>>cross-posted<<

Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
.. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...

On 10/08/2021 05:25 PM, Snag wrote:
> >>cross-posted<<
>
> Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
> from the condition of the outside .
> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
> be salvageable ...
> The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
> done periodically .
> So kids , which shall it be ?

I've never used Evapo-Rust and their safety sheets play it close to the
vest claiming it's 85% water and a proprietary chelator/detergent.

Otoh I've used phosphoric to get the rust out of bike tanks before
recoating them. It attacks rust but not sound metal and leaves a
phosphate film. The film is nice. I used to use hydrochloric but that
leaves a super clean surface that rusts before your eyes if you don't
get something on it fast.

Phosphoric is usually over around masonry supplies since it's used for
etching concrete. A gallon will be a lot cheaper than Naval Jelly or
some of the other fancy phosphoric acid products.

If you're a real redneck just pour in a can of Coke since it contains
phosphoric acid too. Since Coke Went Woke that's about all the shit is
good for.

Black powder is rough on bores. I might get lazy and just run a bore
snake a few times for smokeless but black powder needs a thorough
douching with soap and hot water. My brother in law cobbled up a length
of rigid tubing with a hose to screw on the tap of a laundry sink that
worked great if as messy as hell.

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10705

That's another way.

On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>   >>cross-posted<<
>
>  Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
> from the condition of the outside .
>   I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
> be salvageable ...
>   The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
> done periodically .
>   So kids , which shall it be ?

I've used EvaporRust and its "okay." It neutralizes most rust, but in
the case of a muzzle loader bore I'd probably power a brass brush
through at several times, and then take a look at what's left. The
biggest issue would be if the muzzle is eroded. The crown and muzzle
are as important to accuracy as the rifling. Honestly some pretty bad
rifling can still spin stabilize the bullet, but the muzzle needs to be
uniform. Often if the crown is messed up they can be recrowned.

I've shot BP since my mid teens. Maybe 40 years. Not an expert... well
except at doing things wrong.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 10/8/2021 8:37 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>>    >>cross-posted<<
>>
>>   Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks
>> . Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit
>> ago and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I
>> expected from the condition of the outside .
>>    I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
>> and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
>> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I
>> won't know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel
>> may not be salvageable ...
>>    The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
>> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with
>> solution . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh
>> solution will be done periodically .
>>    So kids , which shall it be ?
>
>
> I've used EvaporRust and its "okay."  It neutralizes most rust, but in
> the case of a muzzle loader bore I'd probably power a brass brush
> through at several times, and then take a look at what's left.  The
> biggest issue would be if the muzzle is eroded.  The crown and muzzle
> are as important to accuracy as the rifling.  Honestly some pretty bad
> rifling can still spin stabilize the bullet, but the muzzle needs to be
> uniform.  Often if the crown is messed up they can be recrowned.
>
> I've shot BP since my mid teens.  Maybe 40 years.  Not an expert... well
> except at doing things wrong.
>

I think there's decent rifling under the rust , for sure the muzzle
and the last couple of inches look not too bad, we'll see after I scrub
it out . I hesitate to use anything solvent based , I think soap and
water first off with a brass brush . Somewhere around here I think I
have a small bottle of JB's Bore Scrub . I used that stuff to polish a
22-250 bore many years ago and it went from 3/4" groups to under 5/8 '
.... actually I almost hope it needs to be rebarrelled . Gives me a
chance to maybe build a .36 to match my C&B revolver .
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...

On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
>   I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
Citric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.

On 10/8/2021 11:14 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
> On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
>>    I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
>> and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
> Citric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
> is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
> acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
> afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.

I think we have a bottle of powdered CA on the shelf ... we use it
when we can tomatoes !
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

"Snag" wrote in message news:sjr5it$hmk$1@dont-email.me...

On 10/8/2021 11:14 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
> On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
>> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
>> and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
> Citric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
> is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
> acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
> afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.

I think we have a bottle of powdered CA on the shelf ... we use it
when we can tomatoes !

Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

--------------------------

How about electrolytic derusting??

On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:sjr5it$hmk$1@dont-email.me...
> On 10/8/2021 11:14 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
>> On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
>>>    I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
>>> and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
>> Citric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
>> is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
>> acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
>> afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.
>
>   I think we have a bottle of powdered CA on the shelf ... we use it
> when we can tomatoes !
>
> Snag
>  Let's Go Brandon !
>
> --------------------------
>
> How about electrolytic derusting??
>

I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

On Friday, October 8, 2021 at 6:25:54 PM UTC-5, Snag wrote:
> >>cross-posted<<
>
> Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
> from the condition of the outside .
> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
> be salvageable ...
> The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
> done periodically .
> So kids , which shall it be ?
> --
> Snag
> Race only matters to racists ...

One not mentioned, Oxalic acid...
https://azrust.com/oxalic-acid-for-rust-removal/

"wws" wrote in message
news:afe29c65-03ef-451c-8c7d-4c59c9696c16n@googlegroups.com...

On Friday, October 8, 2021 at 6:25:54 PM UTC-5, Snag wrote:
> >>cross-posted<<
>
> Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
> from the condition of the outside .
> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
> be salvageable ...
> The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
> done periodically .
> So kids , which shall it be ?
> --
> Snag
> Race only matters to racists ...

One not mentioned, Oxalic acid...
https://azrust.com/oxalic-acid-for-rust-removal/

-----------------------

https://www.woodreview.com.au/how-to/removing-rust

Be careful, oxalic acid is toxic.

"Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...

On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> How about electrolytic derusting??
>

I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .

------------

I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I
bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing
adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear strength.
Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and line them
with Flex or liquid electrical tape.

On 10/09/2021 10:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> How about electrolytic derusting??
>>
>
> I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
> much circulation of the solution .
>
> ------------
>
> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I
> bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing
> adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
> strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
> line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>

http://www.zoneballistic.com/colinsballistics/borecleaner.html

No idea if it works but the shrink tubing idea sounds good.

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:

> Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
> from the condition of the outside .
>
> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation.

As a long-time blacksmith with an equally long conflict with rust, I'm
for phospohoric acid. Residual iron phosphate is good but you're
proably going to polish that away.

If your shop is chilly, heat the acid bath to high room temp, say 80F.
If there's flakey rust, periodically remove it manually and return to
the bath.

> The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution.
>
> Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
> done periodically .

Yeah, that. Except if the bore brush is bronze, maybe you don't want
to get it into the acid?

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

"rbowman" wrote in message news:ise2ecFt4adU1@mid.individual.net...

On 10/09/2021 10:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> How about electrolytic derusting??
>>
>
> I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
> much circulation of the solution .
>
> ------------
>
> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I
> bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing
> adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
> strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
> line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>

http://www.zoneballistic.com/colinsballistics/borecleaner.html

No idea if it works but the shrink tubing idea sounds good.

--------------------------

Thanks. I have fiberglass braided sleeving ( high temp insulation) I could
use but I'd be surprised if anyone else does.

Ammonia, citric and oxalic acid all cluster around metal ions and make them
soluble in water. They generally don't attack solid metal as much as the
stronger acids do.
https://www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/254/chelating-agent

When I had KP I noticed that pouring leftover Army coffee over the formerly
galvanized sinks would rust strip all the new rust off.

"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
news:87sfxahrt4.fsf@bogus.nodomain.nowhere...

Yeah, that. Except if the bore brush is bronze, maybe you don't want
to get it into the acid?

-------------------

Acids can dissolve Nylon too.
http://kmac-plastics.net/data/chemical/nylon-chemical-.htm

On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> How about electrolytic derusting??
>>
>
>  I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
> much circulation of the solution .
>
> ------------
>
> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I
> bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing
> adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
> strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
> line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>

Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
a PVC pipe full of electrolyte with an aquarium pump air stone
alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
over at the Logan Lathe email list .
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

On 10/10/21 3:11 am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "wws"  wrote in message
> news:afe29c65-03ef-451c-8c7d-4c59c9696c16n@googlegroups.com...
>
> On Friday, October 8, 2021 at 6:25:54 PM UTC-5, Snag wrote:
>> >>cross-posted<<
>>
>> Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
>> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
>> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
>> from the condition of the outside .
>> I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
>> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
>> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
>> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
>> be salvageable ...
>> The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
>> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
>> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
>> done periodically .
>> So kids , which shall it be ?
>> --
>> Snag
>> Race only matters to racists ...
>
> One not mentioned, Oxalic acid...
> https://azrust.com/oxalic-acid-for-rust-removal/
>
> -----------------------
>
> https://www.woodreview.com.au/how-to/removing-rust
>
> Be careful, oxalic acid is toxic.

Oxalic toxicity is over-rated. In excess, it crystallizes to form kidney
stones. We eat rhubarb because it has that nice oxalic taste, but we
don't eat the leaves because they have too much.

Another note: oxalic acid is used to treat black iron tannate stains
from nails in timber-work. It converts it to the invisible iron oxalate.
That's what's used in products like Kleen-wood, etc.

On 10/09/2021 03:23 PM, Snag wrote:
> On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> How about electrolytic derusting??
>>>
>>
>> I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
>> much circulation of the solution .
>>
>> ------------
>>
>> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
>> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
>> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough?
>> I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized
>> tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low
>> tear strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from
>> wood and line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>>
>
> Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
> HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
> a PVC pipe full of electrolyte with an aquarium pump air stone
> alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
> over at the Logan Lathe email list .

I've used an aquarium pump when etching circuit boards to keep things
stirred up. It worked great. Well, as great as anything involving ferric
chloride can be.

Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
> On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>> ?? >>cross-posted<<
>>
>> ??Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
>> Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
>> and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
>> from the condition of the outside .
>> ?? I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
>> Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
>> intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
>> know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
>> be salvageable ...
>> ?? The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
>> inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
>> . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
>> done periodically .
>> ?? So kids , which shall it be ?
>
>
> I've used EvaporRust and its "okay." It neutralizes most rust, but in

I've had mixed results with evaporust. It does remove rust, but it will
then suddenly darken steel, and that's even harder to clean.

"Snag" wrote in message news:sjt190$gho$1@dont-email.me...

On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I
> bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing
> adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
> strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
> line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>

Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
a PVC pipe full of electrolyte with an aquarium pump air stone
alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
over at the Logan Lathe email list .
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

-------------------

OK. I was trying to think of a setup that wouldn't affect the bluing or
browning on the outside.

On 10/10/2021 5:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:sjt190$gho$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
>> difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
>> central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough?
>> I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized
>> tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low
>> tear strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from
>> wood and line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
>>
>
>   Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
> HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
> a PVC pipe full of electrolyte  with an aquarium pump air stone
> alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
> over at the Logan Lathe email list .
> Snag
>  Let's Go Brandon !
>
> -------------------
>
> OK. I was trying to think of a setup that wouldn't affect the bluing or
> browning on the outside.
>

It's blued , but it has some rust too . It'll be brown when I'm
finished with it .
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

On 10/8/2021 8:31 PM, Snag wrote:
> On 10/8/2021 8:37 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>    >>cross-posted<<
>>>
>>>   Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks
>>> . Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit
>>> ago and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I
>>> expected from the condition of the outside .
>>>    I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
>>> and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation .
>>> I intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I
>>> won't know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel
>>> may not be salvageable ...
>>>    The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick
>>> it inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with
>>> solution . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh
>>> solution will be done periodically .
>>>    So kids , which shall it be ?
>>
>>
>> I've used EvaporRust and its "okay."  It neutralizes most rust, but in
>> the case of a muzzle loader bore I'd probably power a brass brush
>> through at several times, and then take a look at what's left.  The
>> biggest issue would be if the muzzle is eroded.  The crown and muzzle
>> are as important to accuracy as the rifling.  Honestly some pretty bad
>> rifling can still spin stabilize the bullet, but the muzzle needs to
>> be uniform.  Often if the crown is messed up they can be recrowned.
>>
>> I've shot BP since my mid teens.  Maybe 40 years.  Not an expert...
>> well except at doing things wrong.
>>
>
>   I think there's decent rifling under the rust , for sure the muzzle
> and the last couple of inches look not too bad, we'll see after I scrub
> it out . I hesitate to use anything solvent based , I think soap and
> water first off with a brass brush . Somewhere around here I think I
> have a small bottle of JB's Bore Scrub . I used that stuff to polish a
> 22-250 bore many years ago and it went from 3/4" groups to under 5/8 '
> ... actually I almost hope it needs to be rebarrelled . Gives me a
> chance to maybe build a .36 to match my C&B revolver .

My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get away
years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found Dixie
Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums that Pietta
likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.

Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269

So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher power
airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there isn't one.
Its just something I'ld like to know about.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:

>
> My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit.  I let it get away
> years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again.  I found Dixie
> Gunworks sold a Pietta kit.  Its rumored on Internet forums that Pietta
> likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
>
> Timed to start at the big reveal.
> https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
>
> So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner?  I've looked at
> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher power
> airgun builds.  I don't recall a .36 liner.  Not that there isn't one.
> Its just something I'ld like to know about.
>

My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope intended
for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I followed up
the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy version of the 1858
Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and polishing the frame , wood
, and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much he bought and built a .45
Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44 revolver . I got the revolver ,
one of my brothers got the Kentucky Rifle .
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !

On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
> On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>
>>
>> My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit.  I let it get away
>> years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again.  I found Dixie
>> Gunworks sold a Pietta kit.  Its rumored on Internet forums that
>> Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
>>
>> Timed to start at the big reveal.
>> https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
>>
>> So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner?  I've looked at
>> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
>> power airgun builds.  I don't recall a .36 liner.  Not that there
>> isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
>>
>
>   My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
> corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope intended
> for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I followed up
> the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy version of the 1858
> Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and polishing the frame , wood
> , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much he bought and built a .45
> Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44 revolver . I got the revolver ,
> one of my brothers got the Kentucky Rifle .

I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at the
moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent some
other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
>> On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit.  I let it get
>>> away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again.  I found
>>> Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit.  Its rumored on Internet forums
>>> that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
>>>
>>> Timed to start at the big reveal.
>>> https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
>>>
>>> So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner?  I've looked at
>>> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
>>> power airgun builds.  I don't recall a .36 liner.  Not that there
>>> isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
>>>
>>
>>    My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
>> corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
>> intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
>> followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy version
>> of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and polishing the
>> frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much he bought and
>> built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44 revolver . I got
>> the revolver , one of my brothers got the Kentucky Rifle .
>
> I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at the
> moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
> hammer.  It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
> have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
> resistance.  I haven't decided to "do it" just yet.  Lots of other
> projects going.  It would require off gun loading unless I invent some
> other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
>
>

Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess it
wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point (more or
less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or fabricate a new
hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it matter to you to be
able to restore it to original ? I think you'd want to make a new drum
and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder ... would you want the
flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the increased gas output from the
209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw competitor , they use 209's as the
propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in my
head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear down
my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive gear/countershaft 5th
pair and the primary chain and both sprockets . Plus next week I'll be
bringing my truck home (son in Memphis , Grrr.) with the potential of
rebuilding the motor because it got ran out of oil - not his fault ,
broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T light . I'll bore scope the
cylinders when I get it home and decide then which way to go . I might
be lucky and it didn't damage the cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he
thought it had seized so ... If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back
together stock !
--
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !