wrote in message news:0r9vlg92o466tj5ikg875c620khgjoe64l@4ax.com...

>On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 21:25:56 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>>Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you
>>with
>>the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint
>>with
>>hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two
>>coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By
>>pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one
>>piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The
>>down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a
>>straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you
>>might
>>not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities
>>with
>>hot mud either way!

>Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight
>down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.

Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM

krw@notreal.com wrote in
news:s6g3mgl87rbec7p9s17ip4hfjo1sd222ab@4ax.com:

> When you say "came in" are you talking about a basement or first
> floor?
>
> Builders now do a piss poor job of foundation drainage. I shouldn't
> say "now". They weren't doing a great job 60 years ago. My parents'
> house did have a sump and pump to deal with foundation drains but the
> pump just dumped the water outside on the lawn, where it found its way
> back to the foundation drains. At times the pump would run
> continuously. The basement in our current house is walk-out so only
> buried half way. Drainage isn't a problem.
>

Basement.

Any time you rely on a sump pump, you've got a problem. I just wish more
people would take the time to water proof the basements properly when
building--when it's easy to get at. The new side of the house has
plastic "pebble" board (I don't remember the name), a passive foundation
drain that drains away from the house, and I'm not sure if the cinder
block has a waterproof coating, but that side never gets water in it. It
sure didn't add a whole lot to the cost of the build.

Puckdropper

On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>wrote in message news:0r9vlg92o466tj5ikg875c620khgjoe64l@4ax.com...
>
>>On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 21:25:56 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>>Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you
>>>with
>>>the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint
>>>with
>>>hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two
>>>coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By
>>>pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one
>>>piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The
>>>down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a
>>>straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you
>>>might
>>>not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities
>>>with
>>>hot mud either way!
>
>>Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight
>>down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.
>
>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM

Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?

On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 08:17:05 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>krw@notreal.com wrote in
>news:s6g3mgl87rbec7p9s17ip4hfjo1sd222ab@4ax.com:
>
>
>> When you say "came in" are you talking about a basement or first
>> floor?
>>
>> Builders now do a piss poor job of foundation drainage. I shouldn't
>> say "now". They weren't doing a great job 60 years ago. My parents'
>> house did have a sump and pump to deal with foundation drains but the
>> pump just dumped the water outside on the lawn, where it found its way
>> back to the foundation drains. At times the pump would run
>> continuously. The basement in our current house is walk-out so only
>> buried half way. Drainage isn't a problem.
>>
>
>Basement.

That's what I thought. This isn't a "flood" problem, rather a ground
water problem. This can happen anywhere except on top of a mountain
of gravel perhaps. OTOH, insurance companies won't care. Rising
water is rising water.

>Any time you rely on a sump pump, you've got a problem. I just wish more
>people would take the time to water proof the basements properly when
>building--when it's easy to get at. The new side of the house has
>plastic "pebble" board (I don't remember the name), a passive foundation
>drain that drains away from the house, and I'm not sure if the cinder
>block has a waterproof coating, but that side never gets water in it. It
>sure didn't add a whole lot to the cost of the build.

The house can turn into a boat, which isn't good either. Sump pumps
are bad but sometimes there isn't a better choice. Battery backup is
kinda important. Power outages and rising water tend to come at the
same time.

On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 20:51:32 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>wrote in message news:0r9vlg92o466tj5ikg875c620khgjoe64l@4ax.com...
>>
>>>On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 21:25:56 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>>>Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you
>>>>with
>>>>the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint
>>>>with
>>>>hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two
>>>>coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By
>>>>pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one
>>>>piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The
>>>>down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a
>>>>straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you
>>>>might
>>>>not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities
>>>>with
>>>>hot mud either way!
>>
>>>Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight
>>>down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.
>>
>>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM
>
>Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
>in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
>load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?

The pros who redid the sunroom, with the framing being a bit wonky
taped after filling sanding a first coat but starting with a flat
surface made for a great job.

YMMV as may your walls.

On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 21:20:28 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 20:51:32 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>>wrote in message news:0r9vlg92o466tj5ikg875c620khgjoe64l@4ax.com...
>>>
>>>>On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 21:25:56 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>>>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>>Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you
>>>>>with
>>>>>the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint
>>>>>with
>>>>>hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two
>>>>>coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By
>>>>>pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one
>>>>>piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The
>>>>>down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a
>>>>>straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you
>>>>>might
>>>>>not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities
>>>>>with
>>>>>hot mud either way!
>>>
>>>>Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight
>>>>down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.
>>>
>>>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
>>>
>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM
>>
>>Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
>>in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
>>load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?
>
> The pros who redid the sunroom, with the framing being a bit wonky
>taped after filling sanding a first coat but starting with a flat
>surface made for a great job.

Odd. I thought the tapered edge was to hide the tape and first layer.
It sounds like it didn't matter if it was a tapered or butt joint,
they all got treated as butt joints.

>YMMV as may your walls.

No kidding.

On Wednesday, October 13, 2021 at 12:40:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 21:20:28 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >On Tue, 12 Oct 2021 20:51:32 -0400, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >
> >>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
> >><nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >>>wrote in message news:0r9vlg92o466tj5ik...@4ax.com...
> >>>
> >>>>On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 21:25:56 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
> >>>><nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>>Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you
> >>>>>with
> >>>>>the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint
> >>>>>with
> >>>>>hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two
> >>>>>coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By
> >>>>>pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one
> >>>>>piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The
> >>>>>down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a
> >>>>>straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you
> >>>>>might
> >>>>>not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities
> >>>>>with
> >>>>>hot mud either way!
> >>>
> >>>>Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight
> >>>>down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.
> >>>
> >>>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
> >>>
> >>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM
> >>
> >>Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
> >>in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
> >>load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?
> >
> > The pros who redid the sunroom, with the framing being a bit wonky
> >taped after filling sanding a first coat but starting with a flat
> >surface made for a great job.
> Odd. I thought the tapered edge was to hide the tape and first layer.
> It sounds like it didn't matter if it was a tapered or butt joint,
> they all got treated as butt joints.

Years ago I hired a guy to mud & tape a basement bathroom for me. Way
too many corners, inside and out. Small, cramped areas above the shower
stall, a small bulkhead to hide a gas pipe, even a shelf where the block
foundation narrowed from 12" to 8". No way I could do it right. Still couldn't.

Before I hung the drywall I mentioned to him that I could save a lot of drywall
if I didn't have to worry about eliminating all butt joints. He said "Don't worry
about it. I'll just flat tape the butt joints. You won't see the difference."

He was right.

Hanging, I can do. Mudding & taping just isn't in my genes. When I asked the
guy if my drywall hanging was OK, he said "I'd follow you anytime." ;-)

> >YMMV as may your walls.
> No kidding.

Tru dat!

wrote in message news:o9bcmgtg4c4j96s278f30cphq0tj6ou6sc@4ax.com...

>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM

>Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
>in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
>load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?

Prefilling means to fill the joints, preferably with hot mud (e.g.,
Durabond), allowing that to set, and then taping. Hot mud is like plaster,
it hardens through a chemical process and has little to no shrinkage.

You could also prefill with All Purpose mud but, because that is an
evaporative compound, big joints may take a day or more to dry and may
shrink or crack. It is definitely better than not prefilling but it is
slower and big gaps might need another prefill coat.

Pre-filling does a couple things for you. One is that it fills the joint so
that the sheets essentially become one...the gap cannot close up. Another
benefit is that the taping mud under the tape will not shrink into the gap
and leave the tape with a dip. Me, I prefill anything from an 1/8" and
bigger... corners, flat joints, butt joints, walls, ceilings, any thing with
a gap. It goes fast and depending on the setting time of the hot mud you use
you can be taping in 20, 45, 90, ... minutes.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:0cb74730-eae7-4ebe-8316-ecd87a08fcadn@googlegroups.com...

>Hanging, I can do. Mudding & taping just isn't in my genes. When I asked
>the
>guy if my drywall hanging was OK, he said "I'd follow you anytime." ;-)

When you are the hanger and taper you watch out for yourself!

I've noticed on my current project that hanging booboos and damaged sheets
don't freak me out any more. This as I've learned a lot and have gotten a
lot better at taping. I still avoid butt joints when I can by using 12'
sheets, but buggered up sheet edges, broken corners, and bad cuts around
electrical work boxes don't phase me any more. I also don't end up with the
perpetual "the sheet is 1/4" too long" hanging problem as I don't try to
make it exactly fit the space any more! ;~)

On Wed, 13 Oct 2021 21:26:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>wrote in message news:o9bcmgtg4c4j96s278f30cphq0tj6ou6sc@4ax.com...
>
>>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>>Just came across this video related to prefilling joints.
>>>
>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BDgtX38KVM
>
>>Makes sense but does "pre-filling" mean that you go around and put mud
>>in all of the joints, then go back and tape or does it mean that you
>>load the joint with mud then tape over it immediately?
>
>Prefilling means to fill the joints, preferably with hot mud (e.g.,
>Durabond), allowing that to set, and then taping. Hot mud is like plaster,
>it hardens through a chemical process and has little to no shrinkage.

I like the 90 minute stuff for taping but it is more work. I'm a
rank(est) armature and Durabond doesn't dissolve in water and it's
harder making sanding actually easier. Of course there is some that's
more sandable than others. My problem is mixing enough and not too
much. I don't have a good way to mix it either.

>You could also prefill with All Purpose mud but, because that is an
>evaporative compound, big joints may take a day or more to dry and may
>shrink or crack. It is definitely better than not prefilling but it is
>slower and big gaps might need another prefill coat.
>
>Pre-filling does a couple things for you. One is that it fills the joint so
>that the sheets essentially become one...the gap cannot close up. Another
>benefit is that the taping mud under the tape will not shrink into the gap
>and leave the tape with a dip. Me, I prefill anything from an 1/8" and
>bigger... corners, flat joints, butt joints, walls, ceilings, any thing with
>a gap. It goes fast and depending on the setting time of the hot mud you use
>you can be taping in 20, 45, 90, ... minutes.

When you prefill do you fill just the gap? It sounded like they were
saying to fill the taper too.

>

On Wednesday, October 13, 2021 at 9:37:29 PM UTC-4, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
> news:0cb74730-eae7-4ebe...@googlegroups.com...
> >Hanging, I can do. Mudding & taping just isn't in my genes. When I asked
> >the
> >guy if my drywall hanging was OK, he said "I'd follow you anytime." ;-)
> When you are the hanger and taper you watch out for yourself!
>
> I've noticed on my current project that hanging booboos and damaged sheets
> don't freak me out any more. This as I've learned a lot and have gotten a
> lot better at taping. I still avoid butt joints when I can by using 12'
> sheets, but buggered up sheet edges, broken corners, and bad cuts around
> electrical work boxes don't phase me any more. I also don't end up with the
> perpetual "the sheet is 1/4" too long" hanging problem as I don't try to
> make it exactly fit the space any more! ;~)

I have tried taping many times over the years. I just can't get it right. Save yourself
the trouble of offering tips. ;-) I've heard them all, I watched them all, I've taken
live, hands-on lessons more than a few times. I just can't get it.

I've done bondo, I've done fiberglassing, I've made really nice fillets out of thickened
epoxy. All of that works out fine. I just can't tape drywall.

When I recently remodeled my basement bathroom, precipitated by a leak that
required the removal of some drywall, I did the drywall work myself. It took way too
long and didn't come out anywhere near perfect. Tolerable, but not anything that
I would have accepted had I paid for it.

On Thursday, October 14, 2021 at 9:07:17 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Tolerable, but not anything that
> I would have accepted had I paid for it.

Sadly, very sadly, I have that feeling a lot when I look at the numerous drywall fixes I've done in my current house. But strangely, the full sheet drywall job I did in the basement covering whole walls, I don't see any problems with the tape or mud. Someone might happily pay for that work.

wrote in message news:mb7fmg1pg51to6bclarslnp1und5adg8p5@4ax.com...

On Wed, 13 Oct 2021 21:26:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>wrote in message news:o9bcmgtg4c4j96s278f30cphq0tj6ou6sc@4ax.com...
>
>>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>>Prefilling means to fill the joints, preferably with hot mud (e.g.,
>>Durabond), allowing that to set, and then taping. Hot mud is like
>>plaster,
>>it hardens through a chemical process and has little to no shrinkage.

>I like the 90 minute stuff for taping but it is more work. I'm a
>rank(est) armature and Durabond doesn't dissolve in water and it's
>harder making sanding actually easier. Of course there is some that's
>more sandable than others. My problem is mixing enough and not too
>much. I don't have a good way to mix it either.

Durabond isn't known for its sandability... ;~) If you use it for the
prefill and taping, and make it reasonably smooth, you can always finish
with all purpose. Then you can sand easily.

One advantage of using hot mud to tape is you can use the self adhesive mesh
tape. Put the tape up (if it doesn't stick well use spray adhesive) and then
apply the hot mud. Mesh tape is supposed to be used with setting compound,
not the evaporative type. That process might be easier than using paper tape
for some folks.

Me, my current method is to put thinned all purpose or ultra light weight
mud on the tape and then put it in place on the wall/ceiling. At least for
me, that goes much faster and you get an even layer of mud under the tape as
compared to putting the mud on the joint with a knife and then putting the
tape on. I found an in expensive device that works well and is simple to
use... far less complicated than other devices I tried. It's called a
TapeBuddy. Amazon has them.

>>You could also prefill with All Purpose mud but, because that is an
>>evaporative compound, big joints may take a day or more to dry and may
>>shrink or crack. It is definitely better than not prefilling but it is
>>slower and big gaps might need another prefill coat.
>>
>>Pre-filling does a couple things for you. One is that it fills the joint
>>so
>>that the sheets essentially become one...the gap cannot close up. Another
>>benefit is that the taping mud under the tape will not shrink into the gap
>>and leave the tape with a dip. Me, I prefill anything from an 1/8" and
>>bigger... corners, flat joints, butt joints, walls, ceilings, any thing
>>with
>>a gap. It goes fast and depending on the setting time of the hot mud you
>>use
>>you can be taping in 20, 45, 90, ... minutes.

>When you prefill do you fill just the gap? It sounded like they were
>saying to fill the taper too.

Just the gaps. It makes no sense to me to prefill the taper before taping.
If you did that it would be like taping a butt joint instead of a flat
joint...

On Thu, 14 Oct 2021 22:36:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>wrote in message news:mb7fmg1pg51to6bclarslnp1und5adg8p5@4ax.com...
>
>On Wed, 13 Oct 2021 21:26:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>wrote in message news:o9bcmgtg4c4j96s278f30cphq0tj6ou6sc@4ax.com...
>>
>>>On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 22:34:35 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
>>><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>>Prefilling means to fill the joints, preferably with hot mud (e.g.,
>>>Durabond), allowing that to set, and then taping. Hot mud is like
>>>plaster,
>>>it hardens through a chemical process and has little to no shrinkage.
>
>>I like the 90 minute stuff for taping but it is more work. I'm a
>>rank(est) armature and Durabond doesn't dissolve in water and it's
>>harder making sanding actually easier. Of course there is some that's
>>more sandable than others. My problem is mixing enough and not too
>>much. I don't have a good way to mix it either.
>
>Durabond isn't known for its sandability... ;~) If you use it for the
>prefill and taping, and make it reasonably smooth, you can always finish
>with all purpose. Then you can sand easily.

It's not like the premix but this is what I was referring to:

<https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-18-lb-Easy-Sand-90-Lightweight-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-384211/100321611?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-100321611-_-N>

>One advantage of using hot mud to tape is you can use the self adhesive mesh
>tape. Put the tape up (if it doesn't stick well use spray adhesive) and then
>apply the hot mud. Mesh tape is supposed to be used with setting compound,
>not the evaporative type. That process might be easier than using paper tape
>for some folks.

That answers a lot of questions. I've tried using the mesh tape on
premix mud. It doesn't come out so well. Maybe with some real
adhesive.
>
>Me, my current method is to put thinned all purpose or ultra light weight
>mud on the tape and then put it in place on the wall/ceiling. At least for
>me, that goes much faster and you get an even layer of mud under the tape as
>compared to putting the mud on the joint with a knife and then putting the
>tape on. I found an in expensive device that works well and is simple to
>use... far less complicated than other devices I tried. It's called a
>TapeBuddy. Amazon has them.

Evidently the prefill doesn't have completely fill the gap? It
doesn't seem that there is enough mud on the tape to fill it.

How does TapeBuddy compare with a banjo?
>
>
>>>You could also prefill with All Purpose mud but, because that is an
>>>evaporative compound, big joints may take a day or more to dry and may
>>>shrink or crack. It is definitely better than not prefilling but it is
>>>slower and big gaps might need another prefill coat.
>>>
>>>Pre-filling does a couple things for you. One is that it fills the joint
>>>so
>>>that the sheets essentially become one...the gap cannot close up. Another
>>>benefit is that the taping mud under the tape will not shrink into the gap
>>>and leave the tape with a dip. Me, I prefill anything from an 1/8" and
>>>bigger... corners, flat joints, butt joints, walls, ceilings, any thing
>>>with
>>>a gap. It goes fast and depending on the setting time of the hot mud you
>>>use
>>>you can be taping in 20, 45, 90, ... minutes.
>
>>When you prefill do you fill just the gap? It sounded like they were
>>saying to fill the taper too.
>
>Just the gaps. It makes no sense to me to prefill the taper before taping.
>If you did that it would be like taping a butt joint instead of a flat
>joint...

That's what I was thinking but who knows. Some masochist might like
butt joints.

wrote in message news:9pekmg13u9fi5kk1tg3jap5o1hchcvs10g@4ax.com...

On Thu, 14 Oct 2021 22:36:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>Evidently the prefill doesn't have completely fill the gap? It
>doesn't seem that there is enough mud on the tape to fill it.

The idea is to fill the gaps but not the tapers. If you have very narrow
gaps, or no gaps, there is no need to prefill. Narrow gaps will typically
fill with the taping mud. Some guys advise hanging with bigger gaps or
making the gaps bigger with a knife and prefilling everything.

>How does TapeBuddy compare with a banjo?
>

The same but different animal... ;~) The banjo holds tape and mud and is
carried to the joint and moved along the joint to apply the mudded tape.
Whereas with the TapeBuddy holds the tape and mud and sits on top of a joint
compound bucket (has notches to fit on the bucket) and you pull out a length
of tape and cut it to length (corner of a joint compound knife) and then
move the mudded tape to the joint and apply it. Generally you don't pull out
more than two arms length... multiple pieces to do a long flat joint is no
problem and butt joints are never more and 4.5 feet (unless perhaps you
stuff a narrow piece of rock between two horizontal sheets!). With the
TapeBuddy you are only carrying around the mudded tape and not a bunch of
tape, mud and steel (or aluminum) so it's less fatiguing to use for mere
mortals.

The host of these videos, Ben, is amusing and irreverent and knows what he's
doing even if he's goofing around for the video. The video on the TapeBuddy
also mentions prefilling and opening up the gaps to do so...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU1vcqklwoA&t=9s vs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojyrmm5jIBI&t=309s

On Sat, 16 Oct 2021 18:09:52 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>wrote in message news:9pekmg13u9fi5kk1tg3jap5o1hchcvs10g@4ax.com...
>
>On Thu, 14 Oct 2021 22:36:43 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>Evidently the prefill doesn't have completely fill the gap? It
>>doesn't seem that there is enough mud on the tape to fill it.
>
>The idea is to fill the gaps but not the tapers. If you have very narrow
>gaps, or no gaps, there is no need to prefill. Narrow gaps will typically
>fill with the taping mud. Some guys advise hanging with bigger gaps or
>making the gaps bigger with a knife and prefilling everything.
>
>>How does TapeBuddy compare with a banjo?
>>
>
>The same but different animal... ;~) The banjo holds tape and mud and is
>carried to the joint and moved along the joint to apply the mudded tape.
>Whereas with the TapeBuddy holds the tape and mud and sits on top of a joint
>compound bucket (has notches to fit on the bucket) and you pull out a length
>of tape and cut it to length (corner of a joint compound knife) and then
>move the mudded tape to the joint and apply it. Generally you don't pull out
>more than two arms length... multiple pieces to do a long flat joint is no
>problem and butt joints are never more and 4.5 feet (unless perhaps you
>stuff a narrow piece of rock between two horizontal sheets!). With the
>TapeBuddy you are only carrying around the mudded tape and not a bunch of
>tape, mud and steel (or aluminum) so it's less fatiguing to use for mere
>mortals.
>
>The host of these videos, Ben, is amusing and irreverent and knows what he's
>doing even if he's goofing around for the video. The video on the TapeBuddy
>also mentions prefilling and opening up the gaps to do so...
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU1vcqklwoA&t=9s vs.

I can see that it would take a bit of arm muscle for the banjo. This
was a very good tutorial. I'd like to have seen the outside corner
but youtube is big enough to find it elsewhere.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojyrmm5jIBI&t=309s

That's really slick. I noticed that he used the quick set chemical
reaction type mud in the first video and the evaporative stuff in the
second. Is there a reason for this (either one)?

He made a comment about not overlapping tape on a butt joint but
didn't say what the alternative was. Just baking sure the tape was
long enough to cover the entire joint? What about ceilings/wall
corners? I also have wall butt joints that go 8'. Perhaps bad
planning but that's how it worked out.

wrote in message news:eurmmg9togqq01a73uuprf99859cdlq4mj@4ax.com...

>On Sat, 16 Oct 2021 18:09:52 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
><nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>>The host of these videos, Ben, is amusing and irreverent and knows what
>>he's
>>doing even if he's goofing around for the video. The video on the
>>TapeBuddy
>>also mentions prefilling and opening up the gaps to do so...
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU1vcqklwoA&t=9s vs.

>I can see that it would take a bit of arm muscle for the banjo. This
>was a very good tutorial. I'd like to have seen the outside corner
>but youtube is big enough to find it elsewhere.

Look at Ben's channel. He discusses the outside corners... steel, paper,
fastening, etc.

Other channels to review are That Kilted Guy, or The Drywall Doctor. They
all offer quality information with some variance in technique.

>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojyrmm5jIBI&t=309s

>That's really slick. I noticed that he used the quick set chemical
>reaction type mud in the first video and the evaporative stuff in the
>second. Is there a reason for this (either one)?

I suspect it is because the garage job was a quick and relatively small job
and using setting mud would let him finish it in one day. Bigger jobs that
take longer to apply each coat can wait over night for another coat.

>He made a comment about not overlapping tape on a butt joint but
>didn't say what the alternative was. Just baking sure the tape was
>long enough to cover the entire joint? What about ceilings/wall
>corners? I also have wall butt joints that go 8'. Perhaps bad
>planning but that's how it worked out.

When he says "butt joint" he's referring to the 4' ends of sheets meeting
each others, NOT corner joints at wall and ceiling intersections..they are
corners. Generally, when you hang rock you stagger the butt joints. That
way you shouldn't have a joint longer than 4' (or 4.5').

On 10/17/2021 9:04 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

>>What about ceilings/wall corners?  I also have wall butt joints that go 8'.  Perhaps bad
>> planning but that's how it worked out.

Once you have the mud up there, you'll do what you have to do to make it
work, one piece of tape or three pieces. Just watch a YouTube video
first. In fact, you may start with one piece, and go back the next day,
rip some off, find that you have three after that. The single thing
which immensely improved the quality of my taping the most was to dunk
the paper tape into water first. After that it got embedded in the mud
"real good"! Before I started doing that, there were places where the
tape dried with air gaps. The single thing I remember learning (from a
book) about inside corners is not to put more mud "in" the corner once
you've taped it the first time. Taping drywall makes me feel like an
artist with a pallet, you just probably wouldn't want to pay me by the
hour! %-) Also remember, usually, nothing that comes off should go back
into the bucket. I read the book "Drywall", by M. Ferguson before my
drywall project. I think I taped my first joint at least 3 times before
I was satisfied--using wet tape the last time! Tape and mud are really
cheap, don't be ashamed to ask for a "do-over"! : ) I'm the same
poster who suggested using a halogen lamp too (after sanding).
I also recommend a sanding pole you can attach to your shop-vac (with
appropriate bag and filter), for the sake of your health. The price is
reasonable. If any experts think they know better than me, it's probably
true, and I defer to them. Good luck and have fun!

On Sunday, October 17, 2021 at 9:02:30 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> On 10/17/2021 9:04 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> >>What about ceilings/wall corners? I also have wall butt joints that go 8'. Perhaps bad
> >> planning but that's how it worked out.
> Once you have the mud up there, you'll do what you have to do to make it
> work, one piece of tape or three pieces. Just watch a YouTube video
> first. In fact, you may start with one piece, and go back the next day,
> rip some off, find that you have three after that. The single thing
> which immensely improved the quality of my taping the most was to dunk
> the paper tape into water first. After that it got embedded in the mud
> "real good"! Before I started doing that, there were places where the
> tape dried with air gaps. The single thing I remember learning (from a
> book) about inside corners is not to put more mud "in" the corner once
> you've taped it the first time. Taping drywall makes me feel like an
> artist with a pallet, you just probably wouldn't want to pay me by the
> hour! %-) Also remember, usually, nothing that comes off should go back
> into the bucket. I read the book "Drywall", by M. Ferguson before my
> drywall project. I think I taped my first joint at least 3 times before
> I was satisfied--using wet tape the last time! Tape and mud are really
> cheap, don't be ashamed to ask for a "do-over"! : ) I'm the same
> poster who suggested using a halogen lamp too (after sanding).
> I also recommend a sanding pole you can attach to your shop-vac (with
> appropriate bag and filter), for the sake of your health. The price is
> reasonable. If any experts think they know better than me, it's probably
> true, and I defer to them. Good luck and have fun!

Have fun? With drywall taping and mudding? What world are you living in?

On 10/18/2021 4:09 AM, russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:

> Have fun? With drywall taping and mudding? What world are you living in?
>

You make it sound so dry... like Durabond 90! ; )

On Monday, October 18, 2021 at 7:49:56 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> On 10/18/2021 4:09 AM, russell...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > Have fun? With drywall taping and mudding? What world are you living in?
> >
> You make it sound so dry... like Durabond 90! ; )

Not sure about dry. But I have sanded drywall dry. But now I like to use a wet rag to smooth the dried mud out. That is much better. As for fun, the most fun I ever had hanging drywall, and taping and mudding it, was when I was all done with the job. Then I would party, sort of. Unlike electrical, which I love to do, I just don't get any joy at all out of drywall. I wish I never ever had to hang or patch drywall ever again.

On Mon, 18 Oct 2021 10:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "russellseaton1@yahoo.com"
<ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Monday, October 18, 2021 at 7:49:56 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>> On 10/18/2021 4:09 AM, russell...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> > Have fun? With drywall taping and mudding? What world are you living in?
>> >
>> You make it sound so dry... like Durabond 90! ; )
>
>Not sure about dry. But I have sanded drywall dry. But now I like to use a wet rag to smooth the dried mud out. That is much better. As for fun, the most fun I ever had hanging drywall, and taping and mudding it, was when I was all done with the job. Then I would party, sort of. Unlike electrical, which I love to do, I just don't get any joy at all out of drywall. I wish I never ever had to hang or patch drywall ever again.
It IS one of the worst jobs - next to wall-papering - - - -
Not far behind is repairing leaking plumbing pipes where there is
always a little bit more water finding it's way to the repair site.
Sometimes it is enough to make me go for a shark-byte.

On 10/18/2021 3:44 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2021 10:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "russellseaton1@yahoo.com"
> <ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Monday, October 18, 2021 at 7:49:56 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>>> On 10/18/2021 4:09 AM, russell...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Have fun? With drywall taping and mudding? What world are you living in?
>>>>
>>> You make it sound so dry... like Durabond 90! ; )
>>
>> Not sure about dry. But I have sanded drywall dry. But now I like to use a wet rag to smooth the dried mud out. That is much better. As for fun, the most fun I ever had hanging drywall, and taping and mudding it, was when I was all done with the job. Then I would party, sort of. Unlike electrical, which I love to do, I just don't get any joy at all out of drywall. I wish I never ever had to hang or patch drywall ever again.
> It IS one of the worst jobs - next to wall-papering - - - -
> Not far behind is repairing leaking plumbing pipes where there is
> always a little bit more water finding it's way to the repair site.
> Sometimes it is enough to make me go for a shark-byte.
>
The worst job fixing a clogged sewer pipe, where you must open it to get
access for the snake.

"Bill" wrote in message news:RA4bJ.241324$T_8.65219@fx48.iad...

>Once you have the mud up there, you'll do what you have to do to make it
>work, one piece of tape or three pieces. Just watch a YouTube video first.
>In fact, you may start with one piece, and go back the next day, rip some
>off, find that you have three after that. The single thing which immensely
>improved the quality of my taping the most was to dunk the paper tape into
>water first. After that it got embedded in the mud "real good"! Before I
>started doing that, there were places where the tape dried with air gaps.
>The single thing I remember learning (from a

Those problems are all but eliminated with a tool like the TapeBuddy... no
wetting of the paper tape is needed and you get a good even coat on the
paper with a little practice.

On Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:46:19 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
<nospam.grossboj@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>"Bill" wrote in message news:RA4bJ.241324$T_8.65219@fx48.iad...
>
>>Once you have the mud up there, you'll do what you have to do to make it
>>work, one piece of tape or three pieces. Just watch a YouTube video first.
>>In fact, you may start with one piece, and go back the next day, rip some
>>off, find that you have three after that. The single thing which immensely
>>improved the quality of my taping the most was to dunk the paper tape into
>>water first. After that it got embedded in the mud "real good"! Before I
>>started doing that, there were places where the tape dried with air gaps.
>>The single thing I remember learning (from a
>
>Those problems are all but eliminated with a tool like the TapeBuddy... no
>wetting of the paper tape is needed and you get a good even coat on the
>paper with a little practice.
Nothing like a Bazooka -- similar to the "banjo" mentioned earlier.