The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
And it's getting worse.

ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
sort of graphite base lubricant.

Can anyone advise?

[1] it's only 4 years old - nothing lasts nowadays ...
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:

>The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>And it's getting worse.
>
>ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>sort of graphite base lubricant.

I should have just googled it - found this
https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572

>Can anyone advise?

Still interested in any relevant advice
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old

On 31/08/2022 13:22, Champ wrote:
> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:
>
>> The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>> tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>> And it's getting worse.
>>
>> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>> sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
> I should have just googled it - found this
> https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>
>> Can anyone advise?
>
> Still interested in any relevant advice

Time to buy a new bike.

On 31/08/2022 13:13, Champ wrote:
> The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
> tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
> And it's getting worse.
>
> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
> sort of graphite base lubricant.

Shouldn't you?
That mens all my bikes are buggered then :-)

--
Bruce Porter
"The internet is a huge and diverse community but mainly friendly"
http://ytc1.blogspot.co.uk/
There *is* an alternative! http://www.openoffice.org/

Champ wrote:

> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:
>
> > The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
> > tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
> > And it's getting worse.
> >
> > ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
> > sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
> I should have just googled it - found this
>
https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>
> > Can anyone advise?
>
> Still interested in any relevant advice

AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.
Maybe it's worth trying a blast of contact cleaner first on the chance
that some foreign body is causing the stickness?

--
Geoff
NTV 650

On 31/08/2022 13:22, Champ wrote:
>On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:
>
>>The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>>tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>>And it's getting worse.
>>
>>ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>>sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
>I should have just googled it - found this
>https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
>and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>
>>Can anyone advise?
>
>Still interested in any relevant advice

I would never ever use anything graphited near electrical stuff! The same
goes for coppered grease. I have personal experience of sorting out
problems of this sort where unwanted electrical connections were
unwittingly made.

Its just not worth the risk. Modern electronics are even more susceptible to
stray leakage.
HTH

Chris

--
XV750SE & GS550T

On 31/08/2022 15:22, GeoffC wrote:
>Champ wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:
>>
>> > The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>> > tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>> > And it's getting worse.
>> >
>> > ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>> > sort of graphite base lubricant.
>>
>> I should have just googled it - found this
>>
>https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
>> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>>
>> > Can anyone advise?
>>
>> Still interested in any relevant advice
>
>AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
>problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
>entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.
>Maybe it's worth trying a blast of contact cleaner first on the chance
>that some foreign body is causing the stickness?
>
Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong 'cleaners'
which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or maybe 'etchant'
is a better word? Good in the right place but not anywhere sensitive like
a lock.
Contact cleaner is likely to be less of an issue in this way.
HTH etc
Chris

--
XV750SE & GS550T

On 31/08/2022 13:13, Champ wrote:
> The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
> tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
> And it's getting worse.
>
> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
> sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
> Can anyone advise?

I usually use some kind of PTFE lubricant in locks, whether that be
ignition switches or the padlocks on the sheds.

You can pay for the WD-40 branded version, or save some pounds and buy a
generic version. Local tool store or motor factors should be able to
provide something suitable.

> [1] it's only 4 years old - nothing lasts nowadays ...

Cheap Japanese rubbish. Haven't had that problem with the 6 year old
KTM, and that lived outside for nearly four years.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 14:22:12 -0000 (UTC), "GeoffC" <me@home.nl> wrote:

>Champ wrote:

>> I should have just googled it - found this
>>
>https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
>> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572

>AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
>problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
>entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.

Yes, that's what the article says, and why graphite (not oil) is the
preferred solution
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 16:09:09 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:

>I usually use some kind of PTFE lubricant in locks, whether that be
>ignition switches or the padlocks on the sheds.

ah, ok

>> [1] it's only 4 years old - nothing lasts nowadays ...

>Cheap Japanese rubbish. Haven't had that problem with the 6 year old
>KTM, and that lived outside for nearly four years.

Interesting. Was the KTM faultless in all other respects?
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old

On 31/08/2022 16:04, chrisnd @ukrm wrote:
> On 31/08/2022 15:22, GeoffC wrote:
>> Champ wrote:

>>
>> AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
>> problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
>> entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.
>> Maybe it's worth trying a blast of contact cleaner first on the chance
>> that some foreign body is causing the stickness?
>>
> Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong  'cleaners'
> which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or maybe 'etchant'
> is a better word?  Good in the right place but not anywhere sensitive like
> a lock.
> Contact cleaner is likely to be less of an issue in this way.

Cluch and brake cleaner?

--
Bruce Porter
"The internet is a huge and diverse community but mainly friendly"
http://ytc1.blogspot.co.uk/
There *is* an alternative! http://www.openoffice.org/

On 31/08/2022 16:09, Eddie wrote:
> On 31/08/2022 13:13, Champ wrote:
>> The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>> tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>> And it's getting worse.
>>
>> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>> sort of graphite base lubricant.
>>
>> Can anyone advise?
>
> I usually use some kind of PTFE lubricant in locks, whether that be
> ignition switches or the padlocks on the sheds.
>
> You can pay for the WD-40 branded version, or save some pounds and buy a
> generic version. Local tool store or motor factors should be able to
> provide something suitable.
>
>> [1] it's only 4 years old - nothing lasts nowadays ...
>
> Cheap Japanese rubbish. Haven't had that problem with the 6 year old
> KTM, and that lived outside for nearly four years.
>

Why did it take you so long to fix it?

--
Bruce Porter
"The internet is a huge and diverse community but mainly friendly"
http://ytc1.blogspot.co.uk/
There *is* an alternative! http://www.openoffice.org/

On Wednesday, 31 August 2022 at 15:25:56 UTC+1, chrisnd @ukrm wrote:
> On 31/08/2022 13:22, Champ wrote:
> >On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <ne...@champ.org.uk> wrote:
> >
> >>The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
> >>tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
> >>And it's getting worse.
> >>
> >>ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
> >>sort of graphite base lubricant.
> >
> >I should have just googled it - found this
> >https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
> >and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
> >
> >>Can anyone advise?
> >
> >Still interested in any relevant advice
> I would never ever use anything graphited near electrical stuff! The same
> goes for coppered grease. I have personal experience of sorting out
> problems of this sort where unwanted electrical connections were
> unwittingly made.
>
> Its just not worth the risk. Modern electronics are even more susceptible to
> stray leakage.
> HTH

The ignition switch isn't really electrical though, is it? It's a traditional lock that
turns an electrical switch with the switch being sealed; or at least all the ones
I've ever looked at are.

Personally I'd use contact cleaner to flush it and then blow it dry with air. Then I'd
be happy to put graphite in it... but carefully since the bottles can dump a lot in and
that can cause its own mechanical problems (jamming things).

In the past I've used PTFE spray, just a bit cautious now not because of experience
but what I've read of other people's experience.

Champ wrote:

> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
> sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
> Can anyone advise?

I've had a similar problem with my old Yamaha Tenere - I used contact
cleaner which cleaned out the dirt and it was ok after that.

--
Simon

On 31 Aug 2022 15:04:20 GMT, "chrisnd @ukrm" <chrisnd@privacy.net>
wrote:

>Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong 'cleaners'
> which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or maybe 'etchant'
> is a better word?

I thought the whole idea of the stuff was preservation.

--

-Pip

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <neal@champ.org.uk> wrote:

>The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>And it's getting worse.
>
>ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>sort of graphite base lubricant.
>
>Can anyone advise?
>

I used wd40 and it gradually got worse.
Contact cleaner (and often brake cleaner!) every now and again kept my
XT lock going.
--
Mark Roberts

Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote in
news:ptfvghp6muad1nu68d6m4fejic1762293d@4ax.com:

> On 31 Aug 2022 15:04:20 GMT, "chrisnd @ukrm" <chrisnd@privacy.net>
> wrote:
>
>>Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
>> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong
>> 'cleaners' which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or
>> maybe 'etchant' is a better word?
>
> I thought the whole idea of the stuff was preservation.
>

I thought the corrosive or etchant claims were bollocks as well

whilst the exact recipe is a trade secret, most sources say WD40 is mostly
hydrocarbons in the form of alkanes (paraffins) and mineral oil

On 31/08/2022 23:09, wessie wrote:
> Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote in
> news:ptfvghp6muad1nu68d6m4fejic1762293d@4ax.com:
>
>> On 31 Aug 2022 15:04:20 GMT, "chrisnd @ukrm" <chrisnd@privacy.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
>>> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong
>>> 'cleaners' which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or
>>> maybe 'etchant' is a better word?
>>
>> I thought the whole idea of the stuff was preservation.
>>
>
> I thought the corrosive or etchant claims were bollocks as well
>
> whilst the exact recipe is a trade secret, most sources say WD40 is mostly
> hydrocarbons in the form of alkanes (paraffins) and mineral oil

As its original function is water displacement (hence "WD"), I can't see
what role corrosives or etchants would have.

On 31/08/2022 16:44, Champ wrote:
> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 16:09:09 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:
>
>> Cheap Japanese rubbish. Haven't had that problem with the 6 year old
>> KTM, and that lived outside for nearly four years.
>
> Interesting. Was the KTM faultless in all other respects?

SORRY, WHAT WAS THAT? CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE 'CHARACTERISTIC' RATTLE!

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

On 31/08/2022 17:09, YTC#1 wrote:
>
> On 31/08/2022 16:09, Eddie wrote:
>>
>> Cheap Japanese rubbish. Haven't had that problem with the 6 year old
>> KTM, and that lived outside for nearly four years.
>
> Why did it take you so long to fix it?

What, the lack of garage? Inefficient council planning department,
overzealous conservation officer, lack of suitable tradesmen, Brexit,
pandemic, building material shortages, etc. etc.

What a PITA.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

On 31/08/2022 17:28, Stephen Packer wrote:
> On Wednesday, 31 August 2022 at 15:25:56 UTC+1, chrisnd @ukrm wrote:
>> On 31/08/2022 13:22, Champ wrote:
>>> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 13:13:31 +0100, Champ <ne...@champ.org.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The ignition switch on my H2 SX [1] is getting troublesome - it's
>>>> tricky to get the key in, turn it on, turn it off, and to remove it.
>>>> And it's getting worse.
>>>>
>>>> ISTR reading on here ages ago that you shouldn't use WD40, but some
>>>> sort of graphite base lubricant.
>>>
>>> I should have just googled it - found this
>>> https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
>>> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>>>
>>>> Can anyone advise?
>>>
>>> Still interested in any relevant advice
>> I would never ever use anything graphited near electrical stuff! The same
>> goes for coppered grease. I have personal experience of sorting out
>> problems of this sort where unwanted electrical connections were
>> unwittingly made.
>>
>> Its just not worth the risk. Modern electronics are even more susceptible to
>> stray leakage.
>> HTH
>
> The ignition switch isn't really electrical though, is it? It's a traditional lock that
> turns an electrical switch with the switch being sealed; or at least all the ones
> I've ever looked at are.

Lets just say I have 'differing experiences' :-)

> Personally I'd use contact cleaner to flush it and then blow it dry with air. Then I'd
> be happy to put graphite in it... but carefully since the bottles can dump a lot in and
> that can cause its own mechanical problems (jamming things).
>
> In the past I've used PTFE spray, just a bit cautious now not because of experience
> but what I've read of other people's experience.

Yes, PTFE is doable in my book too

Chris

--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

On 31/08/2022 23:30, Mike Fleming wrote:
> On 31/08/2022 23:09, wessie wrote:
>> Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote in
>> news:ptfvghp6muad1nu68d6m4fejic1762293d@4ax.com:
>>
>>> On 31 Aug 2022 15:04:20 GMT, "chrisnd @ukrm" <chrisnd@privacy.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
>>>> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong
>>>> 'cleaners' which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or
>>>> maybe 'etchant' is a better word?
>>>
>>> I thought the whole idea of the stuff was preservation.
>>>
>>
>> I thought the corrosive or etchant claims were bollocks as well
>>
>> whilst the exact recipe is a trade secret, most sources say WD40 is
>> mostly
>> hydrocarbons in the form of alkanes (paraffins) and mineral oil
>
> As its original function is water displacement (hence "WD"), I can't see
> what role corrosives or etchants would have.

I notice the words 'mostly' and 'original' in the two preceding
sentences/responses. I wouldn't disagree with them BUT the product has
evolved into cure-all for lubricant, moisture displacer, penetrating
oil, easing oil, cleaner and goodness knows what else.

Its brilliant for a first strike but I'd rather use something more
dedicated where I can - such as a thin oil for locks that is just an oil
- not 3-in-1!

But maybe I'm just old-fashioned that way?

Chris
--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 23:30:58 +0100, Mike Fleming <mike@tauzero.co.uk>
wrote:

>On 31/08/2022 23:09, wessie wrote:
>> Pipl <pluscher@live.co.uk> wrote in
>> news:ptfvghp6muad1nu68d6m4fejic1762293d@4ax.com:
>>
>>> On 31 Aug 2022 15:04:20 GMT, "chrisnd @ukrm" <chrisnd@privacy.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, I'd go with contact cleaner too. The problem with WD40 is that in
>>>> addition to the oils and solvents, it also contains strong
>>>> 'cleaners' which can be, for want of a better word, 'corrosive' - or
>>>> maybe 'etchant' is a better word?
>>>
>>> I thought the whole idea of the stuff was preservation.
>>>
>>
>> I thought the corrosive or etchant claims were bollocks as well
>>
>> whilst the exact recipe is a trade secret, most sources say WD40 is mostly
>> hydrocarbons in the form of alkanes (paraffins) and mineral oil
>
>As its original function is water displacement (hence "WD"), I can't see
>what role corrosives or etchants would have.

I always thought it was just because it will also wash away heavy
grease or oil, e.g. on chains, while itself being relatively easily
washed away afterwards.
--
Ace
http://www.chaletbeauroc.com/

On 31/08/2022 16:43, Champ wrote:
> On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 14:22:12 -0000 (UTC), "GeoffC" <me@home.nl> wrote:
>
>> Champ wrote:
>
>>> I should have just googled it - found this
>>>
>> https://ridinggearwarehouse.com/the-riders-blog/how-to-lubricate-your-motorcycle-ignition-and-locks/
>>> and then ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255405163572
>
>> AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
>> problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
>> entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.
>
> Yes, that's what the article says, and why graphite (not oil) is the
> preferred solution

I presume that there's no risk of an electrical short circuit?

On Thu, 1 Sep 2022 15:26:41 +0100, Tim <nobody@home.co.uk> wrote:

>>> AIUI, most locks are designed to work without any lubricant. The
>>> problem with putting any kind of oil in there is that any dust or dirt
>>> entering will just stick and gum the works up eventually.
>> Yes, that's what the article says, and why graphite (not oil) is the
>> preferred solution

>I presume that there's no risk of an electrical short circuit?

As Steve P says elsewhere, the ignition switch isn't really an
electrical component. It's a lock, the turning of which (with a key)
rotates an electrical switch.
--
Champ
neal at champ dot org dot uk

I don't know, but I been told
You never slow down, you never grow old