is true for drywall, with screws making it easier to achieve maximum
> benefit.
>
+

What is an earth quake? ;~)

On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 08:14:25 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 10/7/2021 12:57 AM, William Ahern wrote:
>> John Grossbohlin <nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> "knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...
>>>
>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>>>> feet high.
>>>>
>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>>>> long side horizontally.
>>>>
>>> >From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>>>> it with the long side vertical.
>>>>
>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>
>>> Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no.
>>
>> Drywall can work as a shear wall for earthquake reinforcement. Specific
>> types of plywood are normally used in proper retrofits, but AFAIU drywall
>> can work well enough depending on the requirements and the drywall specs.
>>
>> For plywood shear walls, horizontal panels are preferred, even where you can
>> fit full, evenly spaced panels in either direction. The experimental
>> evidence (the specifics of which I forget) is much weaker than the
>> rationales contractors give, but the evidence still slightly favors
>> horizontal placement. My neighbor retrofit his first floor a year after I
>> did and boasted (based on his contractor's feel-good BS) that his panels
>> were placed horizontal, unlike mine which were placed vertical. In our
>> situations it almost certainly didn't matter. Rather I'm sure placement was
>> in actuality dictated by which was easier and cheaper for the contractor.
>> But *technically* I felt bound to concede his point and nod my head.
>>
>> At least as important as the drywall specs, and definitely more important
>> than direction, would be the fastener type, spec, and placement. For plywood
>> retrofit shearwalls, screws are considered a conspicuous sign of shoddy
>> work. But I'm sure screws could still be used as long as they met the right
>> specs; screws just aren't as fool- and defect-proof as nails. Maybe the
>> reverse is true for drywall, with screws making it easier to achieve maximum
>> benefit.
>>
>+
>
>What is an earth quake? ;~)

2 ounces Cognac
1 ounce absinthe
Garnish: lemon twist

On 10/7/2021 8:49 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 08:14:25 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 10/7/2021 12:57 AM, William Ahern wrote:
>>> John Grossbohlin <nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>> "knuttle" wrote in message news:sjkdtu$7mb$1@dont-email.me...
>>>>
>>>>> I plan to finish our garage as a garage/work shop. The walls are about 10
>>>>> feet high.
>>>>>
>>>>> Part of the garage is already dry walled, and the drywall is installed with
>>>>> long side horizontally.
>>>>>
>>>> >From a handling point of view, it seems that it would be easier to install
>>>>> it with the long side vertical.
>>>>>
>>>>> Does it make a difference horizontal or vertical?
>>>>
>>>> Regarding your question. From a structural standpoint no.
>>>
>>> Drywall can work as a shear wall for earthquake reinforcement. Specific
>>> types of plywood are normally used in proper retrofits, but AFAIU drywall
>>> can work well enough depending on the requirements and the drywall specs.
>>>
>>> For plywood shear walls, horizontal panels are preferred, even where you can
>>> fit full, evenly spaced panels in either direction. The experimental
>>> evidence (the specifics of which I forget) is much weaker than the
>>> rationales contractors give, but the evidence still slightly favors
>>> horizontal placement. My neighbor retrofit his first floor a year after I
>>> did and boasted (based on his contractor's feel-good BS) that his panels
>>> were placed horizontal, unlike mine which were placed vertical. In our
>>> situations it almost certainly didn't matter. Rather I'm sure placement was
>>> in actuality dictated by which was easier and cheaper for the contractor.
>>> But *technically* I felt bound to concede his point and nod my head.
>>>
>>> At least as important as the drywall specs, and definitely more important
>>> than direction, would be the fastener type, spec, and placement. For plywood
>>> retrofit shearwalls, screws are considered a conspicuous sign of shoddy
>>> work. But I'm sure screws could still be used as long as they met the right
>>> specs; screws just aren't as fool- and defect-proof as nails. Maybe the
>>> reverse is true for drywall, with screws making it easier to achieve maximum
>>> benefit.
>>>
>> +
>>
>> What is an earth quake? ;~)
>
>
> 2 ounces Cognac
> 1 ounce absinthe
> Garnish: lemon twist
>

ohhhhh. But what about all those special fasteners. LOL

On 10/7/2021 8:55 AM, Dave in SoTex wrote:
> On 10/6/2021 12:34 PM, Beeper wrote:
>
>>> With that said sheet rock comes in several lengths.  Most often the
>>> longer than 8' lengths are placed horizontally if the will is shorter
>>> than the sheet.  IIRC sheet rock comes in 8', 10', and 12' lenghts.
>
>     Tearing out wet drywall after Tropical Storm Allison dropped up to
> 24 inches of rain [IIRC] in 24 hours, flooded hundreds/thousands of
> Houston area homes in 2002 we quickly realized that horizontally
> installed drywall made for a convenient height/break for tear-out and
> replacement of full sheets.  Highest waterline of the five houses we
> repaired was 31 or 32 inches.  It definitely moved the time line for
> tear-out and dry-out.
>
> Dave in SoTex
>
>
This is something we definitely will not have to worry about We are
about 80' above a creek that runs through a swamp that is over a half
mile wide. It we get flooded, many people will be looking for the dove.