I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.

I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)

Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling

So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
the ceiling light fitting in the room.

Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?

If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
room) have no windows.

Stephen.

On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>
> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.
>
>
>
> Stephen.

Is this a private residence, or, say, an HMO or hotel?

On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?

The light fitting in the room. That way, the emergency light will come
on if the circuit supplying the light fails but the one supplying the
detector does not.

>
> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.
>
>
>
> Stephen.

--
Colin Bignell

On 11/11/2022 14:37, GB wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>
>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>
>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>
>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>
>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>
>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs
>> shower room) have no windows.
>>
>>
>>
>> Stephen.
>
>
> Is this a private residence, or, say, an HMO or hotel?
>
>

private residence....

On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling

That makes no sense at all and will greatly increase your 24/7 energy
consumption for what is after all a very rare event of sudden power cut.

I have two emergency lights in my property one in the living room and
one in the kitchen - a location where a power fail could result in being
plunged into darkness whilst holding something hot out of the oven.

A couple of other rooms have torches modified so that you can find them
in the pitch dark and a pair of the wonderful but totally unappreciated
3M dayglo torches which absorb sunlight and slowly re-emit it during the
night. You can buy tape with the same stuff (strontium aluminate) in on
eBay - glow time is ~8 hours after a day in sunshine. eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324101515673
(no idea if that brand is any good picked as a random example)

Some emergency lights can be plugged in and will come on when the mains
drops or can be manually switched off to save power until it is needed.
No point in running emergency lights during daylight hours!

Definitely go for LED ones now!

> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.

I can see no point at all in installing emergency lighting in *any* of
those! YMMV

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In article <tklsda$10ld$1@gioia.aioe.org>,
Martin Brown <'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk> wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> > I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> > Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
> >
> > I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> > present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
> >
> > Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling

> That makes no sense at all and will greatly increase your 24/7 energy
> consumption for what is after all a very rare event of sudden power cut.

I don't see "greatly increase your 24/7 energy consumption" the only
consumtion would be keeping a couple of NiCad Cells trickle charged.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling

Depending on the type of lighting already installed, you may be able to
use a conversion kit to power the existing lamp in a "non maintained"[1]
way. These basically consist of a LED or Fluorescent driver combined
with an inverter and a charger, plus a Li-Ion battery.

[1] Non maintained means they come on when the power fails, but you
can't turn them on manually to use as regular lighting.

The advantage of that route is a more aesthetically pleasing install
with no extra lamps.

However you can also get very small LED downlights that mount flush in a
ceiling and are quite unobtrusive.

> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?

Powered from the light fitting makes more sense - it will then come on
when the power to the light fails.

For example see:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTEM40.html

> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.

Not really.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 11/11/2022 17:04, charles wrote:
> In article <tklsda$10ld$1@gioia.aioe.org>,
> Martin Brown <'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk> wrote:
>> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>
>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
>>> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>
>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
>> That makes no sense at all and will greatly increase your 24/7 energy
>> consumption for what is after all a very rare event of sudden power cut.

It will roughly double your base load if you do every room...
>
> I don't see "greatly increase your 24/7 energy consumption" the only
> consumtion would be keeping a couple of NiCad Cells trickle charged.

At least for the classical ones you have a transformer dissipating a few
watts for each unit and warm to the touch. When mains is on they trickle
charge the cells and when mains goes off the transformer becomes part of
an inverter generating a voltage to drive a fluorescent tube.

I don't know how well behaved the latest LED units are. They are also
much more likely to be using SLA's. NiCads went out with the ark.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 11/11/2022 15:53, SH wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 14:37, GB wrote:
>> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>
>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>
>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>>
>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room
>>> or the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>
>>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>>
>>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs
>>> shower room) have no windows.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Stephen.
>>
>>
>> Is this a private residence, or, say, an HMO or hotel?
>>
>>
>
> private residence....
>
>

16 rooms, so I can understand why you need so many interlinked
detectors. There could be a fire in say the west wing, with you in the
east wing sleeping right through it until the fire burnt itself out. It
would be embarrassing explaining to the insurers why you hadn't called
the fire brigade. :)

On 11/11/2022 16:14, Martin Brown wrote:

> I have two emergency lights in my property one in the living room and
> one in the kitchen - a location where a power fail could result in being
> plunged into darkness whilst holding something hot out of the oven.

I have two, one in the downstairs hallway and the other in the upstairs
hallway. All other rooms lead off the hall and will get sufficient light
when the doors to the rooms are open. My reasoning for position is that
they will also light up the stairs. My LED versions have a green
charging light which is bright enough to dimly illuminate the upstairs
landing on the route to the toilet at night

> Some emergency lights can be plugged in and will come on when the mains
> drops or can be manually switched off to save power until it is needed.
> No point in running emergency lights during daylight hours!
>

On a non-maintained light the energy consumption will only be for the
trickle charge of the battery and to illuminate the charging indicator.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 11/11/2022 17:56, GB wrote:

>>
>
> 16 rooms, so I can understand why you need so many interlinked
> detectors. There could be a fire in say the west wing, with you in the
> east wing sleeping right through it until the fire burnt itself out. It
> would be embarrassing explaining to the insurers why you hadn't called
> the fire brigade. :)
>
>
>
>
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1992_Windsor_Castle_fire

rings a bell:-)

On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>
> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.
>
>
>

Emergency lighting should be on the local lighting circuit unless they
are on 24/7 on their own circuit.

On 11/11/2022 17:50, John Rumm wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>
>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>
>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> Depending on the type of lighting already installed, you may be able to
> use a conversion kit to power the existing lamp in a "non maintained"[1]
> way. These basically consist of a LED or Fluorescent driver combined
> with an inverter and a charger, plus a Li-Ion battery.
>
> [1] Non maintained means they come on when the power fails, but you
> can't turn them on manually to use as regular lighting.
>
> The advantage of that route is a more aesthetically pleasing install
> with no extra lamps.
>
> However you can also get very small LED downlights that mount flush in a
> ceiling and are quite unobtrusive.
>
>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>
>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>
> Powered from the light fitting makes more sense - it will then come on
> when the power to the light fails.
>
> For example see:
>
> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTEM40.html
>

Thats an interesting solution. I assume that:

(a) I can pass the battery and module through the existing cable hole in
the plasterboard (underneath rose)

(b) is the on - off switch still operative during a powercut? that would
extend power cut time cover so that the light does not simply stay on
until the Li ion battery discharges completely?

(c) I have fibreglass insulation in the ceiling voids. Is that going to
be an issue with the module and battery?

On 11/11/2022 18:56, ARW wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>
>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>
>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>
>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>
>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>
>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs
>> shower room) have no windows.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Emergency lighting should be on the local lighting circuit unless they
> are on 24/7 on their own circuit.
>
>

and do they need a means of electrical isolation between the emergency
light and light fitting or is simply opening the RCBo enough to test the
emergency lights?

On 11/11/2022 19:40, SH wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 17:50, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>
>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>
>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>
>> Depending on the type of lighting already installed, you may be able
>> to use a conversion kit to power the existing lamp in a "non
>> maintained"[1] way. These basically consist of a LED or Fluorescent
>> driver combined with an inverter and a charger, plus a Li-Ion battery.
>>
>> [1] Non maintained means they come on when the power fails, but you
>> can't turn them on manually to use as regular lighting.
>>
>> The advantage of that route is a more aesthetically pleasing install
>> with no extra lamps.
>>
>> However you can also get very small LED downlights that mount flush in
>> a ceiling and are quite unobtrusive.
>>
>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room
>>> or the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>
>>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>
>> Powered from the light fitting makes more sense - it will then come on
>> when the power to the light fails.
>>
>> For example see:
>>
>> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTEM40.html
>>
>
> Thats an interesting solution. I assume that:
>
> (a) I can pass the battery and module through the existing cable hole in
> the plasterboard (underneath rose)

Looks like it.

> (b) is the on - off switch still operative during a powercut? that would
> extend power cut time cover so that the light does not simply stay on
> until the Li ion battery discharges completely?

The wiring diagram shows that the switched live is connected to the
input of the unit and not in the output from the unit. So it might be
the case that it only runs the inverter when the power fails AND the
switch is on. However it does not actually say that.

> (c) I have fibreglass insulation in the ceiling voids. Is that going to
> be an issue with the module and battery?

They suggest it should be fixed to a surface, and that surface must not
be combustible below 200 deg C.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On Fri, 11 Nov 2022 14:27:07 +0000, SH wrote:

> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?

I have a single one, halfway down the stairs. It lights hall and landing,
and also a totch repository!

It's wired into the detector circuit. If I see the light on and there
isn't a power cut, I know that the detector circuit has tripped and needs
attention.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Fri, 11 Nov 2022 18:28:52 +0000, alan_m wrote:

> I have two, one in the downstairs hallway and the other in the upstairs
> hallway. All other rooms lead off the hall and will get sufficient light
> when the doors to the rooms are open. My reasoning for position is that
> they will also light up the stairs. My LED versions have a green
> charging light which is bright enough to dimly illuminate the upstairs
> landing on the route to the toilet at night

I have a green neon surround on the landing light switch. It is
surprisingly bright.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Friday, 11 November 2022 at 14:27:13 UTC, SH wrote:
> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>
> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>
> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>
> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>
> Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?
>
> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
> room) have no windows.
>
>
>
> Stephen.
I know my way around our house in the dark. There's a torch kept near the consumer unit. While I don't disagree that emergency lights are handy you do sound a bit obsessive.

On 11/11/2022 19:43, SH wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 18:56, ARW wrote:
>> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>
>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>
>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>>
>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room
>>> or the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>
>>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>>
>>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs
>>> shower room) have no windows.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Emergency lighting should be on the local lighting circuit unless they
>> are on 24/7 on their own circuit.
>>
>>
>
> and do they need a means of electrical isolation between the emergency
> light and light fitting or is simply opening the RCBo enough to test the
> emergency lights?

You can get self testing or infra red controlled emergency lights.

You never turn the whole lighting circuit off to test the emergency lights.

On 12/11/2022 06:30, John J wrote:
> On Friday, 11 November 2022 at 14:27:13 UTC, SH wrote:
>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>
>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
>> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>
>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>
>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>
>> Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?
>>
>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
>> room) have no windows.
>>
>>
>>
>> Stephen.
> I know my way around our house in the dark. There's a torch kept near the consumer unit. While I don't disagree that emergency lights are handy you do sound a bit obsessive.

Alternatively, well prepared for the power cuts predicted for this winter.

--
Colin Bignell

On 11/11/2022 21:45, John Rumm wrote:
> On 11/11/2022 19:40, SH wrote:
>> On 11/11/2022 17:50, John Rumm wrote:
>>> On 11/11/2022 14:27, SH wrote:
>>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit,
>>>> a Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A
>>>> RCBOs.
>>>>
>>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that
>>>> is present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>>
>>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>>
>>> Depending on the type of lighting already installed, you may be able
>>> to use a conversion kit to power the existing lamp in a "non
>>> maintained"[1] way. These basically consist of a LED or Fluorescent
>>> driver combined with an inverter and a charger, plus a Li-Ion battery.
>>>
>>> [1] Non maintained means they come on when the power fails, but you
>>> can't turn them on manually to use as regular lighting.
>>>
>>> The advantage of that route is a more aesthetically pleasing install
>>> with no extra lamps.
>>>
>>> However you can also get very small LED downlights that mount flush
>>> in a ceiling and are quite unobtrusive.
>>>
>>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room
>>>> or the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>>
>>>> Now my question for discussion:   WHich is more sensible and why?
>>>
>>> Powered from the light fitting makes more sense - it will then come
>>> on when the power to the light fails.
>>>
>>> For example see:
>>>
>>> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTEM40.html
>>>
>>
>> Thats an interesting solution. I assume that:
>>
>> (a) I can pass the battery and module through the existing cable hole
>> in the plasterboard (underneath rose)
>
> Looks like it.

Hmmmmm.

Some of my rooms have multiple lights so finding the JB with the power
in and switch cable is going to take a little while, particularly in teh
kitchen with 10 GU10 LEDs, plus thats a total load of 10 x 4w which is
too much for this....

>> (b) is the on - off switch still operative during a powercut? that
>> would extend power cut time cover so that the light does not simply
>> stay on until the Li ion battery discharges completely?
>
> The wiring diagram shows that the switched live is connected to the
> input of the unit and not in the output from the unit. So it might be
> the case that it only runs the inverter when the power fails AND the
> switch is on. However it does not actually say that.

Sounds like an enquiry is due to the manufacturer/supplier

>> (c) I have fibreglass insulation in the ceiling voids. Is that going
>> to be an issue with the module and battery?
>
> They suggest it should be fixed to a surface, and that surface must not
> be combustible below 200 deg C.

Whats the combustion point of plasterboard? 451 fahrenheit? :-)

and for rockwool fibreglass being much higher as its literally made of
glass?

That reminds me, the instructions say Resistive LED must NOT be used,
only IC driver LED.

How can I tell from looking at the LED bulbs as to whether its a
resistive LED or an IC driver LED?
>

On 12/11/2022 08:21, Colin Bignell wrote:
> On 12/11/2022 06:30, John J wrote:
>> On Friday, 11 November 2022 at 14:27:13 UTC, SH wrote:
>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>
>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
>>> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>
>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>>
>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>
>>> Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?
>>>
>>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs shower
>>> room) have no windows.
>>>
>>> Stephen.
>> I know my way around our house in the dark. There's a torch kept near
>> the consumer unit. While I don't disagree that emergency lights are
>> handy you do sound a bit obsessive.

Even if you don't know your way around (and very few people that haven't
been darkroom trained can move safely in the pitch dark) the thing to do
is stay still for at least 2 minutes and preferably 5 minutes. By that
time you eyes will have dark adapted and you will be able to see chinks
of light around the curtains and if you are lucky some outlines.

The night sky is comparatively bright even during a power cut unless you
are in the most pristine locations. It helps a lot to have one or two
easily findable LED torches about. A 1M resistor across the on/off
switch of the ones that take 3 cells will give enough glow to find it by
without adversely affecting battery life.

> Alternatively, well prepared for the power cuts predicted for this winter.

Standard emergency lights only last long enough to allow an orderly
evacuation of a public building so 30 mins to an hour at most.

That isn't going to cut it during a 3-4 hour evening power cut.
Scheduled power cuts that you can plan for don't require emergency lighting.

The whole idea of doing it in every room is *barking MAD*.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 12/11/2022 09:16, Martin Brown wrote:
>
> The whole idea of doing it in every room is *barking MAD*.
>

Do you know all the relevant facts of the OP's premises? If not
speaking with such absolute conviction seems to me....

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 12/11/2022 09:16, Martin Brown wrote:
> On 12/11/2022 08:21, Colin Bignell wrote:
>> On 12/11/2022 06:30, John J wrote:
>>> On Friday, 11 November 2022 at 14:27:13 UTC, SH wrote:
>>>> I have a downstairs lighting circuit, a 1st floor lighting circuit, a
>>>> Garage lighting circuit and a Loft lighting circuit on 4 off 6A RCBOs.
>>>>
>>>> I also have a Smoke, Heat and CO detectors circuit on a 6A RCBO that is
>>>> present in EVERY room (16 interlinked detectors.)
>>>>
>>>> Now I want to fit an emergency light to every room ceiling
>>>>
>>>> So thus I can wire either into the exisiting detector for that room or
>>>> the ceiling light fitting in the room.
>>>>
>>>> Now my question for discussion: WHich is more sensible and why?
>>>>
>>>> If it makes any difference some rooms (garage / loft / downstairs
>>>> shower
>>>> room) have no windows.
>>>>
>>>> Stephen.
>>> I know my way around our house in the dark. There's a torch kept near
>>> the consumer unit. While I don't disagree that emergency lights are
>>> handy you do sound a bit obsessive.
>
> Even if you don't know your way around (and very few people that haven't
> been darkroom trained can move safely in the pitch dark) the thing to do
> is stay still for at least 2 minutes and preferably 5 minutes. By that
> time you eyes will have dark adapted and you will be able to see chinks
> of light around the curtains and if you are lucky some outlines.
>
> The night sky is comparatively bright even during a power cut unless you
> are in the most pristine locations.

or in one of the OP's rooms without any windows.

> It helps a lot to have one or two
> easily findable LED torches about. A 1M resistor across the on/off
> switch of the ones that take 3 cells will give enough glow to find it by
> without adversely affecting battery life.
>
>> Alternatively, well prepared for the power cuts predicted for this
>> winter.
>
> Standard emergency lights only last long enough to allow an orderly
> evacuation of a public building so 30 mins to an hour at most.

Three hours seems to be standard and mine do that much on test. They
might run longer, as they are still bright after three hours, but I've
not tested longer than that.

> That isn't going to cut it during a 3-4 hour evening power cut.
> Scheduled power cuts that you can plan for don't require emergency
> lighting.
>
> The whole idea of doing it in every room is *barking MAD*.

For you, perhaps, but we don't know why the OP wants to do it that way.
He may have a particular need to be able to have that much light.

--
Colin Bignell