On 10/21/2021 2:45 PM, Snag wrote:
> On 10/21/2021 3:56 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 10/21/2021 12:58 PM, Snag wrote:
>>> On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
>>>>> On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit.  I let it get
>>>>>> away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again.  I found
>>>>>> Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit.  Its rumored on Internet forums
>>>>>> that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Timed to start at the big reveal.
>>>>>> https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner?  I've looked at
>>>>>> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
>>>>>> power airgun builds.  I don't recall a .36 liner.  Not that there
>>>>>> isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>    My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in
>>>>> a corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
>>>>> intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be .
>>>>> I followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
>>>>> version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
>>>>> polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
>>>>> much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
>>>>> .44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
>>>>> Kentucky Rifle .
>>>>
>>>> I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
>>>> the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing
>>>> pin hammer.  It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it
>>>> should have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better
>>>> weather resistance.  I haven't decided to "do it" just yet.  Lots of
>>>> other projects going.  It would require off gun loading unless I
>>>> invent some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make
>>>> a couple.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
>>> it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point
>>> (more or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or
>>> fabricate a new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it
>>> matter to you to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd
>>> want to make a new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder
>>> ... would you want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the
>>> increased gas output from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw
>>> competitor , they use 209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
>>
>> I think it would be no big deal to duplicate the hammer with a hammer
>> held firing pin much like many early cartridge revolvers like the .32
>> S&W and the H&R 922 .22 among many others.  I think ideally the firing
>> pin should depress the primer just enough as the area around it lays
>> flat across the primer.  Should help reduce primer bulge or primer pop
>> as well.  With a setup like that I'd start with a light load and work
>> up until either I got primer bulge or I got similar velocities to
>> regular #10/11 cap guns.
>>
>>
>>>    Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in
>>> my head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
>>> down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
>>> gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
>>> Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis ,
>>> Grrr.) with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran
>>> out of oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T
>>> light . I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide
>>> then which way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the
>>> cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ...
>>> If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back together stock !
>>
>> Good luck.  I've gotten to hate working on vehicles.  Only reason I do
>> it is because I hate paying somebody to do it wrong or not do what I
>> asked even more.  To many times in my youth I was up late fixing my
>> vehicle so I could make it to work the next morning.  Usually very
>> early.  One time I got home early with a need for sleep when smoke
>> poured out from under the dash because the entire wiring harness
>> suddenly melted down.  I was up until 3am chasing wires so I could be
>> to work by 6:30.  It wasn't the first time I had set that car on fire
>> either.  The first time there was less smoke, but more fire when a
>> hydraulic clutch line burst spraying fluid all over a red hot header
>> pipe.  I hate working on vehicles.  When I can I get my son to do it.
>> He's not the world's best mechanic, but with him I can work in the
>> shop and walk out every once in a while to double check his work.  He
>> also follows directions fairly well, and he isn't afraid to tell me
>> when I am just plane wrong.
>>
>>
>
>   I don't hate it ... I just don't enjoy it as much as I did 40 years
> ago .
>   I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
> cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you
> say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but
> unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take
> shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions
> . I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
> the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
>   I gotta say , I'm kinda looking forward to building this motor . The
> GM 305 has a lot of potential , I'm thinking a low RPM torque cam , say
> around .460" lift and around 270° duration with around 9.25 CR , a mid
> rise manifold (Edelbrock Torker ?) and some small tube headers . It's
> got a 700R4 trans , and I'll be installing that set of 3.42's that are
> sitting next to my desk in the axle . It's not going to be a screamer ,
> just a decent truck with snappy acceleration .

I've repaired two transmissions in my life. One was a Turbo 350 in a 71
Caprice. I tore it completely apart, and was prepared to tank all the
parts I was reusing. I had them in a crate behind the parts washer at
our hardware store. Somebody decided to use the parts washer, and
dumped the brick on top (to keep it from blowing open) into my box of
parts by lifting the lid instead of setting it aside. It broke a
(piston?) large ring with a seal and springs mounted on it. I was broke
after buying the rebuild kit so I was stuck. I think my dad broke it
because he scrapped another transmission to get me a replacement piston
out of another 350. It was the same dimensions, but had fewer springs
on it. I put it all together and it worked great for a couple months,
and then progressively started to fail. It got worse and worse. I left
the car behind on a fairgrounds in Redlands California because it
wouldn't move. The other was a manual transmission in a Ford F150. I
didn't even take the transmission out. I just ripped out the floor
liner, pulled the floor cover, pulled the top of the transmission out,
and snapped on new nylon shifting fork riders. Worked perfectly.

In the past I wrenched because I had to. Now I wrench because I hate
paying somebody to not quite do it right. I can not quite do it right
myself and make my own decision about whether or not its good enough
instead of being surprised when I have to walk home.

I'm a big fan of RV cams (long duration) in "trucks." I put one in a
1982 Bronco with a 351. It would slow walk at idle in first almost as
slow as an old 4 banger Jeep and climb a steep grade doing it. The
other was a 76 Ford F150 (yeah the one above) with a bored over 360. It
would slow walk (crawl) ok, but the big thing is it would tow almost
anything. Not much top end, but if you kept it in its power band when
you shifted it would get to top end in a hurry. That truck had so much
torque I had to drill and bolt through the motor mounts because they
kept tearing when the engine lifted up.

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